Dad-1

I've prepared a couple of decals, 'Bridport Gas' in red on a yellow oval outlined in black. Factious of course, except that there was a Bridport Gas & Coke company. Geoff T.

Just got dates of 1959 - 1961 at Chorleywood, then moved to a new address. So this kit was produced as near to 60 years ago as can be reasonably calculated. Information from the Brighton Toy Museum. Geoff T.

Thanks for the extra info snitchthebudgie. Proves it's not a New kit !! Pinched a coupling with NEM pocket from another wagon and fitted on. It runs well as expected. I decided to finish the body painting with some dark grey. Apart from hanging door stops it's very good. now needing those decals. Obviously the chassis needs painting black and the whole thing weathering. I was wondering what might make a reasonable coke load. All my various coal substitutes are far too black. I'm thinking perhaps woodland scenics medium cinders would do, only I don't have any for a final appraisal. Now I have more info on the Open 'C' I'll probably get back to that. Making up 'V' hangers and such that's missing. Geoff T

Thanks for the reply Ravenser, It's quite entertaining trying to unearth as much of the historic kit information as possible. Still much to do, but here it is with the only coupling I have being harmonized with my existing stock, which out of interest is my only other coke wagon. As expected it runs well at the end of a train. Until I can find another coupling it can't be heavily loaded with a string of wagons behind. Not weighed it either, but I really don't think it needs, or would benefit from any As a 5 planker I expected it to be lower than the more usual 7 & 8 plank coke wagons, however the fact it has 3 raves rather than 2 brings it very close as can be seen in the picture. The Thomas W Ward wagon is my only other coke wagon and is a Mainline model that's had the original coupling mountings sawn off and replaced with Peco PA34 mountings fitted with Bachmann couplers. The original wheel sets have been replaced with Dapol, whereas the Ratio kit wheels are Hornby, note the deeper flanges always handy should you end up with a less than flat chassis. This wagon is flat, no diagonal rock at all. Shortcomings, not really that bad, no side door buffer strips as you find on say, the Dapol 16 ton mineral, but then there are none on the Mainline wagon either. Back to some painting and perhaps dreaming up my P.O. markings, I wonder 'Bridport Gas' ?? Geoff T

My Blog tends to chart my workbench activity. With more than a few wagon builds as I needlessly add even more to the overall collection. I've decided to try and clear some inherited kits which while very good at their time of issue are now beginning to fall short of later models. However first I thought I'd add a picture of the Cambrian Dogfish in it's current decaled but not weathered state. Right, next I started was a very old Ratio kit, one of a few that have disappeared from the Ratio range. The Ratio GWR Open 'C', LWB timber/pipe wagon - kit number I don't know, not bothered to search for that ! The kit has the modern Ratio problem of 'W' irons being rather too far apart for modern wheel sets. You need to add plasticard, or any other material spacers between the ledge of Top Hat bearings and the axle hole. Here you see before & after. Having got this far I realised I had much missing, the 'V' hangers in particular, although mouldings were there for DC III brakes there were no levers. Add to having no instruction I asked and will be getting instructions in the near future to back into a box ! O.K Ratio kit number 1501 from the 'New' 1500 series. My packet had the original wrapping from Ratio at Chorleywood on it there was a pre-decimal postage stamp. As Decimal currency was introduced in 1971 this kit must be OVER 50 years old !! I started without any searching and when built I thought I'd look to see if there was any information On-Line for a 5 plank Coke Wagon ? Nothing !! As coke was light the problem was volume not weight so all the information I could fine referred to 7 & 8 plank wagons - Why would you uses only a 5 planker ? Markings will have to be fictitious, my thoughts are of a small towns gas works P.O. wagon. Any suggestions on this would be welcomed - but not scrap it !! My problem now is getting Bachmann narrow couplings, where I need the NEM pockets for my Peco PA34 mountings. I have good rolling chassis, but to test will need to rob couplings from existing stock. Geoff T.

O.K muddys-blue,s I'd certainly be listening to The Eagles 'Hotel California' whatever I'm working on. Which has for a while been back on '00' where I'm finishing the layout I'm doing for the club. Having got the '0' running I've left alone. Some delay while I awaited a club member bringing down some crushed slate he acquired for ballasting his outdoor '00' workings. My idea is to mix something like 50/50 crushed slate with Woodland Scenics medium mixed grey ballast. Now as perhaps with others I've heard that a PVA/water glue can cause a reaction resulting in green ballast, noted when used with granite. My first attempt seems O.K, the PVA/water mix bringing out the darkness of the slate. I'm slightly concerned that it seems to be taking longer to dry, whether that's because of simply more ballast is being lain, or a reaction with the slate ? Certainly not as quick to dry out as when I've been working on '00'. Then I've always kept to 100% Woodland ballasts. It's being done in my usual fashion of 'stitching' along in short sections as a way of limiting the amount of water laying on the boards. They are well varnished so perhaps that's being overly cautious, but not a bad idea. IF I get the chance I might be able to finish this board tonight. I'm also getting nearer starting that Parkside 12 ton fruit van, having just finished building a Cambrian '00' Dogfish, although that needs decaling. Geoff T.

I think The Johnster and myself have settled on the same standard, for the logical reason. Couplers are a nightmare, the appearance of a standard NEM snap in hook is totally imaginary. I've recently been sorting through an inheritance of 'stuff' going back to the early 1950's and the variations amazed me I want secure draw, secure reversing of up to 40 wagons at a time and easy uncoupling anywhere on my layouts. If anyone is interested my Bachmann BRASS hooks are given a sliver of magnetic steel superglued along the top of my hooks. This enables me to uncouple easily, much easier than any hook, or small spade on the end of a hook. My slivers of metal amount to 1/4 of a No.56 paper staple, I get 4 out of each staple, the two legs with 2 made from the bridge piece. These slivers lifted by a 3 mm Dia by 3 mm thick neo magnet mounted in a 'shunters pole' has enough pull to lift couplings but NOT lift even the lightest of wagons. What you need to remember is to ease the train so the hooks return does not restrict the lift. Although done in a rather hurried manner I have a 7 minute video on youtube the address of which I will try and add later. Geoff T

You may have missed the point adb. Because some of us more exacting types have standardized on the Bachmann product. Simply because they tend to be of a more consistent quality. I saw couplings and their base attachments off some Lima, Mainline, Wrenn, Hornby and Dapol wagons to set to the highest standard basic tension lock available in the market place. That is in praise of the Bachmann product - But oh how we need some now. Even if I had the money I wouldn't go Kadee, or any other 'specialist' couplings I know what works for me and my running Geoff T.

As an addicted kit builder I've not been able to buy any Bachmann short (Preferable), or long narrow tension lock couplers since the end of last year. I use loads of them as one may expect from someone with 500+ wagons. My latest kit builds have had their couplers removed from other wagon in my collection. I need to test all new builds for running qualities. Again the Bachmann coupler is my base standard, as previously mentioned I also have more Bachmann wagons than any other make as in fact is the majority of my traction. I do have a few spare hooks due to some wagons being equipped with Kadees for use on specific layouts, but rely on the NEM pockets that are part of the Bachmann package. Are they made by an in-house Kadar company ? If not I wonder if someone can bring in from China themselves. Geoff T.

Hi westernviscount, Cambrian kits can be difficult, nearly every one throws up quirky requirement. All except the Sleeper Wagon which was easy. Anyway the Dogfish is now all together, less couplings as I've run out of my Bachmann standard. I'll probably pinch the NEM pockets and couplings off another wagon, pending Bachmann ever returning them to the market place !! The chassis is still flat, no diagonal rock so should be a reliable runner particularly as it's fitted with Hornby wheel sets and their deeper flanges. At 18.5 grams it's a bit on the light side, but being an engineers wagon it wouldn't be running in a long freight Photographed alongside one of my Catfish ballast wagons I used as a reference due to the basic chassis being the same. Geoff T.

Not really a comment, but an extension of the Dogfish build. I didn't get much done last evening, just adding the buffers and then fixing the hopper and chute in place. The hopper didn't seem to fit too well and I spent some time with many dry fit tests after trimming some of the hopper reinforcing ribs. Even then with the supporting framework in line with the chassis it wasn't sitting centrally in the chassis. It's also essential that no stress is brought into the build at this juncture as it would then distort your square running chassis !! Partially my fault I found that the chute was slightly distorted, again this has to be attached without adding any twist pressures to the chassis. After the time spend getting what I wanted I stopped for the evening. Today I rolled the wire provided to remove a bend where it was attached to the packaging. Trusting (partially) measurements for control wheel shafts I cut the three lengths, adding between 0.5 & 1.0 mm as you can always trim a little off, but not stick any more on !! While working the wire I decided to cut and bend the safety rails as required for crew safety. I noticed that footplate the holes were not in the same place as my Catfish builds, yet used the same chassis ? In my opinion the access gap using the Dogfish mounting was far too narrow. I decided to drill replacements using my Catfish model as a guide. Now bent as required to match. Strange as the Catfish chassis is the same ? yet certainly had the mounting hole the other side of a mounting plate moulded on the original chassis. Why do I think it should be the same chassis ? There are unequal end supports required for the Dogfish, with the catfish soulbars you get the same with instructions to cut the taller end down to match the other end. I now have to undertake a drag of a fix. The brake alignment on the kits is suitable for P4. If you fix your brake hangers to the moulded on spigots they will be waving in the wind between the wheel and W irons. I trimmed the spigots off before starting the build and now will add an extension to each brake hanger to move the brakes to be in line with the tyres An early example before a little tidy up from when I was making the 'Shark' brake van. On that I didn't cut the spigots off completely I'm trying a slightly different approach this time. Not a long way to go, but I have some baking to do - nice fresh cake, what's not to like about that !!!! Geoff T.

It's not my fault, blame John of Cambridge Custom Transfers. As he's pointed out the decals I require are all on one of his giant decal sheets I've placed an order. What do I do in the meantime ? Make another wagon that has the markings included on said decal sheet !! As a result I started last evening without the camera by my side and made up a rolling chassis for the Cambrian Dogfish ballast wagon. I have said before that Cambrian have a few quirks and often need some experience to get 'right'. One of those problems to look out for is finding what is flash and needs trimming away, and what is needed as you key the parts together. Here is one of those places of doubt. Do you trim off the thin edge to the chassis cross members ? NO you do not, and leaving the one where it's attached to the runner needs care. The footplate sections have this ridge all around, the parts have this below the top edge of the solebars. Easy where there is a moulded stop, but there is no 'stop' for these to sit on. The packet and bits this morning I sat wit the rolling chassis in my hand, very squishy and deliberately twisted it until I had the axles lining up exactly. Ahh and I'd put the wheels in holding in with a rather loose elastic band around all 4 axle boxes. The rolling chassis is now flat no diagonal rock at all. More tonight, all being well. Geoff T.

That must be an old fashioned saying, but you get the idea. You buy something, but before you start you're distracted by some other project and layers of dust settle. Never quite forgotten and to be done at some time ! Two postings ago in my blog there are some pictures of a pure shunting layout I've been making for the club. To help complete a nearly believable scene the platforms need some sort of traffic, just as I did with my mate Derek when we made our previous shunting layout. He made some "4GROUND" packing cases which I thought were very good, a purchase was made and since 2016 2 packets have been in the loft, now made up for the new layout. Sorry about the cat, I didn't want to spend a tenner, or more for a cat to go on the clubs layout. I can be tight spending club money and a set of 8 to 10 cats and dogs wasn't justified. Our dear little moggie given by a club member is to say the least indistinct, but I suppose it doesn't take much imagination to recognise it as a cat. The edge of a 20p piece gives an idea of the scale. I now have 24 packing cases !! I can give the club a few to sit on our platform. Geoff T.

Hi John, Obviously you understand the 'white decals on white paper' problem !! Posting off tomorrow. Geoff T

Thanks for that John, I will admit I've not studied the contents of your sheets, partially on the cost of a sheet when compared to a single model. However as I don't think I'll be stopping my wagon building in the near future It's probably a worthwhile investment. Using just 3, or 4 times makes it a sound investment, so long as I can locate what I want on the big sheet !! My eyes are not what they once were and finding Fox Tare Weights, white decals, on white backing paper is almost impossible. Geoff T.

Hi Mikkel, Well I am looking at cutting some sleepers off old Hornby Dublo two rail track. Their sleepers don't seem to have holes under the chairs as so much modern track has. Only time will tell if it's practical. One thing I can't find is where the ledgend "Return to Hayes" would be fixed. It can't be on the side as two chain boxes down each solebar doesn't leave any space. Probably on the insides of the end plates. Then of course where can you find such a decal !! "Return to" is not a problem and can be obtained from the HMRS sheet, It may be a plan to just have a dirty smudge at the end ? Anyway thanks for the comment Mikkel ! Geoff T.

For the last few months I've been busy on layouts. Both for the club and while intending to get some club input the Corona Virus shut down has left the option of do nothing until the club rooms open again, or do it myself. All interesting and keeping me busy, but apart from the '0' brake van I've not touched a wagon. Couldn't go much further without making something with wheels !! What's in stock - too many, but the Cambrian GWR/BR 18 Ton Sleeper Wagon caught my eye. Through Autumn I'd been making engineers stock and this was intended as part of the set. Cambrian kits can be brutes to make and I would usually advise against any beginner trying one. This one has been so easy it's fallen together in a few days. Almost no wrinkles of confusing instructions with parts that once cleaned up fit well. As with all Cambrian kits they come without wheel sets, bearings, hooks, or decals. All these things cost money, but the kit was cheap enough at £7.20 I tend not to use the recommended Gibson wheels often using Hornby sets in my wagon builds as their flanges are somewhat deeper giving running security should you end up with a less than perfectly flat chassis. There is a danger as some Cambrian kits have so little clearance and these would foul however no problems with this build as A). I had no spoked Hornby wheel sets. B). My only spare spoked wheel set was Dapol, and these do have smaller flanges. Very simple and fell together in a few hours. White Metal hooks from the 'spares' box, I nip off half the fixing stub, otherwise it could foul my method of fixing couplings. This was on the edge for fixing couplings due to a tie bar between the solebars. Already well glued in before I thought about couplings. A moment of panic as I couldn't find any Bachmann short narrow tension-lock couplings. These have been in short supply since last Autumn and this build has taken my last 2 !! With my small platform stuck in it was almost impossible to get a NEM pocket in between it and the tie bar. I trimmed about 0.5 mm off the tie bar and used a file to create a small groove in the NEM pocket. Even then I couldn't pull the coupling down the last fraction of a mm to get 100% matching height to my standard of basic Bachmann RTR height. Once in there is no way you can change either the wheel sets, or remove the NEM pockets. If you want obviously you could snap in Kadees, but this is not destined for a Kadee layout. The made up model less stanchions weighed in at 8.6 grams, VERY light, but was run in a train with 11 wagons behind it over 3 set track points and some 1st radius curves showing no signs of distress or de-railing. The kit has no brake hangars meaning the wheel voids are quite empty. I used this space to add some lead sheet, salvaged from Jordan F1 wheel balance weights, this brought it up to nigh on 24 grams and I'm certain give additional running security. Now painted black for early BR it'll have to await some decals and weathering before any more photographs. Conclusion an easy model to make of an unusual wagon. Can sit with my Mermaids, Catfish, Dogfish and Shark !! Dad-1

I'm also working in the garage on a '00' layout, however this '0' this has to be done outdoors so any hint of bad weather, or even too high a wind and nothing gets done. This last week I've finished laying the tracks and added two frog juicers. Put a decoder in the Sentinel and one a few test runs. I can only think the green effect on the Sentinel is reflected light off the very green garden ? Next ballasting and being so narrow to make fencing which will use nails as the posts. No breaking that. Geoff T

Thanks Barry. On some 'Profile' just tells you your available personal details. Used it this time, I'll remember that now !! Geoff T.

I've just spent 10 minutes trying to find my Blog, there used to be a link found by ones name icon, but I can't find it now. Perhaps they're old hat and destined to vanish ? Thought I'd add what I've been doing since lock-down, O.K it started before that. With my mate Derek we made an inglenook shunting puzzle layout, always popular with club members and went out a few times without myself, or Derek present. It was damaged and I then put my foot down at the end of last year saying it would never go out again without me being there. There was then pressure for us to make a specific Club layout. It fell to me as the requirements are very exacting and it was supposed to be a club project. Just before lock-down I was presented with the 48" x 16" layout board. I laid the track, tested, and sorted out the problem resulting from using Frog Juicers. In the very limited track the frog juicers were creating spikes that disturbed the locomotive decoders. I had to make up a small circuit to dampen out the spikes. Wasn't expecting that little problem !! After 5 months it's almost finished, scenics as well, just tidying up now, although the list of minor jobs is longer than I'd expected before I began putting it on paper !! Here we have a few pictures :- The Headshunt end. The crossing The sorting end A rescued building from a 'late' club member, salvaged from a dismantled layout. I wish I could do better signs, but 4 point type face is my printers limit and I can't do white on a black background that's readable. Just before 12.00, waiting for the gates. It's the driving that counts !! Geoff T.

I can't be the only one who will race through a build until all the painting HAS to be done. This has meant the foot boards haven't been attached, you can't really until the chassis has been both painted and weathered. So tonight I took the plunge, matt varnish, 67 tank grey, dark earth and facing orange. NEVER perfect, but hidden behind those boards I think this will be O.K. Next the main body - Although as Modelu confirm despatch of my guard I may paint him and fix in place before stage II Geoff T.

More steps forward - I laid my hands on 5 lengths of Peco Bullhead, enough to finish the job. Here was today's close of play. One piece of track still to lay, then some soldering in of droppers and adding frog juicers. After that some lineside fencing, ballasting & grass. The brake van not quite there. I am just a little concerned about the frog juicers, fine for DCC runners. Should anyone want to use analogue they will need switching out, still pondering on a suitable answer to that. Geoff T.

On the 9F's I didn't even try removing the opposite end motor clamp. I didn't see the point as both locomotives were and still are beyond further use. I should write to Hornby with a moan, the reason is they are still making and selling 9F's therefore in theory replacement parts could be available. However it'll probably be a waste of time as they pass all spares responsibility on to Peters Spares. Here are the two 9F clamps :- Evening Star's first I didn't photograph the tender problem because I knew I could make a plasticard insert which initially seems like it'll be fine. However without a working locomotive I can't do the final proof testing. While it's difficult to throw stones at Hornby, they didn't use contaminated materials by choice, but with current 9F products they should make spares available. I have no reason to think they have changed the design as those earlier products were fine - Until !! Geoff T.

No Paul, I can easily convince myself !! Anyway just a little more done on the brake van. Decals have to be on and settled (24 Hrs) before I can begin weathering. Side steps just resting in place for this shot. At the moment getting the track sorted is a priority, I have obtained the few extra lengths required, soldering a few droppers today. I am enjoying making this. I also have a question for all you 7 mm modellers. Do you ballast your '0' wagons ? For 4 mm I have mixed views, ultra light wagon kits do need some additional weight to prevent being pulled off on a curve. My target range is 30 - 50 grams although some just over 20 grams but using deeper flanged wheels (Hornby) are O.K. The problem is the accumulated weight of a train made up of heavy wagons will start to de-rail lighter ones and so adding more weight is self defeating. This van is 93 grams. Geoff T.