Skinnylinny

Personally, what I do in that situation is create two sketches - one from above and one from the side. I then extrude the side view overlength (over-thickness? So that it extends beyond the furthest in and furthest out points of the lever) as one body. Next, I extrude the top view downwards through the previous body (again as a new body). I split the first body, using the second body as the splitting tool. Remove un-needed bodies, and you should have a brake lever that bends in multiple directions at once!

I shall just leave this here... https://hmrs.org.uk/-abp615--albert-usher--ec3--10t-7-plank-s-e--811--op--f3r-tare--6-2-2--spoked-wheels--ssdbk--photo-no--s-600.html

Yes, I ought to start thinking about signals... As I've mentioned before, the history of Linton Town includes the company contracting out the supply of signalling equipment to Messrs. Saxby & Farmer. As such, I'd rather like to have split-post signals, although I'd prefer to have the spectacles mounted on the same spindles as the arms (similar to the NER designs), rather than lower down the post, which was S&F's more common modus operandi at the time. I've been having trouble getting any useful drawings of similar signals, too. I suspect that I may have to "bash" mine together from a mixture of MSE parts intended for S&F and NER signals, and Ian MacCormac's parts. What I'll need on the visible part of the layout will be something like this: I'm not going to lie, I'm rather nervous about the bracket for numbers 16-19! While I'm a big fan of 3D printing in various situations, I think that metal kits will likely be rather more able to stand up to the rigours of operation. I have previously made some laser-cut signals out of MDF, card, and acetate, but I can't decide whether they look too chunky or not. Unfortunately, at the moment, the layout boards are packed up, so I don't have any brilliant photos of them, but these are what I do have!

Haha, well, Sunshine on Shandwick Place in this instance, but yes!

I too collected mine from Harburn. With the beautiful sunshine in Edinburgh yesterday, I couldn't resist a quick snapshot while waiting for a tram...

The frame now has lever numbers (Also 3d printed), and work has started on printing the block instrument. All the circuitry fits inside, although I've had to temporarily substitute momentary toggle switches while I await the push-buttons arriving. I've also set up a temporary trackplan board to make testing easier. Now to decide what type of wood veneer to use - mahogany or cherry. Or possibly walnut. All three are rather nice! I ought to start thinking about signals, I suppose...

It would, although I lack the required woodworking skills, and no longer have access to the laser cutter since moving to Glasgow-ish. GrandOrgue at the moment, as I don't have the cash to drop on a copy of GrandOrgue, and I'm sort of cautiously dipping my toe back in for as little spend as possible. The 61-key MIDI keyboard cost me £60, while the pedalboard has cost me the grand total of £1.04 on eBay and the price of a decent takeout dinner for a friend to drive it up to me! It will require a bank of microswitches, and the use of an Arduino which I already have, to MIDI-ify it.

Bells-wise, I'm leaning towards a speaker and recordings, to be honest, rather than physical bells. I love the idea of operating with them, but I daresay my neighbours would appreciate the idea of a volume control. They've enough to deal with now that I'm getting back into organ practice too (well, as best I can with a MIDI keyboard, and an old church organ pedalboard that I've managed to acquire and am planning to MIDI-ify...) but at least that I can do on headphones!

So i was sitting playing with the lever frame, and got to thinking. It's all very well having a frame, but what use is it if the next box down the line can't communicate to send me trains? Now, I could just rely on talking to the fiddle yard operator, but where's the fun in that? So, I've been playing about a bit more in CAD. I've not yet decided how to drive the arms, but I'm leaning towards servos unless I can find a way to hook this up to some solenoids in such a way that I can drive it on 5V or so. It's to a larger scale than the levers in order to be visible to a 1:1 operator, and I've yet to decide how to sort out a pegging handle. The outer finish, however, I've decided on. I have some rather nice self-adhesive veneer, which should look rather good over a 3D printed case, perhaps with some suitable decorative wooden mouldings.

It lives! Well, all the levers, microswitches and locking are printed, assembled and working. Unfortunately, the 2mm threaded rod I ordered for attaching the microswitches is... subpar... The M2 nuts just slide along it rather than "biting" the thread! I may have to look for another source. There are still a couple of minor bits that need tidying (like painting the handles on some of the levers) or that may get changed - the strengtheners to the catch rod guides, for example. There's also a very slight occasional issue with the tappets binding slightly between the quadrants - this may settle down as bits bed in, or I may have to adjust the tappets slightly and reprint, but all in all I'm very very pleased with how the project has turned out! In the meantime, I've been working on something more modern - the ScotRail class 334 for the club's forthcoming Haymarket layout. Awaiting varnishing before I grubby up the roof and add the cant rail stripe, then do the glazing.

Just wanted to say thank you to @m0rris - I bought a class 334 a few months back, and have finally got to the point of painting. I'm delighted with the model, and very impressed - it's well detailed, weighty and the resin used is nicely flexible, rather than brittle. Just enough to get the wheels into the bogies (although I did find them a little snug, but easy enough to ream - always better that way than too loose!). I'm really enjoying this build. Next thing on the to-do list is figuring out where to get a suitable pantograph, and sorting couplings between the cars.

Once everything is in place and tested, I intend to have a clear piece of acrylic over the top.

Getting there... 4 more quadrants, 6 more levers and one more locking bar... and hopefully that should be all the bits I need to assemble the whole thing!

Hi Michael, So the pivots on the catch handles are M2 bolts, which pass through one side of the catch handle, and self-tap into the other side of the catch handle. The catch rods do have springs attached to the bottom where they pass through the quadrant. The springs hook over the hooked "leg" to the left of the lever in the picture above. They're fairly softly sprung, but enough that the catch falls reliably. I am not expecting many guest operators, and the long-term plan is to have a mimic panel as an alternative method of control, that can be plugged into the same electrical connector that will attach the levers to the layout - the levers are mainly for my own enjoyment. That said, there's a *little* flex in the catch rods, but only enough to allow maybe 1mm of movement at the very tip of the lever handle.

Well, the printer's been on the blink for a little while now - it suddenly started producing plastic spaghetti instead of lever frame parts. About 8 hours of tinkering later (spread over about a week!) I've managed to get it working, and I now have an idea of what to look for if it fails again. My first successful print was the locking bars, and there are now the first ten tappets on the print bed. I've also been playing around with how to mount microswitches, and I think I've got a nice neat system which should do the trick, having stolen the basic concept from @Lacathedrale's suggestion a few pages back. Every third quadrant will have this tab with two holes in, to fit more threaded rods (M2 this time, rather than M3) to support microswitches. It *should* be possible, with care, to route the wires neatly downwards, although I may draw up some kind of cable trough for them. While the interlocking may be mechanical, the levers themselves will operate the microswitches and thus, indirectly, the signals and points through servos. I'm also hoping to add coloured strengtheners to the lever catch rod guides at some point, but for the foreseeable future I'll be printing lots and lots of black parts (interlocking and more quadrants!)