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    Scottish railways 1980 to present (mainly!)

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  1. Matt

    Noisy Bachmann Class 47

    The other issue it might be is if the three wheelsets in the bogie are not all sitting at same level - early class 37s were infamous of this - with centre axle slightly lower than outer axles, causing the outer wheels to "chatter" on the rail as the weight is taken through the centre wheelset and outer wheels intermittently leave/impact track. I can't recall if I've had a 47 do this but many of my 37s do and it can sound like drive noise. There is an easy mod I believe though i''ve never got around to doing mine (involves removing centre axle and deepening slot in which sits slightly). M
  2. I can vouch for these too - these are ideal for OO stock - the top 3 drawers being just deep enough whilst lower drawers are deeper than necessary. The dimensions are such that can fit Mk3 carriages into each drawer in either direction. I have inserted 9mm MDF into my drawers just to make the bottom a little more sturdy and added cardboard running rails to keep stock in position. Not a cheap (or light) option but very solid overall and nice smooth drawer runners too. I have 4 (so far....). M
  3. I've had layouts in rooms similar to what you describe: Previous layout room was 6m x 8m whilst current layout room is 3.3m x 15m. Both rooms were purpose built. I would have to say that i'm not sure which I prefer - for sure the long thin room allows a more prototypical layout to be built "on the straight" but TBH the room is a bit too long and you struggle to see the layout from one of the room to the other. The old layout room (scenic section) ran round 2 walls and had a very gentle curve between the two walls and the main scenic run ended up being not much shorter than the new setup. It had the advantage of creating more of an amphitheatre feel for viewing the trains. Overall in both cases I built around the walls in a roundy-roundy with fiddle yard on other side(s) and I have wasted less overall space with the long thin room. If I were doing it again though i'm not sure which way I would go next time. M
  4. Thanks James for your tips - I have in the past ventured into full resprays (Lima times) but since recent hi-fi models have never plucked up the courage to have a go. One of the things that does concern me about varnishes is that I have had several examples of wagons and locos I sprayed with varnish that have gone yellow over the years - no idea why and obviously don't want to happen again... as such I was actually planning to use rub-on transfers to avoid the carrier film issue but if the finish post number/nameplate removal is glossy I may have no choice but to crack open some varnish and overcome my fears... Anyway I have to have a go now as I've bought 2 identical locos that never ran anywhere near my area of the country that need identity changes! M
  5. James - love your work as always. I definitely need to tone down my extensive fleet of wagons and I think your weathering on the OTAs just shows how good the model is when the "slightly plasticky" tones are toned down. A quick question if I may. I have bought some recent release Bach locos for identity changing and noted your technique for removing sub-sector logos above. I want to remove factory printed nameplates and numbers from my purchases to change identity - does the enamel thinners work on nameplates and numbers too (I would assume so but wanted to check) and also is there any particular brand of thinners you use or will any have same effect? Just wanted to check before I make a dog's dinner of things... Matt
  6. Bachmann's 66 has a well known issue that seems to affect many but not all where the bogies sit a little too close to the chassis and catch on curves causing derailment. Of my 6, I believe 4 are impacted this way (I've not had things running for a long time due a house move - have also not remedied the issue). I'm sure somewhere within the Bachmann folder there is discussion of this issue and the remedies which if I recall correctly require inserting a spacer between bogie and chassis. Hope this helps, M
  7. Sorry I've not had time to read all the posts here so this may have been covered already... I have similar problems to what you describe... I have a very big CDU and have had no issues throwing up to 11 peco PL10s through a diode matrix even with quite long distances in the wires (20+ft). However if I have even 1 side mount motor in the mix then things start to go wrong - mostly with the side mount. I have found that doubling up on wiring to the side mount has helped but is still not 100%. My only conclusion has been that the side mount is more power hungry than the PL10s or for some reason isn't getting the power it needs... interestingly not all side mounts are affected but I think this may be that some points are tighter to throw than others. I don't have an issue with ANY PL10 thrown points anywhere on the layout. The other possibility I've not explored completely is that the side mounts come with their own weedy wires for a few inches whereas my PL10s are 24/0.2 wire direct onto the contacts - could this be making the route more difficult for the power to get to the side mounts when there are easier routes (you can probably tell i'm not an electrician...). I did start cutting some of the harnesses short and connecting 24/0.2 wire as close as possible to the motors but I can't say for sure yet whether this has helped. In days gone by I also had problems mixing Peco and Hornby motors (PL10s and Hornby's similar looking unit) so have tended to avoid this on current setup where possible. Notably the Hornby motors also come with their own weedy harness... Will be interested to hear if you find a solution as this is an unresolved issue for me at the moment although COVID might give me more time to solve it... M
  8. Or the Hornby / Roco rigid coupling type. I have 2 Scotrail push pull rakes that could not be pushed at all with Kadees used, but with Hornby / Roco rigid couplings I can now propel at full speed around my layout which includes a complex fiddle yard entrance/exit. The Hornby / Roco versions work the same and look the same but the Roco version is slightly shorter - I can't actually recall which I used suffice to say that the gangways are touching when on straight track, but they can negotiate curves no issue. If you haven't tried these couplers I can strongly recommend - has become my choice within fixed rakes of coaches and wagons as reduces "slop" in couplings whilst providing nice close coupling and is slightly less sensitive to getting height spot-on than Kadees. Still use Kadees for rest of fleet including locos though as less obtrusive. Note also these couplers are a somewhat lower cost option than Kadees too :-). M
  9. I've actually had a different experience. I've found there is too much slop in the E-Z mate couplings as supplied and when I run my rake of 19 car rake uncouples in several places randomly (the couplers ride up/down as loaded). As others have said, Bach have given options on this wagon: a) E-Z mate body mounted at correct prototypical height b) provision on the bogie for NEM couplers to install at "normal" tension lock or Kadee height As others have said, Kadees can also be slotted into the body mounted sockets albeit a different type. In the end I couldn't get reliable running with the body mounted couplers and resorted to using the bogie mounted NEM pockets with Hornby/Roco couplers which have proved way more reliable. I suspect with more time I may have gotten there with Kadees in the body mounted sockets but ran out of patience. M
  10. Call me odd (many do) but somehow the Hornby announcement makes me want to buy a Cavalex 91 more. I don't need one, I don't need one... but I want one
  11. Me too - only issue was I planned to mix them in with my Bach BAAs and i'm not so sure they won't make the BAAs look like toys... look amazing M
  12. Hi Flood, Just looking back at these excellent photos raised a quick question from me... your UKF pallet vans are presumably based on the Lima model - have the mods you made already been discussed somewhere here? You've obviously modded the solebar on some - am curious of the details as have several I want to mod. Great work BTW - not yet seen Kirkhill in its later form but did manage to catch it a few times when it was up north in its original format and always enjoyed some time by the lineside. M
  13. One of my 90s had a fault which seemed related to DCC chip - all seemed OK then the pantograph stopped working before stopping altogether. I tried another chip to no avail before returning to vendor (worked OK on DC). They found it worked OK on DCC and were about to return back to me but tried again and got the fault I had... so replaced the model and chip and all is good. I've also had a Bach 20 that worked fine on DC but then went berserk on DCC - further investigation found the motor and feed wire on one side were transposed which was an easy fix but could have caused some serious damage (the loco when fitted with a chip took off at full speed uncontrolled!). I guess sometimes mistakes are made but key thing is I've always found the retailers to be very responsive in dealing with any issues (and on occasion involving Bachmann too who've always been great). M
  14. or you can change history to one where Ravenscraig stayed open and the Scottish steel industry flourished. That is the way I remember things... :-)
  15. To add to this, my retailer and Bachmann's response to this was first class - one of my 90s was exchanged by retailer and another went back to Bachmann via retailer for repairs. This was done very quickly and at no cost to me, and when returned was packaged up quite a lot differently (wrapped in bubble wrap, outside of original box) perhaps indicating what Bachmann thinks is the underlying cause? M
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