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richbrummitt

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  1. This assumes a K factor of, I think, 0.5. Ever sheet metal shop seems to have their own ideas on this for the same materials. What matters is that this works for us. On a 180° bend I use a longer tag with a 'hourglass' shape (narrower right in the middle) that encourages the bend in the centre of the tag such that the part alignment is close to begin with. I also put them on the opposite side to a 90° bend, which Chris and you both do iirc.
  2. Less time available in this ‘lockdown’ than at any time in the past year. In addition the evenings are cold and wet so I am less inclined to get to the workshop. I had a tidy up of some items on the workbench into the unbuilt kits and bits storage units and a very little time on some other projects that have not been progressed much further. I ordered and received a few more Dingo servo mounts; sufficient for the other switches and the two signals that will appear in the scenic modelled area. I also had one of the infrequent but seemingly regular needs to actually attend work premise
  3. Now this is exciting. Two things I have learnt about worm mesh during the rebuild of a pannier tank (still not finished though it was started some time ago when you were at the beginning of the scrap tank build) is that it could be helpful to paint the inside of that fold up worm 'box' a very light colour so that the mesh is quite visible when looking into what might otherwise be darkness behind and the mesh can be adjusted a tiny amount by bending the upright between the main part of the frame and the 'box'.
  4. A search for miniature metric brass nut finds: https://prime-miniatures.co.uk/catalog/full-nuts-open/brass M1.4 nuts £4 per 10pcs. An alternative would be to create a cage or block to hold the steel nuts (available more cheaply) captive.
  5. On 6w coach underframes I tried cleminson and also an alternative arrangement to allow side movement of the centre axle. I found that neither were really required and both were more complicated than the final solution of a rigid 3 axle chassis using top hat bearings. These have wheelbases of 17’-19’. When you calculate the amount of sideways movement required by the centre axle on the usual radii used in 2FS the answer is not much and I’ve always found there is a very small amount of side-side movement of the axles in the top hat bearings. With 4 axles it could make sense to have a pair of hid
  6. I’ve been pondering this phenomenon of lines when the cross section changes significantly. My experience of automation within chitubox for support generation does not give me confidence of an update to that software as a solution but willing to be proven wrong. I’ve only printed a few wagon bodies (no tilt) thus far that are of any size and I might be able to see a bit of this change in the layers happening where the sides start above the floor. What I was thinking about was why print the floor as part of the wagon? Because we can might not be a great reason. Large flat areas could p
  7. Good to see you making some progress again Pete. The battery solution seems like a good one. I think it should last quite well powering a single LED and can always be revisited. Always one to overcomplicate things I wondered if the switch could be arranged to operate on a push button switch accessed by shoving something in the stove pipe. Probably much easier to have something under the floor - there must be loads of space in 7mm.
  8. The Dingo mounts are perfectly free before the rods are fastened to join the motion to the stretcher bars. Making a rod with fewer parts seems to have helped with one of the mounts. N/S rod drilled for 0.3mm n/s wire and soldered Filed square. I’ve managed to align this one pretty well. So one of the mounts is now operating pretty smoothly and the switch is adjusted. The other one can, I hope, be improved. To add to my last entry these are some FDM printed parts to reduce the moment on a servo horn.
  9. The graduations on our oven start “defrost , 90, ... “. Defrost could be fan only without heat in reality. It might go as low as 50 but would need an oven thermometer or pyrometer to check. They’re pretty cheap. Ovens are pretty simple devices really: they just heat until the thermostat determines ‘too hot/hot enough’ and back on when the same determines ‘too cold/cold enough’ and are not spectacularly accurate. Perhaps a heater box is next on your project list?
  10. New materials, processes etc. constantly change the playing field. I did the work on a universal CAD model for an any size / type wheel around 10 years ago but the manufacturing possibilities available then did not scale down to match the quantity we would use. At that time Metal Injection moulding looked like it would do an excellent wheel in stainless steel but the tool costs were an insurmountable barrier. 3D printing in metal was pretty new at that time and crazy expensive. Wheel centres would have been £100s each. Now this process is available at prices that allow one off sets of wheels
  11. Thanks Julia, I would love to see how you arrange the plastic stub axles into the frames. What is your concern with the larger wheels?
  12. Are these for casting or do you have a cunning plan to use them as is?
  13. I’m reasonably thin but no shorter than Nick. I fitted onto the footplate of a hall at the weekend - tank engine doors are possibly narrower? I agree with Tim and Nick himself that Nick would fit best on Beatrice.
  14. Thanks for sharing. An interesting sequence of explanation as is usual from your posts. I also bought a Pultra cross slide this year, without knowing what the graduations were. Quite unsurprisingly it has the standard divisions (not metric). If it saves you the effort and is convenient would you like to swap? I would prefer a metric one.
  15. Arranging the power has caused me some head scratching. I decided that this testing ought to have the switches operating with the microswitches changing the crossing polarity. This Christmas thing (or rather the organisational nightmare that comes in advance of it) has also taken up more of my time and progress has rather slowed. I’ve replaced the stub of wire included in the Dingo servo mounts with a piece of rod that I could drill into and then solder a short piece of 0.3mm rod to slip through the micro bore tube on the stretcher bar. This rod was larger than the stub of wire such
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