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  1. I've downloaded nanoCAD and had a brief play with it this evening. It has two things that I really wanted in my current tool that are not available when I selected. Some odd (to me) behaviour but that may be down to options I have not set. A lot still to explore but I can see me doing future work here rather than with the software I have been using. What I don't know until I try is how well it would convert into an etch. I've only had two issues with files sent to PPD in the past that have not been my fault and that is my minimum thickness has been optimistic and overlaid objects have been int
  2. That is the most tedious part of the process. Once you get to that point the interesting design work is complete. I was thinking about the deconstructing of the net / folds within a particular component when I wrote 'how to lay out'.
  3. Something for me to consider maybe. It is as much, if not more, about how to lay out as it is how to use the tool to draw it. Hammers are for proper engineering. The skill is in where to tap and how hard
  4. Onshape is a 3D package. It’s very good at what it does but I cannot recommend it to a casual user who wishes to do some etch artwork. Until recently I would have said DraftSight but they changed the business model on that and it got expensive. I would look at something like LibreCAD (free) or NanoCAD (Free and paid options). A lot of pro users are making satisfied noises about nanoCAD. I’ve not tried nanoCAD yet so we could learn together if you like? It would be a fun and useful thing to do a thread on, I think.
  5. Paul, I hate to be the one to point this out but I rather someone said something before you build more if you have not already spotted this: The brakes should be the other way around in your opening picture since the brake actuating lever lifts the swan neck and the shaft rotates anti-clockwise. This is the opposite of almost every other brake system where with the lever to the right and when driven directly a simple lever rotates the shaft clockwise (the other side often has a cam, lift link or left hand lever to ensure the correct rotation of the cross shaft to apply the brakes
  6. The new angle seems to be much better for a going away shot, else there is nowhere within the frame for the loco to be going. I'm rather fond of a 28xx too, especially one without outside steam pipes.
  7. After doing the research in types and reading a bunch of reviews I went for a desiccant dehumidifier (Meaco DD8L*) rather than a compressor type. It still works well at the sub 20C that the garage workroom is normally maintained at and the noise is little more intrusive than a desk fan. To begin with it removed a lot of moisture (several trays worth in a couple of weeks) but it has settled right down now to a kind of ‘maintenance’ level. *Usual disclaimer - Happy customer, no connection.
  8. It can be had/done: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=72605 RDG tools have a 14x1 - 12x1 converter which might allow you to use a holder designed for the later U3/4.
  9. It works just as many internet based shopping sites do: you browse for what you want and then checkout. There is good information about the various options when buying, sometimes hidden behind buttons links or ? hints. The difference with many other sites is you are buying community created content with possibly varying quality though I think it is reasonably clear from the site if a design is proven to print and whether the images are photos or the real thing of computer generated images of the file.
  10. The trackbed has been cut from 1mm mountboard and fixed with some kind of wood glue. I figured that the paper probably came from wood so it ought to stick well with wood glue. First I placed it carefully and drew around it so that I could achieve the same alignment. It was left to dry over night beneath a pile of reference books. The templot track plan was carefully prepared by removing the tape from the underside and trimming the overlap away locally in the areas where the tracks are. This allows a single uniform thickness of track plan to be stuck onto the track plan. I used a well known bra
  11. That's exactly the kind of thing I was hoping for. Chris did the etched versions. He himself stated that they were about as good as could be done with that process but they are not as bulky as they should be. I much preferred the whitemetal ones for their size but most (all?) are gone from the shop now. Unfortunately I did not purchase sufficient to cover the kits that I have to build where I depended upon the availability of such an item. As I do not have a printer the STL alone is not so useful. I will message you separately about an exchange.
  12. Does anyone have RCH/GWR axle boxes ready to print? Preferably 9” journals but anything is better than nothing. I’m in need of some because I didn’t think through the horse box chassis that I’m building. They’re too far along to go for the etched ones. It seems to be one major type the 2mmSA shop doesn’t yet have to hand for print.
  13. Did you have any issues with ballasting (and the sticking of) subsequently?
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