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Everything posted by richbrummitt

  1. For the Minks: V12 offset V hanger, central on V14/16. I haven't actually finished any Opens so unable to help on those. I found this out after I finished bending a PECO body and NGS ends into a V12 so have the same issues as you and @Enterprisingwestern have found yourselves in. Since I'd already done the painting and lettering I hid behind a parapet.
  2. Just seeing the bar raised. Lovely.
  3. It does look like you might have a slightly tight spot about when the rods are TDC on the viewed side.
  4. I rewired a controller last night and had a quick play as is. The video is low quality since filming driving and the rest all at the same time is too much to do a good job and it's 30x the upload limit even for a few minutes clip. Some more wires and I should have somewhere to test run things until I change things up on the scenic board. The fiddle yards and scenic board do need some way to locate and maintain the alignment. As I mentioned in my previous reply there is planning underway to mount it all together in some way. I think you'll appreciate the materials involved.
  5. There's a plan, well an idea. It's not very well thought out but the seed is germinating. Useful to know what you think the difference is based on the materials used. I keep remembering to search for my misplaced calipers at times that it is inconvenient to look for them. I thought that when I locate them I'll be good to measure and move on. Now I might be enabled to do so without, though I still must find them somewhen.
  6. Stewart Hine made his 28xx with eccentrics on the muffs. I had the opportunity for him to explain how he did this at a Keen House meeting. There's was an article in the magazine about it too I believe.
  7. I used an inkjet. 9 years ago it would have been an HP one I think.
  8. Shovels are one measure I have read of being used for paint mixing somewhere, though I can't recall where. Anyone who's mixed concrete this way will know that it's a really rough way to measure anything, requires adjustment as you go, and you stop adding and blending when you've got enough mix and it looks like it'll do.
  9. Ian and I both made ours by printing onto Rizla.
  10. Oops. What I meant was the roof on my model isn't white. It will be finished further and the right hand one will not stay so dark. If it's not the angle making it what then it can often be due to over-exposure of that area so that the bodies can be seen in detail, often evident in side on views. Which grey do you like?
  11. The other big difference is that N16 have the vacuum cylinder on the opposite side to all the earlier diagrams. It took me a while to spot when I was developing a chassis etch for the N gauge Lima body. Eventually I made another version in the other handing so that I could backdate the bodies I had.
  12. I've been working through the track plan on the Templot forum here. That's taken a little while but in between I have laid the other two tracks on the one fiddle yard. The other has a single track laid on it for now. Put next to the layout there will be a height mismatch. How to align and maintain that alignment between will need to be sorted out properly, but not much point until the final rail height on the scenic board is known. It would be fun to run some trains through though.
  13. On the left Eshin grey and on the right Dark reaper. The roof on this one is Corvus black, which seems about as black as grey can be without being black. The Dark reaper did not come out the colour I thought it would. and with flash The roof isn't white.
  14. I read my post back. I asked because, although I failed to mention, the colour reproduced in GWW 3rd ed. also has a tinge. I trust that the colours are based on the best information available. Some are based on model paints that are based on hard evidence, but there will still be some judgement, maybe even guesswork applied to others.
  15. There was a row of recently painted vans at Didcot last time I was there (Christmas for TTTE) and they have a noticeable blue/green tinge. I've observed this elsewhere too. Is this due to modern paint technology, or intended? The paint swatches in GWW 1st edition don't include wagon grey. They will be somewhat unreliable by now since the colours of swatches change with time and these date from the 70s. I think they are better than the ones in GWW 3rd edition where the colours are printed, though they seem to agree. The later edition does present many more colours, including wagon grey. It also says that wagon grey was one colour that was mixed on site rather than supplied to spec. and was produced from black and white paints. Maybe it was the only colour so created? I've used Citadel Adeptus battlegrey in the past, which I think is now called Eshin grey. These do not have a blue tinge. I've also used Tamiya tank grey, which is available as a rattle can. I hoped to get some variation in colours between wagons by using different manufacturer's paints but I cannot tell the difference between these. Citadel now do a colour called Dark reaper, which looks to have some blue/green to it and I'm going to try on my next wagon painting session. Beyond that I will be mixing in a little white or lighter grey to different pots to create some variation. I did finish one Mink F in a mid grey (Citadel mechanicus standard grey) but it looks very odd and too light to me, even for a faded example.
  16. They're still at it with tape too. There's a picture in the most recent friends paper, #105 about getting trains in iod working order, showing two pieces of black tape under the end of a coach for the purpose of insulation.
  17. A year is nothing, a mere grain in the sands of modelling timescales.
  18. I'm a big fan of horse boxes could you post a link please?
  19. That's so interesting since your compound slide and tool post set up seems to have a lot of height compared to what I have - the handles certainly appear much larger. Even though interchangeable it seems quite difficult to find parts for these things even if you have deep pockets. I've had some luck on ebay and also RDG tools. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
  20. What size is your lathe? It looks larger than my WW, which takes 8mm collets and a bit of a mongrel, although the bed, and headstock are stamped Boley iirc. I've had a sewing machine motor for years but the foot pedal is a rubbish way of controlling the speed for my mind. I wonder if I should use a smaller motor?
  21. There's a more recent one on the scale four forum.
  22. There are, increasingly, ways to achieve much without soldering. I would agree with the 3 posts before mine that it is unlikely to be entirely avoidable though. What do you enjoy making (rather than operating): buildings, landscape, track...? If the latter then there is a skill to improve on (soldering) but the others do not necessitate soldering and it is possible to commission track to 2FS standards (see small suppliers section of 2mm association website under Keith Armes name). It is preferred by most, and indeed recommended, to solder etched kits like underframes but you may have success with glue. Given your choice of period and prototype you will have to either make or have made a lot of what you want to achieve. You might be happy and able to have the things that you cannot do (solder) for yourself done on commission. I don't know if your branch line may only need some of the engines that are available ready to run in N and therefore 'convertible'.
  23. Ah, I didn't think I'd seen one but often other people have discovered something you hadn't.
  24. Is H&BR an appropriate livery for 1887 opens? I started some a long time ago and if it is then that would settle the livery choice since I'm from the B of H&B.
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