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Everything posted by dj_crisp

  1. Very nice Jack. I've also started weathering my Hattons 66s over the weekend with varying degrees of success. I think you can only appreciate the level of detail on the chassis by how long it takes to weather! I'll be interested in knowing how you do the CDL lights as it's an area I want to do on all of my DMUs/Pacers cheers Will
  2. I've been bogged down with soldering lighting circuits and so for a change have done a small amount of painting on the roof grille area of my Hornby 67 project. I've tried to replicate a photo I found on Flickr which suggests a kinda white background, a bit of black and some rust. Then the next fun job was trying to seat the grille better than the original. Limited success which resulted in alot of flaked paint off the grille so that's just been repainted. Hopefully I can get the lighting circuits for this sorted. I dont know why but my soldering of lokpilot 5s always seem to result with crossbars or something cause lights on leds that aren't supposed to be lit. It's really annoying! Other than that not alot has been going on in my modelling world that's not related to Hattons Sheds.
  3. Just picked up on this thread and it's been an interesting read. I recommend "night trains of British rail" for a flick through of lighting options in the BR blue period I'm sure the photos have a fairly long exposure but I found them interesting to compare loco lights to surrounding station lights etc. Anyhow totally agree that manufacturers can up their game on lighting. I think I've replaced all circuits on my locos now with probably only a hattons ews old style lights remaining (mind you that one benefits from allowing a touch more light by opening up the light cover slots a little). I've often thought a simple 10 function circuit board with prewired resistors connected to a 21pin socket would do well in the after market sense. It would save me loads of time! Anyhow for me I haven't felt excited over most of the recent new tooled locos. I kind of feel what I have is good enough so other than Accurascale venturing into 37/4 to 37/7s then I doubt I'll be replacing many of my others. Coaches and DMUs however are a completely different matter! I can't wait to see the new 2b (and hopefully 2c!). A retooled 153 and 155 would really get my interest! And while not for me there are loads of modern stock not coated for. Anyhow it's great to see manufacturers pushing the boundaries on what's possible.
  4. Vitrains used a 2mm axle if that helps. I'll see if I have any spares when I converted mine... but think I sold them on.
  5. I've sold lots on ebay and a few things annoy me with the current setup... One is free listing which doesnt turn out to be free, as Ive been stung by a BIY 50p per auction upgrade. Firstly I didn't ask for it (often hidden on mobile listing) and secondly the listing stated no cost. I'm having fun with their customer services to get this refunded on principal. I'm still seeing 3 days for payments to clear not 24 hours. I miss PayPal as it was a nice hobby fund and nice being seperate from the main account I miss the old simple turbo lister software... stuff is more cumbersome to list these days. I know why they do it but charging a % on postage still irritates especially when they recommend postage costs being the exact amount rather than including the %. I'm now selling alot less that I used to. But still use Ebay as alternatives aren't that great.
  6. I've ordered 4 TSOs (3xNSE, 1xb/NSE) - thank you for releasing a great coach! And leaving some space for a few Mk2c's LOL I'm going to pause my Bachmann 2a refresh just so I can paint match Just a thought and I wonder if you can top this all off by inventing a buffer beam height coupling for between rakes? cheers Will
  7. Looking good Will and its definitely worth the effort of filling in the gaps. I should have done mine first like you did! Not overly successful but I did try and scratch wood graining in... not sure if it is noticeable though but fun to do after one of those days at work ;)
  8. Brilliant news! For me this is way more exciting than any retooled loco... Will be preordering quite a few soon! Cheers Will
  9. Totally agree! I'm just pondering what to do with the Hornby 67 circuits for independent lighting so that is one area I'd like improving. I have to admit I'd rather see the best efforts of modelling using older models as a base.... otherwise it could get a little dull just seeing the same superb new models on layouts. In the D&E world we're pretty close IMO to having a good base for most locos and its Coaches/DMU/EMUs that could do with catching up. Anyhow one thing I'm noticing is models are starting to develop an options list longer than a German Car manufacture!
  10. Hi all! I'm now moving onto to 66079 which has the old style lighting and I thought I'd try a lokpilot V5 MKL on this one to reduce wiring. Can I map all 10 functions to each output without the need to hard wire anything... or do things like cab lights need hardwiring to the decoder? Thanks Will
  11. Nice project Will! I hadn't realised all of the track is flatbottom - I'm sure that'll keep you entertained... have you sourced the point kits from Colin Craig?
  12. It's always amazing how cruel photos are. Some great progress here cheers Will
  13. It seems very smooth with only mild adjustment needed. Way better than anything I could build. So far I'm impressed. I just need to work out how to support it so am looking around for ideas. Cheers Will
  14. Despite the best efforts of DHL I've recently received an important aspect of the layout.... the traversers! (DHL claimed I signed for the package despite me not being home and away for a week.... so it was left at my front door for ages at the same time as local flooding reports on twitter.... in the end it all survived.) The Kit is from https://www.graingeandhodder.co.uk/ and when it first arrived the number of parts rather scared me! However it's very well made and even someone with my lack of woodworking skills managed to put it all together! They don't make one thats long enough for me but the units can be joined so I've opted for a larger one (3 coaches in length) and a small 2 coach effort so it'll fit a loco and 4 coaches. One advantage i see is that by splitting It also allows me to use them for different layouts etc. The boards went together really well and are nice and square with only minor tweaks for smooth operation and I'm pleased with them. I've ordered some cork and now just need to work out the best approach for a stand?? And then I'll have a 6 road traverser and the ability to run trains! I've also had a bit of a play with the station building attempting to improve under the canopy. I'll be surprised if you can spot the extra 10 hours of effort I've put in!! The obvious one is the building has had it's first coat of primer so spot mistakes and areas to tidy up (which are plenty) It's amazing that I've used an entire large can of Halfords white primer on this! The wood just seemed to take the primer like a sponge! The valencing is quite fragile and easily broken but I'm going to claim it adds character Also when I've stuck it into the platform there shouldn't be an floating legs. I guess I had better start some painting soon! ATB Will
  15. I do like the modules approach though. At the end of the day we all like different gimics and some people will find it great. I've glued shut working doors, replaced working louvres, glued and chopped rotating axles, removed "working" fans etc... so you can see which side of the fence I'm on. My gimic is lighting and no manufacturer has got this spot on imo so end up replacing this. I'd much prefer improved etches and glazing on par with Shawplan. It's probably not commercial or practical but they make more of a difference imo. I'm looking forward to seeing your 37s face in the flesh to assess whether you'll be the first to get the front glazing right. I'd happily pay more for etched frames and laserglaze fitted here.
  16. I'd enjoy the Schloer more... and I hate Schloer.
  17. Excellent progress! Ive never been able to build PH 37 steps so I'll be interested in seeing how you get on and what you think of them
  18. When it first came out I have to admit I thought the Hattons Class 66 looked like a rather special model. I never took the plunge until a few wobbly runners with glue marks on roof became available from good old hattons. And then Illumination Models produced a rather neat light board fix so I thought I'd have a go. The glue marks on roof turned out to be a misaligned roof grille and a few glue blobs around it; The roof grille is really rather nice so I carefully removed it then bent it to shape to better match the roof profile and then sprayed it black. The glue marks turn out to be an easy fix as with a sharp knife I could flick them off... then a bit of T-cut did the rest. Superglued on it looks ok to me and some gentle weathering will sort it out nicely; Next up was bodging in some kadees. I like to fit them to the chassis directly rather than in the NEM cams... so drilled a hole in the chassis and added another hole in the full valance. It's all fitted together with a 10BA bolt so is removable if needed. Also shown in the photo below is a bit of sticky black stuff I've used to remove light blead. Basically i did a cross and that sticks it together removing the bleed and for good measure sealed the outside. Then onto light boards. Now I have a love hate relationship with DCC and tbh most of the time it leans towards hate. Anyhow long story short I've bought the wrong decoder being a 21 pin MTC variant rather than the 21 pin MKV or whatever its called variant. So out came the soldering iron to pretty much rewire the thing; The marker lights is the only circuit left.... with AUX1-8 being hard wired onto the decoder. I try to be careful soldering but always suffer from "cross hairs" where faint connections are made. This one was a right pain but eventually I managed to find it being a thin strand from the decoder board. Took hours !!! Now turning to the Illuminated Models board fix. This is kinda great as it's dead easy to install and solder. I say kinda great as I bought 2 kits but this loco is a combined version of the two kits. For a while I thought I had a broken decoder as I couldn't get one set of tail lights working and for some reason only one marker. It was then on close inspection I found that the boards had missing LEDs. I'm hopeful that the faulty boards are replaced as while I'm very happy to pay £10 for the convenience of these I'm not overly happy if they don't work! But remarkably it's worked and I now have separate functions for each end for cab, tail, marker, day and night headlights; Conversion to EM is really straightforward. The wobbly locos are well documented on this site being the revolving axle boxes. I admit they look pretty cool in a straight line... but IMO they sit too proud and look weird going round corners and worse still look really odd when not centred! I can't see a way of sorting this design out to make them work so I've chopped mine and stuck them in. With Branchline 14mm wheels in place it runs silky smooth and is jolly impressive. (TBH the original wheels seem very good and I almost kept them just that I like to have all my wheelsets with the same profile.) Overall I'm very impressed with this loco. It's so detailed that I have a few bits off the bogies I've no idea where they came from! Being secondhand this loco is missing one of the rail deflectors which I will one day try and sort, and the front cabrail in the photos really needs sorting but it's very easily slipping into one of my favourites... I mean it can't help being a shed ! Very light weathering will be next if we ever get a dry spell!! Thanks for reading Will
  19. Thanks Nigel, I think it was on the decoder as I swapped it out and used the same LEDs and all looks OK on this one. Hopefully just my (lack of) soldering skills!
  20. Thanks again for your help, I've had a go at soldering and managed the following new mess of wires; After playing with the sprog I've now got independent markers, day, night and tail lights on the chassis. I'm hoping that by keeping the marker lights in the circuit board that the top marker will light ok with the lower markers.... and then I've guessed on the cab light wire (purple in the above photo) will work and use up all available functions. I'll find out later in the week after I've fitted kadees. Only issue I've had so far is one decoder has a faint "always on" on a few aux outputs.... not sure if thats my soldering or something up with the decoder but I can't seem to fix it. Hopefully this all works! Will
  21. Thanks for your help. I had a suspicion something was up.... I really have a love-hate relationship with DCC! I managed to directly wire AUX4 to the lights which seems to work... so i think you're saying I could hard wire in using the functions higher than AUX4? TBH I'm tempted to bin the Hattons circuit board as far as lighting circuits go and just wire them directly to the decoder. I'm looking forward to the day DCC is more simple and a manufacturer can get lighting circuits right. Cheers Will
  22. It's an MTC one... according to the label as I've no idea what that means
  23. Hi I'm proper stuck trying to understand how to program a Lokpiot V5 DCC using DecoderPro. I'm trying to set up a Hattons Class 66 to use the 10 functions of the Lokpilot V5 and am currently not having any success. First up I've updated decoder pro and it has the LokPilot 5 DCC decoder files.... which is great! I can change the loco address and speed table so at least I know I'm communicating to the decoder a bit. So far so good until I try to map lighting functions and now I'm stuck. I've read the decoder and the function map is as below; I guess this is a standard setup. The Lights currently behave as; Either Day or Headlight is permantly on at both ends... although I can switch between day & night lights using the physical swicthes 2&5 (i.e. the middle ones in the bank of three swicthes). I've fitted an Illuminated models light board and now have F1&F2 doing rear markers with F3&F4 doing front markers with hattons switches all set up for a 6 funtction decoder. Looking at above I really can't see how this is set? Unless the headlight 1&2 are the same function output I've managed to wire up AUX 4 and F6 seems to operate it so that one seems to be working... but struggling with AUX3 as this isn't working (which could be the new board i guess). Anyhow is there something I'm missing when programming the decoder.... and anyone know which functions are allocated to do which lights on the hattons board? Thanks Will
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