dj_crisp

I'm slightly curious as to which manufactuers have done this as I'm yet to see one myself that wouldn't need something like a lokpilot as a minimum (admittedly I haven't got a cavalex 56).

Well not much has happened on the layout over the last six months or so. But I have got round to wiring and finishing the trackwork on my traversers! It's amazing how long this wiring malarkey takes! I haven't worked out locking yet but at home they're suitably stiff it doesn't matter too much. I've also tried bolting the two boards together so see how they work. Quite pleased that they do! Having 2 boards gives me a little flexibility on how I run the layout at home as I'm a bit limited on space where it currently lives. So I can either operate as a terminus or end to end but limited to small 2 car DMUs as through trains. Next challenge is fitting so new TOUs and tie bars as a number have failed. This is pretty tricky as I didnt plan on making the change and the pointwork is all glued down. Jot looking forward to that challenge!

Sounds a plan. It was quite nice to see Bachmann using warmer white LEDs for this model.

What a great set of projects! I really like your 158s and agree the new tooling is excellent. One thought is will the GWR bodyshell have different light clusters to the RR one you have? I'm debating on renumbering my RR one and whether I can get the lettering off without damaging the front glazing. Keep up to good work? Will

50017 seems to have been in NSE pools it's entire career and the most exotic photo I have is it on parcels. Saying that Laira put 50s out on almost anything to run them in so I wouldn't worry as it'll look ace on some ballast.

I'm also VERY impressed with my first SLW purchase. Runs really nicely and the first one that for me just looks like a proper rat. I'm rather looking forward to having a go at weathering this, might attempt to make the ploughs look a little thinner but there doesn't seem much to do! Only a minor niggle is on first inspection the EM wheelsets look just like the OO wheelsets but on a longer axle. So the wheel itself is a bit wide/thick but I'm going to check dimensions are ok sometime soon before fitting.

This sounds very interesting! I look forward to your findings (even if you deem it not a success!)

There's a bit more to it than just wheel size. Shrinking the wheels means you have to start playing with bogie sizes and/or relationship with the body and/or ride height. Worse still you can end up with off centre wheels. I've seen all of these approaches taken by all manufacturers tbh. The loco may look alright on its own but horrible next to say a coach.

Imagine that eh? Well I think the answer is never! The 50 is a good example of the compromises needed for OO which I think punters will need to accept. Although even with the 50 I think you can accommodate both.... but there are plenty of current models which simply don't consider EM/P4 and I've simply stopped buying those.

I was lucky that I answered my phone end of last week and now have a very nice Rat at home. They have a long list of people to phone so I'm sure everyone will get contacted.

Thanks Bruce for your helpful reply. Makes sense to me that for OO a smaller wheel is used. It'll be interesting to see how the ride height can be maintained with the different wheel sizes. I know Hornby didn't bother but their design allowed modification with a big old file :)

Ok im still puzzled about the body fit issue. Is this a problem related to using more scale wheels and then having to have a gap to go round tight curves? I'm hoping there's not a Hornby solution to this issue and I was wondering if you've got a cunning plan as hinted earlier in the thread.

I'm also not a fan of the removable roof trend. Personally don't see any point in it unless you expect a need to replace smoking decoders. There are some nice aspects of the model and I'm looking forward to a production version to see the fit of the body to the chassis as you noted the fit isn't great. Have you managed a way of fitting scale wheels and keeping a nice ride height? Tricky and something Hornby couldn't do.

The more I look at Iris 2 the more differences i notice.... and then a biggie that i hadn't spotted before and is pretty obvious . Namely that the DMBS is from a batch where the guards doors are the other way round on one side. To resolve I didn't want to cut up a lima or Bachmann shell but it just so happens i have a beheaded Dapol 122. A quick matchup showed promise so I decided to have a go and see if it's possible. I guess there's two ways of doing this with one way being just cutting out the doors... or mine which is a bit more dramtic taking out a larger hole as i didn't fancy chopping through the door hinges or adding the door banger. The theory is I think i can make a nice straight edge by the door and a combo of filler and filing will sort out the end. Although Dapol got the positioning of the bottom door hinge wrong on their bubbles so I may or may not visit this! Being from a 122 the profile however is a little flatter than a 101. Also the height of the doors in a little shorter as on the 122 there is a nice moulding of the rivits. So I filed these off and with some shaping of the the top to the 101 profile it allowed me to extend the doors to the top of the shell. You'll probably see a stress line on the bodyshell... this is me cutting a V channel out of the back and force bending the plastic a bit more and sealing it with some glue. Hopefully it looks ok and I'll only really know when the unit has been primed. I've just done a trial fit to the intended chassis which has been converted to EM to see how it all looks (the interior will change!) and a small amount of modification was needed where the etches are. I've also added the Hurst bodyside etch along with a partial cut out - no idea what it is though! The fronts now have Shawplan frames added which is no easy task and slightly daunting as plenty of plastic needs to be removed! The headlight is a replica effort that I've filed down and drilled out ready for illumination. The DMS is a powered version as I think Iris 2 is a power twin so it's sitting on a motorised chassis from Bachmann spares. However this needs modifying as it's intended to be powered so has had a bogie added (also from Bachmann spares). The combination of the heavy power car and metal trailer makes this one by far the heaviest DMU i own.... not quite a light weight 😉 I think it has prospects of being an interesting DMU - next steps are to get some primer on when the weather is better and there's plenty to sort and research for the underframe. Thanks for reading!

Agree with all this. One advantage I find with enamels is the ability to fix my mess ups post spraying if I've not got my masking right! Certainly with weathering enamels are an advantage if spraying. I do like acrylics but tend to brush paint those.

I'm sure if you post about your enamel spraying someone will be able to help.

Thanks - That's the book i refered to. Cheers

My experience going from a cheapo setup to something more mainstream is focus on the compressor first. I now have a better spearmax one that's way better than my original cheapo giving me better spraying results. The most important thing I have is to have a constant air supply that you can vary pressure. I find every mix of paint I do I need to subtly change air pressure to get the paint to flow as I want. The cheap Chinese airbrushes work well to start with but tend to wear out quickly. But to get u started and have a practice they're fine. I currently use a Neo and a H&S brush now and plan on sticking with these two. All I'll say is airbrushing has transformed my enjoyment of modelling. I also keep re-reading George Dents book on airbrushing which is a great manual on the subject. Well worth a read before buying anything first.

While I don't like comparing models as you never know if the one you're comparing to is right or not... seeing this one next to a mk1 kind of highlights why things look so off on this one.

A few Iris 2 progress shots as I've had a few hours today to do some modelling; Went slightly crazy and decided to cut out the side grills and insert the etches which I think it's possibly worth the effort rather than just sticking them on. I'm rather hoping the primer coat hides all this mess! And I've decided lifes too short to really worry about getting the roof right so I've just stuck some 0.9mm wire in a few holes and added some MJT Mk1 catering vents. I've also done the DMBS the same way and just filled in the guards rear windows. Next up is making some engine coolant filler caps on the side and there are a few more bits on the Hurst etch to fit to the sides - just debating whether i need to make a few more holes for these or just stick them on!

Looking forward to something new! Hopefully nothing that's being retooled by someone else.

Lais? Not sure if they're a copy of DCC concepts..? Anyhow so many of both makes have died on me that I only use my remaining few for test purposes so I'm sticking to Zimo/ESU/Lenz these days. Of the non-sound variety to keep peace in my household ;)

A nice decoder that I use alot. Check out the JMRI decoder pro/ sprog setup as it's the only way I can understand this DCC coding malarkey... and then it's easy to remap functions to your preference.

Good luck with sorting the orange peel! I always find airbrushing a leap of faith and in any case I always sand down primer anyway 😉 I've gone with the principle of guess work and so have filled in my end windows. Just waiting for the filler to dry for a sand down then another spot of filling!

Quick question..... Does anyone know if the DMBS of Iris2 lost its inner windows by the corridor connectors? I don't have any photos but based on the new cable connectors between vehicles I can't see that it can have maintained them?