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    Living in a dream
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    Railways model and prototype. Cycling. Staying alive for as long as possible.

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  1. Going to be on telly next week I believe. Hopefully I'll be well enough to be able to leave the house and get to the market hall by early December. 100 yard walk to the bus stop, 100 yard (or less) from bus station into the hall. Can't get much handier than that!
  2. Progress at the moment is rather slow I'm afraid due to a combination of circumstances and I'm only working on this roughly every third week. However, I have made some progress as the following photos show. The wheel arches have now been fully opened up to take the P4 wheels, using a combination of 'dremelling' and gouging using a well sharpened jewellers screwdriver. The 'substrate' is a relatively new purchase, a honerycomb ceramic soldering 'mat' which I find very useful, both for soldering and for holding small items whilst filing etc. Next view shows the tools involved in the work along with the HL 'Rustler' Quadriver assembled. i have to admit that putting this together was one of the most problematic of all the HL gearboxes I've built. Some of this was due to my apparent ineptitude but also the rather tricky assembly sequence necessary to get everything in the right place. It has turned out to be slightly to wide to readily fit into the footplate slot but a bit of strategic grinding/filing will sort this out. To complete the assembly there is a need to solder nickel silver parts to the silver steel axle in a couple of critical places and I had difficulty in getting the solder to 'take'. To use to much heat may have affected the plastic gears so these were left out where possible until soldering was completed which I eventually managed - but I'm still not sure if the joints are fully satisfactory hence the use of nail varnish as well. The AG wheels are removed from the pin-point axles which are then turned down to length and the wheels refitted. The non-driven end can be assembled as in the photo but the driven end will have to have wheels fitted through the gearbox etc. when the time is right. Now to make the frames!
  3. Will you be making the parts available separately (brake gear, buffers, axleguards etc.)? I used to have a stock of these at one time in a Hornby Dublo Breakdown Crane box - but it's vanished (and sorely missed!).
  4. Like this one? This is a 4mm kit I bought from Adrian's stand at an exhibition way back in the mists of time................
  5. It's only a very light wipe and I've never noticed any degredation of the wheels over the several (many!) years I've been doing this. The lighter fuel evaporates very quickly in any case. When I'm building chassis I tend to fit and remove wheels/axles quite frequently to check clearances, smoothness of running, painting frames etc.
  6. I also lightly countersink the wheels' axle holes with a large sharp drill (6mm?) and make sure there is no 'swarf' in the hole before running a piece of rag with lighter fuel through the hole to degrease (does Colin use a release agent when moulding wheels?) it before using the same rag to wipe the end of the chamferred axle. Wheels fitted to axles with a GW press. However, I pack the rim and boss of the wheels in the press with thin plasticard (thickness depending on design of wheel) to try and ensure it is stable and won't rock when pressure is applied. A very thin smear of Tacky wax holds it all in place whilst pressing. All pretty normal procedures I guess but (so far at least!) with my removable axles I've not had any wheels come loose. I tried to re-use some Sharman wheels a couple of years ago but they remained resolutely loose no matter what I tried.
  7. I never have success in removing and refitting wheels such as Gibsons. They become loose on the axle and, as well as losing quartering, slip inwards so losing the b-2-b. How do you get over this? I make sure when building a chassis that I can remove axles, axleboxes and wheels intact as sets.
  8. Ordered 2 gearboxes and motors last Thursday, dropped through letterbox Saturday morning. Great service, thank you Chris.
  9. That's what the 'dummy' frames are for, to create a template to cut some metal ones. The potential trouble is that the 'slot' in the footplate casting may be slightly narrower than the overall max. width of the Quadriver so some judicious filing may well be in order. Until I build the QD I won't know for sure. The whole project is beginning to appear more involved than I initially thought! Still need to know what then threading is for the footplate/Hornby drive unit fixing screws. Possibly 2 - 2.5mm? 8BA to big, 10BA to small. I'm not sure what (if any) metric screws I have. EDIT - just found Porcy Main's post in the Hornby thread! He says 2mm coarse thread. ANOTHER EDIT - forgot to say that I ordered the QD and another box and motor on Thursday and they dropped through the letterbox Saturday morning. Great service from Chris.
  10. New build thread started here - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/167427-a-p4-Hornby-ruston-48ds/ Just one last question here - does anyone know the threading of the footplate chassis securing holes? I'm presuming it will be a metric thread but I've only got BA ones and none of them fit!
  11. Recently I was offered, free, a body for the Hornby 48DS. The owner had used the chassis for a 3D printed body of his own manufacture and had no further need for the Hornby body. It was the 'whisky' one, in Brown, which I will in due course be repainting anyway. I have been following and contributing to the Hornby 48DS thread and have decided that now I've actually started on the project I would start a new thread here. The idea is to fit the Hornby body onto a High Level 21mm wheelbase Quad Driver which Chris has produced for powering the Judith Edge kit. I am presuming (indeed hoping!!) that it will fit the Hornby body as well, especially as I have now ordered one along with a small motor. When I received the body the owner had removed the 'side panels' already and I was relieved to find there was no damage to the bonnet sides. Perusing the photos by Porcy Main posted on the Hornby thread, and following his 'instructions' I managed to dissassemble the body and break it down into its constituent parts ie, footplate, cab, cab roof, bonnet and buffer beams. I hadn't realised that it was virtually all metal and initially was wary about cracking plastic parts but I needn't have worried. Apart from some 'cracks' when areas of stuck paint were separated all was OK. The footplate was very easy to detach from the superstructure, just 2 small screws and these were stored away in a small ziplok bag. The inside of the 'wheelarches' is to narrow to take P4 wheels and needs to be widened. This has been done (so far one end only) with a selection of rotary cutters in my Faux Dremel plus the occasional use of a sharpened jewellers screwdriver to gouge out bigger chunks. The casting is quite soft and even a sharp scalpel will remove some surplus metal. After gouging, the rotary cutters were used to smooth over the surface. While doing the 'dremelling' I rested the chassis on its side on a piece of 1/8th inch balsa wood. The projecting steps and lifting eyes were able to sink into the soft surface and be protected from damage while pressure was applied to cut the excess metal away I now need to cut away the other pair of arches and then my plan is to make a dummy set of inside frames to check I have the correct height and spacing to fit the High Level Quad Driver in the correct position.
  12. I decided milling in the lathe might be a tad OTT so I'm currently attacking the wheel arches with a series of diamond (I think) rotary cutting tools that came with my Faux Dremel (some supermarket or other!). They are removing the excess metal but it's a slow job. I've also tried a sharpened jewellers screwdriver to gouge out larger chunks but the rotary tool is still used to smooth off. I decided that doing this allowed the sand pipes to remain in position, I can hold them out of the way during grinding. Now I know that they can be pulled out it is an option if required. They seem to be quite tough and able to withstand bending etc. Hopefully photos to follow of the whole slow process, probably in a separate thread. BTW, the roof has come away after a modicum of forceful behaviour - but there was no glazing! I wonder if the previous owner removed it for his other project. No problem in making a set of flush glazed windows in due course.
  13. Thanks for the tips PM. I'll try the roof again, perhaps I'm being a bit to careful! My buffer beams came away quite cleanly, only one spigot broke but I'll probably stick them back in due course. Can't really see a need to take them off again once everything is finished - unless of course you can advise me different! I was considering clamping the chassis vertically, using the flat ends in the machine vice. Good advice on making a spacer. I've plenty of wood scraps that will come in useful. The steps etc. on the sides will get in the way if clamping in the other direction. I'll also have to take care of the sand pipes during milling - unless they can be pulled out. Have you tried this? The Quad Driver and small iron core motor now ordered (along with a Load Hauler + and motor to replace the one I nicked from my Gordon Ashton Peckett chassis kit). Nothing like a bit of plastic bashing to raise the spirits.
  14. Appearing at an ex-Market Hall near you in December I have been informed.
  15. Taken it apart, including the buffer beams (hooks removed by straight forward pulling) - but cab roof seems to be securely attached and I ain't going to force it. Going to order a 21mm Quad Driver from HL today and work out a design/pattern for the inside frames. I've got several pairs of Gibson Lowmac wheels which are slightly to wide for the chassis so my intention is to mount the chassis in the vertical slide on the lather and lightly mill the recesses deeper. Should I start a thread on Kit and Scratch Building? BTW, here's a link to the Adam Lythgoe white 48DS, a little way down the page. https://www.trucknetuk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107741
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