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  • Location
    Living in a dream
  • Interests
    Railways model and prototype. Cycling. Staying alive for as long as possible.

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  1. I caught an episode of Father Brown on Drama channel last Friday which was based on the murder of the local stationmaster. He had (allegedly) been building a model railway in an outhouse for 30 years meaning that he started it around 1922? The layout was on view, very nicely done in OO, representing the local station (Gloucester and Warwickshire Railway?) - but with Streamline track, plastic building etc. so rather anachronistic regarding its supposed history. Does anyone know the origin of this layout?
  2. John Ahern used a very flexible scale/gauge ratio on his 'Madder Valley' layout. Festiniog England saddle tanks and Darjeeling Himalaya locos for example running on 'standard gauge' OO track with the dimensions 'amended' to suit.
  3. Minimum £150.00 plus VAT per figure you don't receive. Cash only...................
  4. I'm one of Alan's 'under the counter, nudge, nudge, wink, wink, sold in plain brown wrapping paper' figures Along with many other infamous notorious notable 'personalities' from the hobby.
  5. Are the brass window rims part of the moulding? If so they're very nicely painted. And who's the driver?
  6. I've got a bridge (dating from the late 50's) complete but one of the 'cross girders' R78/2 has lost an 'end'. I used to use these as loads on a flat wagon. I never had a layout big enough to use it as a bridge with all the associated bits but it is an impressive item on its own. I also had the box for a long time but I think it gradually decomposed over the years and was jettisoned some time ago. No idea what happened to the small screws!
  7. I think modern bits shouldn't be filed if at all possible, they are made with a coating that protects the bit. I use both a sponge and a 'brass swarf' cleanrer - along with a small tin of bit cleaner which I find invaluable if the bit gets a bit 'mucky'. A quick dip/rub in this, wipe it on the sponge and all is well. I use Poweflo flux for all 'average' work with the occasional acid flux application when I feel it is required. My iron is an RS Components adjustable temperature one which I tend to use turned up to 11 (or at least, quite high!). Solder 99% of the time is 145. Very rare that I have any 'failures' - but they do occur occasionally and most of the time I can recognise why.
  8. If he does there'll be more solder than brass!
  9. I use the gas ring. Hold the offending parts(s) in a pair of long nose pliers in the flame for only a couple of seconds and it all falls apart. Won't damage the cooker as it's ceramic. Cleaning excess solder off can be a bit of a task at times but a desolder wick certainly helps. I've 'rescued' several 4mm etched kits like this.
  10. More scrap required? I've got a small paper bag full of swarf scraped off my lathe bed you can have. Rather oily but you could wash it Never chuck anything away! That's my motto.
  11. I've got loads of pin vices, several are Eclipse of a fair vintage and others a set of (probably) Chinese ones. All the smallest ones close up to nothing so will hold a 0.3mm drill. When drilling this small I make a small indent with a fine scriber (old gramophone needle held in another old pin vice) to prevent the small drill wandering. What I also do is use a large drawing pin in the open end which acts as a bearing when turning the vice and stops you wearing a hole in your palm or finger end.
  12. No fully concealed gear trains back in those days! Long before Bachmann 9F appeared, I was going to use a Kitmaster one. It was going to be an exercise in 'engineering' with Ultrascale bevel gears (still got them), step-down geartrains etc. etc. Finally decided it was going to be to much of a faff so I built a Pannier tank instead........
  13. I've still got the Mashima 1830 I bought years ago for a tender powered 9F I was planning. Much to big for anything I tend to build these days! But never say never..........
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