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5050

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Everything posted by 5050

  1. Yes Mike, I am aware - and someone was going to get me a set next time he visited. However, I thought I'd see if the tinning idea actually worked and it did so used the plates. By the time they get a film of weathering I doubt if the material they're made from will be apparent anyway! BTW, I used the Humbrol 'Clear Fix' to attach them as it's a bit more controllable than glue and can be applied carefully with a small brush. I also used it to secure the wiper blades.
  2. I think I'm there now with this. Fitted the builder's plates, sand pipes and wiper blades (which I thought I'd lost until I discovered them this morning hiding in a bag of frame spacers!). I need to make a batch of coupling links for this and several other locos which need them prior to 'entering service' - whenever that may turn out to be! Rear view of cab with blades and cabside Ruston plates. These are included in the kit - but etched in brass. As the real ones are aluminium I tinned them (on the etch) with a drop of acid flux and an almost dry iron before filling with paint which was rubbed off the high spots (ie the lettering) when dry. The roof is not fully attached in this shot hence the slight gap. And the cab interior as promised. Not very visible when roof in place but at least there's something in there! According to a drawing I've got the brake standard slopes forward slightly. I used one I had in my stash of 'useful bits'. I've now noticed that I need to add a spot of dull Black to the top of the exhaust pipe. Now to decide the next project. Could be finishing the High Level Pannier chassis that I started early last year.
  3. I use a jar of Humbrol 'Clear Fix' for sticking windows. It's probably identical in make up to all the other similar products. I've also used it to attach the builder's plates to my Ruston 165 build. A lot less messy than glue.
  4. "If it was an etched kit I would stick oversize pieces of clear packaging on the inside, but with the thick plastic walls of the cab, this will look naff. I have had to use a thick clear plastic and have had to cut and file each piece to size. It's all very hit and miss. The fact that the apertures taper in doesn't help either." That's how I did it on my 04 back in the dark ages (ie, the late '80's). It might have been from a Ferrero Rocher box.
  5. Well, here we are again, over 2 weeks later - and I haven't been totally idle despite melting to a grease blob some days! When it's like that I can't do any modelling, just sitting in a dark room with the curtains pulled and a fan at full blast. I have managed to get on with the painting on the (occasional) cooler days. A full coat of Grey primer (which is actually a few shades lighter than the photos show) and a coat of white followed by Yellow on the buffer beams. This was followed by some masking with Tamiya tape for the Black stripes as I've done before. However, when I had to adjust a couple of tape sections - the paint underneath peeled back to bare metal!! I was not happy (to say the least!). I scraped the beams back to bare metal and gave them a coat of Precision etch primer (squirted some into a container and brushed it on). Same thing then happened on the cab sides, back and front! Scraped back to bare metal and a coat of brushed etch primer. I should have done all the brass parts like this in the beginning! One result of all this was that I decided against yellow/black striped buffer beams and went for plain Red instead which also meant I should paint the rods the same colour. Here are the Front and Back beams prior to the Disaster Darling. Having got over this setback I have fitted out the cab with glazing, controls, brake standard and a rather portly driver courtesy of Dart Castings. (Photo to follow) A coat of 'Corporate Diesel Blue' with black footplate and red rods etc., a coat of Dullcote, some weathering, rusting etc. and this is how it looks now. Still a few small details (eg sand pipes, coupling links, builder's plates) to add and I'll call it a day. Thankfully it still runs like a sewing machine which goes someway to alleviating some of the grief I have experienced over the past few weeks!
  6. Thoroughly enjoyed it, looking forward to the next one. But I was a bit confused with the locations visited on the Aldwych branch. Where is the very old station (with the original track etc.) positioned in relation to the 2 other sites visited? Perhaps I missed a bit of commentary somewhere!
  7. I have used the Butanone supplied by Hobby Holidays which, as I've stated above, works very well with C&L chairs. Are Exactoscale chairs made from a different material, however slight, that might affect 'sticking' performance with Butanone?
  8. Butanone for me on several layouts, can't ever remember any problems getting chairs to stay attached. Sleepers are either S4 Society or EM Society ones. For points I use a combination of rivets in 'strategic' positions and plastic chairs elsewhere.
  9. I hope Master Card, Visa et al have got plenty of staff to handle all the transactions you will be sending them!
  10. If they are 'rather' old then the plastic may well be brittle. A new set of Markits wheels is probably the best option. Easy to fit, self quartering and all metal.
  11. Wouldn't a P4 one be more accurate?
  12. Hopper looks great. How long did it take to build and weather it?
  13. Easy is, well, just to easy................................
  14. There's always a first for everything Probably end up a dirty 'steel' colour, they're already chemically blackened. I'll experiment with some Humbrol Metal Cote I've acquired from somewhere - but never used . Yet..................
  15. Couple more things added. First the pickups from 0.33mm nickel silver wire bent to shape and soldered into very fine 'U' section brass which adds a bit of support and makes them marginally easier to attach to the pick-up 'plate'. Temporary wire sheathing 'nuts' still in use until I decide what to do about the controversial issue of 'to paint or not to paint' wheels and rods. And after a rummage around in my stash of potentially 'useful' bits I have found a horn which I've attached to the cab roof. You can also just make out the soldered connection between the horizontal and vertical cab handrails. Next is finalising the size and shape of the glazing bits I made at the start of the build and also the cab fittings. And then painting..................................... Oh, and I hooked up the motor to the pickups, a bit of light oiling - and it runs beautifully. Major relief..........!
  16. Thanks for the info. I missed it as I looked in the 00 section rather than 00-9. Is there sufficient clearance for a 4mm standard gauge loco to pass under?
  17. Bachmann Wagon Hoist? Not seen that before. Looks to be a usefull item. Any details you can provide please?
  18. I admit that I do it the other way round with the tube on the brake hanger and the wire in the frame. The tube I use has a 0.45mm bore to fit 'handrail wire'. Never thought of reversing the design, might try it next time I build a chassis that needs removable brake gear.
  19. Now doing some more work on the chassis and decided to thin the coupling rods down a bit by milling them thinner. Still need a bit of tidying up and filing. Was a bit over-enthusiastic with the right end of the top one but once it's painted (?) fitted and dirtied it'll be OK. I now need to fit the brakes and tackle the pickups which I always find a bit awkward with small wheel locos.
  20. A bit more finished this morning - the handrails. Not much to say that hasn't already been said about the knobs so I won't say anything Rails 'stuck' into the knobs with a dab of superglue, one end being fitted flush and the other end snipped off and filed back with a mini-file once the glue set fully. The horizontal ones below the cab side windows were a bit different. The end next to the vertical rail centre knob is attached to it. I presume the real one has 3 holes in it. Rather than stick it and hope it stays put I tinned the end of the wire and with a small dab of flux, a hot clean iron and a bit of trepidation, I soldered the end to the knob. Seems to have worked! The bonnet top panel and the 'mushroom' were chemically blackened as I had some on a Q-Tip from blackening the wheel balance weights. Next question - do I paint the wheels in the body colour (probably corporate Blue) or leave them Black? And how about the coupling rods? None of my other industrial 'creations' have had wheels and rods painted.
  21. I've got one of those - but it's such a lovely etch that I've considered framing it rather than build it1
  22. Not bothered about the Stukas per se - but I like your avatar. He went like a Stuka yesterday didn't he?!!
  23. Rub steel tools against a strongish magnet and they'll be perfectly adequately magnetised for what we do. I find that magnetised tools can be a nuisance too! The Tacky Wax tip is good. I've used it when trying to fit screws into Mashima etc. motors to attach them to gearboxes.
  24. Well, at least we can correctly count the number of wheels on a loco - including the tender.................
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