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Andrew1974

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Andrew1974 last won the day on July 22 2012

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  1. I have found this pick elsewhere showing the sort of thing I am thinking about Filler has also been suggested, but how on earth do you get it between the sleepers whilst keeping it off the top of the sleepers?
  2. Hi All, I know in the real world railway companies used all sorts of materials as ballast for their track. I feel like I can model the ballast of a running line with a reasonable level of reality but I am not sure how to approach a goods yard. Looking at photo’s (mostly from the 60’s) many of the goods yards look like the area surrounding the track is pretty solid, with no noticeable stones etc. Probably some stone under there somewhere topped with years of detritus to make a solid looking surface, often level with the tops of the sleepers. Has anyone found a good way of modelling such surfaces and if so, please can you share your secrets. Many thanks Andrew
  3. The Spurn Point railway has always interested me. Due to the changing shape of the spit of land the railway looks like it went straight out into the sea - which I didn’t. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spurn_Point_Military_Railway
  4. Ok, so slightly later than hoped but here is my first attempt: I’ve got 10 roads in the fiddle yard, most of which will take a 6 coach train. I’ve also included a turntable with the small engine shed top left, and added in a small pair of private sidings on the other side of the track to the shed just to add a little more operational interest. I’ve only gone for a simple 2 platform secondary station with related goods yard. The yard can be shunted without fouling the mainline. So you could set a couple of trains tail chasing whilst doing a bit of shunting if you wanted. In the space you have you could fit lots more in, but, the more you add the more you risk the train set look. Anyway, just my ideas, I’m sure others would do it differently and there no right way of doing it, I’d just spend some time working out what you want to achieve first...oh and if you are going to use a loft take some time first to ensure it is going to be some where you want to spend time, make sure it is properly insulated and ventilated. Good luck Andrew
  5. Hi Simon, If anyone is going to actually help, then I think we need more info (or at least we have to make some assumptions), So far I have: 00 gauge, 24’ x 6’ space to work with 1950’s - 1960’s (although the stock I can see appears to be from mid 1930’s to early 1960’s) lots of features (big station, goods yard, engine shed) requirement for a fiddle yard 6 coach trains Avoid the ‘train set look’ (flat boards with straights and bends) As I don’t know what your likes and dislikes are I thought I would set out what I would do given the same starting point, whilst taking you through why I would do it - feel free to ignore it all or take some of the bits and adapt for your own preferences. Track: if you want to avoid the train set look dump the train set track. Peco Streamline is the way I would go for ease. I love the bullhead track but would ignore for this layout (limited range and expensive) and go for code 75 flat bottom rail (easier to make look good than code 100) using electrofrog points (I find performance is better than insulfrog points). Baseboard: Given these are built I would not change too much but I would loose the gradient and have the track on a single level. In my experience that gradient is just going to lead to frustrations. Track plan basics: I’d start with the two ends and assume each end is going to be a semi circle roughly 2’6” radius - being the largest that can reasonably fit (again tighter radius suggests train set). If you assume a few inches at each end so the track is not right to the edge of the board then that will leave roughly 18’ feet each side for the straight(ish) bits. My other overall proviso (because it’s important to me) is reasonably realistic formations, akin to what would typically be seen in the chose period. So for me in say 1960, the key basic one is minimising facing points. So, what would I do with that space and those self imposed limitations. On one side I would put a fiddle yard, for 6 coach trains experience tells me that I can fit a reasonable fiddle yard in 12’, this would leave 6’ remaining that I would earmark for the engine shed. On the other side I would add the station with related goods yard. I would not try to add in anything else at the risk of it being over cluttered...I want some space for scenery, so the trains are moving from a landscape of some sort, which could be urban, rural or a mixture. I’m thinking a bridge over a river at one of the ends might break up the ‘flat baseboard’ thing a bit. Now I have decided what I want to achieve, I am going to get out a pen and paper and doodle a few ideas to see what I like. I’ll post what I come up with tomorrow. Andrew
  6. Hi Mike, can’t help much on the railway questions for this bit of geography, but this a PP9 is a 9 volt battery Andrew
  7. I was given my oldest gauge master as a present for my 16th birthday over 30 years ago and it is still going strong, unlike the Hornby 8f that I got at the same time that has long gone to the fiddle yard in the sky.
  8. Goathland for me. Being going regularly since before programs about policeman and nurses or films about wizards made it famous.
  9. It’s not a lot different to buying something at full price to find it goes on sale the next day. Yes, maybe mildly annoying, but I’m going to get disgruntled about it. And from a publishers perspective it does indeed help sell more mags (at least it did when I used to work in publishing some years ago).
  10. If you change the R604’s opposite the diamond to R606’s then you should be able to get it to work. Either Hornby crossing should work in the middle, never used the slightly different peco one so not sure if that would work or not
  11. Sounds like it could be helpful for drumming up interest for when taking it on the road is possible. I’ve just read the comments on the Daily Mail article and 95% + of them appeared to be very positive.
  12. Whilst much of what you right is correct, this part is not, very few Games Workshop / Warhammer shops make a loss, most are quite profitable. I play quite a lot of board game and board game shops (most of which are independent businesses) mostly have an area where you can go and play board games ( or table top games), often having a cafe or similar as part of the setup. Given these are small businesses it is difficult to assess how profitable they are but many I use (or at least did until recently) have been in business for a number of years - so clearly had to making some money. I think it’s a great way to support a hobby, but slightly more difficult to do successfully in the realm of model railways.
  13. Interesting to see fixed and switched diamonds next to each other. Why might this be the case?
  14. In terms of baseboard construction I’ve used a trackbed of 12mm ply (Over engineering but I had a spare piece big enough) and a frame of 56mm x 18mm ply (again because I had some to hand). The back scene and front fascia once I add one are from 5mm ply. The picture below shows the view from underneath. also visible is the uncoupling magnet. Point control is to be added, I’ve cut slots for an operating wire. I was thinking of servo’s rather than solenoids as I am hoping they will be gentler (is that a word?) on the points. I have not used servo’s before so some investigation required.
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