bigbadbadge

Hi all Please can I ask if anyone has a set of instructions for the above that they no longer want and could send me (obviously I would pay postage costs etc) or that they can scan and e-mail me. Bought one second hand and no instructions are present. Thanks in advance All the best Chris

Hi all Sorry I have not been on for a while however I have been doing and are still doing the loft conversion with occasional modelling time. I have now weathered the loco. I went and snapped off the push pull connection pipe from the buffer beam so will have to do those again and add some couplings. See what you think. Thanks for looking All the best Chris

Hi Dave I am sorry but I have been absent due to a loft conversion which is still ongoing although painting now. This looks absolutely stunning, thanks for the tip on making the washout plugs I may have to use that in future. Did you secure the drill to anything ? Keep up the great work All the best Chris

Hi all Got some paint and decals on finally, I need to matt varnish to then weather appropriately will hopefully do some this week/weekend. I have lost to of the push/pull pipes on the front as they broke during handling so need to replace. The paint is Humbrol 85 Satin Black mixed with Humbrol 78 RAF Grey/Green to tone it down a bit. I know the Southern decals are slightly too big but that's all I had and I am trying not to spend too much. Thanks for looking Chris Edit, I have just realised that I have knocked off the lamp Iron in front of the funnel.

Looking very nice good to see the wheels turning too. Keep up the good work All the best Chris

Wow thanks guys for your kind comments Thanks Peter that is good to know Jack, I am doing the Transition period so a few years either side of 1948 so I can have BR, Southern and transition (although I do have some later BR liveried locos too, but may redo these at some point. Thanks again, Paint is now on and will be gloss coating tonight for decals, then weathering hopefully this weekend hopefully. All the best Chris

Hi Great work, the Dynamo and associated wiring looks lovely. All the best Chris

Hi all Cab handrails now on using .33 wire with plasticard capping and I am now calling it done so we are now ready for paint finally. I may get some done tomorrow as a bit tired to continue tonight. Thanks for looking All the best Chris

What a lovely looking loco and what amazing work. This looks great. Keep up the good work All the best Chris

Hi Bryan No Worries, I cheated I am afraid by using the etched sheet. I don't know who else does them. I would hope someone would take over the etches but I have not seen anything anywhere re that I will keep an eye out and let you know if I see any. If you do them out of wire the result will be amazing I am sure. Keep up the good work All the best Chris

Thanks guys for the kind comments and thanks Brian for the image that is reassuring and I hope they are similar. I was going to paint however the moulded on cab handrails were bothering me so I have pared them away and have made plasticard top mounts and will hopefully get them tidied up tomorrow and add the new wire ones which should really help to finish it off. Thanks again All the best Chris

Hi Bryan Wow retirement (I hope I can make it). I would love more modelling time too. I have been pondering couplings and am still not sure what to do yet, I have some auto couplings to play with and try out also read about some in a book by Ian rice on modifying and improving RTR goods wagons which is a good book and may try this method but not sure yet. I was also looking at the newer standard couplings with part of a staple glued to the dropper to allow a magnet to lift it up which I saw on the lovely Stockton Mill Layout in a back issue of Railway modeller. So plenty of food for thought. I have replied to your question in my D3 thread and use Cyanocrylate glue which is great stuff. Keep up the good work All the best Chris

HI Bryan Thanks for your kind words. The grills are not that bad to attach, I am using a Mainly trains etch and they are not correct as they are 6 bar and the D3s were 4 bar windows as far as I can tell. They are stuck on with Cyanocrylate glue I use Expo thick which is also good for gap filling, I also use the thin stuff to flow into joints and they are both good. I hope that helps. Thanks to all for the likes, it is much appreciated. I am finally ready for paint now. I made up the gauges as per an article in the Detailing and Improving Ready To Run Steam Locomotives by George Dent, which has proved very useful (I particularly like his work on the Dapol/Hornby Terrier and intend to do the same conversion myself soon). Basically it is wire bent round in a circle (well sort of) and then solder is melted into the middle of the circle and they are filed flat. Very basic but quite effective in the cab. Whilst on the gauges, I am unable to tell if they are in the right place or not as I could not find any references, but I am not bothered as they will look good (to me anyway) when painted. I have also corrected the rear window bars on the left rear window and added two hooks to the buffer beams I had missed off. I am calling this done now and will start painting etc. One thing I would like to add is that this Loco kit was sold to me by Ray Kinsella (Wainwright on the forum) who was very kind fella and helped me out with details for locos such as this and my L1. He loved SECR and the Hastings area and so the D3, which ran in the locale was a bit of a favourite from what I gather, unfortunately Ray passed away last year and so did not get to see it built. I hope that I can do him proud with this build when finished Thanks for looking All the best Chris

Hi Looking great so far, I have a great admiration for people who build up Etch Loco kits, it frightens me to think about all that brass to solder together. Does look amazing though. Keep up the good work. All the best chris

Hi All Almost ready for paint, added the push/pull pipe work to buffer beams and sand pipes, also window bars on the rear cab windows (although I notice one has slipped). The last piccie is the start of some gauges for the cab. Just got to sort out the window grill and add a couple of bits then it's ready for some paint. This loco is going to be 32365 not long after nationalisation where it still wore the black paint with yellow sunshine Southern lettering and BR numbers. The loco ran on the New Romney branchline, which is a fascinating line to me and one day I will model attempt to model New Romney station. One day !!! Thanks for looking All the best Chris

Hi Some great work there and some useful tips in this thread. I have tried clearing half built models and am getting there but it has taken a few years !!! Keep up the good work All the best Chris

Thanks Guys for your kind words I have had a riveting evening tonight !!! I have added some archers fine transfers around the smokebox and buffer beams. Lamp irons now completed not much more to do now before some paint can go on. Thanks for looking Chris

Hi All A bit more progress, starting to add the smaller final bits now, lamp irons, smoke bod door handle, pipework etc: I cannot locate any decent side views of the right hand side of the loco to see what the arrangement is on the top side of the boiler between the dome and the cab which may hold things up a bit. Will add the rear lamp irons tonight and het the brake standard in the cab. Thanks for looking All the best Chris

Very nice indeed, great work and quick, I especially like the 4MT. My pace is truly glacial. Keep up the good work All the best Chris

Hi Gordon Yes you are probably correct and I have to confess I had not thought of that at the time. I am still very new to this loco building lark and so at the moment I tend to follow the instructions. I also did not have any Mashima motors to use, I do now but will leave as is as disassembly now would be a nightmare I am sure. All the best Chris

Hi Fantastic work your scenery is lovely and I liked the tutorial for the yard groundwork. I have not seen the blogs but I became fascinated after seen the photo in the tail pages of MRJ and am happy that I have located it on here. Keep up the great work if you have not gone nuts over all those rivets. All the best Chris

Wow this is amazing work, and looks fantastic, like the ideas for the pulley and the springs. Great work All the best Chris

Looks very interesting, and massive, would love to do something this size although space is prohibitive well and money!!! Very nice work are you doing the etched work and casting your self ? Keep up the good work Chris

Hi all Bit more progress, I have added some more of the push/pull (or pull/push) gear with some pipe work etc. May be able to finish this soon. Fingers crossed. Thanks for looking All the best Chris

Hi Bill Looking good so far and very quick too. Great work. Love the idea of using the T9 chassis. I used the Triang one with mine but remotored this with a Mashima 1024 motor and gearbox from SE finecast and it works a treat and only needed minimal clearancing. This is a flying visit as I am knackered and having an early one (have been working hard all week on the loft conversion. I was in the newsagents today looking for the latest MRJ magazine and noticed that the February edition of BackTracks magazine has an Article on the L1 with some colour images that I have not seen before (Typical now I have finished mine) and thought that this might be worth looking at. Hope it helps. All the best Chris