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  1. Time for an update on this engine. I've been progressing this build in between other things so it has been quite gradual to develop. This first photo shows me milling out as much clearance for the coupling rods as physically possible. Part of the problem was that the phosphor-bronze footplate is quite thick and extends further down than the real footplate, so I removed the worst offending sections, identified by trial and error with the chassis. For future locos I suppose I will design in these cut-outs to begin with! Next up, I decided to tackle the loco brakes. I thought th
  2. The next thing I did was to add the reversing lever and smokebox door, which you can see in the photo below. The reversing lever was included (as a single piece) on the etch, but I struggled to fit it between the splasher and the boiler. I think this is probably because of the splasher being a bit over-sized compared to the prototype. In the end I had to file a curved bit out of the lever. The smokebox door was turned on the lathe, doing the curve with a graver. It has a spigot in the back locating it in the etched hole in the smokebox front, and was drilled 0.3mm all the way through to attach
  3. These photos show you the progress so far on the loco body. The footplate is made of two layers for strength, both etched: a top layer of 0.25mm nickel silver and a bottom layer of 0.4mm phosphor-bronze. To enable fitting of the buffer beams and side valances, the p/b layer is smaller, and the underside of the n/s layer has a half-etched rebate around the outside. In this next photo you see the main etched parts fitted above the footplate, comprising the cab, smokebox front and splashers. There are a few missing etched details like the reversing lever and lamp irons, a
  4. Progress will initially appear exceedingly fast because I'm trying to catch up with this blog! But rest assured that I was doing this construction in about November over quite a few odd hours. First up, here is the tender chassis assembled. The spacers are 6.4mm PCB with gaps filed in on each side, soldered on using the jig described in the previous post. The horizontal one is set slightly below the top of the frames so that there is somewhere for the solder to attach on top. The extra axle hole is for the body pivot, which I have yet to fit. It's designed to take a standard muff o
  5. Thanks - these are good suggestions. I should be able to try out the worm mesh soon as I think I have the correct gearset in stock.
  6. It's about time that I introduced my next locomotive project, which has actually been going on since before I started the Scrap Tank. It's a Barney 0-6-0. It started with the Worsley Works etch, but has morphed into a project using my own etches for the chassis and body, as well as for a 6-wheel tender (the Worsley etch provides the 8-wheel type). The main reason for not sticking with the Worsley etch was the fact that I wanted to do my own tender including axleboxes. I reasoned that I might as well make etches for the loco as well, to make construction easier and facilitate a built-in gearbox
  7. It's high time I posted an update on the scrap tank, which is approaching completion. Painting started with a coat of grey Halfords primer from a rattle can. I then used the airbrush to spray the basic green colour all over. I find that Tamiya acrylics spray quite nicely, so I used a mixture of olive green and white, thinned about 50:50 with Tamiya's own thinner. This works for me spraying at about 15 psi (although I don't really trust the gauge on my cheap and cheerful compressor). After painting the basic green colour I used a brush to paint the black smokebox, cream cab interior, and variou
  8. Next I added some remaining details - the clack valves are impressions made by threading two short lengths of brass tube of 0.6mm and 0.8mm outside diameter onto a length of 0.4mm brass rod. All three of these came in a useful pack from Albion Alloys. They were covered in flux then soldered on with a small amount of solder, before bending the pipe to curve under the boiler. Fiddlier to make were the next bits, which I **think** are controls for the sandboxes - they sit either side of the smokebox. These were made in three pieces: a length of brass tube was soldered on to a 0
  9. Here's a photo of the loco before the details referred to in the title were added. In this picture the motor is not fitted, so the cab looks empty. I was running it up and down the track under gravity after glueing the wheels into their muffs, checking that the motion was working. Actually I found that it was a bit tight and had to thin the slidebars further. The middle and rear crankpins have not yet been trimmed to length, so the temporary "washer" - made from electrical wire sleeving - grazes slightly against the bottom of the PCB footplate. The chassis paintwork needs quite a lot of touchi
  10. In my role as Publications Officer for the 2mm Scale Association, I'm currently working on a revamp of the "couplings" chapter of the erstwhile 2mm Handbook. I was intrigued by the reference to Lin-Cup couplings, which I hadn't heard of or seen. So I went back to the June 1976 issue of the 2mm Magazine to read Lindsey Little's original article. His goal of "something inconspicuous, not too unrailwaylike, close coupling, sturdy and capable of being made by a squint-eyed tyro with ten thumbs" sounded promising... I decided to have a go at making some following the instructions in the
  11. I've continued to add some of the never-ending bits and pieces to my Scrap Tank, and it's about time I recorded the progress. Here are sandboxes (I think that's what they are but wait to be corrected) - filed up from spare chunks of brass with a hole drilled in and a little turned cap soldered in. And here's one soldered in place next to the smokebox: In front of and behind the sandboxes, the tops of the locomotive frames (on the real thing) are visible above the footplate. You can just about see them in the next photo - I cut slivers of 0.25mm nickel silver
  12. The photo below shows the safety valve "saddle", as well as the tank filler caps (which were straightforward turnings from brass rod). The saddle was made in the same way as the new dome, with a thin flange squashed on to a rod. I soldered a spigot up inside it, and used this to hold the assembly while drilling out the three holes on the Proxxon milling machine. The front hole is for the whistle. The two main valves (not sure of the right terminology!) were made from 0.8mm brass tube drilled out at the top to form a thin flange. They were then soldered in place.
  13. As I mentioned, I wasn't happy with the over-thick flange on my original dome, so I made a new one using the "squashing on to a tube" technique that worked quite well for the chimney. Here we see the squashing stage in action, after drilling out and thinning the bottom flange. The resulting dome has a much finer and more realistic flange, as well as a better cylindrical shape, as you can see in the following two comparisons: Notice that the dome cracked around the bottom where it joined to the flange. I filled this with solder to arrive (after some car
  14. Apologies for the lack of updates recently. I've continued to make progress but not got around to writing it up. The next thing to be tackled was the chimney. Again I made a rough sketch guessing the dimensions from photos and Peter Tatlow's drawing. Since the chimney has a very thin skirt around the base, I decided to adopt the "squashing" method instead of the "filing" method used with the dome. In particular, I first drilled a hole up the middle of the chimney, then cut the top of the flange to the correct depth using a half-round cutter near the end of the bar. I then opened out the inside
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