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  1. Next I added some remaining details - the clack valves are impressions made by threading two short lengths of brass tube of 0.6mm and 0.8mm outside diameter onto a length of 0.4mm brass rod. All three of these came in a useful pack from Albion Alloys. They were covered in flux then soldered on with a small amount of solder, before bending the pipe to curve under the boiler. Fiddlier to make were the next bits, which I **think** are controls for the sandboxes - they sit either side of the smokebox. These were made in three pieces: a length of brass tube was soldered on to a 0
  2. Here's a photo of the loco before the details referred to in the title were added. In this picture the motor is not fitted, so the cab looks empty. I was running it up and down the track under gravity after glueing the wheels into their muffs, checking that the motion was working. Actually I found that it was a bit tight and had to thin the slidebars further. The middle and rear crankpins have not yet been trimmed to length, so the temporary "washer" - made from electrical wire sleeving - grazes slightly against the bottom of the PCB footplate. The chassis paintwork needs quite a lot of touchi
  3. In my role as Publications Officer for the 2mm Scale Association, I'm currently working on a revamp of the "couplings" chapter of the erstwhile 2mm Handbook. I was intrigued by the reference to Lin-Cup couplings, which I hadn't heard of or seen. So I went back to the June 1976 issue of the 2mm Magazine to read Lindsey Little's original article. His goal of "something inconspicuous, not too unrailwaylike, close coupling, sturdy and capable of being made by a squint-eyed tyro with ten thumbs" sounded promising... I decided to have a go at making some following the instructions in the
  4. I've continued to add some of the never-ending bits and pieces to my Scrap Tank, and it's about time I recorded the progress. Here are sandboxes (I think that's what they are but wait to be corrected) - filed up from spare chunks of brass with a hole drilled in and a little turned cap soldered in. And here's one soldered in place next to the smokebox: In front of and behind the sandboxes, the tops of the locomotive frames (on the real thing) are visible above the footplate. You can just about see them in the next photo - I cut slivers of 0.25mm nickel silver
  5. The photo below shows the safety valve "saddle", as well as the tank filler caps (which were straightforward turnings from brass rod). The saddle was made in the same way as the new dome, with a thin flange squashed on to a rod. I soldered a spigot up inside it, and used this to hold the assembly while drilling out the three holes on the Proxxon milling machine. The front hole is for the whistle. The two main valves (not sure of the right terminology!) were made from 0.8mm brass tube drilled out at the top to form a thin flange. They were then soldered in place.
  6. As I mentioned, I wasn't happy with the over-thick flange on my original dome, so I made a new one using the "squashing on to a tube" technique that worked quite well for the chimney. Here we see the squashing stage in action, after drilling out and thinning the bottom flange. The resulting dome has a much finer and more realistic flange, as well as a better cylindrical shape, as you can see in the following two comparisons: Notice that the dome cracked around the bottom where it joined to the flange. I filled this with solder to arrive (after some car
  7. Apologies for the lack of updates recently. I've continued to make progress but not got around to writing it up. The next thing to be tackled was the chimney. Again I made a rough sketch guessing the dimensions from photos and Peter Tatlow's drawing. Since the chimney has a very thin skirt around the base, I decided to adopt the "squashing" method instead of the "filing" method used with the dome. In particular, I first drilled a hole up the middle of the chimney, then cut the top of the flange to the correct depth using a half-round cutter near the end of the bar. I then opened out the inside
  8. I think the time spent fiddling with the chassis trying to get it to work with original motor definitely helped!
  9. It turns out that the cheap Chinese motors I bought on eBay are just that: cheap. Despite much fiddling with the motor position I couldn't get the original motor to turn the wheels while on the track. The chassis rolled freely with all of the gears and rods attached, but the motor would only turn the wheels if I held the chassis in mid-air, and then only if I held the motor in exactly the right place. On the track, it just wouldn't budge. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the motor just didn't have enough torque, and bought one of the Tramfabriek 0716 motors which are (newly) available
  10. To be honest, I'm not experienced with the lathe yet, so it is a bit of a case of trial and error!
  11. I made a start on the boiler "furniture" by making the dome. The first problem I faced was not having an accurate drawing of the real thing. This led to me making a first attempt, looking at it sat on the model, and then doing another one with slightly altered dimensions. Although it took some extra time, this did also mean that I had a practice run to work out my method. I started with some 8mm brass rod (annoyingly, the widest part of the flange was estimated to be a little more than 6mm, which was the next size down that I had. I started by chucking this in the lathe drilling a
  12. Next step was the cab roof. This is made from a piece of 10 thou nickel silver, from the waste area around a sheet of etches. This was formed to the curve by bending around a brass rod, tweaking it until it matched up to the cab front and rear profiles. It is not fully curved and should be horizontal for a bit at the sides. I achieved these flat sections by clamping it in the vice and bending with a steel rule. For the raised beading around the edges, I soldered on lengths of 0.3mm nickel silver wire. You see the roof from the top in the photo below: Although it w
  13. Hopefully I won't disappoint anyone if I reveal that I don't mean interior details. Rather, I've added the spectacle plates, beading and vertical handrails on the outside of the cab. For the spectacles I made use of the etch I made previously for the Banking Tank. I already had a spare copy from which I had "borrowed" some other part during construction, so I thought I would make use of this. On the Banking Tank, the spectacles were part of half-etched overlays for the cab front and back, so I had to cut these out and carefully file/sand around them. Here you see this operation don
  14. I had previously made the cylinders and motion but not actually mounted them to the chassis. After pondering how to do this for some time, I settled on the idea of a removable unit to mount both cylinders. As you see in the first picture, this is made from a piece of thin PCB, which will be horizontal on top of the chassis block, held in place by the body fixing screw. At each end I soldered pieces of brass tube that will hold the previously-made cylinders, increasing them to something like the correct diameter at the same time. Usually the cylinders would be mounted in a vertical plate going
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