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  1. I read the first 130-something pages of this thread before creating this: More details of how it came to be can be found here: And if you want one the files can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4139212 Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and made it possible!
  2. Did something else to it today... ripped out the Fulgurex point motors, and put in a couple of Frog Juicers to allow it to work for the first time ever! I need to replace them with something - at the moment I am thinking a pair of Cobalts, but they will have to be mounted on their side as I only have a frame depth of 44mm. I am sure I can 3d print a crank or something to allow them to work. I did think of using Servos, but looks like they need there own bunch of electronics, and set up, whereas all I read suggests the Cobalts are pretty much fit and use. The adjustment of the Fulgurex wasn't working out, and they were very noisy... the final straw was throwing its own worm wheel off the end of the shaft instead of throwing the point. It went back on, but that's not the point... So if anyone wants a pair of free, used once only, Fulgurex motors, you are welcome...(collection only!). PS Why does wiring have to be neat, and why can't I make it so?
  3. Thread resurrection time... Tried my shunting plank which hasn't been used in a couple of years (probably three)... Wouldn't run - dirty track, and an engine which I believed to have dubious pick-ups anyway (would run ok, but turn the sound on, and it would cut out and die often). Tried it on a rolling road on the layout, and it ran perfectly, with sound. OK, so the track never was as clean as I thought it was then. Looked for what I have to clean it, and could not find my track rubber anywhere, but did find a fibreglass pencil. Now I normally hate this thing - it just puts tiny bits of glass in my fingers, no matter what I do, but it does clean PCBs for soldering beautifully, so I gave it a go. Immediately vacuumed up the layout to try and keep those glass splinters at bay, and wiped over the rail tops with IPA on a cotton bud to be sure. Hey Presto, railway runs like it never has before! I also used a x10 loup to look at the railtop, and see all sorts of things I have never seen before in terms of residual paint, little marks, and scratches. Also at a rail joint a burr that I never felt before, because it is right on the end (I usually "look" for stuff by running my fingernail across it), so that was also filed down. So, apart from those pesky glass splinters (which in fact, this time, haven't troubled me so far), can anyone see any reason not to use the fibreglass pencil? I don't honestly know if the scratches I have were existent, or cause by it... but I would welcome any comment...
  4. I think a trackplan would be a bit grand for this! It is a classic 5,3,3 Inglenook in function, with a head shunt to the right, a single three-way point, the five wagon siding to the front, and the two three wagon sidings to the rear. Attached another couple of pictures below to show a little more:
  5. Do you ever go down one particular alley, and loose all sense of time? I did... Anyway, I eventually modelled, and 3d-printed, my required mineral wagon: So all I have to do now is finish everything else to go around it. How long have I got to go? What do you mean the competition has finished? It's barely been two years! Oh well... should you want a 3d printed mineral wagon for anything, you can find all the files you need on Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4139212 Tref.
  6. Many thanks again - I have gone one step further and started a topic for the Layout here: Tref.
  7. Time to share my Shunting Plank, test-bed, shelf-layout, call it what you will. Started a frightening 12 years ago in 2008, as a "quick" portable layout. I am afraid this is probably about the best over-view of it, taken back in 2017. Progress is slow - I aim to have at least one day a year modelling, and last year I think I failed even to get that! So how come now? Well, I enjoyed sharing a previous (also still unfinished) layout as part of the 2007 layout challenge (Thameside), and I needed some help! See the two missing windows in the picture above? Well RM Web member Teaky, helped me out with those, following my ad in the "Wanted" section, and suggested I could possibly publish some pictures, and some wider shots showing the context. Putting the layout up as a topic seemed to fit the bill there, allow a little more expansion on the subject, and hopefully any feedback might spur me on to get on with it, as it did on Thameside. So here now, is that same building, with those last elusive windows in place: If there is interest I will hopefully be inspired to progress it a bit faster. My pleasure usually comes from working on it rather than operating it - it isn't yet fully operational, and as you can see, photography isn't my strong point either! I look forward to any comment.
  8. Teaky, you are a star!! After I dread to think how many years of hopefully rumaging through boxes under table-tops at model shows, pondering over whether it was time to bite thr bullet snd buy another kit, Teaky has answered my prayers! First World problems I know, but I am so very gratefull. Time for me to go out and do some good in the world. Thank you to all that looked, Best wishes, hope you all had a great Chrismas, and look forward to a Happy New Year. Tref.
  9. Sorry I thought I posted this before, but it would appear not! Well I soon got bored taking it all out of the box to see what I have! lt would appear I have three of the smaller windows left. Unfortunately I sprayed the entire sprue so they are green. Is that a problem for you? As I say, you are welcome to anything you see, or believe may be in the box, I have only really used the main walls and the windows. Many thanks, Tref
  10. Thst woul d be wonderful! I will have to see what I have left, as I did use some of the half-bricked up ones on another building. After work today I can pull out the box and photograph the remaining sprues nd you are welcome to anything you wnt from them! Many thanks, Tref
  11. Many thanks.. I did consider bricking them up, but it just wan't the plan in my head, and it will irk me forever! I did try contacting Kibri a couple of years ago, I cannot remember the exact answer, but suffice to say I am still two windows short of a full set... And so is the building!
  12. As per the title really... Kibri kit No. 9788. I have many unused parts from it to swap too if you are missing or need extra of anything. (And no, it doesn't look like that straight out of the box!) Many thanks for looking, Tref.
  13. Funnily enough I have just been trawling throigh the "0 Gauge and larger" section looking for anything on Gauge 1. The "1" seems to foil the search... I have an old Marklin AC engine somewhere, and a Piko something or other... One day I will do something useful with it. In the meantime I am modelling up a 16t mineral wagon to be 3d printable...
  14. So the Slaters plasticard I picked up measures approximately 300mm x 190mm. Perfect! There are 5 crinkles per 10mm - which I guess scales at around 2 1/2" spacing - a little below the 3" I believe it should be (standard wiggly tin rather than "Big Six"). Close enough for me. I have also recently acquired an airbrush, so I am hoping I can reproduce panel joints by judicious use of that rather than cutting it into individual sheets. So allowing it to fit in the box vertically, I have 150mm tops... which scales at approximately 15'. Is that enough? how high does the doorway need to be? I have a feeling thee may not be enough room for the roller-shutter door I want to include. Also - I wanted the track as hard up to the wall as would be realistic - how far does it have to be away - are there any rules for that? I would assume (dangerous!) just normal loading gauge, but that would be from the internal frame supporting the structure...
  15. Many thanks... Extra wires or find another accessory decoder I guess then!
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