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Emmo

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  • Location
    Nottingham
  • Interests
    British railways, Flying (holder of current fixed wing Pilots Licence), walking, caravans, dramatics (acting), play drums.

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  1. And now... Resoldered the AC wire and I seem to have complete control! However, although it doesn't give any power to the track, the LED lights up when I turn the knob with the R-F switch in the centre neutral position. Is this normal?
  2. Further developments... One of the track wires was soldered in the wrong place. I now have power on the track in both R and F positions with LED illumination, and trains can be controlled with the knob, however, it still illuminates in the central (off) position. I have noticed on of the AC input leads might be shorting to another section of the PC board so I am going to resolver it and then try again. Progress it seems. The other controller on the same panel (it's a dual unit) is totally dead and I've no idea as to why but I only need one, however I'd like to get that working as well if
  3. Didn't know they had a lifetime warranty? I've soldered new wires though, would that matter?
  4. Following on from my earlier posting regarding these controllers, I now have a problem with one of them. Once powered up, with the polarity switch in the centre (normally an off position) the Track LED lights up when I turn the knob, however, there is no power on the track. With the switch positioned in either L or R, the LED fails to light when I turn the knob. I purchased these second hand and the wires on the PC board were a bit of a mess with bad soldering evident, so I have soldered some fresh ones to the same points, however I'm not sure if the ones that were on when I bought the unit we
  5. Thanks Cliff for the clarification. I thought using two off one winding would burn something out, but as you say, shouldn't be a problem on a turntable. Thanks Martin
  6. Thanks Pete and DC, great answers. I'd never thought of using a switch. I think what I will do now is to fit an isolator switch on the turntable controller so I can switch the power feed to it completely off when not in use. Many thanks guys, appreciated. Martin
  7. I have a Gaugemaster dual feedback controller which says on the back 'One controller per transformer winding'. Both these controllers need a 16v AC feed to produce 12v DC output - I want to use one for my track and another just to control the turntable, but my transformer only has one 16v AC output. Will this be safe? I will not be running trains whilst operating the turntable. The advantage of using one of the controllers for the turntable is that it has a reverse polarity switch which will allow me to change turntable direction. Thanks in advance of any assistance with this.
  8. Thanks David, very useful information. Martin
  9. Further to this, when I received the unit, the worms were just catching the edges of the the gear wheels which I thought was not right, so I moved them inwards to be a central connection with the gears. Are they supposed to be at the edge possibly?
  10. Anyone had any experience with these? I have acquired one which is in working order but doesn't run very well. As far as I can tell the gears are slipping, yet when I try and spin the wheels with my fingers, I cannot for the life of me get any slippage between the worms and the gear wheels. If I run it as it is, eventually it will settle down and run perfectly and quite quietly too, but as soon as it's had a rest for a couple of minutes, off we go again back to square one. Any help greatly appreciated, but please don't reply if all you can do is tell me that they are useless units
  11. Well, many thanks indeed guys for solving a problem so quickly on something that was baffling me, not being a wiring expert. There is actually a baseboard join on the passing loop near the TT, where I have placed connectors (this section is removable so I can get into the room). So, what I have done to try things out is to pull out the baseboard connectors and placed a piece of paper between the tracks and voila! Everything works as it should. I said it would be a simple solution to ones who know about these things (not me alas). As I have gone through all the trouble to introduce
  12. Further...I can't get into siding with power feed No.2 or 3 now either! Martin
  13. ...Please look at the diagram in landscape format to understand my indications. Thanks Martin
  14. When I built this layout as an end to end, I got invaluable help on this forum on how to wire it up, where the rail breaks should be etc. It all worked rather well, and now we are in indefinite lockdown I thought what better way to spend it and proceeded to extend the layout into a tail chaser. I can run trains round now, as well as the long passing loop that runs past the turntable, but I am getting shorts when trying to get into sidings such as the one leading to the TT (bear in mind this was a dead end originally and caused no short getting into it), the siding spur bottom right
  15. I have a spare controller actually which I could wire up to the TT motor, in fact it's a very small unit from China on a PCB about 25mm square and works very well, and, as you say, as long as I don't turn it round to it's full movement, should be ok. I didn't want to use the main controller for the layout as I want to have trains running as I'm operating the TT. I agree, a slower TT speed would be more realistic anyway and probably achieved at just 3v. The reason I wanted to step down from 12v to 6v was purely to use a totally separate PSU to control the TT and I only have a 12v one. Basically
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