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Jenny Emily

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Everything posted by Jenny Emily

  1. They really are exquisite. Without anything to differentiate the size they are of a level of detail that would make you think they are much larger. size comparison:
  2. Thanks. I’m not great at electronics and making such things though it is a good suggestion. I need, by my calculation, only 11 of the pin connections to match up with a Zen Buddha decoder.
  3. Thanks. Yes I saw those, though was hoping to avoid them because, as you say, Heljan have said the warranty is void if I do that. I am considering whether to insert metal pins into the appropriate points of the socket itself if I can get panel nails of the right thickness then solder wires to those. Do you know anywhere I can get a diagram showing which pin on the socket is for what?
  4. Is it possible to insert the decoder in accidentally back to front?
  5. Sadly none of those suggested options are for allowing other decoders to use the XL socket in the loco. The XL socket is a square of female pin headers into which the pins of an XL decoder would plug. what I need is the means to attach a conventional screw terminal type decoder into a loco that has an XL socket - not provide a breakout from an XL decoder. Hard wiring cannot be employed as it would involve ripping the circuit board out of the loco invalidating any warranty. I cannot find an XL Lokpilot decoder, hence the need for an adapter to connect a standard screw terminal decoder in.
  6. I’ve just got one of the new Heljan O gauge class 26 models. It has an XL decoder socket, but I cannot find anything other than expensive sound decoders to fit this. I cannot stress how much I am not interested in fitting sound to this loco. can anyone point me in the direction of a non sound decoder to fit this socket or - better still - a break out board that allows me to fit a Zen Buddha decoder? thanks in advance.
  7. I would agree. I’m going off what I was told at Warley.
  8. Incidentally, there only ever was one set of tooling despite what someone wrongly claimed earlier in this thread. The photos KR first shared was a test shot from partially finished tooling. I learnt that as it is easy to remove metal from the moulds but not to put it back if you take too much off so at various points they do a test EP to better judge where the process is up to. That was what that original picture was of. The current EP as seen in the video is the same tooling but with more metal removed.
  9. my video of all the EPs and samples including the 4DD - I had access to all four cars including the two with test shots of the glazing:
  10. From the video I’ve filmed for next Wednesday. All six livery samples:
  11. From a forthcoming video. Sat in front of me I have an EP for a full four car set.
  12. I’ve just been sent livery sample pictures. Actual model en route, but will not get here in time to be on display at Warley.
  13. Yes. They are easy enough to undo either with an appropriate sized nut spinner or a pair of pliers. The rods are relatively easy to flex if needed and can be gently bent to stop them catching on the cranks.
  14. One of the HTO hoppers has ‘good luck reading this’ or similar on one plate if you view under close magnification.
  15. I’ve been doing repairs on returned Fells, and your teardown is more thorough than I’ve needed to do! Incidentally, I don’t work for KRModels despite what poorly informed people think. I know Mike, and offered to go through the returned locos to see what could be repaired. it is possible to lift the keeper plate without disconnecting it from the model: undo the six screws and carefully lever it up without stressing the soldered wires. This then allows pickup adjustment and even replacement of wheelsets. I’ve been through all the returned models, and there were only a handful that weren’t fixed as they were broken for parts. Given the full production is in the thousands, the return level is quite low. most common reasons for return were actually poorly adjusted pickups. Next most common was loose brake rigging. Wheels moving on the axles causing locking up accounted for surprisingly few. Most of these were caused by quartering being slightly out on outer axles and it is easy to pull wheels off the axles in situ and adjust the quartering. Very few models had duff bushes causing a wheel to spin on the axle - I harvested good wheels from donor models to fix others in this instance. I suggest if you are concerned at a wobbly wheel then try adding loctite to the bush. I’ve filmed a video guide to fixing loose brake rigging and adjusting pickups in minutes and it will be uploaded in the coming week or so.
  16. A quick jolly around Wear Yard to see how well they run (actually really well). They are fully functioning test samples - the torpedo is controlled via DCC to rotate in either direction on command. I am told a non functioning DC model will also be available.
  17. None with sound. If you want to fit sound, the speaker would need to go in the cab; there is room. I use the space on three for a DCCconcepts stay alive and it fits just fine below the window line.
  18. I did a video on all three releases. Peco have done a great job with these.
  19. I have four 07s and they all run extremely well. Not had any issues with these, nor the 05s. Both classes have really smooth mechanisms.
  20. my video on the forthcoming G5
  21. Here is the circuit board inside. Speaker is underneath.
  22. I will look to check when filming. Only one of the samples is a working loco; the rest are empty.
  23. I have the G5 samples on loan for a video I’ll be filming:
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