Graham_M

That's a new one on me 30801. But it got me checking up on smart magnets and polymagnets. Some interesting stuff out there which might eventually have applications for our hobby!

That's a pretty tall order, ianLMS. Modern permanent magnets are so much stronger than any comparable electromagnet, and I know of no foreseeable way to "turn off" their magnetism. Even though I am researching the possibility of using twin magnets to get around the "non-reversing" polarity issue, (see my previous posts), I still see the Kadee system as the best available if magnetic uncoupling is required.

Hi, I started modelling NER locos and rolling stock many years ago. I bought quite a few archive drawings when the Oxford Publishing Co. were selling copies. This collection is now at the (National) Railway Museum, however in the current circumstances I don't know how possible it is to order copies. Here is a link to the lists: https://www.railwaymuseum.org.uk/research-and-archive/further-resources/catalogues#drawing-lists I may have a few that I would be willing to pass on if any might be of interest. Good luck!

An update to my experiment with dual magnets. The partially stripped guitar strings pass through slots cut into the end frame of the bogie and are hooked through holes in a swing bar made from a servo arm which is pivoted on a small wood screw. This should keep the magnets balanced while allowing reverse curves to be negotiated. Just need to do a few more coaches then test!

I was hoping that there would be enough flexibility in the couplings. However, although I don't have many sharp curves, I am doubtful about this. I am working on producing a more flexible connection method, hopefully by using thinner wire and having a loop in it to increase movement without too much stress. I will post updates as I progress!

I have noticed recently in the model press, YouTube, etc, an upsurge in interest in magnetic coupling systems. One in particular caught my attention, the REE XB series which is manufactured in France. The problem with some others is the use of single magnets fixed to a shaft which terminates in a NEM connector. With this system, there is a need to have opposite polarity at each end of the vehicles, which means the vehicles can only operate in one orientation. The REE type uses twin opposing pairs of magnets (which are also able to provide a two pole electrical connection between vehicles). Provided the magnet pairs are always fitted the same way round, they will always couple, whatever the lengthwise orientation of the vehicles. I wanted a system which would ideally still allow conventional couplings (including 3 link) to operate. I proposed using pairs of magnets separated by a distance either side of the standard centrally mounted coupling. I also wanted the couplings to be ‘disguised’ as part of the inter-vehicle connecting pipes, something I did with a fixed rake 3 car DMU, but using 1mm electrical plugs and sockets. I came up with the idea of using bronze wound guitar strings as a flexible but stable support for the magnets. As an experiment I used 2mm diameter by 1mm length magnets, superglued into a short length of brass tubing which was then crimped over the short length of guitar string. The advantage of crimping rather than soldering is that the string can be screwed and unscrewed, as the windings form a right hand screw thread. The string is then bent to 90 degrees in a gentle curve to represent vacuum or air pipes. This end can then be screwed into a suitable hole under the vehicle. I found that on most coaches, the bogie frame is of sufficient thickness to accept a 1.4mm drill for the .056 inch guitar string. Initial results are encouraging. I am hoping that the 1mm thick magnets will be sufficiently strong, however it is always possible to fit thicker or stronger magnets if need be. I might try using slightly thinner guitar strings if I feel I need more flexibility in the coupling. The ones I used are about the thickest normally used for acoustic guitar (medium gauge phosphor bronze). The photos show the couplings fitted to coaches with both tension lock and Kadee couplings.

I have tried every method in the book, but now I am building a layout which I need to be portable, this is the method I am using now. For pointwork (soldered copperclad sleepers) and for baseboard ends and other important bits, I obtained from China via eBay some very fine screws. These are 1.4mm x 10mm Phillips head self tappers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322993326449 at £4.99 for 1000! I drill through the sleepers into the plywood baseboard 1.2mm, then open up the holes in the sleepers to 1.5mm. A good watchmaker's screwdriver is essential to drive the screws home. For the rest of the trackwork I use railroad spikes, pre-drilling holes of about 0.6mm. After soldering thin dropper wires and ballasting with PVA or Pledge I smother the whole lot with a brown+black matt acrylic paint mix. This sets hard enough to hold the track in place but allows lifting, which is best done with a thin 6" rule eased under the sleepers.

Hello Guys, I have been building the Falsgrave section of Scarborough Central as it seemed to fit my requirements for a portable layout which would fit into a room in my house extension. The section modelled is approximately from Londesborough Road Station buildings to the Belgrave Terrace bridge, in the period 1950-1960. I have used wooden dowel rod and paper clips for the point operation, with associated microswitches for route switching. I have tried to model the trackwork as closely as possible, which was no easy task, but I am very happy with the results. Track is C&L with pointwork built up with soldered copper clad sleepering. However, running possibilities are extremely limited in the present location and I am intending to move the layout into two adjoining sheds, which will allow me to use one fiddle yard more or less permanently attached with another one attached on the outside when weather permits! A novel and extremely useful feature of the layout construction is the fact that the two main baseboards are bolted together but hinged longitudinally. This allows me to lift the whole front section into a vertical position, so giving easy access to the underside with all the rods, cranks and wiring easily accessible. I have attached a few photos to illustrate. Any questions, ask away!

I don't believe conductivity is an issue with stainless steel rail as the difference ought to be negligible. What would concern me is the difficulty of making a reliable electrical connection, especially as you cannot solder the stuff.

~Yes, I suppose you could call it wireless control. I remember when wireless and radio meant the same thing! However, I find it convenient in the absence of a workable on-board battery system which will fit in a tank loco, even in 7mm.

Here is a diagram of the basic setup. Control overview.pdf

Stuart, the loco is still powered from the track. The control unit is remotely controlled and stays in place, connected to the track circuits through normal switches. It just means that I can wander about with a hand-held controller. In every other way it is a traditional dc system.

May I share with members the system that I have been using on my outdoor 7mm DC layout for the past 10 years or so? I use a home - built solid state inertia controller which has four basic operations: accelerate, decelerate, direction 1, direction 2. Direction can only be switched when speed is at or near zero. This controller is coupled to a radio control receiver taken out of a cheap toy r/c car, the interface being through DIL reed relays. The transmitter unit has only two two-way switches and has more than enough range to control track voltage and direction down the 20 metres or so of my garden. The receiver is battery powered and sits on the inside wall of my shed, with a wire through to an external antenna. The connection from receiver to controller is via standard multi pin D-connectors. Not quite the same as true on-board radio control, but provided the track is kept clean then it works just as well! Graham, North Yorkshire

Hi, I am new to this forum, but I feel I can contribute a little concerning machine tools. The first thing I would say to anyone thinking of buying a lathe or any other machine would be - don't underestimate the size of machine you need. There is very little that a small machine can do that a big one can't. I have used a Unimat 3 for turning cast iron 7mm scale driving wheels, but what a struggle! Overheating motor, broken drive belts and aching fingers from winding the tiny screw handles. Some time ago I was fortunate to be given an old Drummond/Myford M-Type lathe. It was very worn, with about 1/2 turn of backlash on the screws (I think it had been used for war work in WW2). It was duly stripped down and the bed scraped. Many new accessories were added and it now does good work. OK, a new Myford would be nice but I can't yet afford 3+ grand for the basic machine. I am at present using a Sealey GDM92B Pillar Bench Drill, which is OK but a bit rattly. I replaced the chuck with a keyless Chinese job which has improved set up times. Go for the biggest machine you can afford/fit in your workshop, and remember, when you eventually do buy the best, you'll only cry once! Graham