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Sylvian Tennant

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Everything posted by Sylvian Tennant

  1. It was the Revell semi-matt. It was okay for this project but it is a little glossy.
  2. A commission I did about a year ago for a lady's son. He wanted the LT 150 Prairie tank but with "Metropolitan 1" on the tanks instead. It was a bit of a ###### to finish off (possibly due to bad planning on my part) but the results speak for themselves . This is the overall process in pictures. It was a bit of a ###### to finish off (possibly due to bad planning on my part) but the results speak for themselves .
  3. There were a few things I forgot to post a while back that I had done for other people so I'm hoping to catch up on this. Recently I was given a Class 08 (well I say recently I must have had it for the best part of a year). It was in a slight state of disrepair and had been bought second hand. I was told to replace the ladders and front steps as they had either been broken or broken off. there wa also a missing sandbox which needed replacing. All that finally required was to weather and I was specifically told to not over weather... make it look new but used. The cus
  4. I;m making a J27 using an old scratch built body on a Jinty chassis. Truth be told - I didn't realise you could have done that!
  5. For some reason I started on this last night ... I think it was a Scratchbuilt J27 which another dickie X04 motor and dated chassis. Like the G5 it may have seen many owners and i think compared to any later offers may be slightly out of scale but overall it looks like a J27 and that's all that really matters to me as I think I can finish up with something that looks good. The chassis is now a Bachmann Jinty which we undergo some visual mods to look like a J27 under frame. I'v had to cut a fair bit from under the boiler to shoehorn the chassis and take to it and yes, unfortun
  6. Nice work - I've tended to repaint my models with Halfords especially priming but also using black frequently - but have found it will need several light coats to leave a good finish. Brush marks are always a bit of a nightmare but I can't see anything wrong with it. Have you varnished it? Pledge multi-surface wax might add a smooth consistent finish. The ghosting of the GWR isn't always a bad thing (as I've seen mentioned could be a quick repaint when BR took over) but as been mentioned preparing the surface by light sanding will help the paint stick and any transfers disappear under the
  7. I require a motor to fit onto a Bachmann Jinty chassis. It needs to be smaller in diameter than the can motor Bachmann use but the same length and shaft size. Kind regards
  8. Just a quickie to say I've started cracking on with a couple of new projects. This year will mainly be tank engines as I have none updated so far and since finished the Gresley coaches I may need venture into other projects for the variety. Currently in the works are a G5, which I think is Nucast originally. Built by a member of my old club and handed to me as some sort of sixth hand gift. TBH the original motor was a Triang X04 motor which I think has seen it's best days. So I'm going to open out the chassis and try and a fit a high level gear box with Mashima motor. I also need som
  9. It really depends on what you want to get out of the hobby. A few years back - when reintroducing myself into the hobby and strapped for cash I would have given a railroad or tender drive model some serious thought when considering improvements. It might be something I wish to do as I've seen some nice models made out of them. However they are still very toy like and compared to later offerings so if you're after a closer physical representation then the later models fair better.
  10. Cheers for the heads up - truth be told that wouldn't be too bad for me as 5' 2" is closer to what I'd need than the 5' anyway - as long as they don't all vary between 4'6 and 6'8"! Okay I think scalelink sound like an option - in fact if I'm not mistaken I may have some for my Q6 tender (Though God know's how I bought them in the first place - it might have been Railex NE) and they are doing an alright job with the tender pick ups. Save the fact I almost melted the cutting off the pinpoints.
  11. Has anyone had any experience with Scale Link wheels ? they look more readily available that Markits(Romfords) and the largest ones (20mm) are the same size as the one previously employed on my G5.
  12. Ahh jockstraps! sorry no forego! bypass forget - not use - delete were applicable
  13. I think that's sorted it then - the motor finally packed in the other day so a high level gear box and Mashima motor it is. I'm going to forego the live chassis technique and have all wheels insulted. I've burred out the opening in the chassis so it should accommodate the small of the HL gear boxes. So now the question begs where can I easily get some Romford wheels in both 21mm and 12mm diameter? I've had a look online but can't really find much and I'd like to use as much of the original components as possible (axels and coupling rods) - hence why I've chosen Romford.
  14. I've give a few of those a try - it is an old motor and set of gears so I'm putting my money on it being magnetising or a disjointed mesh but's just an educated guess. The loco body itself (as it's in a state of revitalisation) hasn't been screwed on and I've left the screws for the motor loose too to see if that was the cause but low and behold it's still the same. I think once I've got the money I think it would be easier in the long run to rebuild the chassis using a High Level gear box and motor as one is doing impeccable work in my Q6. It's currently using (as mentioned) live chassis
  15. I've had it working with the body on a couple of times. Most of the time however it just stalls. You switch it in the direct it wants to go and you get the buzzing - then when you apply power the buzzing get's quieter. I have modified the chassis using brass components but it's no shorting - just refusing to budge. I will say this too - it works better going backwards than forwards currently too - it's sightly faster and generally works better in that direction. Hmm weak magnet - I'l give that a try tonight.
  16. Hello I am currently working on a Nucast G5 that was given to me by a friend. He there was a lot of work to do but I was more than happy to have a bash at. It looks to me like a live chassis system for pick ups and uses X04 motor. I've cleaned wheels up and they're free running. I've cleaned the motor up and that works a treat. When I connect the whole thing up I seem to have problems - sometimes it works okay, other times I doesn't, I've seen the motor start up okay and then gradually lose power, if I put the body on it 9 times out of 10 it struggles to start or not budge at
  17. Why thank you Unfortunately not - I don't think I've even met him before unless it was a brief passing as an exhibition. His work is brilliant - I'm a big admirer of N Gauge modelling.
  18. Here Tom. The only modifications to the technique I made was to use Pledge with klear as I could find Humbrol Clear for love nor money and Railmatch Roof Dirt & Frame Dirt (10:1 ratio in favour of roof dirt) instead of the black washes.
  19. Sorry to reanimate a dead thread. but I've just finished modifying some Hornby Railroad coaches - two of which were finished din weathered teak.
  20. Sylvian Tennant

    Silk Purse?

    Finally they're here! Based on an image I've found of a D49 on a local train. Save this time - I have Saltburn's Ivatt 4MT to hand. The weathering was basically rail match roof dirt and frame dirt - with a ratio on favour of the roof dirt. I wanted to try something different from my umbral and I think it's paid off. Apart from the end corridor connectors which were MJT - the central ones are scratch built using the MJT ones. built with 20 thous plasticard, black paper, some thread with the weather sheet made of out small square sections of black bin liner. The on
  21. I've been away for a while, mainly due to personal tribulations, moving house, finishing uni for the year and trying to find a job to maintain our overheads. However this has not entirely stopped me from modelling when we finally managed to settle down. I now have a room all to myself to model and a garden (of which you may soon see some railway related activity once finances and time improve). I last left you with my updating of some Hornby Railway Gresley stock. I finally managed get to a position where they are beginning to come together. The technique I have follow mainl
  22. Apologies for bringing up a long since passed on post. But I recently discovered this image. http://www.railwaymagazine.co.uk/news/steam-mgrs
  23. Love it, the Constitution refit, my all time favourite design.
  24. can I just ask - is this what the packaging looks like now? This is very confusing as the packaging and name is seemingly always changing... http://www.mysupermarket.co.uk/sainsburys-price-comparison/Household_Cleaning/Pledge_Multisurface_Wax_750ml.html?TrackingCode=701.hJ7zblki4EuAeOiWH0-ttg
  25. Sylvian Tennant

    Teak update

    Just a quick update on my Hornby Teak conversion project. The bodies are now complete. I've drilled the holes to accept MJT handrails and grab handles, added roof vents from Lanarkshire models, and roof handrails. Toilet pipes and emergency brake pipes. I've also removed the gangways to later be replaced by some scratch built and MJT concertinas and glued the ends to the bodies removing filling and sanding down the joints between them. Hope you're all having a lovely weekend.
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