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Sylvian Tennant

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Everything posted by Sylvian Tennant

  1. I think she's mostly sorted out now. *hopes* currently the chassis is soldered, painted and meshed together and she's running as good as I can get her, the oly other problem is the pick up which I'm going to add another set in the tender to improve the running.
  2. Some really nice work happening there. I ave complement you on the Thomas Layout too `
  3. Ah okay, cheers Heather. I did seem logical (being austerities and the general appearance) that they would just have the bin lid method but I've seen (semi-distant) pictures that prove otherwise.
  4. Hi chaps, I'm working on a Bachmann WD of which I'd like to finish with it's water filler cap open. As simple as this may seem, I would like to make sure I'm doing the right thing so does anyone know or have pictures of the filler cap open at all? Cheers
  5. Hello, hi, good evening, who are you! Ah well never mind, you're here now and I suppose I should talk to you. Well, enough of these commissions and imaginative what if's, something relatively real now, for me. remember that Dave Alexander Q6 that I was relegating to the side due to my overly pessimistic opinion of doing something completely heinous to cause it to go wrong (of which I'm eternally shackled to) Well somehow it has managed to please the God's enough to work! So far I only have the chassis built but that is more or less complete saved some slight tweaks wi
  6. as predicted, just when you think you're safe. Though it running nicely with the body attached I think I'm messed up the pickups as when I fitted them it wouldn't run. I'm thinking I've made them too short and without any springing which in turn prevents the electrical pick up to the motor. I'm going to have another pop at them and will get back to you.
  7. I will do, I've tried fitting the body on loose and worked it and don't seem to be getting much of a problem however, these things arise when you think you're safe.
  8. Sorted it, I think i screwed the motor on too tight to the gear box, a slight teak and it's running beautifully either way. Cheers for the advice, it's what led me to my discovery.
  9. brilliants, I'll get on to that tonight and see how it comes along.
  10. Whilst it's turning, it slows at a point during the wheels revolution.
  11. Hello I'm currently building a Dave Alexander Q6 and I'm on the way to completing the chassis. I have installed the motor (Mashima 1024) and the (High Level 1:80) gear box. Testing it out I have found that running forward is near perfect, however, reverse running is quite uneven when running slow. I have currently run it with axle only, uncoupled and finally with the couple rods attached but the results are always the same - perfect forward running but uneven reverse running. As I increase the power running improves but as I do plan to have some reverse running as prototypical speeds
  12. I was given these little Hornby fellows by a friend to paint up, I think one set is for his "Black Prince" or "Cock of the North" 9F (I can't remember which!) and the chaps in green at the front (which isn't that prevalent because my of cr*ppy camera phone)for his GWR project, which I can only describe as a bit of a beast. I also gave a quick slap up of the accessories he gave me too. Next up, my other rates rather knackered Bachmann 08, but firstly, I want to get my Q6 chassis motorised and working before I crack on with that.
  13. RT models http://www.rtmodels.co.uk/rt_models_022.htm
  14. I've managed to finally complete my BR Blue 8F, hopefully more locos shall be on the way in the future. Personally speaking, i would have liked to have seen this happen.
  15. I would not expect any less on the question of my sanity mate! She's a bit of a beat I must admit. I all I ask is, if you're going to ruin history, and shred the rivet counter's nerves... do it in the most accurate and well modelled way possible
  16. So, it's done. I have managed to finally create a monster. I messed with time an history and it brought me to this place. The dark and brutal world of British mainline steam in the 1980's. Many have scoffed that it was far fetched, and yes it because frankly steam didn't survive on the mainline after 1968 as a revenue earning arm of BR. But it's nice to dream. but anyway. After a major electical issue involving rewriting the driving wheels to the tender to get it working again it is complete. I promised a brief story on my world at 988 193 so here it is.
  17. The good news is I've managed to hardwire the loco and tender together and sort of get it working. But the bad news is the copper wire i've used is to very flexible so it is creating a lot of friction on the wheels and also not very springy which is still causing some jolty movements. Can anyone put forward a suggestion for a decent gauge or wire to use or anything the will be light and flexible?
  18. Just a quick question about the placement on air braking on preserved locomotives in the UK. I understand a lot of it is out of sight for aesthetic purposes but where would they keep a lot of the equipment such as the airtanks and westinghouse pumps? The prime example is 76079 on the NYMR and also the Black 5's and A4 as well as other types allowed on the mainline.
  19. That is pretty on the ball mate.
  20. problem i have encountered... I've tried soldering a piece of wire from the motor unit to the loco chassis block and the solder just will not take to it. Also I disassembled the loco chassis and tried different bits to the piece of wire I have now attached to the tender, the wheels pick up, the chassis block picks up the brass nut and screw pick up i believe even the drawbar picks up.... but put them together and nothing.
  21. sorry I have a computer which autocorrects badly and i never check my message before posting. I checked the wheels to make sure they were correct, i found out elsewhere about the pickups work for Hornby tender drive. I am suspecting it is the drawbar now more than anything. I modified it from the original design via the comet models way of drilling out the read of the chassis block and replacing the screw on the drawbar with an brass 8BA 1/2 inch screw. Unfortunately the spring had to take some modification too as it was slightly damaged in the process so it has been soldered to
  22. Sorry I'll try to rephrase them. I've taken the chassis apart and put it back together to see if I can identify a problem but everything seemed to be correct and in it's place. Originally I thought I could feel an electrostatic charge in the chassis block when I touched it, believing that there was some issue with the wheel connections. However this isn't the case. I thinking that it maybe something to do with the drawback connecting the tender to the locomotive.
  23. I'll give it another try but so far I've cleaned off a fair bit.
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