Jump to content

Erudhalion

Members
  • Posts

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Piacenza, Italy
  • Interests
    GWR
    BR(W) Steam
    00 and 009 gauges

    Non railway related stuff:

    Vintage Aircraft
    Physics
    Music
    Sailing

Recent Profile Visitors

327 profile views

Erudhalion's Achievements

44

Reputation

  1. After a mere seven months later, I have almost finished the first of the two PO wagons. The lettering on the side was not too difficult, although one side took two goes. I had real trouble getting nice sharp corners on the letters, especially the wagon number, but I think it looks all right from normal viewing distances. The spacing and shape of some letters is a bit wobbly, but looking at the photos in the S&W books, the lettering on various wagons with nominally the same livery is less consistent than I imagined, so my inaccuracies turned out to be prototypical (luckily). The lettering on the wagon side was assembled one letter at a time with HMRS methfix transfers, which is how I discovered that acrylics are alcohol soluble. It took about a week to letter the first side, but by starting all three lines of text at the same time I was able to cut down the time significantly for the second side. This lettering is in keeping with the rest of the wagon when it comes to regular spacing and correct alignment, as I found the process rather fiddly. The transfers on the solebars are by Fox. I am a bit uncertain about how to weather this wagon. Pre WWII PO wagons seem to be in unexpectedly good nick in many photos, so I think I'll keep it relatively light. S&W vol. 5 has a photo dated 1908 of a rake of PO wagons in Lydney with what appear to be almost spotless sides but considerably dirtier running gear, which struck me as a bit odd. While I think about that, I have started lettering the next PO wagon. As you can see, the lettering is still very much in the wibbly-wobbly phase, I hope I'll be able to tidy everything up and add the proper black shading to the letters. The completed wagon side should read PATES & Co / college coal exchange/ 22 Cheltenham, plus the various "Return empty to" and so on, which I'll do with transfers again. I have also painted the shunting truck and added some transfers. I think I will have to be a bit inventive with the HMRS GWR transfer sheet to assemble the writing on the side of the toolbox. My plan is to use this as a conversion wagon between coupling types, but I an not sure whether I want S&W on one end and tension lock on the other; or S&W and 3 link, considering the amount of brake detail I'd have to remove to fit a tension lock. Lots to think about, but at least things are moving again.
  2. I don't really have much experience with enamels, so I can't really say. The medium does help a lot with the surface tension, the results are similar to using a normal acrylic wash.
  3. Thanks! That is going to be really useful. Is that photo in one of the S&W books?
  4. I've only started using it fairly recently. I usually do around 50/50 water and medium if I want a thin wash, I find it avoids "tide marks" as the paint is drying. That is what I used for overall grime wash on the crane from the previous couple of posts. For the light gray on the wagon I put a drop of medium and mixed it with the gray on my wet palette to thin it a bit.
  5. So, things have been moving along, although not at a particularly fast pace. First, the loco coal wagon from the last post. It is not done yet, I've added a bit of rust and wear. The excellent pictures from Mikkel's blog (https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/11531-detail-hunting-at-didcot/) were invaluable for reference. It is all still a bit raw, it needs a wash of general grime to tone things down a bit. I'm reasonably happy with how it is coming on, but I'm not 100% satisfied with the overall look. Maybe once it is all toned down I'll be happier. I'm not entirely sure what causes the lighter discoloured patches in the paint, but I tried to replicate the look with some thinned light gray (Vallejo glaze medium and water). I've also used some soot from my parent's chimney to detail the interior, I've got a large jar full of the stuff I meant to use to make pigments for violin varnish, but it seems to work pretty well as a substitute for real coal dust. Unfortunately the glue, water and a drop of washing up liquid has left a mess on the floor of the wagon. I'm hoping a bit of matt varnish and a black wash will make it look better. The next batch of models has also been primed. As I don't have access to spraying gear where I am, I decided to use a brush. Although it doesn't look great, it think it will work out all right. Pictured are a small office building (free with an issue of Railway Modeller from a couple of years back), and three Cambrian Model Rail wagons: a shunter's truck to dia. M4, a 12T end door 7-plank and a 10T fixed end 7-plank, both Gloucester designs. I plan to use the shunter's truck as a conversion wagon between tension-lock and S&W couplings. I assumed there weren't any in the Forest of Dean, but while leafing through The Severn & Wye Railway Vol. 5, I came across a picture of a 16xx heading to Lydney docks from the yard with a shunter's truck (looks like an M3, judging from the upper handrail), so it seems like at least one was allocated to the Forest area. I'll have to see if I can find out what the lettering on the toolbox sides was. Failing that, I can make something up. The kit has a lot of good detail, especially the various shafts and brackets associated with the DC brake gear. I haven't fitted any couplings yet, so I might have to remove some of these bits to make room, but I will try and keep it to a minimum. I've also base coated the two wagons: the 12T in black, and the 10T in red. The idea here is to do a bit of miniature signwriting: the black one will be a Cannop colliery wagon, while I plan to finish the red one as one of Pates', a coal merchant from Cheltenham who bought coal from Foxes Bridge colliery. There are photos of both in the S&W railway books. I have no idea if I will actually manage this. The Cannop livery is as simple as it gets: CANNOP in large, sans-serif unshaded white letters exactly four planks high and the wagon number in the lower left corner. I have a couple of sheets of HMRS PO wagon transfers for the smaller script stuff. The Pates livery, on the other hand is more elaborate: for a start the letters are shaded black, there is also more writing in general on the wagon, some of which I might be able to do with transfers, but I'll have to see. Another issue is that the transfers are an off-white creamy colour rather than white, but maybe once the whole wagon is weathered it won't be as obvious, I'll have to see about that. Anyway, I hope it is feasible.
  6. You've jinxed it now, I've spent the evening scrabbling around the floor failing to find one of the match truck's buffer collars And I've just noticed the chassis wobbles...
  7. For the time being, I don't really have any alternatives to ordering online and paying up. Once travel to the UK is a possibility again, I'll hopefully be able to go to an actual shop.
  8. Look at that, two posts less than a year apart! The crane is now very very nearly finished. As I hope you can see, I've added the jib retaining chain and fashioned a hook for it with a piece of guitar string a and a tiny scrap of plasticard. The chain is not quite as long as I would have hoped, but not so short as to cause problems running (as far as I can tell using the three bashed up pieces of old Lima track I have at hand). I managed to damage the match truck's S&W coupling, so I've prised it off pending repairs. I must say, although it is far from perfect, I am very happy with how it has turned out. I don't think I've ever built a kit as intricate, but I've managed to finish it off as I wanted. The next item on the small coffee table/workbench is a loco coal wagon (diagram N30). I've gone for a slightly darker shade of gray (7:1 black to white as opposed to the crane's 7:2), the idea being that this would be a fairly new wagon. The plan is to give it a light weathering, mainly grime and coal dust. I need to scour the internet and the wagon bible for some reference pictures. During the week my order from Cambrian managed to find its way through customs, so now I have five mineral PO wagons and a shunter's truck to build. The kits themselves are (as usual) pretty good, but one minor disappointment is that it seems that at least some of the wheels are quite wobbly. I've seen from other threads on this site that it appears this is not unheard of with Alan Gibson wheels, but I wasn't overjoyed when I found out. Still, at least they look nice, I suppose. I've started building the shunters truck, which, although maybe not the likeliest item of Forest of Dean rolling stock, I plan to fit with an S&W coupling on one end and a tension lock on the other, as I have a fair bit of RTR stock of various vintages which I might want to use. The S&W coupling should also let me install most of the DC brakegear's various brackets and shafts. The toolbox is full of lead fishing weights, but I'm not certain if that will be enough, I'll weigh it today and see. I generally try to reach 30g with these short wheelbase wagons. A bit more would be better, but so far I've had trouble finding places to put enough lead. Anyway, progress!
  9. Well, another few years have gone by since the last post. The Lydney station project has ground to a halt, but the general plan has remained the same: I'm trying to work on smaller projects I can manage with the space and money available. I've decided to focus on Forest of Dean and roughly 1920s as a time period. I have braved the customs of the post-Brexit world and ordered some bits and bobs from Wizard and Cambrian, some of which have turned up. The Cambrian GWR 6-ton hand crane I assembled years ago is first on the list: it has finally been painted, filled with lead in the toolboxes, balance weight and under the chassis, and fitted with 3mm S&W couplings on the outer ends, and 3 link (crane) and instanter (match truck) between the two. Special thanks to KNP of this parish for inspiration and encouragement as regards the match truck lettering. Next it needs weathering and the jib retaining chain attaching. The crane itself is basically finished, I've managed to make quite posable, the jib can be raised or lowered and the crane can be rotated. I drilled some tiny holes in the chain drum so it can be rotated (with the help of a small piece of wire). I also had to fashion a new hook (plasticard, a fishing weight and a piece of violin E string), which is removable so you can thread the pulley for double chain lifting on. Over the years I lost the original hook, as well as the pon securing the crane body to the chassis, and while painting managed to break all four buffers off, so I turned some new brass ones with the help of a pillar drill and some needle files (very high tech). Now all I need is for Italian customs to get their act together and get the wheels I ordered to me. Next up (in hopefully less than a couple of years) a GWR loco coal wagon.
  10. Thanks for the replies. KNP's crane was the one that got me wondering. The lettering on his match truck doesn't match the "standard" pattern I've seen in Atkins, Beard & Tourret, or on the 12 ton crane at Didcot, so that got me wondering. I presume that there must be other pictures around I have missed.
  11. After many years of it sitting assembled but unpainted in a cabinet, I have finally got round to finishing off my Cambrian GWR hand crane. The crane itself is basically done, but the match truck need transfers, and here I ran into a problem: I can't find a photo of the match truck in GWR livery, not even in the GWR wagon bible, which has drawings of a different wagon with full-length toolboxes (diagram L14). All other GWR match trucks in the book have G Match Truck W and the number painted on the sides of the toolboxes, but I have seen a couple of these kits with the name of the location painted on the sides of the toolboxes and small G W on the single plank which formes the sides of the wagon. Can anybody shed any light on the matter? Thanks in advance.
  12. Well, that was rather a long break. I had started preparing some old baseboards for my planned Forest of Dean inspired layout, but work ground to a halt a few years ago. The boards are still there, but I haven't got the space to work on them any more. In the intervening years, I have been to the read Forest of Dean as a working volunteer on the DFR, so have had a chance to look around and be inspired. What I've decided to do is build a few FoD inspired structures, both to get to grips with scratchbuilding and potentially to have something to use on the layout, when I get a chance to work on it again. As my modelling budget is pretty much non-existent, I've decided to use the piles of humble Packeto-Cornflacko and Backo-Ringbinder-Refillblocko that O have accumulated over the years. First up is the station building, which is a 4mm version of the original wooden S&W Lydney Junction station building. The S&W books by Ian Pope & Co have proved invaluable, as vol. 1 has a full set of 4mm scale drawings. The plan is to have full interiors and lights. The main structure is made of two layers of BRR (which is a fairly high quality card, light gray and about 1mm thick), which is coincidentally about scale thickness. The first real hurdle was how to replicate the rusticated weatherboarding on the outside. After a few experiments, I settled on strips of medium weight paper. Among my father's vintage technical drawing equipment I found a machine for drawing equally-spaced lines, which I used to mark out the strips and guidelines on the sides themselves. Next I need to cut out window and door apertures and cut the 6 internal walls (5 across, one lomgitudinal separating the gents toilets from the ladies) and the ceilings. Not sure if the original had flat ceilings, but I need them for rigidity. Unfortunately popping over to Parkend to have a look at and original building is not really an option (unless 1600km counts as "popping").
  13. Update: I have drawn up 1:1 plans of the scenic part, some modifications to the track plan have been made, it now looks something like this: I've moved one siding from coming off the single slip to coming off the point on the siding that runs next to the 009 track (if that makes sense). I discovered that in its old location it didn't allow much width for the engine shed I want to put there. Also, I would have had to take the siding across the baseboard joint to have enough length. Like this all of the station is on one board. I've also slightly curved the loop just to make it look better. It also gives me a bit more space to model the station building and surrounding area. Next I will transfer it to plywood and start cutting.
  14. I was very tempted by that book when I was staying at the DFR earlier this summer, but decided against getting it as my bag was looking perilously close to Ryanair's maximum size and weight There are a couple of sellers on Amazon that ship to Italy, so I might order a copy. EDIT: Marsh Sidings is a real revelation! From what I've seen, the tramway tracks were about level with the tops of the standard gauge wagons. I think it makes sense, considering that the contents of the wagons (presumably coal or something similar) could be tipped or shovelled into the standard gauge wagons. On the Ffestiniog I imagine the slate would have to be moved by hand into the standard gauge wagons, hence the lower narrow gauge track level. That seems reasonable to me, but I might be totally wrong. As it turns out, if I have a higher narrow gauge track height, I can get the 009 track high enough over the 00 track that I can use two separate sector plates in the fiddle yard, with the 009 one moving above the 00 one. That was my original plan and seems to me the easiest to build and stow away. I think I can do all this without exceeding a 3% gradient out of the 009 station. A few experiments this evening have shown that my peco Dennis can easily tackle a 4% gradient, possibly more, but it is a heavy loco with six driving wheels and relatively light loads (I have only got 3 009 wagons, one of them is a brake van and I can only fit so many weights in the others). I'm not sure any other locos I might get can do the same, so I will keep it to 3% on the layout EDIT 2: After further searches for photos of transfer sidings I've found these photos, which are exactly the sort of thing I'm looking to model: https://waterlanemodelrailway.wordpress.com/2015/06/03/inspiration-the-transfer-siding/and https://waterlanemodelrailway.wordpress.com/2015/06/03/inspiring-images-transfer-sidings-3/ It looks like I will be going for a wall 4 or 5 cm tall, maybe with some sort of chute.
  15. I'm trying not to think of the cost, the 10mm ply for the new track beds is proving to be quite expensive I was looking at photos of Minffordd to see what kind of infrastructure to expect on narrow- to standard gauge exchange sidings. I hadn't heard of Parkend Marsh Sidings, but I've just found an 1898 track plan of the station here http://crjennings.com/The%20Remains%20of%20Britains%20Steam%20Age%20Railway/Rems%2011.html(about halfway down), so I'll do my research. EDIT: I've done a quick search for photos of Marsh sidings has turned up this: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_08_2014/post-7177-0-80273900-1408549297.jpgand this: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kerryp28/8293504587/in/photostream/ If I've worked out the locations on the track plan correctly, the wall on the left of the tracks in the first photo has the tramway tracks above it. It is quite a lot taller than I expected, I'd say about 5' or 6'. I'll keep searching for other photos, but there doesn't seem to be much about.
×
×
  • Create New...