Corbs

I've posted this elsewhere in the industrial section but for completeness here is the 16" Bagnall build in video form

Thanks Moxy, yes I did a fair bit of prep to get rid of the inevitable layering you get with 3D prints. The red coats are normal primer for showing up imperfections etc. whilst the yellow is filler primer. When I was spraying I was doing it outdoors during a warm sunny period so the coats dried very quickly. Thick filler primer coats I sometimes left to harden overnight, but thinner ones during the day I left for about 30 minutes to an hour. Fine sandpaper used wet was far more effective than the coarser stuff I found. Be careful when handling the model as true to form I managed to snap the front step off! Glued back on with some super glue though as it was a clean break. I think the main difference is the wheels on the chassis are larger than the prototype, I was experimenting with a few things though and interestingly the Peckett W4 wheels fit!

'evening all. I was lucky enough to be able to get my greasy mitts on a pre-production model of the new Hardys Hobbies Bagnall, designed by TurboSnail of this parish. It's released today and so here is my build video of how I got on (no commentary, just music and titles) Enjoy!

One thing I have used is a blast of lacquer to help seal the edges of the tape and prevent bleed. Downside is it makes a thicker paint layer and requires going around the edge of the tape with a blade before removing it.

That extra sandbox looks very much like the late model Avonside one used in the kit that Adam designed. If anyone wants one let me know and I'm sure we can print a couple.

I've been experimenting with this on the Bagnall and the Avonside (blue colour block with black surround lined in red). On the Bagnall I sprayed the whole thing blue, then masked off the colour areas with Tamiya masking tape, used a sharp blade for the corners, then sprayed the black. On the Avonside I did the opposite and sprayed it black before masking the black areas off and spraying the blue. This was easier as the kit was in separate components whereas the single piece kit of the Bagnall made that one easier to do the other way. As long as the masking tape line is straight (and the paint layers not too thick) it's not too hard to get the lining in the right place. I used micro sol and micro set to help it adhere and prevent silvering. Then sealed it all with matt lacquer. Bagnall body - you can see where I've started cutting the corners on some of the lining: On the Avonside cab I just put the lining at an angle although the bunker section was cut with a knife:

I've finished it, it was spectacular and harrowing in equal measure. I do not agree with the review bombings which I would speculate have a large quantity of thinly and not-so-thinly veiled homophobia and bots/trolls attacking large titles (especially to encourage snowball effects) to sow discord as with The Last Jedi. Ended up taking me 30 hours, but then I did clear every single room and every area I could, also in Downtown I made sure I explored everything before I left the area. Interesting how a lot of Uncharted 4 and 4a's mechanics were re-used with a different spin on them. I think in terms of brave SP stories it's up there with Spec Ops: The Line. I'm not that keen to play it again for a while, think I need some RDR2 to unwind!

Awesome. Do you have a pic of the motor you removed?

In the concept art there’s a 47 parked up in the background I also found the BRIO train set

Martyn Bane's website has this one: https://www.martynbane.co.uk/modernsteam/ldp/austerity/portaausterity.htm

If I was going DCC sound etc. and wanted to maximise room inside while keeping the original drivetrain, I would bin the large metal weight (after doing the saddle tank mod), put the gubbins in the vacated space, just glue the motor in place and use lead sheet for weight instead. I need to figure out a way to RC my 50550 but have glued the standard weight inside the tank I still maintain that this model is more fun than the DJM one though

Top tarp tip! I just copied and pasted the YT URL from the URL bar in chrome and it auto-embedded. Also - don't remember if I thanked you properly but your tip about 'trimits' was great, used it on 2 locos so far

Does anyone want to swap their black Lilleshall Peckett W4 for a green 'Forest No.1' version with the burgundy wheels and rods? This is the one I have: This is the one I would like:

I'll say it again - the two 'donor' images are not the same scale! It's like putting an N gauge body on a OO gauge chassis. So any photoshopping will be pointless until they are the same scale to begin with. Based on my photo of the Dowlais body on the Terrier chassis, it's more like this kind of relative scale:

Very smart, would it be simple 'pole' type roof supports at the corners?