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Adrian

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  1. Hi, It's all ordered on line but you have to create an account first. If you click on the login top right you should get to this page : https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/customer/account/login which then gives you the option to create an account. I seem to remember they emailed me to verify the account. Once you are logged in then the shopping cart is enabled for online ordering - be prepared for the prices though! The laser thin black sheet 1245 x 614mm is £35.50 plus VAT plus postage the 0.8mm ADAsignage is £29.50 plus VAT and postage. So it depends on how much you want - 1245 x 614mm is a lot of 2mm models! It would be worth considering joining up and splitting the costs if smaller sizes are required. As for the colour then from the Darkly Labs forum I believe the black cuts easier and cleaner but I having nothing to compare it against as I just went for the black stuff.
  2. They are expensive once you've added VAT and postage on. Amongst other things I bought the 0.5 "Thins" https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/lt404-102-black-0-5mm.html . It is quite flexible though so it depends what job you want to do with it. If you are interested I can send you a small sample to try, it does cut nicely. I don't know what other people have used, the next order I will probably try the ADA signage at 0.8mm https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/laser-materials/trolase-ada-signage/ls401-103-black-0-8mm.html
  3. As you have found this is the supplier for Trotec, https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/laser-materials.html . They will sell to individuals as they sold me some sheets, although you will need to create an account to order stuff.
  4. It's not a drawback because you don't need to do that anyway - earlier in the post I show how I set out the horn blocks in the frames with the coupling rods as guides. That is something you want to be doing before assembling the chassis. It's much easier if you do one step at a time rather than all at once on the chassis jig. Once you start putting the frames in the chassis jig you should already have set out the horn blocks at the right wheelbase.
  5. A few 12" lengths of silver steel is all you need - a darn sight cheaper than £80 then spend the money on other tools that you will use more often. http://www.cherryclan.com/2015/08/jinty-chassis-build/ IMHO chassis jigs are a luxury item if you have money to spare, personally there are dozens of other tools to spend my money on before I'd even consider a chassis jig.
  6. I could be wrong but it looks like the cones were turned on a lathe, but if you faced it off in a lathe then the cone would be symmetric. By clamping it in the mill in the way shown and milling the end of the cone it means that the bottom line of the cone part is straight with the smokebox and all the taper is on the upper part of the boiler.
  7. That's a shame - the paint went on nicely! It was only £1 so nothing lost for a bit of practice. Thanks for the info.
  8. I'd be interested in the BR CCT - hopefully it would fit the Lima effort as well (with a little tweaking) - not really into that era but I bought one to practise my painting and actually to my untutored eye the body on the Lima model looks alright to me. Also interested in details of the LNWR Coal Tank chassis, although I have just bought motor and gears to start my own chassis so it depends on the arrangement.
  9. I'm lucky in that my local model shop stocks the Alclad range, I've used the matt lacquer and got results I'm happy with in 2mmFS, I would recommend the range if your local shop can stock them. http://www.transportmodels.co.uk/alcladiilacquerklearkotematte120mlbottlepleasenoteduetoroyalmailregulationsthisproductcanonlybepostedtoukaddresses-24219.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=24219
  10. Cheers - I'll look forward to a response to my email to then.
  11. Great photos - I could do with a crane like that but I can't see any reference on the N Brass website - do you have any more details? I've emailed with an enquiry.
  12. Instead sprays oil onto the boiler lagging and causes problems for the guard when he tries to explain to the passengers that the reason for the delay is because steam engine is on fire! (courtesy of Mendips Engineman)
  13. Adrian

    Recomended Reading?

    Highly recommended - very readable, amusing and informative.
  14. I've tried it a couple of times but it never worked that well. With the solder being softer than the n/s it's very difficult to get a completely flat finish, also when soldering on any subsequent details you have to be very very careful not to get the soldering iron anywhere near the filled etch because all that hard work can disappear in an instant. Been there got the T-shirt!! Which is why I would make a replacement part -it might seem a bit of an effort but in the long run it's worth it.
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