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Andrew F

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Andrew F last won the day on July 16 2011

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    Cycle touring. Mountain climbing. Long distance walking. Real Ale/ Real pubs. European history/Literature/Architecture.....Culture!!!?

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  1. Carpet monster 1 me 0. Has anyone got a right hand side (as you face the loco) bufferbeam step for the Hornby class 50? It's the one with a shorter horizontal top. Here's hoping....it's not my 50.... Cheers Andy
  2. It's quite a simple job to just transplant the Bachmann motor/bogie and metal block onto the Hornby 110 plastic chassis.
  3. Hello there. Does anyone have any Lima GUV parcels vans (the long BR 93XXX/86XXX) that they don't want?. I'm after X 2 of these; any livery/no boxes/damage/missing parts, anything considered. Also looking for a Jouef mk3 buffet; again anything considered. Thanks for looking. Andy
  4. Hello chaps, I wonder If anyone has 3 old Hornby VDA 4-wheel vans they don't want (boxes/damage/livery unimportant) Also I'm in need of 4 extra "bogies" for same ( same as steel carrier SAA and OAA open wagon/PVA van) again damage/condition unimportant. All for budget Speedlink project so anything considered. Thanks .
  5. £20 seemed to be the going rate for City of London on ebay last year; some BIN. One of these was unused in a perfect box with the instructions included. Phoenix tends to fetch a bit more but the IC 86's went for around the £20-£25 region.
  6. Sorry, I might be talking rubbish and confusing the mk2 roof end fitting with a mk1. Yes, the roof on the mk2 has tabs at each end that clip under the domed roof ends of the coach body. If you trim off the side glazing from the roof mould you lose the mountings from the bottom of the glazing that hold the roof section to the body but you should be ok with just the end tabs. Another thing with the SE flushglazing is that you'll have to cut the three smaller top-lights away from the main window and fit them separately.
  7. Rather than filing the excess plastic from the insides of the windows I found it was easier, quicker and cleaner to get in there with a sharp long scalpel blade. Don't be tempted to force the glazing into a tight aperture as it will distort and look horrible. The door fitting for the roof that someone referred to was probably the gangway doors You can saw off the side glazing from the roof but leave some plastic at the top for rigidity but not too much or it will foul the new glazing. I did a rake of these and the rooves fit Ok this way but you get the unsi
  8. Can you try gently bending the pipes away form the ploughs? Can the ploughs be mounted slightly closer to the bogie? Maybe the NEM pocket can be trimmed back to allow this. I suppose it depends if you want a coupling at each end. Many just opt for detail/ploughs at one end and tension lock at the other in which case you'd have to trim the pipes off at that end and do away with the central piece of the ploughs and mount the outer pieces of the ploughs to the bogies.
  9. It depends on how well adhered the printed nameplates are and knowing Hornby, they will be tough to get off. Rubbing a cotton bud and T-cut will eventually remove them but will leave a very shiny area where they used to be. I use a blunt curved scalpel blade to try and scratch the printing off or a piece of plastikard. One method is to soak the printed plate in IPA but I haven't tried this. If you end up with a shiny area you could always spray-varnish the body shell (windows out of course).
  10. That's something I considered and is probably the way to go if you have that useful little blow torch. I used a single brass top-hat bearing to remove wheels from 36 axles yesterday and it looked pretty knackered after that. Knowing me though, it'll still end up being used in a bogie on some unfortunate piece of rolling stock.
  11. It's also best to ignore the recomendation of using liquid poly/mek in the instructions to secure the glazing as it won't work and can leak and damage the paint finish. Better to use something like R/C glue and glaze/canopy glue. This is water soluble so can be thinned down and work in a capilary action around the panes.
  12. Thanks everyone for your help. I've managed to remove the wheels this way: Pulling off the insulated wheel and then putting the axle vertically and loosely in a vice (wheel at the top) and tapping down on the pin-point with a top hat bearing held in place with fine long nosed plierts. This still leaves a couple of mill of the axle in the wheel as the top hat hits the wheel. I then put the axle tightly and horizontally in the vice with the wheel back against the jaws and used a set of toothed pliers to ease the wheel off the rest of the way. This seems to work fine and no blisters.
  13. Thanks for the reply Ernie. I'm looking to re-use the Lima wheels on the Bachmann axles so I've got to find a way to remove them without damage.
  14. Hello. Has anyone ever swapped the wheels from Bachmann wheelsets (12mm wagon/coach) onto Lima axles and vice-versa without damaging the axles? The insulated Lima wheel comes off the axle quite easily but the non-insulated does not. Is there an easy way to remove both wheels from both axles? Thanks Andy
  15. On a lot of old models you have to take a long scalpel blade to the inner edges of the window frames to get SE Flushglaze to fit without forcing and crushing. It's a pain (pane?) but worth the effort.
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