tophski

I have a "what if" version of the L&B, but mine is based more on one of the branches being built, and the line surviving its demise, if only for a few years. Mine is circular, with 3 versions of each train, one up, one down and one in fixational livery. I also have modelled various what if versions of the stock, in suitable liveries, based on the existing models, including a CCT wagon. 10ft sounds huge until you start to put things down, the L&B's "mainline" ethos, Pilton does give you a chance to model the turntable though, as they rolling stock and locos may well still be turned to ensure even wear and tear.... I shall look forward to seeing a version of your trackplan! Chris T B

Thanks!

To resurect this old thread, which proved very useful as I have successfully wired the harness with the stayalive and speaker, does anyone know where the white and yellow wires should go from a 6 pin harness? Thanks

Also I will be scaling up my 009 versions of the Howard Box Vans, 12/13, 24, 23, Howard opens, and all the Scenic L&B items I currently produce. Just got to try and get hold of those couplings to match! Great news for L&B modelers, and 7mm modelers, and me, now I have no excuse not to have a 7mm shunting plank..... Cheers Chris T B

I did something similar, but as Iain suggests, the iTrain forum was a huge help for me, along with their guides that were on the forum. Chris

Use Mod Podge Matte Medium watered down, dries matte, works well on other ballast so I assume it will work on this. Thanks

This depends on what OS you are running, most pc's or laptops running windows 8 or 10 will pick the touch screen up automatically and then you have the bacic windows calibration tool. They may also come with some drivers which have a more complex calibration feature which you can fine tune with.

I have made my own linkages to mount the motors further away using brass wire bent to shape, it might depend on the flex of the shaft connecting the motor to the point. They have quite a large throw which can be adjusted to suit points of different scales, so should be able to overcome that issue though. I certainly added 2 or 3 cm in length to the linkage. They pull their working point rodding with them, so in theory you should be fine - careful not to lose those tiny screws though!

I had the same issue with a couple of the motors I had fitted, but not all of them, I too have changed them to be on an accessory bus behind a circuit breaker and the problem has gone away. It did confuse me the first time it happened! Chris

I also lumped everything into the tender and made a wired connection from an old 8pin male to an 8pin female in the tender. I also had to chop away some of the tender bunker bottom to fit a larger speaker in. I did do another one with the chip in the loco and connected to a speaker in the tender, but changed this to the first method. If you wanted it to be detachable you could use something like this between the loco and tender. https://www.expressmodels.co.uk/catalogue/micro-connectors/4-pin-micro-connector-detail I am sure there are other options of joining the 2 but making them able to seperate. Chris

If you figure out the staging support, please post how, that is the part I am about to tackle in iTrain, but I won't be looking at it for a few weeks yet. If I beat you to it I will let you know how I did it! Chris

Have had no issues with ordering recently, phone number worked for me yesterday at about 4, James was very helpful for about 15 minutes on the phone. Thanks

I have 2 of the 5088RC working with the 5000 and iTrain. I too get that there are not many videos currently, but then I am guilty for not making one showing my initial trials with the components and software! I watched the faebook video that DCC Automation did, that helped me, but the step by step guide helped me fill in the blanks, such as pressing connect to get the sections to link....seems simple now, but wasn't when i was messing around by myself! The 5088RC are brilliant for showing the loco numbers in the feedback blocks. When you make the blocks that include the feedbacks, make sure you specify where those feedbacks are in the blocks!

Wireless is cheaper! And my preferred option, but there is nothing better than a wired one as backup for when the batteries run out on devices!

I use a standard MultiMaus on mine, works just fine. So does my wlan Maus. Chris