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CWJ last won the day on July 7 2012

CWJ had the most liked content!

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    4mm Scale

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  1. Rob - you're absolutely right about the details I didn't get right, in fact I'd add to the list the chassis-body clips beneath the cab doors, the buffers (and therefore probably the whole body) being slightly too high. As with any model, it's an example of how far you're prepared to go before you throw the towel in and say, "well, that's near enough"!
  2. What a horrible thought... have you seen some of our railway workers? We look distressing enough with our clothes on, thank you! We sometimes have to dive behind an obstruction if it's the only safe place; not your fault! Cheers, Will
  3. This is an interesting one. I was going to suggest adding as much weight as possible, e.g. whitemetal footplate crew, chimney, dome, dumb buffers, brass safety valves, whistle, etc. but the size of that mechanism ought to be enough to weight the pug down! As Ozzyo said, I'd try to compensate the chassis even if it's difficult, as you'll need to do everything you can to optimise pick-up with such a short wheelbase. Please keep us updated on developments! Cheers, Will
  4. Brilliant! I love original thinking like this. I bet you're always on the lookout for 1:12 accessories. "Mapping out 20 inches x 11 inches on my desk at work with Post It Notes got me thinking of making a model of a model." I'm not the only one who gets distracted at work then? Cheers, Will
  5. The loco looks a bit boxy and may only be any good for its chassis, but the tender looks more promising. Cheers, Will
  6. Fascinating to watch the layout plans developing (and the very impressive fiddle yard). A couple of thoughts on recent discussions: 1 - Do you have a means of automatically controlling the various double junctions so you can keep the trains running smoothly while preventing collisions, or will this be down to the dexterity of the operator? 2 - Could you use the grade seperation to your advantage and make one or more of the double junctions into flying junctions, eliminating the risk of head-on collisions and making pathing easier? I ask these questions as someone in awe of the sca
  7. Always a pleasure to catch up on developments here, Jeff. You're doing the right thing by removing the branch line viaduct, it makes the main line viaduct look all the more spectacular! Keep up the excellent work Cheers, Will
  8. I hope you don't mind a cheeky suggestion, Jeff, if it isn't too late to whip out the jigsaw... Unless in very steep terrain, most viaducts have an embankment on the approach (cheaper than building a longer viaduct), as in my rather poor photo below. This would also enable your slopes either side of the structure to be more gradual. Hope this makes sense, if not please ask and I'll draw a sketch of what I mean! Cheers, Will
  9. Getting back to Jack's question, I used Bachmann oval loco buffers but if you want something finer any brass or whitemetal oval BR buffer should look right. Thanks Sean; the photos are taken from an angle specifically calculated to hide the wobbly parts of the paint job!
  10. I come on here to read/write about model railways; if I find something else I'm disappointed in both my fellow participants and the people who are supposed to be moderating the site. Why does this thread still exist? If I say something offensive will someone please do us all a favour and shut it down? Boobies! Boobies! Boobies!
  11. You're lucky... ...and unfortunately "of" instead of "have" isn't limited to people from Sheffield. They should of tried harder at school.
  12. The front windscreens have etched frames from (I think) A1 models, but I wouldn't bother with them as they don't look much like the original. The red circles are actually multiple-working symbols (equivalent to the blue star you see on many diesel-electrics), the horns are (if I remember correctly) behind the two black circles in the yellow panel and the tail lights are either side of the yellow panels. I fitted white LEDs behind the headcode blind (with some translucent orange paint to create a warmer colour) and red LEDS behind the tail lights using short pieces of fibre-optic as lenses.
  13. Here you go (with apologies for the photography, which wasn't my finest!): Original model (note the HST power car bogie...): And after conversion: Tension-lock couplers were at the request of the loco's owner, hence the lack of bufferbeam details. Cheers, Will
  14. Hi Nick - there's an easy option: sell the 153 chassis on eBay, where it will go for more than it's worth, and use the money to buy a new, complete153 at a discounted price from one of the larger retailers. ...unless there's a specific reason you need to use the 155 body, of course? Cheers, Will
  15. I did up a Hornby Class 29 for a friend a couple of years ago. I fitted an etched fan and grille, working lights and headcode blinds, DCC socket and 'flushglaze' glazing before giving it a decent re-paint (by my standards), which to be honest makes up for 50% of the improvement. I also remember removing some detail from the nose end, possibly the doors referred to by Ravenser. While it isn't a perfect scale model it looks the part from a sensible distance. If I did it again, I'd fit a Class 24/25 chassis as recommended above. I'll dig out a photo if anyone's interested. Cheers,
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