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    Railway Modelling, Ice Skating, Classic Cars, Queen

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  1. Not necessarily Tim, http://shedbashuk.blogspot.com/2016/01/kings-cross-1933-1951.html Interesting to note an B2 and B7 at King's Cross shed on the 29th April 1933 (OT: there are a couple of D49s listed too!). 25th May 1935 shows two A5s (some where based there), a B4, an N5 and an O4. Finally, the 27th February 1938 finds a solitary B2 representing the former GCR. Some spotter notes that I have covering 1935-36 shows a B2, two B3s, two B4s and a B7 being copped between King's Cross and Hadley Wood. Furthermore, the RTCS green series states that C4 got transferred to Cambridge between April 1936 and April 1938 (Yeadon's states this too), which was used mainly on the slow trains to King's Cross and occasionally the buffet express (although this was rare due to a 40mph speed restriction on the loco between Cambridge and Hitchin).
  2. Thanks guys and a happy New Year to both of you. Jerry, the teak is a variation on Mike Trice's method using oil paints. First paint a base colour; I've found a tan or light brown works best (the Minitrix coach was left in its plastic state). The oil paints are Windsor and Newton oil colours. I use: - Yellow Ochre - Raw Sienna - Burnt Sienna - Burnt Umber Tiny dots of these colours are put onto each panel and then blended in using a decent OO brush. By varying the amounts of each colour, different hues and effects can be achieved. I've been aiming to recreate the look of an unvarnished coach at this stage, basing the colours on an GNR coach that's been under restoration at the NYMR over the last few years. Once dry (I leave it for 48 hours before tackling the other side and letting that dry), I apply a coat of mix of Tamiya acrylic gloss varnish and clear red to seal everything in (acrylic so it won't react with the oil paint) and replicate the effect of the 20 or so coats of varnish the real things received. Then decals, lining, etc can be applied before sealing with a satin varnish. The above photos are really cruel, showing all the brush strokes, but this isn't noticeable once dry and varnished. I will be at Stevenage, but advanced warning that I've found that I've still got a problem with my CAD program crashing so I've not been able to design or print anything new.
  3. I've just realised that I didn't post any updates on the Gresley repaints. There is still quite a bit of detail painting to be done but they are lined out and decals have been added. Here is the Minitrix Composite Brake as it was a couple of months back. I'll see about finding some time (and inclination) to finish these this month!
  4. Happy New Year to you as well Simon. Shortening the stepboards was reasonably straightforward, simply snipping away the unwanted bits and some careful measuring of the stepboards themselves. Slight more difficult was removing the rear lip of the stepboard from the ends of the solebars. I did this using a piercing saw but a small portion around the spring hangers remain. I didn't consider filling in the door windows, there seems to be quite a bit of variation and, as it is not too visible, I didn't give it much thought - the roof isn't fixed, so there is still time to look at that area and make a decision.
  5. A couple of kit bashed brake van kits to round off the decade from me. You never know, 2020 might just see some items actually get finished! Happy New Year and all the best for 2020!
  6. I've not had a huge amount of time for modelling recently. This has been just as well as my soldering iron gave out at the beginning of the month and my CAD program developed a fault and kept crashing (I think I've managed to sort that now!). Anyway, a surprise Christmas present was a new soldering iron and I've had a few days where I've been able to test it out. I'm not keen on the end bits that came with it, but I have managed to sling together the bulk of a couple of brake vans. First up is a 2mm Association kit for a BR Dia 1/506 brake van that I've worked into a representation of an early LNER Toad D. The step boards have been shortened and the cast concrete ends have been replaced with some thin brass sheet to represent the early steel plate ends. The roof detail has been filed off and the roof turned over to provide the original locations for the ventilators and stove pipe with the lost detail being reinstated. Next up is a GN eight wheel brake van. The body for this came from two BHE kits (one recovered and reduced back to component parts from my aborted six-wheeler project) that have been cut and shunt to create the correct 20'2" body length. The 'W' irons are 2mm Association items, which I've left unaltered which means the wheelbase is a bit over length. However, I was concerned that modifying them would make aligning everything up too difficult; I'd like to build another one of these in the future and may have a go at getting the correct wheelbase then. Solebars are scratch-built out of 0.2mm nickel silver sheet but I'm yet to tackle the step boards. The roof is an offcut of a BHE etched roof with the holes for the ventilator and stovepipe drilled but no rainstrips attached yet. Neither of the roofs have been attached yet, this will be done after painting and glazing. Further detailing will have to wait as I'm out of 0.3mm and 0.4mm drill bits at the moment! :'( A final view of the two vans to sign 2019 off with. Wishing everyone a happy New Year!
  7. Thank you. Some proof that it all works!
  8. Atso

    Hadley Wood

    The latest bit of track laying was completed last week and means that track laying for the first board has almost been completed now. Me being me, I could resist getting my stock out (well anything with wheels really) and giving myself an idea of what the finished fiddle yard will look like. I think I'm going to need a lot more stock!
  9. I've spent the last couple of days working out how to cut-and-shunt a Farish J39 donor to get the correct wheelbase for a J6. Before: After: The chassis bits have been epoxied back together and pinned using some M1.2 self tapping screws. Amazingly, everything still works!
  10. Well at the moment I'm still slowly designing stuff to etch and saving to get it made. In the meantime, I've been looking at what I can do with some bits and pieces that have been sitting around for awhile now. Therefore, I decided to turn my attention back to the J6s I was building a few years back. The problem for me with my original efforts was that the J39 donor loco chassis was too long in both the loco and tender and spoiled the overall look of the J6 for me. I've been contemplating a solution to this problem for some time but lacked the courage to go for it. First of all, the donor chassis placed over some scaled down drawings for Isinglass Models. As can be seen, the front coupled wheelbase of the loco is too long (1.545mm) and the LNER tender is huge compared to the GNR one; some surgery was going to be required. I started with the loco chassis and disassembled the whole thing. I then used epoxy glue to permanently bond the two chassis halfs together (being careful not to get glue into the recesses for the wheel bearings) and reassembled the basic block. Once everything had set, I made a 'Z' cut between the front and middle wheels, carefully cutting around the retaining screw, and filed around 1.5mm from the pieces. I found a set of B1 coupling rods and fitted these to the J39 driving wheels and test fitted everything together. Once I was happy that the chassis parts were the right length, I elongated the front screw hole in the keeper plate and screwed everything together before carefully introducing epoxy to join the two chassis halves together. I test ran the chassis along a piece of track to ensure that there was no binding and left it overnight to harden. The next morning, I drilled two 1mm holes into the block and pinned everything together with a couple of 1.2mm self tapping screws. Once I was happy with that the two sides of the chassis were picking up off of all wheels, I cut the heads off the screws and filed them flush with the top of the chassis. Below is a comparison photo of the altered chassis with an unaltered one. I also had a play with the tender to see if I could somehow make it fit into a GNR tender body. By losing the DCC stuff and some modest trimming, I managed to get it to fit. However, all but one of the J6's had tenders with an equal wheelbase and, having gone to all the effort with the loco chassis, I decided to see if I could do anything with the tender drive. Some time ago, a very talented friend of mine built me a tender drive which was powered on the rear two axles only. This works surprisingly well (and hauls twelve Gresleys on the level), so I thought I'd have a go at replicating this. I stripped the idler gears from between the front and middle axle holes and cut the chassis, shortened it and epoxied it back together. When everything has hardened in the morning, I'll fit another screw to pin the two halves together. Below is where things stand as of tonight.
  11. Ok, I've varnished the Dapol brake composite. I used a mix consisting of one third Tamiya clear red and two thirds gloss clear. This gave the coach a lovely deep red tint which was probably a little too much for an N Gauge coach. I then gave the coach a very light coat of thinned clear yellow which gave me a colour I was happy with - and changes depending on the lighting conditions. Before: After: Now that the first side is under a protective coat, I've 'teaked' the other side.
  12. Sadly, as much as I'd like to blame that on auto-correct, it is more of a case of fingers typing on keyboard without brain being engaged! The correct colour is yellow ochre, however I quite like the idea of a yellow marine mammal; think of it as an environmentally friendly version of a certain submarine that is referenced in a well known song. However, I wouldn't have thought living in a yellow orca would be particularly pleasant or long.
  13. I thought I'd share my n gauge 'teaking' efforts using a variation of Mike's technique. The following bodies have been painted with a base coat and then 'teaked' using Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and Yellow Orca oil paints. Simply blob tiny amounts of these paints onto each panel and meld together using a brush. The above coaches used Tamiya Desert Yellow as a base coat. I'll be experimenting with some tinted varnish to make the colours a little richer. This one was painted over a Humbrol Natural Wood basecoat. I think it provides an interesting contrast to the two coach bodies above it. This old Minitrix coach was painted straight over the light tan plastic. I think this one is the one I'm happiest with but I'll have to mask the windows before varnishing (try as I might, I cannot convince them to come out!).
  14. With my etched N Gauge 51' stock nearing completion, I thought I'd try some experiments with teak effects on some Maroon Dapol Gresleys. While I was in Pickering a couple of months back, I spent some time studying one of the teaks that is undergoing restoration. I noticed that the unvarnished teak was a very light earthy colour and thoughts I'd try and recreate this and get the final effect using some red/orange tinted varnish. The lighter coaches were sprayed with Tamiya Desert Yellow as a base coat, while the darker coach was sprayed with Humbrol Natural Wood. The "teak" was created using Windsor and Newton oil paints, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and Yellow Orca. I applied tiny dots of the paint to each panel using a OO brush and then melded them together. Small additional amounts were then used to create various grain effects. I'll have to leave this to dry out properly for a few days now before applying the varnish.
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