Atso
-
Posts
1,626 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Blog Comments posted by Atso
-
-
Very nicely built. A couple of questions if I may,
1.) Are you going to try and add the lower beading or leave the recessed bits as they are?
2.) As I'm thinking of doing something similar for some unusual GNR prototypes, do you know what thickness brass was used for these?
Many thanks in advance.
Steve
-
Thanks for the description, Will.
-
Hi Will that Gresley is brilliant. What have you done for the teak graining? The side picture bears an uncanny resemblance to the old Cav'n'dish sides - now under the Ultima/Etched Pixels brand as per your post.
-
Hi Ian,
Those signal box plans are looking good. A quick question though; if you are going to etch the windows, why don't you etch the whole box? I built the Severn Models etched signal box kit earlier this year (no connection with the company, just a happy customer) and, having previous shied away from etched kits, found it a joy to build. Below is a picture of my completed kit with some added details, I'm sure you could do something similar with your CAD plans.
-
Many thanks for the information.
-
Those look really good. Nice, crisp and no trace of the printing process. I know of two companies offering this service - which one did you go with?
BTW, what happened to your old N gauge K3?
-
Good use of some modern image stock (?). All that beading would've given me a headache!
I've got a hankering for some Gresley steel stock, specifically the five coach twin third, composite, twin third of which several were built (using the cardboard side techniques described in one of the RMs earlier this year, although with my own spin on this approach). My problem will be the opposite of yours though, although completely flush this coaches were finished in 'mock' teak with full lining! Theres nothing there to help get things straight! However, I do have a 'cunning plan' which I'll be eager to try out once I'm in a position to do some modelling again!
-
That '5' looks great Tom, I think you've got this about right IMHO.
Re. the coal load. You could cut a piece of lead sheet to size mount it in the tender and pile real coal on top of it - you might actually increase the traction weight this way!
Keep up the outstanding work!
-
Nope you're not the only one this happens too! At least you've actually managed to get your layout to an very presentable standard - my layout has been 'in progress' for years but never actually seems to find the time to be built. Anyway I will temporarily be without the day job for a couple of months soon so I hope to get things started properly then!
-
I don't have much time but then again I don't spend it on things like a layout!!!
Honestly though, actually building a layout that doesn't need to be dismantled within a couple of months would be nice! Liking Foster Street by the way, what's Billy Grimes up to these days?The Jubilee and A1 were both returned items off the Farish stand at TINGS. The Jubilee runs but is in a bad way with part of the tender pin broken (not to the point that current collection is affected or the drawbar comes loose) as well as some cosmetic damage. The A1 has a broken cylinder which the previous owner tried to glue (badly), luckily I don't need the existing cylinders.
The other locomotives came from the Anoraks Anonymous stand which I think were the really outstanding bargains at TINGS. Keep looking and I'm sure you'll find a Jubilee at a good price - I find it amazing what some people think is irreparable and sell on cheaply!
-
Hmmm, I agree you need to get rid of those Green Wet and Rusty things as soon as possible!!!!
Honestly though, what a great collection of locomotives! Just need an original Royal Scot at Patriot to complete the maroon lineup!
-
Hi Matthew,
Good guess! Any chance of a picture of your K2?
Also if memory serves me correctly, weren't you doing a 'what if' production P1 2-8-2 as well?
-
Hi Julia,
Great to see you again at St. Albans and thank you for taking the time to chat.
The point rodding is awesome and I don't see how I can get away without some on my layout now! Likewise with your 3D printed lorries, having seen these in the flesh I have to agree that these are better than FUD.
I'll have to second the warning regarding the Roche drawings, I have the loco book and I've found a few errors on the LNER locos (can't advise on the others though). As has been suggested above, I've not found anything that some good references can't correct.
Re my milling problems, I think I've found another solution but I'll PM you about that later.
Glad you enjoyed the show and looking forward to Ally Pally and seeing what you've done with that Southern loco!
-
Incredible work as always Missy!
Was this printed on a B9 printer?
-
Tom the layout is looking seriously good! I can only hope that my own layout will reach 10% of the standards you've achieved here!
I'm almost expecting to see Nellie in the distance approaching the station!
-
Tom, that looks simply superb, a fantastic piece of modelling! I almost expect to see Nellie in the distance approaching the station.
I can only hope that my own layout can replicate 10% of the standard you've produced here.
-
Hi Will,
Thanks for the kind comments! The finish seems to be getting a little better with each print I tackle - the secret is to be patient with the sanding and not rush to the painting stage. I would estimate that, even with the extra time taken, cleaning up a 3D print still takes less time than building a kit.
The condenser pipes are 3D printed but are separate to the body to aid with the clean up and painting stages. They are quite fragile and therefore were the last things to be added.
-
I think the title of your blog sums up modelling in general for me! I do like that Met electric and I think the browny colour definitely looks more correct.
Looking forward to seeing this one finished and what else you might have in store for the 3D printers!
-
Thanks Missy!
The N2 has a number of flaws that I'm still not happy with. The body will need to be altered to properly fit on the body and I'll increase the thickness of the walls around the splashers at the same time. I'm really not that happy with the wheelbase of the 3MT and I'm thinking how I can extend it between the second and third coupled axles to look a little more like the prototype.
That being said the 3MT chassis I've got is a lovely runner so I'm in two minds about messing around any further with it!
-
Hi Julia,
That looks incredible! I'm tempted to get out my 2mm association wagon kit (the one that comes with the trial pack) and try and build the chassis - if I can do that then I'm certainly tempted if you plan to produce more!
How are you getting on with your lining practice?
-
1
-
-
Glad you've got the grit blaster working! Not sure what you strain the powder with though. In my excitement I've done all my blasting outside and spent an age cleaning up the mess which was only fit for the bin by that point!
-
1
-
-
Missy,
It looks are though the pen isn't quite the right shape yet. I found that this took a bit of experimentation regarding getting the profile right. Also, I find gently rubbing some medium/fine wet and dry against the inside of the nib (800 grit is the lowest I'll use) helps remove any burrs that will interfere with the paint flow. Practice on some scrap bits first, unpainted plastic card (but make sure it's clean!) is good if you not keen on having to continually paint up bits of brass for experimentation!
Regarding the paint. Did you thicken it before using it for the lining? Coachman's thread on this is really beneficial as I would have never have thought of this on my own. A condensed version of what he recommends (from memory) is: 1.) Leave the paint for a few days to settle. 2.) Pour out all the oil that has risen to the top. 3.) Stir and add back in about 1/4 of the oil. 4.) Stir again, ensuring the paint isn't lumpy at all.
With a correctly profiled pen this should now provide a nice consistent line as long as the paint isn't too old. I've found that I can line with both Revell and Humbrol paints but still have been successful with acrylics and have not tried cellulose at all.
I would leave the base coat to dry out fully before lining. Also I usually put a coat of gloss on before lining as this seems to help the paint flow. The tender chassis we used was still in it's base plastic so already reasonably glossy.
The air eraser needs around 50-60 psi to work effectively. I've opened out the feed holes in the cut to around 0.7mm as this helps a lot. However this does have the side effect that the nozzle clogs up from time to time but it is a simple matter to remove it and clean. It is still a bit under powered but will get the job done, also I've been using baking powder in mine - about 60-70% as effective as the aluminum oxide but an awful lot cheaper!
Hope this helps and for those with more knowledge than I, please forgive the crudeness of my methods!
-
1
-
-
Thanks Guys
Thanks to Atso Steve the whole lining thing doesnt seem as terrifying as it was. I was going to use transfers but now thats changed.
Anyway, thats a while off yet...
Glad I could be of help Missy! If anyone is interested in Missy's lining efforts, here is the part completed tender underframe she did - I timed this at around 6 minutes! Sorry this one was already pre-weathered but it was all I had to hand (don't ask what is going to happen to the B1 it was originally paired with!).
Truro looks so much more complete with the cab now! Shame you're looking at the MKIII version already, where are the problem areas?
-
3
-
-
Hi Simon, sorry to hear that you will not be as prominent on RMWeb as you once were. While not always the best poster, this is one of must read blogs and it will be a shame not to see it up hear as your work (as well as others) has kept me going while I've been going through my own rocky patch. I will of course keep taps on your own webpage for my regular fixes.
Should you move to North London, it would be nice to put another face to the name. While I do not live around there personally, I can be often found around Wood Green, Lee Valley and Enfield meeting friends as well as visiting the local railway sites.
Good luck with all your future ventures!
-
1
-
Gresley BG
in Hydraulic Heaven
A blog by D869 in RMweb Blogs
Posted
Thanks for the information Andy and the photographs of the prototype.
I believe I've seen a Mallard Models full brake in the past. Am I right in thinking that the five sides folded up from a single piece? If so, how easy was this? I assume that you would have chosen brass to make the forming of the sides a little easier.
Many thanks and sorry for all the questions.