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  1. As a rule it is wise to have a sheet of something under the job. Ply, aluminium, MDF, Tufnol etc. This can be bolted or clamped to the bed without the clamps interfering with the cutting. Double sided tape is very useful for holding the sheet being cut onto this. For metal I use the Diall stuff and use a hair dryer to get it unstuck afterwards. Maybe something less grippy for plastic but I have not done much of that.
  2. I think the best advice is not to worry about the number of flutes and just get on with doing some milling. One day you might need to care but for now you really don't. Whether a cutter can plunge does matter, of course and it's worth buying ones that can do this. Did you also know there are single flute cutters?.... and reasons why they work better for some jobs... but again, to get started with an MF70 it really doesn't matter. Bigger diameter mills snap far less frequently, so use the 2mm and 3mm cutters while you are learning. Make sure you have some spares in hand
  3. The X and Y axes are finished and have done plenty of good work cutting out bits for the O2. @justin1985 the reason I made my own motor mounts was to allow the MF70 to be swapped quickly between manual mode and CNC. It works as intended and I can swap in about 5 minutes. For quick, simple milling jobs I prefer manual mode. Happy to share the details if you are interested. You may need another machine to make the bits though The Z axis is a lower priority and is not done yet. I did do a mockup using an offcut of laminate flooring and bits robbed from the other axes to
  4. Likewise - mine does the job I need. There is a pretty big jump in price and size when you look at alternatives so I have no plans to change it. Incremental improvements, however, are well worth a look.
  5. Not weird at all. Same person doing the asking My standard spindle has about 2.5 thou runout measured on a cutter shank in the (Proxxon) collet. There are other reports online of circa 3 thou runout on the Proxxon spindle. The problem with this is several-fold. Firstly you get a cut that is oversize (3 thou is a fair percentage for a 1mm cutter). This error does manifest itself if using CNC to cut out shapes (and can be compensated by fudging the cutter diameter when generating g code). Secondly there is a high probability that you will only be cutting on one flute instead of the
  6. I'd suggest starting with a rewheeled 'N' loco and saving the full loco kit build until later. Then you will have something up and running quickly with which you can test your track and electrics.
  7. Could you do the black circles with a fine marker pen with the wheels turning in a lathe/drill/loco ?
  8. Good stuff Pix. Glad you are keeping up the work rate. I especially like the DMU nose - always good to see how people tackle tricky design issues and those cab window surrounds coinciding with the angles on the nose definitely come into that category.
  9. I reckon if you shift over to a different L&B then you will keep the RTR folks at bay for a while longer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjBKQlr9fSs The donkey at 1:12 is *NOT* happy! I do like a tin turtle too Oh... don't mind me... the randomness is quite an accurate reflection of the contents of my real workbench anyway.
  10. Thanks Tim and thanks for the postings about your loco builds which have definitely helped me with the O2. I do like a bit of L&B and am particularly glad that a short stretch has reopened and we can ride in restored coaches and admire the Exmoor scenery. I like my own narrow gauge models in 16mm scale with actual steam though
  11. You have the 16T kit from the Association - plastic body and etched chassis. Personally I'm a fan of this kit and have built several of them in different variations (top doors or not, bottom doors or not, different brake designs etc.). I generally scrape the insides of the sides to taper them a bit so that the top edges look thinner and add some 5 thou plastikard fillets on tops of the corners to complete the corner strengtheners. The slots in the sides are a nice touch. I'm not 100% sure about their later condition but I suspect you should probably delete the tiebars b
  12. Gosh... five! That's a vote of confidence. I hopefully have one on the way with completely wrong bogie centres which will need some stretching. Ian Morgan's post on t'other thread reminded me of another thing... I wonder if we will get to pay extra for import taxes and then service charges on top to for the privilege of having said taxes collected from us. I've had that happen before now with an order from the US but it seems pretty random.
  13. From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Rail_Class_121 - 8'6 bogies and 46'6 pivot centres I notice they have some Green Max in stock too. Historically this brand had better answers for 1st gen DMUs. The product numbers seem now to be in the 57xx range and most of the listings dont quote the bogie wheelbase but maybe there is hope for a 17mm or 17.5mm wheelbase bogie one day? ... or maybe they have moved on to making GWR Pannier tanks now?
  14. MinerChris needed to install a replacement Tramfabriek motor in his 122 to get it to run properly. They seem to do quite a trade in them so maybe factor two new motors into your sums
  15. Lovely job Jim. Good to see it is now in revenue earning service. Onwards to the next project now then
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