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  • Location
    Norfolk UK
  • Interests
    GWR, particularly South Wales, 4mm, Rhymney Railway.

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  1. I am impressed that you have got that chassis so square using simple flat spacers. Using L shaped spacers can help to keep the frames parallel longitudinally and vertically while soldering them up. But then maybe that wasn’t possible in this case. Splendid progress so far.
  2. I had that thought too Johnster. On the GWR low sided wagons there are obvious ropes holding the uprights at least. Maybe there was a rope across the top too but I’ve not spotted one. The rough surfaces would provide plenty of friction lower down but not at he top as you say. Lower image page 33 of “The Rhymney Railway Vol1 The main line from Cardiff” John Hutton. Shows NCB planked wagons loaded this way, being shunted with no apparent ropes. Llanbradach colliery sidings 27April 1957 B J Miller collection.
  3. True but I cannot find a suitable supply of anything else with a small enough diameter. The props shown in the GWR wagon loads images are remarkably straight and uniform. Possibly from pine forest. I think the appearance of the models is close enough from layout viewing distance.
  4. Quick paint job done. LED lamp giving a rather red hue.
  5. More pit props. This is also on the pit props thread in modelling questions... but I’ll put it here too to continue the earlier experiments. Double stack smaller pit props made from cocktail sticks and envelope back card. They probably need painting!
  6. I only recently found this topic and have been experimenting with wooden skewers/cocktail sticks. Following guesstimates from pictures in various books here’s my take on the smaller size pit props as loaded in a 7plank. And the construction method. Once painted the two stacks will be attached to the base to make a load. The uprights seem to have been roped to lower sided wagons but not 6-7 plank ones. Oh each stack took about one hour to make while watching TV.
  7. There is a good discussion of turntables in the layout section “Henley on Thames - GWR in the 1930s” Around page 46. Sorry I’m not sure how to add a link.
  8. I can't remember the details but there was a layout where a line of coaches formed the bottom of ""the backscene". You could do the same with your Javelin, possibly behind a wire link fence to suggest it's on the "real railway's" sidings but it would take up one tracks worth of the width. Then have an operational preservation era yard in front of it.
  9. Some proper S. Wales stock spotted at “iard fer”. The R1 is really a bit big as it takes up 2/3 of the length itself.
  10. A quiet afternoon at iard fer Just a scalescenes box file in 00 photographed on iPod. And in original colour
  11. Slowly making progress. Gardening, decorating and the Aberdare for Cwmhir have taken priority but now evenings are getting dark again.... That's an 850 pannier, just got to finish off the conveyor and sort out fixing buildings at the back in place. I have a leftover length of backscene from Cwmhir that will cover both boxfiles. I have also been making some "levers" (more like fancy pull/push knobs) for the front of box 2 to connect to wire in tube to operate the points.
  12. I stand corrected and a little more knowledgeable.
  13. Oh just thought. I've found the easiest way to cut straight lines in brass is to use a skrawker and a ruler. Make several runs along the brass until it starts to show through on the reverse. Then bend back and forth (you might need to clamp longer pieces under a ruler) until the brass snaps along the line. Much neater than piercing or hacksaws but of course not always possible.
  14. All this discussion of the reaction of lead oxide mystifies me. According to Wikipedia white lead is a complex mixture principally composed of lead carbonate. My GCSE level understanding of chemistry is as follows: Hydrogen sulphide gas is I believe relatively unreactive (and the sulphur is less reactive than oxygen so would not displace it from lead oxide anyway) and would disperse quickly in the atmosphere. In the atmosphere hydrogen sulphide would dissolve in water droplets forming sulphuric acid (acid rain). This would react with lead carbonates to form carbon dioxide, water and
  15. I’ve only ever used a square batten of wood screwed to an MDF laminate base to support right angles (as Doilum says). Cheap, easily adapted and does not act as a heat sink when soldering. Also, remember that surfaces to be soldered need to be freshly cleaned of any oxidation / production residue. Fine grade wet and dry paper and/or a glass fibre burnishing stick are my preference. Wear vinyl gloves or similar when using the fibreglass brush, the splinters get in your skin, are hard to see, difficult to remove and can be quite painful.
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