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  • Location
    Norfolk UK
  • Interests
    GWR, particularly South Wales, 4mm, Rhymney Railway.

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  1. Jack D48, my apologies I misunderstood your comment. When I looked at the cross piece in Penrhos' image I had assumed that the thinner strip spaced away from the main beam was to hold the bolt in place, perhaps by having a smaller hole than the bolt head. I also assumed that the nut bolt on the right simply had a top hat type bearing on to act as a stronger tube for the bolt to go through, That may be my interpretation rather than the actual set up used.
  2. You can see the components in the earlier picture of coaches under construction. A standard brass nut is built into a plasticard box which is glued into the roof as shown. There is a stout plastcard beam across the carriage which has a trapped bolt in it (Centre front right of picture). The bolt can be reached by a screwdriver (long shaft jewlers type I presume) via a corresponding hole in the coach floor. Nuts and bolts readily available eg. Eileen’s Emporium. It’s a very neat solution, wish I’d thought of it. I will be using it in future coach construction.
  3. Darwinian


    Hopefully it won’t come to that. I do have some nickel silver sheet but no pillar drill and it still doesn’t solve the fixing to axle issue.
  4. Darwinian


    There is a recent topic in the kit building/ scratch building section on soldering outside cranks to axles. I think that’s what I did on my Bulldog, although it ha Ultrascale wheels. From those discussions I think I will give it a try first. If I can keep the cranks close to an interference fit I should be able to solder them without the quartering moving. I use a GW models quartering jig to set them up.
  5. I have exactly this problem. Some of the Gibson cranks on my Aberdare have split soon after fitting (they were purchased in 2007 so age might be a factor). The Finney (now brassmasters) kit includes etched cranks that laminate together. They are meant for stepped ultrascale axles. If I carefully ream them out to be an interference fit on the Gibson axles I guess I can solder then onto the axles? If not what type of loctite would be suitable?
  6. Darwinian


    Tender now running nicely. I took some metal off the back of the pinpoint bearings at the compensated end and substituted a length of blunt ended 2mm rod for the pinpoint middle axle. Then disaster, hooked it together with the loco on Cwmhir, applied power, whirrrrr but no movement. I thought I’d forgotten to tighten the grub screw on the final drive cog but no, the outside cranks on the driven axle were loose and one had split. Looks like the plastic Gibson cranks aren’t up to this job. Only option I have is to try to adapt the etched, laminated cranks intended for Ultrascale stepped axles. Any other ideas?
  7. That’s really developing nicely. I especially like the station building. As a resident of Norfolk I’ll follow this with interest. J15s are just such dainty engines (says an avowed GWR enthusiast), always a joy to see the NNR J15/Ywhatsit one
  8. Darwinian


    Found the short on the tender. The cross wire between the frames holding the rearmost pair of brake hangers had come out of its locating hole on the insulated side, allowing the brake shoe to touch the wheel. Repositioned and super glued and all is well. Now to sort out the wiring clearance. Then I can try to run it in a bit as the mechanism isn’t as free running as I’d like. Although it’s not been lubricated yet and with outside bearings as well there are a lot of bearing surfaces.
  9. Darwinian


    Problems arise. I fitted a current carrying hook with additional spring wipers to the tender and wires to the loco motor. Here’s the business end of the hook. On electrical testing there’s a frequent short circuit in the tender. An insulated wheel rim must be touching the the bodywork somewhere. I also cannot get the loco motor/gearbox into the body now the wires are on. More fiddling and faffing needed. Encouragingly the loco chassis seems to run OK when the motor is wired directly.
  10. Darwinian


    I just claim it’s on a trial/shake down run up the valley to Cwmhir from Caerphilly workshops. I doubt an Aberdare made it up a valley in Rhymney territory otherwise. Especially as it has to return tender first. My 28xx and ex-ROD 2-8-0s are really pushing that excuse but I do like big freight engines.
  11. Darwinian


    Progress update. Putting it all together part 1. I assembled the tender although the tank/footplate doesn’t sit fully down on the frames. Will need to take a bit off the tops of the springs as they catch on the valances . Also no allowance was made at the rear of the frames for the buffer housings projecting through the buffer beam. I had to resort to filing off about 2mm from the frames. It doesn’t show behind the steps anyway. Here are loco and tender standing on 3rd radius but only just. I doubt the loco will really be able to grind round as the flanges are tight to the railhead. Good job there are no curves quite this tight on Cwmhir.
  12. Have you tried “Dowel drill centre pins”? Cheap and easy to use for dowels in any position. My Dad had a dowelling clamp. That also helped keep the drill bit vertical as well as aligning the holes. Various designs are available. Looks like you’ve done a splendid job so far.
  13. Darwinian


    Having assembled the chassis I realise that the brake pull rods just stop behind the cab steps, waving around in mid air. I looked at my Finney bulldog and it has steam brake cylinders there but there were none in this kit. A quick check on Brassmasters web site shows the castings but doesn’t list them as for the Aberdare. I assume they should be on the loco so I’ll do a bit of checking and maybe cobble something together. I have also found that the motor support chassis spacer makes it very difficult to get the footplate on now that I have the boiler front attached to the footplate. Will have to take a few mm off the motor support.
  14. Darwinian


    The proper wheels are in along with the motor/gearbox. The chassis alone goes around 3rd radius and looks to have enough on the axles for the outside cranks. It pushes through my track work OK but once the body is on the pony truck derails on turnouts. Think it is catching on the back end of the vac pipe. Hard to see when right way up. Will have a thorough investigation tomorrow.Getting the motor/gearbox inside the boiler/firebox is very tight. I had to cut open the rear firebox bulkhead and cut off the motor shaft at the pickup end.
  15. Another vote for the French monstrosity. They must have given the designer a bigger lump of clay than Collett got. Best... LMS coronation in red with go faster stripes.
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