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Darwinian

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  • Location
    Norfolk UK
  • Interests
    GWR, particularly South Wales, 4mm, Rhymney Railway.

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  1. I have some of that, inherited from my Dad’s model railway bits. Always wondered what it was supposed to represent. Very helpful thanks.
  2. I too have in the last few years largely moved over to Vallejo air acrylics from enamels. I bought a basic colour set and have mixed the railway colours I need from them. The dropper bottles they come in make this pretty repeatable as long as you keep a record of your mixes. When airbrushing don’t allow the paint cup to empty, the air flow will dry any residual paint in the airbrush very quickly. I have found thinning with their thinners produces workable washes. This coach is an example. I finished it off with Vallejo satin varnish diluted and sprayed. Beware that this will bloom if too thickly applied or if 1st coat is not dry when 2nd applied.
  3. Re the safety bracket I did mine like this. Hope I got it right.
  4. I have seen several articles showing conversions to EM by using washers to space out the longer wheel back to back from the 00 frames. Black plasticard frame profiles are then added, supported on strip to give the correct spacing and brake gear etc, reattached to these. I seem to recall one example where the brake cross beams were lengthened simply by squashing them. As commented above clearance behind the crosshead will be an issue so minimal sideways movement of the front axle is desireable. Pickup issues should be no different to 00 but track holding without some form of suspension may be, then again weren't Roy Jacksons Retford stock built with rigid chassis? I should admit that I have not actually done this myself as I stuck with 00.
  5. That's a much better solution than mine Hayfield, why didn't I think to do that? I had to cut down a lot of half chairs to put on my copper-clad sleeper strip.
  6. Gibson’s horn locks are OK in my experience but are designed to ride on the stops with the springs pushing the wheels down when the load comes off them. Unlike flexi-chas or CSBs. I think there have been several iterations over the years since they were first introduced.
  7. I have built one of these too, in 00, having done the Bulldog before. It all went together very nicely if rather slowly. Now I'm prevaricating about building the Aberdare I bought some 8 years ago. I'll follow your progress with interest, best of luck.
  8. The driving wheelbase is reversed. Closer spaced pair of wheels are at the cab end on 44xx. IIRC the rods are reversed too with the joint leading on the 44xx where as it's trailing on the 45xx.
  9. Darwinian

    Cwmhir

    Small structures being built. First up is the decency screen to go at the “gentleman’s” end of the station building. The ratio kit has a cast concrete job, not the thing at all. This one is modelled on Bargoed using Wills sheet. The top capping needs fettling once the poly dries overnight. Next is a platelayers’ hut to go next to the signal box. This is a freelance design to fit the space. Moulded timber boarding from local model shop (HO actually) and scalescenes brick left over from a test print for my Iard Fer micro.
  10. Wonder if they would have allowed a “strategic reserve” theme? Real steam trains hidden in tunnels and an MOD style. Myth or Urban legend?
  11. Darwinian

    Cwmhir

    I have been playing with my newly installed lighting. Not quite right but a bit of fun. Carriages stand awaiting the last departure of the day. Fireman hasn't put the lamp on the bunker yet so not leaving just yet. Signalman is still here though the box lamps are on.
  12. I just tried soldering a short length of 0.7mm brass wire to the ends of the very fine wires. This fits through the hole needed for the lamp base and small choc block connectors will grip it (unlike the very fine wire) and it’s easier to get into them too. Needed to be able to remove my lamps to work on the platforms off the layout.
  13. My gaugemaster oil lamps have a brass tube that the post base extensions slide onto. I assumed this formed a core for the plastic post. No noticeable flash on mine.
  14. Further to the above note that although the control boards are marked DCC concepts the production is now by Gaugemaster.
  15. I have the GWR version. They are 60mm tall without the extensions. Not seen many oil lamps taller. Wiring is straightforward as they contain grain of wheat type bulbs not LEDs so no polarity issue. They are supplied with a control circuit that allows you to adjust the brightness. DC or AC supply but it needs to be a regulated supply so either check the output with a volt/multimeter or use a wall adapter as suggested (info sent to my by DCC concepts who make the boards). The boards have sensibly sized solder pads to attach the input/output wires. I have no connection with either Gaugemaster or DCC concepts other than as a customer and have only just installed my sets.
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