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Right then. I am now convinced that any attempt at doing without a transition curve at the entrance to the bit of storage I was concerned about is a daft idea and I am asking for trouble. I have been playing around with AnyRail for the last few days to see if I could come up something that fitted and yesterday I thought I'd cracked it. I then drew out a track base on a sheet of plywood. This morning I cut the track base out and tried it for size. I haven't actually cut the lead in curve I was so concerned about but since the plywood takes up fractionally less space, I am confident it will fit. Thank you all for your contributions to this thread and for helping to resolve this little matter.

When you refit the roof, are you going to make it removable this time, e.g. adding triangular sections to fit just inside the walls for an inteference fit or thin strips of double-sided tape on the wall tops?

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/22405-a-simple-scotch-derrick/

Thanks Dave. ... from curves into pointwork ... - In this particular instance I am only dealing with a curve into a straight and no points. ... will take a fair amount of work to get right ... - That was what prompted me to start this thread. Perhaps I had better not try to short cut things and I should set up a test length of track and as many wagons as I can find. I was trying to avoid unpacking stock because it will all have to go away again before I continue with the baseboard build. ... Coaches pushed backwards buffer to buffer can be an issue ... - I am less concerned about coaches because I think the type of coupling I intend to adopt will help avoid buffer lock. Plus it is easier to use larger buffer heads or to hide things like horizontal bars without it being too obvious. ... sideplay becomes an issue and a lot depends on how much off centre the wheels and track allow the stock to be ... - Although I'm using 00 gauge, I shall aim to standardise back-to-backs and clearances in the hope of mitigating this as much as I can. ... yes, use a transition ... - I think I have already concluded that avoiding a transition curve may be too risky. Even where responses have not quite answered the question in the original post, it is clear that transition curves are strongly favoured. ... Some tricks ... ... Spring the buffers - One of my aims. I already have a number of converted wagons and will aim for as high a proportion as I can. ... File off any little pip on metal buffers - I will look closely at all buffers as wagons are fettled. ... Oil them - That's a good idea. It had occurred to me to oil the buffer shafts and springs but not the faces. ... go up a buffer size for coaches if they do cause trouble. - That one I had thought of. Ditto for longer wheelbase goods wagons. Anyway, at 1 min in there is a train going back, off a curve into pointwork and across a long crossing. My tracklaying is not perfect, you can see the compensation working and the buffers bouncing a bit. - A lovely layout and an enjoyable video. Thank you.

Thanks Johnster. I'm not intending to use any set track and will not be laying curves less than 915mm (36") radius. I will use a Tracksetta to ensure curves are consistent throughout their length plus a combination of homemade template and human eyeball to get the transition curves right. My original question related only to one specific location within a hidden storage area where it would be easier to fit things in if I did not need the extra length required for a transition curve. I was concerned though that I might get buffer lock when propelling. Do you use 3-link couplings and, if so, do you have any problems with buffer lock in your fiddle yard?

I'm sure Black Rat can provide some suitable suggestions.

I converted our single skin brick garage but didn't worry about the doors because I built a wall across. So from the outside it still looks like a garage, but the front is just a 1.2m deep store (the depth was defined by the clearance needed for the up-and-over doors). The personnel door at the side now gives access to a fully insulated and decorated room. I had already built a small extension to join the garage to the house so it was worthwhile doing things properly and creating a habitable room which complied with Building Regulations. If your garage is detached and you are only aiming to create a warmer workshop / hobby room then you can save money. It won't be as comfortable and inviting in winter though and probably won't add any significant value to the property. Having done it once, I'd probably always consider doing a proper conversion and creating a comfortable room that could be turned into a home office when you decide to move.

I see. I think that changes things then and it becomes easier to justify a mobile drawer unit of some kind. Do you really have that many tools that you use for DIY and for modelling? So far, the difference in size means I haven't found too much overlap that some minor duplication can't deal with. However, as you know, I am a less experienced modeller and significantly less experienced carpenter.

Thanks Andy. Some clarification and some further questions, if I may. "between vehicles of similar lengths" - I wasn't concerned about this for coaches since I intend to construct some couplings similar to those used by Tony Wright and others which will prevent coaches getting too close. Perhaps not totally realistic when propelling but I'm not expecting to propel coaches very often other than in the storage areas. - For wagons it does not seem to be a problem. I have done a small test using two unconverted RTR wagons with couplings removed but still with the original, fixed buffers. The buffers do not appear to overlap by less than half their face at any point. - I was under the impression that the greatest risk occurred when propelling wagons of differing lengths and/or with longer overhangs i.e. greater throw at the ends. Am I wrong about this? "straight and a radius" - Exactly the scenario I am concerned about. "two different radii" - Not applicable for me. I have adopted a 915mm minimum radius and where a curve opens out or tightens it will do so gradually. "reverse curves" - I only have two examples of this. As part of the main running lines there is a reverse curve but I intend to include a short straight section in the middle, long enough for two wagons or two coach bogies, plus I do not expect to propell around this section. The other example is a crossover but the radii of the points involved are much greater than my 915mm minimum so I am not expecting any problems especially at slower speeds. "Once you have a safe transition curve ..." - I do not have any straight to curved sections that do not include a transition curve. There is only one possible exception which is why I asked the question at the start of this thread. "... steam ... a short loco coupled to long coaches ..." - I do have this risk. Do you think my 915mm minimum radius is a problem?

Sometimes referred to as an easement curve. Where a straight joins a curve it takes the form of a length of track that starts almost straight and gradually tightens until it reaches the radius of the curve. In the real world, a train wants to continue in a straight line and gradually easing a train into a curve prevents the mass flinging it off the rails. We can get away without transition curves with train sets flinging the models from straight to curve because there is little mass involved. However, if not using tension lock couplings or similar, which prevent buffers touching, then there is a risk of buffer lock where the head of one buffer goes past the other and then gets hooked behind it and leads to a derailment. Plus it looks daft because the curves are unrealistically tight.

Can you quantify 'extra long' in this context please? I am intending to use homemade 3-links rather than, say, Smiths, and they will be longer anyway but it would be handy to know what to aim at.

Are you saying I am likely to get buffer locking on a 915mm radius curve anyway Mike, even if I do have a transition curve?

It seems to me that once you remove most of the stuff along the left hand side and the shelf at the back there would be enough space for some specially constructed tool storage (I'm just thinking plywood with holes and slots) to hold most of what remains in a narrower space along each side and on the shelf. You then just need a drawer unit for parts, materials and paint for which the Hilka unit would be suitable albeit expensive. Peter who built the Palin's Yard layout sorted out his modelling room with some laser cut kits from Poland. These may have been MDF which I know is against your carpentry oath, but a quick search might provide some ideas.

Thanks David. I wouldn't consider not having a transition curve elsewhere on the layout, it's just that it would make things easier in this one spot if I could get away without one. If enough people think it is a bad idea then I'll play safe and stick with a transition curve because derailments would bug me.