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About teaky

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    : Worcestershire

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  1. Thanks Jonathan. That clarifies things. The Dart Castings website doesn't list the multi-packs for CCUs but does do for the wagon ones. I'll have to remember to ask when I next order some in case there's a saving.
  2. Hi Jonathan, I notice the pack of 2223 CCUs has a "multi-pack x2" label on it. Does this mean you can now buy a pack for two coaches (4 CCUs) or is it simply clarifying there are two CCUs in the pack (as I think there have always been) ? Also, how do you decide between using a 2223 CCU and a 2556 Rigid Frame? Or do you fit one of each to a coach?
  3. I have recently made a simple workbench. Four Ikea adjustable desk legs which screw into a frame bought from eBay. A 1220 x 610 x 18mm MDF top cut down to the size of an A1 cutting mat. Some leftover pieces of 9mm MDF for framing. Some old electrical sockets fixed underneath. Answering your OP more closely though I think I'd go for an off cut of kitchen worktop (possibly scrounged from someone nearby having a new kitchen fitted) with some folding or screw-in legs.
  4. teaky

    MRJ 280

    My copy has just arrived. A quick scan suggests it will be an interesting edition with a good mixture of articles. It is now sitting under a pile of books in order to flatten it out again. This is not something I ever had to do when the card-backed envelopes were in use. I have to say I am dismayed at the switch from a recyclable envelope to plastic. Definitely a backward step and all the more surprising given the recent attention to plastic pollution.
  5. I spent a useful couple of hours earlier sorting & tidying the garage loft. It is now looking more like a storage area than a near inaccessible dumping ground. I found a few model railway items that I thought were there but just couldn't remember which box they were in. Amongst them was a large 850g cannister of Badger Mogramair airbrush propellant. The price sticker says £3.62 Ashton Model Supplies. This is partly used and has the airbrush valve fitting screwed into the top. It feels slightly over 3/4 full. It hasn't been touched for 39 years! I'm amazed it hasn't leake
  6. Ah, you appear to be assuming that I do not already have a cunning plan.
  7. I'll second that. I have owned an Evolution compound mitre saw with a smaller diameter blade than Jeff's for around 5 years too and I am still on the original blade despite having used it to cut lots of timber, steel bar, aluminium tubing, plastic pipe ... I also own a circular saw which I have had for longer. I bought both saws from Screwfix. If you want one but are in no rush then I recommend biding your time though as they get substantially discounted at intervals. (Which is also true of most of the other brands.) One correction though, Jeff. Sadly, t
  8. Probably the final item for the time being. A cradle to hold coaches whilst applying lining. MDF base and some blocks with a central slot lined with self-adhesive foam. There are two additional layers of foam on the base of the slot which still have the backing on them so that I can tweak the height of the coach body with the aim of bringing it up to a fraction below the top of the side rests such that when a ruler is placed across the gap it is close to the coach body but not touching it and thus not smudging any wet paint. I have w
  9. I realise I may be pushing the excitement boundaries here but I'm going to risk it. A paper towel holder. Bits and pieces again, this time a circle of plywood and an off cut of old curtain pole.
  10. Latest instalment in the series of tasks designed to avoid actually doing anything layout related. A loco servicing cradle. Credit must go to Steve Howe on this one. I pinched it from one he posted a couple of years ago. All off cuts and leftovers apart from the nuts and bolts: 18mm MDF base, 9mm MDF back, wooden angle, self-adhesive foam lining the inside and base.
  11. I tried the Humbrol tinlet upright, upside down and sideways but it made no difference. I reckon the movement is insufficient for the more badly separated paints. I think I have a small spring somewhere and as soon as I find it I'll see if I can rig things up differently. If this is an occasional problem I can live with it though. Currently my intention is to try to standardise on Vallejo acrylics and because these will be new I am hoping separation will be minimal. An alternative I have yet to try is a converted coffee frother fitted through a spare tinlet lid via s
  12. That was one of the ideas I considered. It seemed too fierce though. I might have revisit that option if I encounter more of the separated paints.
  13. Thanks Paul. In reality, the key items are the soldering board and a bench for it to sit on. I have a substantial number of droppers to solder to lengths of track. I'll get going eventually.
  14. Paint mixer. MDF base + small metal pot + motor with eccentric flywheel (inside a plastic case) + connector + 9V battery + battery holder with switch + self-adhesive foam. The pot sits on top of a stack of foam which allows the pot and motor to wobble about. Total cost: less than £10. Having tried this out on a 14ml tinlet of Humbrol gloss enamel I am not totally convinced it functions as desired. The tinlet was recently purchased but had been sitting on the shelf for a while and I put a couple of haematite beads in the tinlet to help with sti
  15. Next thrilling instalment. MDF + fire proof board. The untidy paintwork is down to me concentrating on sealing the edge of the fire proof board. It has already started to look scruffy after the first bit of soldering anyway. The reel of solder sits around a screw to keep it still and the other items are secured with double-sided tape.
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