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Wilton 34041

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  • Location
    Peacehaven, East Sussex.
  • Interests
    LSWR & SR/BR South Western Section .
    Mainly Salisbury - Exeter. Wilton and Hewish Gates in particular as I am intending to build models of them. (EM gauge).

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  1. Loco detailing
    Kylestrome’s 4mm Workbench

    I know that many people bend loco lamp brackets up from a single piece of metal strip but I've always found this method to be a little hit-or-miss. The main difficulty is in getting the folds consistently the same so I've devised my own method of making them which, although still fiddly, I find is easier to repeat.

     

    DSC_6276.jpg.01f1725688ddd28e38b294f605c7cbae.jpg

    Not having any suitable strip I have filed down some 1mm brass T-section to provide the raw material. The mounting pin is 0.45mm brass wire.

     

    DSC_6261.jpg.d4c8b6382ea8a4794a10cfa17f223c45.jpg

    The main parts are held with masking tape for soldering and trimmed later.

     

    DSC_6265.jpg.6fa1414ad6ae8b54a881474314c1dd9c.jpg

    The finished lamp bracket, this one is for a Class 29.

     

     

    David


  2. Etching, how to start
    Kylestrome’s 4mm Workbench

    Hi -  great thread and awesome modelling.

     

    I've been reading your Hornby Ex Works 29  and Bachman/Hornby Rat Sandwich threads with interest. 

     

    Would you be able/willing to give an overview of how you get such excellent etches in this thread at all ?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Many thanks for the kind comments.

     

    Regarding etchings, I think the hardest part is finding enough useful things to fill a large sheet! There really is nothing particularly difficult about it if you are able to do drawings using relatively simple 2D computer software. Up to now I have been using an ancient version of FreeHand (on a Mac), but Illustrator, Coral Draw or similar, will do just as well (it certainly doesn’t have to be CAD software). In future I will be using Affinity Designer which, for professional software, is incredibly cheap at just under £50 (Windows or Mac).

     

    The rest is down to PPD Ltd. who I use for the actual etching and, as a satisfied customer, I can thoroughly recommend. If you go to their website and download the ‘Artwork Guide'* PDFs you will have all the information necessary for producing problem-free drawings from which they can produce the photo-tools. I usually convert my drawings into PDFs and send them by e-mail. 

     

    *http://www.ppdltd.com/artwork-guide.html

     

    My last sheet (approx 12” x 6”) of 10 thou. thick nickel silver cost me £52 in January 2016, including postage to Germany. I much prefer nickel silver for a number of reasons; it doesn’t tarnish quickly or to the extent that brass does, it seems to take paint better and it’s obviously a better colour to represent steel or chrome.

     

    That’s about all I can think of that might be useful, unless you have any specific questions?

     

     

    David


  3. Class 50 Photos....
    Class 50 Photos....

    Here are two class 50s waiting departure from Exeter St Davids in July 1985, after re-signalling had taken place at Exeter St Davids.

    On the left 50014 Warspite waits to leave with the 08.11 service for Waterloo, while 50047 Swiftsure stands in platform 1 with the 06.35 Bristol Temple Meads to Plymouth, which also conveyed parcel vans on the rear, so had extended station time at a number of calling points.    

    A copy of this photo appears in my second book 'Railways of the West of England in the 1980s'  by Amberley, due out in September 2019.  Over 25 images contain class 50s, though not always as the main subject, and a number of locos appear more than once,

     

    cheers

     

    scan0006.jpg.54111ef4d2a0716dc2ed80aeac267b50.jpg


  4. Class 50 Photos....
    Class 50 Photos....

    50 013 at Old Oak in March '83... photographer unknown, found it in my deep and dark Old Oak archive...!

     

     

     

     

    #ABB 50 013 Old Oak March 1983.jpg


  5. Class 50 Photos....
    Class 50 Photos....

    I’ve just completed digitising/editing another of my cine films. Indeed its my first ever sound cine film, Rail 1981 and 1982, so the quality could be better.  But it does start with some class 50s outside Paddington.

     

     


  6. Regional Railway/ Trans-pennine/ Provincial livery help
    Regional Railway/ Trans-pennine/ Provincial livery help

    Here are some photos of my Trans Pennine rake that I put together in the early 1990s.

     

    All are full or (Lima) partial repaints fitted with Southeastern Finecast flushglaze windows and Fox blue/white stripe transfer.

     

    First up is BG 92317, the one with Commonwealth bogies. It was built from the brake ends of two Traing BSKs spliced together in the days before scale length BGs were available ready to run.

     

    post-7005-0-06745100-1317578993.jpg

     

    Next up is FK 13520, a Mk2c modified from a Lima Mk2b.

     

    post-7005-0-94421300-1317579004.jpg

     

    This is TSO 5453, a Lima Mk2b. This one wasn't strictly a Trans pennine coach and wasn't branded as such. I believe it was intended to be the standard Provincial livery but in the event was the only one before the change to regional railways.

     

    post-7005-0-76329700-1317579018.jpg

     

    Then there is Mk2c TSO 5520, also Lima.

     

    post-7005-0-76853900-1317579032.jpg

     

    Finally Mk2 TSO 5192, one of those converted to air operated disc brakes for the Glasgow Edinburgh push pulls. This is Hornby.

     

    post-7005-0-41607500-1317579142.jpg

     

    I had intended to do more, particularly some Mk2a TSOs but the amount of filing to remove the draw angle around the window openings to get the flush glaze to fit got me down in the end. There is also a part finished BSO in the loft.

     

    I may well have another go using the more modern Bachmann Mk2s in the future, I bought several TSOs when they were cheap.


  7. 'improving' Hornby Mk2s using only things around the home
    'improving' Hornby Mk2s using only things around the home

    WARNING: This project is not for purists or rivet counters!

     

    Having acquired a Hornby Mk2a and several old Lima coaches from a friend, I decided to have a look to see if there was anything I could do to them. I was already going to do this with the two Hornby Mk2s I already had (RR 5267, NSE 5261) at some point, but the acquisition of this third coach and the Lima bogies moved it up the line, and brought it to the forefront of my mind! I don't have any money, so I decided to set myself the 'challenge' (not really - those are the circumstances!) of 'improving' them without buying anything specific for them*, just utilising bits of plastic, the odd bit of paint etc that I have in the house. I'm not sure how far I can get with them, but I have a couple of potential ideas if I can find anything suitable!

     

    DISCLAIMERS:

    I'm not a 'serious' modeller by any means, and I have a very limited selection of tools, a couple of colours of paint, and not much else, so this project does not intend to create a fully accurate representation of a Mk2a, it will be full of things I'll have to settle with and 'that will do' moments. I don't have the tools or paint to do any drastic surgery or weathering etc, so the coaches will generally still look as they do now.

    I am in no way 'arty' or 'crafty' and pretty much have the skillset of a child with fat fingers, so don't expect miracle transformations, just little bits here and there!

    I realise that there are/will be some things that are inherently wrong with the shape, fittings or liveries. Chances are I will know this (I like looking at small details of things), so I'm not interested in replies that just contain 'that shape looks wrong' or 'that livery isn't right' etc, but any other replies, constructive or otherwise, are always welcome.

     

    *I did persuade my wallet to let me buy three packs of FlushGlaze windows, but that's it.

     

    So, this is the recently-acquired coach, and the main one this project will be focusing on in terms of photos (there's no point when I pretty much just need to replicate it three times, but anything specific to the other two will be featured)

     

    Yes, I know the position of the number and logo are the wrong way around, yes, it annoys me, but yes, I'm prepared to live with it!

     

    So, this is the coach to start with, already with the glazing removed (which didn't come off cleanly.. great!), more to follow soon...

     

    post-6814-0-49645500-1529422109_thumb.jpg


  8. 'improving' Hornby Mk2s using only things around the home
    'improving' Hornby Mk2s using only things around the home

    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38524-nse-mk2a-coach-interior-seat-colours/

     

    Check out this thread for painting the seats. Also the addition of some people will help. Even if they are modified airfix soldiers(without their rifles of course!!!)


  9. PDK H15 DLT
    DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit
    17 hours ago, GWR Neal said:

    Hi Dave, 

    I have been looking forward to following this build, am I correct in thinking the wheels are Markits, I was wondering which part number they were?  

    thanks, Geoff

     

    Hi Geoff, yes the wheels are Markits, they are set no. BR303xx, complete set of wheels for the H15.  Driving wheels, bogie and tender wheels, plus crankpins and axle-nut covers.

     

    I'm currently sorting out the boiler, I've soldered some formers in place, and I'm working a out a way of making the boiler removable.  Instructions say fix it in place, but this would make painting and lining very difficult.  I prefer to be able to take it apart for painting.

     

    Now awaiting delivery of the motor and gearbox, nothing else to photograph just yet.

     

    Cheers, Dave.


  10. PDK H15 DLT Start
    DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

    Right, time to get back on the SR Loco Workbench, after a six month break.  (much of it spent on narrow gauge matters, including upgrading of the layout: Bridport Town - Carrying On )

    Current job is a Urie H15 "chonker" from a PDK kit:  (photo from PDK website)

    1805152754_PDKchonker.jpg.b7aa1ea0e3280912d11dfb581715efa1.jpg

    Spec will be 00 with Romford wheels, Mashima motor and Highlevel gearbox, and various other add-ons.  Looking forward to getting cracking on this job, its been waiting a little while.

    Updates will appear when theres something to report!

    Cheers, Dave.


  11. Links to other interesting sites
    DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit
    53 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

     

    That's High Level gearboxes for you! I swear by 'em.

     

    Regards,

    John Isherwood.

     

     

    You should try High Level's coreless motors, I have recently fitted the 1219 which is super smooth and very reasonable at £27, Chris recconds the 1220 is a lot more powerful, on a standard Road Runner.

     

    5.jpeg.ed3cc458119402c8b20051b725a4d983.jpeg

    I have just tried one of their budget 10 series 3 pole motors, seems fine and whilst I am still building the chassis seems to have enough power at least for a small tank loco and certainly the answer for those who like those little early tank locos

     

    73.jpeg.4e436a0ab32e06f8eb2f3e147e4361cc.jpeg


  12. Feltham Road
    Feltham Road MPD

    I thought it was about time I started a new layout, and I always thought of building a loco depot with a turntable, to run all my loco's. The size is 8ftx2ft 2x4ftx2ft boards, the scenic area being 6ft with a 1ft sector plate leading to storage sidings making the hole length 8ftwith the legs folding up underneath. It will be operated by DCC with MERG DCC control system, the points will operated by servo motors with MERG servo boards, these will not be DCC operated but using toggle switch's with frog polarity from these switch's. The turntable will be operated by a stepper motor with the electrics from MERG again. The track work will be hand built with C&L components but not the sleeper, I will be cutting the sleepers from 1mm thick plywood with my bandsaw. I drew the track plane on templot not an easy program to master.

     

    post-3746-0-04927400-1445531571_thumb.jpg

    This is the track plane done on Templot, as you can see the sector plate is on the left with the storage sidings from the sector plate and the turntable on the right.

     

     

     

    post-3746-0-14263000-1445528724_thumb.jpg

     

    post-3746-0-37774800-1445528739_thumb.jpg

     

    post-3746-0-48941900-1445528758_thumb.jpg

    The well on this board is for the sector plate. I will be using draw runners layed flat.

     

    post-3746-0-71688000-1445528783_thumb.jpg

     

    post-3746-0-50607900-1445528808_thumb.jpg

    These two photos are printed from templot layed on top of the boards.

    post-3746-0-02943000-1445528837_thumb.jpg

     

    I picked the name as I was a fireman at Feltham back in the 60s till closure. I put the name road in the name as it is not the plane of Feltham its self, and it would be to big for the size to get in the car. so I did my own plane and called it Feltham Road.


  13. Yard Shunter
    Yard Shunter

    Hi

    I was inspired by Mudmagnet's Orchard Road layout as I was helping him out at Exeter M.R.Show in June 4th/5th 2011.

    I am thinking of making a shunting layout of two boards at 4ftx2ft (8ftx2ft) with plywood on a frame of 2inx1in and the legs will fold up underneath and will be put together as one module to go into a family car. The underlay will be laminate floor foam underlay 3mm thick, and I will be useing C+L point work and track on wooden sleepers, which I was inspired by Darren1 with imperil potteries. The control will be DCC by NCE Power Cab,I already have on my layout in the loft.

    The idea I have with this layout is a freight train come's on scene and a diesel shunter will take the train off of the locomotive which will go of scene light engine, so the shunting begins, shunting the loaded wagons and making a train of emptys, a freight train comes in again and the shunter takes the train of the loco and the loco goes onto the emptys and takes them away,then more shunting.


  14. Hayfield's blogg
    Hayfields turnout workbench

    I have been asked to build a couple of P4 turnouts, in a GWR style. I have not been given much prototype details or specifications.

     

    Its a bit of a mix of C&L and Exactoscale parts. 2 bolt chairs are the order of the day, but neither C&L or Exactoscale do 2 bolt slide chairs. In addition I will be using the Exactoscale check rail chairs and switch chairs for the additional detail they provide. All 3 types of chair are 4 bolt, so I will endeavour to splice in 2 bolt chair parts. I will also use small and bridge chairs where appropriate.

     

    I do have several photos of a GWR turnout on the Seven Valley Railway, which I will use as a guide. It has had some chairs replaced which are 3 or 4 bolt, but in obvious places where a standard 2 bolt would be used

     

    post-1131-0-96544100-1340144909_thumb.jpg

     

    Standard build, plan is stuck to a building board, tracing paper taped over it. Sleepers held down by thin double sided tape. The common crossing has just been assembled.

     

    post-1131-0-14833500-1340145071_thumb.jpg

     

    Where ever possiable I start with the common crossing first, then the stock rail. The stock rail has the standard 2 bolt chairs fitted and glued to rhe sleepers. Normally the check rail chairs (with the checkrail fitted) and some of the special switch chairs would also be threaded on to the stockrail at the same time. But as these special chairs are 4 bolt I will be using the middle parts and splicing the outer parts of 2 bolt chairs on to the sleepers.

     

    You can see half way along the stockrail I have notched a cut in the railhead and soldered an a fishplate under the cut, I ahve also put a joggle in the stockrail where the switch rail touches the stockrail

     

    Anyway this one is keeping me on my toes, as I am planning forward what needs to be done and when.


  15. TTS in Bachmann diesels
    Fitting twin track sound to Bachmann 47

    When fitting TTS into 21 pin locos I have been using TCS 1358 adapters.

     

    You have to solder the wires onto the tabs but easy enough if you have a small tip on an 18w iron.

     

    Here's one I did the other day:

     

     

    post-17874-0-60338900-1520780544.jpg


  16. DLT blackening brass
    DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

    For larger and more complex shaped sub-assemblies a slightly different method is used to achieve the same result.  This time I scrub the whole thing vigorously with old-fashioned scouring powder (Ajax/Vim) using an old toothbrush.  This way you can get into all the nooks and crannies (well, nearly all) so that no area remains greasy or un-abraded.

     

    739701779_IMG_6096small.jpg.8dffe30b7c477ae96c2e77ab7ebf7563.jpg

     

    990502205_IMG_6100small.jpg.43144d6c08357c61e00dcb28fb024406.jpg

     

    1855610474_IMG_6103small.jpg.f64c8192b8c6fdcee3a9f7c474fb8a85.jpg

     

    Once done, I rinse and brush as much off as I can under the tap, and put it straight into the Ultrasonic Cleaner.  After a few minutes in there, (its amazing how much more crud comes off)  I dry it quickly with kitchen roll and then straight into the blackening fluid.  I have a 250ml bottle of Carrs Metalblack for Brass, and I pour it into a jam-jar for the purpose.  The jam-jar allows you to dunk half the assembly in for a few seconds, then turn it over and do the other end.  I also use a small paintbrush to agitate it and generally brush over any "tide" marks, or areas that are a bit slower to blacken.  Then its quickly into water to stop the reaction and rinse off. 

     

    1164236413_IMG_6129small.jpg.29ddbb81e69ed00566587c4c7d9506a6.jpg

     

    It goes without saying that once the cleaning is done, avoid touching the metal, or at least the visible bits of the model, the last thing you want is greasy fingerprints on the metal.  You will get a bit of black powdery residue on the brass, also a white powder on the solder joints, but these are easily brushed off in the water.  Once dried (more kitchen-roll) it should look something like this:

     

    1543762383_IMG_6106small.jpg.db837303b568071552279b66f67674b7.jpg

     

    1338251063_IMG_6108small.jpg.406507f5cacf6c84dea11d71644d16a6.jpg

     

    Below I have poured a little of the solution into a small container (35mm Slide Case) for blackening long thin components like handrails and reversing rod.

     

    1608928469_IMG_6114small.jpg.b7195778e819d0fd3062904d1f292efa.jpg

     

    I hope this is useful,

    Cheers, Dave.


  17. Westhill wagon works
    Hunt Coupling System

    Looks like the magnet polarity issue has NOW been resolved by Hunt Couplings with the introduction of the Hunt Couplings Elite for OO (27-06-20).  https://www.westhillwagonworks.co.uk/couplings-new-c-2/hunt-couplings-elite-oo-gauge-new-c-21/

     

    I saw this review video, which is a bit long winded, but it shows what the new Elite version with a square magnet looks like and how it works.

     

     

    So now it is possible, with this version, to swap any vehicle around and the couplings will still work!  I think this is a very cleaver solution.

     

    I do not think they will be backwards compatible with the round versions as I am guessing the magnet polarity is now sideways rather than NSNS.

     

    This is my guess at how it works and it is why Nymondeum cube magnets can be staked.

     

    1442442718_hUNT1.jpg.0d2b29a0e5f358fc046efe29f7957dd0.jpg

     

    A good development I think.

     

    And taking the dimensions from the Shop website, we now get these NEM to NEM offset.  Note that there is a new Intermediate version.

     

    image.png.68429cf8373a24ba1b6cd104601624a7.png

     

     

     

     


  18. Loco builds
    Bryan the Snail's workbench.
    On 09/06/2017 at 17:33, Tony Teague said:

    These two L1's were built for me some time ago, and I'd now want to have included the lamp brackets which are conspicuous by their absence and need adding. Otherwise, they are nice models.

     

    Let me know if pictures of L's, H's or R1's would be of interest!

     

    Tony

     

    Thanks Tony, I am considering buying a etched set of lamp brackets for the L1, PDK supply some staples to be cut up and used for making the brackets, but having fitted the etched ones to the H and the R1 they do look good although a bit fiddly to fit.

     

    Today I have started one of the L's and managed to get the first four parts soldered together: -

    Imgp3122.jpg.8d16cc5bbb891b3f40b8613ae81e0222.jpg

     

    Next is the chassis, I will be trying out the Poppy's Wood Tech chassis builder box I bought.


  19. Errol Surman - was owner 247
    247 Developments new wagon kits Jan 2024

    An simple internet search turns up this reference to a RMweb thread.

     

    http://rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4110

     

    which contains the following information;

     

    Contact : Errol Surman
    Address : 18 Glyn Close, Barwell, Leicester, LE9 8GL
    Telephone No. 01455 843212 


  20. Cab interior paint
    DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit
    On 04/08/2020 at 21:10, Jack P said:

    Dave, you might've seen that i've been busy at work the last few days and re-read your thread (for the umpteenth time). To me, some real standouts, among all of the high quality builds you've done are the E5x and the A12. Absolutely phenomenal job!

     

    Thanks very much Jack, I'm glad you find it useful.  I lost count of the many hundred "Likes" you have added, you will wear out the button!

     

    On 04/08/2020 at 21:10, Jack P said:

    I have to ask, how on earth do you get the cream interiors of you cabs so consistent and even? I find that even with multiple coats of brush painted cream, mine just doesn't have the same coverage. Yours looks thick, without being so thick as to lose detail - if you get my drift?

     

    My recippe for cab interior cream has been a bit "trial and error".  I haven't found a single paint that looks correct, so I've experimented with a bit of mixing.  The're all Humbrol, and the three I've used are 63 Sand, 103 Cream, and 121 Pale Stone.  The colour card shows my mixes of one with another in equal amounts, and at the bottom, all three.  Even though these matt paints are fairly thick, it usually takes three coats minimum to build up a solid colour over grey primer .  White primer would probably be better.

     

    775063325_IMG_6252small.jpg.162c9ebd4811c9fc73dae837abb001cc.jpg

     

    993899249_IMG_6248small.jpg.b255be3cb332ff5b604036b467e1f88b.jpg

     

    The colours don't look quite right in the photo, that piece of card should be white.

     

    Hope this helps!

    Cheers, Dave.

     

     


  21. Turnout clearances & standards
    Relative merits of different track component brands
    11 minutes ago, down the sdjr said:

    Hi Martin,

    I don't want to de-rail the thread but i have a question please. I have just started using Templot and what a great thing it is, thank you.

    I have started printing out single points for my plan but i am unsure what gauge i should be using. I plan to run 00 gauge RTR all newish models none older than say 12 years, Bachmann, Hornby etc, would it be 00-BF ? I don't want to start building to find out I'm using the wrong one.

     

    Thanks Paul.

     

    A. If you are using only RTR models (with original wheels) you have a choice of 00-BF, 00-BRMSB, DOGA-Intermediate, or 00-SF (4-SF).

     

    The first three are all 16.5mm track gauge.

     

    00-BF (1.3mm flangeways) is the option of choice for easiest building and widest tolerance to different RTR models. 2-slot 15.2mm check rail gauges available from C&L. thumb_smiley.gif

     

    00-BRMSB (1.25mm flangeways) is traditional "Scale 00" from the 1950s -- multi-slot roller gauges available from Markits.

     

    DOGA-Intermediate (1.2mm flangeways) is DOGA's modern equivalent of 00-BRMSB -- multi-slot roller gauges available from DOGA.

     

    00-SF 16.2mm track gauge (1.0mm flangeways) is an increasingly popular finer standard which looks better but may require care over some RTR wheel back-to-back settings (but mostly not), and needs larger radii than train-set curves. 2-slot roller gauges available from C&L. 2-slot 15.2mm check rail gauges available from C&L. thumb_smiley.gif   

     

    B. If you are mixing RTR wheels with kit wheels such as Markits/Gibson/Ultrascale, your only sensible choice is 00-SF (4-SF).

     

    C. Whatever else you choose, avoid DOGA-Fine at all costs, as every wheelset would need to have the back-to-back adjusted -- multi-slot roller gauges available from DOGA and C&L.

    ________________________

     

    Summarising all that waffle -- the most important consideration is the availability of 2-slot 15.2mm check rail gauges. Multi-slot roller gauges are the traditional way of trackbuilding, but in my view they should all be chucked in the bin, they are an absolute pain to use to build accurate properly checked crossings.   

     

    That means the sensible choices are 00-BF for the easiest build and no worries about even some older RTR models. Or 00-SF if you want the better appearance of the narrower flangeways and/or think you might one day build kit models. (00-SF is also called 4-SF in Templot).

     

    cheers,

     

    Martin.


  22. Explanation
    Starting in OO-SF C&L Track Questions and Shopping list...

    Not correct. Any 3 point gauge if used correctly has no choice but incorporate gauge widening in proportion to radius by design. The distance between the rails is irrelevant. Putting the single point of the triangle on the outer rail and fixing the inner rail between the two other points will work for any gauge unless of course the principles of geometry have gone wrong.

     

    Rex

     

    As Martin has said the OP is going to build in 00SF not any of the other 00 gauge variants, neither have I said the gauge will not gauge widen the track when used

     

    If its an 00 (16,5) 3 point gauge, its no good for 00SF.

     

    In 00SF you may need a 3 point gauge to widen the gauge if the radii falls below 30", If an 00 3 point gauge is used it would widen the gauge too much for 00SF. Many who build 00ST track have no need for a 3 point gauge as their smallest radii is larger than the radii which would need widening

     

    Standard 00 gauge does not require gauge widening, as this is taken into consideration in the design of the 00 gauge standards.

     

    The problem is that there are a few 00 gauge variants and you must use the correct gauge for the appropriate variant and size of rail being used, and to complicate matters further some gauges are not plastic chair compatible. As said standard 00 gauge requires no gauge widening due to the RTR design principals agreed 70 odd years ago. If using 00SF or DOGA fine then in certain circumstances gauge widening may be needed

     

    Un like P4, EM and 00SF which requires gauge widening once the radii reduces below a specified radii (should have added DOGA fine)

     

    There tends to be some a bit of confusion and cross pollination of information between what you need in which gauge and also which building process you use. Add this to what can be said to be limited understanding of some retailers and in some cases selling incompattable products (both gauges and components). 

     

    Also in certain instances some gauges will work in other gauges, a 1 mm wing rail gauge is fine for ))SF, DOGE fine and EM gauges. An 00SF check rail gauge will also work equally well with 00 Universal. A code 75 bullhead roller gauge will also work with code 82 flatbottom rail, but a code 82 flatbottom gauge will not work on code 75 bullhead rail

     

    Then I have built a simple a jig to allow an EM wing rail alignment guide to work when building an 00SF common crossing sub-assembly. It would also work for DOGA fine. (But does not work for building in situ)  


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