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  • Location
    : Places, that I go
  • Interests
    Computing, networking, a bit of software design. I mostly have an N gauge collection but I always seem too distracted to lay track and run it!

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  1. maq1988

    Life goes on

    I'm sure like the rest of your locos the Class 14 will be well worth the wait - and from the metal shown above well worth the weight!
  2. GDPR/DPA bits aside - I'd be interested in knowing how 'they' got your (cctransuk) contact details to advertise such service in the first place? Somehow they know you are interested in model railways and they've got your email address to mail to.
  3. Thanks ISW, however I've ordered the boards today - your carpentry skills hugely overshadow mine. I'm modelling N and I've found the size of the track is not forgiving for bumps over joints. Stock flies everywhere! I've found the 14mm x 88mm timbers I've used for bracing and edges just aren't matching up flush enough. I know the tablesaw I've cut the ply tops on has a wobble in the blade now! My railway has stalled for a year because I'm just not happy with the boards. I've gone for some extra to make the main raised storage area, three reasons for this 1. They'll be level and true, 2. They are at the rear of the layout which is against the wall, making it impossible to easily reach over. This requires turning the boards (which at 4x3ft isn't easy by oneself) for work, 3. This allows me to build the storage lines on completely separate boards somewhere easy to wire. I'll then bolt those to the main baseboard The rest of the loop will run on foam allowing me to create the landscape, it's a two track main line with a small branch junction so nothing complex.
  4. I had considered that, but I've always found the softwood to have a slight bow to it (which is the problem with my current baseboards) so the gap between the boards ends up wider than I'd like at the rails. However if the actual boards are flat as flat can be then I should be able to do something. I did also consider insetting a bit of ply into the foam at the joins and gluing it with something like gorilla glue. I could use a piece of thick ply upright - it only needs to be 1ft wide by 3 inches tall (to track base height). I'm also considering having the raised storage section built into the boards if places will take custom orders. Martin
  5. Said it before, I'll say it again. It's really good to see wagons taken care of so much, for those like me who enjoy the freights at galas. Hopefully will get to come back down to Quorn at some point to see the hard work in the flesh. In all the pictures of real and model brake vans I've never seen any with yellow markings so I've learnt something new.
  6. Thanks for everyone's input. I've reached out to those three companies and I'll see what comes back. Hopefully the sizes I'm after are fairly standard. I've just noticed the slight difference in metric v. imperial so I may end up a 10-20mm shorter. No major issue. Still - anyone using the Woodland scenics risers how do you maintain alignment across the board joins?
  7. I'll reach out to Grange and Hodder. Thankfully I think my requirements are quite simple - two boards 1200x900 and another board 800x900. Making a total run of 3200 x 900 with the smallest board in the middle. I feel my current baseboards aren't good enough and it's putting a stop for me continuing.
  8. For those who use Woodland Scenic risers (something I'd forgot existed as I wouldn't use the inclines), how do you go about baseboard joins? My normal method is copper clad sleepers either side of the join. What do you do? If you use copper clad how do you attach it to the foam to stop it from moving? I normally pin mine. Also - given Tim seems to have more than enough on his plate does anyone know of other similar baseboard manufacturers? I'd rather not go for traditional softwood runners as I've always found these to never really align neatly. Martin
  9. I'll send over a quick email. I've not fully decided on the positions of the trackwork just yet apart from I know I'll have the 1 foot wide storage area at the rear. It's only a basic scene of trains running through countryside so a nice gentle sweep, no stations to mess with.
  10. I wasn't sure what to search for or where to post, so please move / point out any threads similar. I'm not good at carpentry and I've been looking at getting some laser cut baseboards for my N gauge layout. I've already got some home-made boards but they aren't great. One thing I'd like is the track work to be elevated by a decent amount (3 inches) above the natural flat top of the boards. How are people achieving this with laser cut boards and getting the trackbed joins at the right heights throughout and at joins. My current efforts is a thin ply trackbed on 3' risers but it's not quite as precise as I'd like. I've not found any 'riser kits' that are laser cut. (Quick edit: my boards are likely to be 2ft 6inches x 4ft and three boards in length. It's a chaser layout with a 1ft x 4ft space at the rear for the storage lines. I did wonder if getting some 1ft x 4ft boards to go on top of the 'base' layer and then cut some of those down to make the thinner trackbed in the remaining front (scenic) area. Seemed a bit wasteful) Martin
  11. My desk doesn't make for the greatest photo background. Close ups do look a little cruel. From a foot away the body side text is almost impossible to read, I can't comment on how accurate the livery detailing is but it makes a nice addition to the collection.
  12. I'd forgotten I had pre-ordered this. Oops. That'll be expensive. I hope that as the 'pre-order' isn't actually an order and more of an expression of interest that Dapol don't have the bottom fall out with people backing out at the last moment. Having a few hundred sitting around for a HST-P rake might not be realistic right now. (Although people shouldn't overstretch themselves for a model)
  13. Thanks for the info, the cuts look really clean. Does the 2mm art board go through your silhouette cutter or was it all done by hand?
  14. Hi Richard, The new 'lot' / industrial space looks much better. Can I ask what you are using as the main layers of your industrial units? Looks like it's thin MDF or very very thick card?
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