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  1. Hi Andi, Thanks for the link - lots of very useful detail information there. Yes if they were for me I'd go with Jaffa livery I do have some to build for myself but they are the unrefurbished version from Britannia Pacific - so will be in Blue & Grey. However I will be doing some Jaffa 4-CEPs before much longer. Your Jaffa unit looks very nice - how did you deal with the aluminium window frames? All the best Stuart
  2. Hi Cheesysmith, I wondered whether anyone would notice that. In fact I've already been in discussion with Worsley Works about it and I'm waiting for replacement etches to arrive for the TSOs. I've got two more plastic bodies already prepped and it'll be a simple substitution. The two vehicles that I take out (which are actually suitable as 4-CEP trailers in their current configuration) will be reused in a preserved Hastings unit 1001, and in one of the Connex '3D' units that had a CEP trailer inserted. In fact, I don't think there are any Clacton Units I could correctly make up with the existing vehicles because (from the evidence I've seen at least) all of the units where the TSO retained the end toilet are also the ones with a pantograph directly above the driver's cab - i.e. the ex-2 car versions. Best regards Stuart
  3. So that's pretty much up to date now - the vehicles have had their first coat of paint and I've just started masking up for the NSE livery.
  4. So now it's on to the nightmare that is Revised Network SouthEast livery. Something that's in my mind is that the unpainted aluminium window frames are going to be very prominent against the dark blue, so I have to decide how I'm going to deal with that. The window frames are identical to those in a refurbished 4-CEP (as in the image) and I do have some very nice etched stainless steel ones, produced by someone on here I think. Unfortunately though they're *just* too small for the apertures in the 309 etches. It's literally a hair's breadth, but in this context that's all it takes. I think the original poster did say that he would make the drawings for the stainless steel etches available so if I can find the post again I'll see if it's possible to obtain them, and get some more etched that are just a tiny bit bigger.
  5. I've done a bit more work in the pantograph area now. As mentioned before it was difficult to find roof images and those that I did find showed, as is often the case, that there were inconsistencies both in the content of the pantograph well and in the positioning and number of ventilators. As the units were built in different versions and have undergone a fair bit of reformation and vehicle substitution, it was no surprise. This is what I've ended up with, although I do now suspect that all of it should have been mounted on a separate rectangular frame.
  6. I was lucky to be able to take them for a test run on the layout of the Chatham and District Model Railway Club - performance of the Replica Chassis was very good indeed.
  7. Here's something that I'd never thought of. I recently built a No Nonsense Kits 2-EPB and the supplied diagram that showed where all the ventilators and other roof detail went was in the form of a scale size sticker, so you could just stick it to the roof and drill through. A quick trawl online and I obtained some A4 sized repositionable labels, so now I can make my own stickers for the same purpose. I actually drew a template in Photoshop which includes the edges, centre line and a grid, and now I can just print them off and draw in all the detail positions with a pen, then detach it from the backing paper and stick it on. Do make sure you use repositionable labels though as the permanent ones will be difficult to get off again and will leave adhesive everywhere. A bonus is that the paper helps to stop the drill from slipping as you start off the hole.
  8. The pantograph well is just a matter of a couple of vertical cuts in the roof down to the rainstrips, with a plastic card floor. I had a couple of pantograph well ends in stock - I think they might have been from Britannia Pacific models - so for one unit I could use those and for the other I used plastic card. The pantographs are probably not exactly the correct pattern but they're what I had available. Roof detail shots of 309s are not that easy to find.
  9. The printed cab ends include the first inch or so of the bodysides, which is also present on the etches. so the etches have to be shortened to suit. It's very straightforward - the etches need to be cut down the first door line. I am not sure whether the cab ends were designed with any particular manufacturer's Mk1s in mind, but I imagine it might be Bachmann. They weren't a bad fit with the Replica ones though - it just takes some time and patience to get the best fit you can. One of them was more troublesome than the other three for some reason, and on that one I ended up sanding off the rainstrips and re-instating them with a single piece that wrapped around the end.
  10. The bodies are fixed to the chassis by three clips along each side. These are very deep and the bodies have to be massively flexed to get them on and off - this is fine as they are because the plastic is particularly soft and pliable, but it wont be possible to bend them enough once the brass sides are fixed on. What I do is remove the end ones pretty much altogether, and reduce the central ones down to 1mm or so. It's still enough to hold the bodies on and it's (hopefully!) not like any model of a 309 is going to be handled in the same way as an off the shelf plastic model might be. A little strip of plastic stuck into the sides (near the ends) where the top of the chassis will be is plenty to locate it and stop the chassis pushing up inside.
  11. The first step is to remove all the raised detail from the plastic coach bodies, then enlarge all of the window apertures so that the gaps correspond to the windows in the etched sides. It's worth spending a bit of time comparing the bodyshells you have with the etches in various combinations, to determine which arrangement will require the least cutting. This is a process that takes great care - the plastic is soft but quite thick, especially below the window line and a new, sharp blade makes it easier. This is actually one of my least favourite jobs in all of modelmaking. I also remove all of the roof detail at this stage, including the moulded ribs which are too prominent on most r-t-r Mk1s, except of course for those that don't have them at all.
  12. Hi all, Following on from the 4VEP thread earlier in the week, here is the progress with the project to build an 8-car Clacton Express, class 309, in revised Network SouthEast livery. This is for a friend of mine who lives in Colchester and commuted on them every day; some while back he sold me a couple of kits that he thought he would never get around to (a 6-car TransPennine DMU and a 6-car Swindon InterCity DMU) at a knock down price, so I decided to make the Clacton Units for him. The main parts are: Mk 1 donor coaches from the current Replica Railways models range. These are available from the manufacturer for a good price, along with lots of other useful parts for this conversion. Etched Brass Sides from Worsley Works 3D-printed cab ends by PH Designs - they are very fine indeed and available from Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/product/PG5TYVCEF/309-cab3?optionId=57069592&li=marketplace This is the one for units with a pantograph well directly above the cab and with the later style of cab window, but the other versions are available too. Replica Railways motorised chassis. Pics in the next post....
  13. Thanks CloggyDog. I'd never actually noticed the absence of commode handles - so there was a real danger that I would have fitted them in blissful ignorance. Thanks for pointing it out! Yes I think I'm going to go with 9' 0" at the waist. The picture above from Bristol_Rich does seem to show the taper quite well. If you hold a pencil vertically against the screen, carefully aligned with the outer edge of either cab window, it's evident how the other side of the pencil is not parallel with the bodyside. It's a very tiny taper though - in 4mm scale probably no more than ¾mm either side. All the best, Stuart
  14. Thanks Graham. The project is paused at the moment until I finish the Clacton Units - not too far to go with those now. All the best Stuart
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