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  • Monaco Toulouse streaming live 23/08/2013
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  • DelticChris' Blog
  • Due to actions by the RMWeb team, who decided to support the toxicity of @woodenhead and "punish" me by deleting all the images I've uploaded, this content has been redacted.
  • 1950s SR layout -
  • mikethebike2's Blog
  • Crawley Yard - N Gauge Modern Layout
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  • Change of direction to APA storage boxes.
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  • IanLister's Blog....Port Mhorair 2FS
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  • MrDodo8449
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  • Harrys 1st layout
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  • KingsCross layout
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  • Snitchthebudgie's ESNG Blog
  • Triang 2NOL conversion.
  • Steve's Secret 7mm Wagon Blog
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  • My Layout - Fictional 1930s GWR
  • DB 999508 - A PH.Designs Kit.
  • St Albans Abbey in P4
  • A "Wills Finecast" SR N Class
  • mickey9's Blog
  • Mountain's Blog
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  • Converting a BCK into Test Coach 6 "Promethius"
  • Ray Penna Lane TMD's Blog
  • Greenfields GWR layout
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  • Oh no! Not another GWR Terminus layout
  • Horrid Hill
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  • The Pier Railway
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  • thesteambuff's Blog
  • richierich's Blog / D&E WIP Workbench . . .
  • bob liddle's Blog
  • Ken D's Blog
  • Monon
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  • Black 5's Blog
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  • Model Railways Unlimited Video Blog
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  • Harton and Hopeguard BR 1960's Layout
  • Bodmin Bob's Blog
  • Swifty11Productions YouTube spotting outings blog!
  • er1950's Blog
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  • Penborne locomotive works
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  • In the Works
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  • Clachbeg
  • Clachbeg: base and scenery
  • St Blasien
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  • The EMpire Project
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  • Fictious train liverys
  • Ambridge - the rolling stock.
  • valey mike's Blog
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  • The Trial of Sir Topham Hatt
  • Ebbw Junction
  • Clachbeg: trackwork
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  • Jubilee Point
  • Montgomery01's Blog
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  • Ashbridge blog
  • North London Railway in 7mm
  • North London Railway in 7mm
  • Clachbeg: history
  • Beckton Light Railway
  • 46444's Zillertahlbahn Blog
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  • Dublo-nutz
  • Elmton & Creswell c1936
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  • Fatface blog
  • Building Treviddo Viaduct
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  • Glenrothes model railway show
  • tjunction's Blog
  • Shipston-on-Stour Branch
  • thesteambuff's Blog
  • knapper's workbench
  • Ideas for starting off 1st large layout! (cheap)
  • thesteambuff's Blog
  • The outcast modelling Blog
  • Black 5 Bear's Blog
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  • A Wellingborough Fireman
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  • Feltenham mk 3
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  • This is the slow train, crossing the border - a European Travel(b)log
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  • Hellier Train Care
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  • Thinking Inside The Box
  • S H Model Making
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  • I 'ad that
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  • Chris B's Blog
  • Andrew Crosland's 2mm Finescale Adventure
  • 57 Varieties - a photoblog
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  • Penstemon
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  • Jammerborg
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  • bgman's Blog
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  • thesteambuff's Blog
  • Ade's Blog
  • MERG Stepper Motor Turntable
  • Halton Boy's Blog
  • RAY NORWOOD's Blog
  • Sawbridgeworth Model Railway Exhibition
  • LMS/S&D Suburban two coach set
  • One man`s Meat Van is another man`s childhood
  • Jon's DCC Train Set
  • COLE project 4. S&D / LMS 2P 4-4-0 ( ex No 45 )
  • Amalgamated Wagon Works 7mm
  • Baseboards and electrics for COLE.
  • GWR Metro 7mm. The last ever white metal kit
  • COLE project 5. laying the track and wiring up
  • GWR Standard wooden halt in 7mm
  • A Shell Out On Tanks
  • A Jinty for COLE
  • COLE project 6. The Buildings.
  • les1roy's Blog
  • virginhst539's Blog
  • Little Salop
  • Shark from an LMS 20T brake van
  • Ken Anderson's Blog
  • Small O Gauge Layout with C&L track work
  • Fal Vale
  • Martin Hartley's Blog
  • Variants of Q....
  • Rotherham Masborough
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  • Broxfield's Blog
  • Goosehill Central
  • DCC SOUND
  • On The Workbench
  • Detailing an old Tri-ang coach
  • Sandhole's Blog
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  • Alight here for Broomielaw
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  • When You Don't Like What You See....Make it Yourself
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  • ANOTHER Challenge!
  • Hackney Graham Road
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  • Original Hornby Model Railway Cabinets
  • Original Hornby Model Cabinets
  • Middleton Station and Goods Yard
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  • Three Shire's Head
  • Going into O Guage 7mm modelling
  • Operation Abyss
  • leaving the station "67"
  • ROSSPOP`s Inspiration
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  • 1
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  • Remembrance Of Trains Past
  • A Present Shared
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  • Mk1 Pullman Formations
  • a range of unique rolling stock
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  • Viessmann semaphore/DCC Concepts motor
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  • Old AGWI Road - An oil refinery in 1:76 scale
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  • Lofty
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  • 3 fields railway and Gerry's workbench
  • Hope Park Junction
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  • The Titfield Railway
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  • Ray Penna Lane TMD's Blog
  • Last chant for the slow dance.
  • Area 51
  • North Eastern LNER Branch Line Terminus - First time builder
  • TDMRC Northwick
  • Strive for progress, not perfection.
  • OTrail's Blog
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  • Stegleitz German Z Gauge Modern
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  • Oakhampton too Ullapool
  • Ropley and other projects oo gauge
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  • TF1
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  • A SOUND INVESTMENT from 4mm to 7mm
  • bazjones1711's Blog
  • BG John's Assorted Projects Workbench
  • Nick Mitchell's Erecting Shop
  • MoretonChris' Blog
  • building buildings
  • Tweedale Layout Blog
  • Douglas Stewart
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  • FreemO
  • The Blog of Clapford
  • Empty Blog
  • Shaunbachdorf
  • Blair Line Diner
  • unused blog
  • Improving Slaters wheels
  • the loco shed's Blog
  • the old s&d's Blog
  • New Solway Island
  • pevenstike's Blog
  • Dagenham Factory
  • Sarsden. Rosspop`s GWR Terminus diorama.
  • Chase Hill
  • Rowsley17D's Blog
  • Pigwife007's Blog
  • Clovelly Road
  • d4ve12's Blog
  • gwrcollet's Blog
  • Bullied34039's Blog
  • jonas' 00 gauge blog
  • 5&9Models' Blog
  • Miker's Blog
  • Oake
  • Kilve station
  • Oake. Taunton to Barnstaple line
  • Stevethomas6444's modelling blog.
  • technohand's Blog
  • jackjack's Blog
  • Brilliant service from EXPRESSMODELS
  • A2Trimbush's Blog
  • Lulworth Cove
  • Stoke Summit My Next layout.
  • Cambrian 440 Project
  • Veen's Blog
  • Keswick & Greta Gorge
  • Green Street
  • x
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  • rose regis
  • x
  • Outdoor 0 Gauge in France
  • bazjones1711's Blog
  • F E Lewis' Blog
  • x
  • Jon's Lego Train Blog
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  • Chiltern Silver Service
  • johnd's Blog
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  • xveitch's blog
  • x
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  • Aberffraw
  • x
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  • West Highland Line V3
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  • Warrensleigh Works' Blog
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  • Shall I ? Or Shan`t I ? re-visit an eleven year old project ...
  • Dlouth1's Blog
  • Crooked Lane MPD
  • Perseverence Kit. LMS Push-Pull Coach
  • HOOCH32MINKY's Blog
  • Hypertrophic- MAZAK- Arthropathy !!
  • lumpey1's Blog
  • Building A Piece Of Modern History: Thurmond WV
  • Bobcat64's Blog
  • thurso
  • On Rails through City Streets
  • Gloucester Model Railway Club HO Project
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  1. Several years ago there was a conversation at Scaleforum (you know the one, I suggested to Brassmasters that they should produce an Easichas kit for a Hornby J15, they said great, go on and do the artwork then), now there is a kit available for purchase. The kit follows the usual Easichas principles utilising the existing Hornby motor and drive and providing new fold-up side frames and hornblocks to give springing on all axles. The kit can be built to either EM or P4 gauge. Replacement coupling rods are provided and brake gear on both the locomotive and tender can be removed to allow the wheels to be dropped out. The result is a sweat, smooth running locomotive. For details including a view of the etches and instructions take a look at the Brassmasters' site at http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/J15_easichas.htm To celebrate I made a little video following the progress of the pickup goods as it shunts at Clare. It has been a fun process working with the Brassmasters' guys on my first Easichas kit. I hope that it gives some people the impetus to convert their Hornby locomotives to EM and P4. thanks David
  2. When Hornby announced that they were producing a J15 I was very happy. A favourite locomotive read-to-run and an excuse to get a second to go along side my kit build model Alan Gibson. Edit 16/8/19 - Work on the J15 EasiChas has now made progress see later blog entry here https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/22523-j15-chassis-kit-design/ Initial inspection gave the impression of a nicely made model but the more I looked at it the more I felt disappointed. What on earth made them get the handrails so wrong! Instead of the handrail knobs sticking out of the boiler at the perpendicular they were horizontal. For no apparent reason someone had decided in the design process to add completely erroneous little mounting points on the boiler and then make the handrail knobs stick out of them horizontally. I can't even see a manufacturing reason for making this design choice, why would the boiler be easier/cheaper to make with the holes horizontal? It doesn't seem to be a mistake which has occurred on other similar models in the Hornby range. I just couldn't satisfy myself that 'it looked alright' and so the locomotive has sat in the drawer for over a year while I wondered what to do about it. The problem was how to re-drill the holes for the knobs in the right place and at the right angle in Mazak, which is horrible material to drill. I clearly needed some kind of jig, but it would have to be a complicated shape to hold a drill at the right angle. Using a combination of measurements from the works drawing which I had from the Gibson kit and measurements from the Hornby model I came up with a shape which could be bolted over the footplate which holds a brass tube at the correct angle. The opposite side of the jig is also angled so, when you put it on the bench the hole to drill is vertical. The two parts are held together by a pair of M4 bolts and the 3D printed material is strong yet soft enough not to damage the foot plate when clamped together. The original handrail was removed carefully and it was clear that it was a very nicely made unit. The knobs are pretty much scale and it can be reused as is. It took a little effort to pull it out from the boiler but a little bit of card to protect the boiler followed by using a scalpel blade as lever go it off without damaging either the rail or the boiler. Filing off the support 'bumps' was harder as several of them are quite near detail such as the washout plugs which you want to retain. The positioning along the boiler was done with a set of vernier calipers, measuring the distance from the front of the cab to the handrail hole and the subtracting half the width of the jig. Drilling was horrible. The Mazak is a very hard material and I only had some nasty cheap .5mm drill bits. After several hours (and several broken bits!) I swapped to a decent Carbon Steel .45 drill bit from Eileen's Emporium and things became much easier. The hole which I'd 3D printed in the jig for the drill was sleeved with a short length of 1mm external - .5mm internal tube. Once I'd drill the initial pilot hole the piece of brass tube was removed and the holes enlarged to .75mm to take the handrail knobs. A little bit of filling was required on the original holes. With the handrail back in place I've just brush painted a little black on to cover up the work, the finish is better than the photo makes it look but I'll get the airbrush out to tone things down and blend the finishes together a bit more once the chassis has been rewheeled. To my eyes the handrail just looks so much better and I'm very pleased that it is still horizontal and in the right position vertically. (it lines up with the one on the cab side) and the boiler looks better without the extra mounting points which never existed on the prototype. I've purchased a conversion set from Alan Gibson to rewheel to Scalefour, There is a good guide to this on the Alan Gibson site at http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Hornby%20J15%20Conversion.pdf I'm not sure at the moment whether I can bush out the crankpin holes or if I would be better of drawing up and etching a new set of rods. Don't expect any rapid progress, but at least now I have the handrails sorted I can feel it is worthwhile. David Footnote - I apologise to all of you who have Hornby J15s and have been trying to convince yourselves that the handrails are ok
  3. The prototype J15 had 15 spoke 4'11" wheels. Unfortunately the nearest available from Alan Gibson in a 4'11" 16 spoke wheel or a 4'7" 15 spoke. Gibson sells a pack of the 4'11" 16 spoke wheels with 2mm axles as a conversion set for the Hornby J15 (which has 2mm axles) and on reflection the 4'7" really does look noticeably too small to me. The Brassmasters' sprung hornblocks come available as 1/8" or 3mm bore so my decision to use the conversion pack wheels meant I also had to use Gibson's 1/8 to 2mm bushes (part # 4M68). These soldered into the Brassmasters' hornblocks without difficulty and were a good tight fit. The Gibson wheels were of the design which doesn't have the crankpin hole fully molded/drilled - you just get a small dimple. The chassis will only run smoothly if all the crankpins are vertical to the wheels and the same distance from the centre of the axle. This is something which is pretty hard to achieve with just a drill in a pin vice and not much easier with a pillar drill unless you make some kind of jig. The jig just consists of a stub to mount the wheel on, this needs to be sliding fit so slightly smaller than the final axle size and an arm which has a hole through which the crankpin hole can be drilled. Using a bit of square tube means that the drill has two points held in place and will therefore drill at the same angle each time. Not very original or pretty, but functional. The shim on the right supports the wheel on its flange rather than it being supported on the plastic boss. Having made the jig I got 6 wheels fitted with crankpins. They may not be perfect, but if they are all equally imperfect things should at least run! I managed to get the wheels, bearing, extra washes to reduce sideplay and the original Hornby drive gear into the GW wheel quartering press and squeezed together. This is always a job I loath and it seems to always have a high 'F' factor but to my amazement I ended up with only slightly wobbly wheels. I've got to say that this is one of my least favourite jobs in locomotive construction! The coupling rods assembled together nicely with the joint being made using little rivets from Markits. The final rod pivoted easily but had no play in the joint. With the wheels in the chassis the crankpin holes in the rods were opened up with a broach to be just a fit for the Gibson crankpin bushes and amazingly the rods slid onto the crankpins and aligned well. One of the advantages of this type of chassis design is that you can assemble the whole unit as a rolling chassis and check for binds before fitting back over the original chassis block. I'm afraid I lost count of the number of crankpin nuts I Iost on the floor! The unit fitted nicely over the chassis block and because the Hornby tender can work temporarily with just a set of P4 wheels dropped in I was able to provide pickup to the motor via the tender to test the chassis. There are a few corrections to be made to the etch, at the moment the frames foul the footplate at one end so the body won't fit on quite correctly but getting something to move under its own power is always good for the motivation. There is a little clip on Youtube at https://youtu.be/QbPApw3bIyQ David
  4. The second test etch for the Easichas for the Hornby J15 arrived via Brassmasters. Once again a superb etching job by PPD. Most of the mistakes from the first etch were corrected, though there are a couple of minor changes to be made based on actually putting this together. I've also been putting together the instructions and one of the other Brassmasters has been attempting to follow them! I'm really happy with the way the basic chassis goes together and very pleased with the fold-up brake gear design which makes the brake hangers and brake blocks very easy to assemble. The chassis, coupling rods and brake gear went together well, I need to allow a gnat's* more clearance between the brake shoes and the wheels but that is easily corrected on the etch. The half-etch detail parts for the brake pull rods worked well to. The tender chassis needs some changes but I was able to make these physically with a piecing saw and virtually on the CAD drawing so that at least I was able to put it together to track down any other problems. The main loco chassis can be assembled and tested for rolling away from the Hornby body which is great for checking wheel quartering, clearances etc. The rods across the chassis for the brake gear get removed later allowing the brake gear to be removed and the wheels to be dropped out. The tender chassis is sprung with 'Continuous Springy Beams' and runs very nicely. I need to adjust the spring support points as the unit currently runs about .5mm low, but that is an easy fix on the drawing. The chassis disassembled nicely for priming and painting and all went back together again afterwards. I'm very pleased with the result which will be on the Brassmasters' stand at Scaleforum on Saturday. David * that is a British Standard Gnat, a little more than a smidgen but less than a bit.
  5. Well over a couple of years ago I asked my friends at Brassmasters about the possibility of them producing one of their EasiChas range of kits to fit the Hornby J15. These chassis utilize the original motor and chassis block put provide a method to fit EM or P4 wheels with some springing. The design has now covered a range of prototypes including various LMS, GWR and LNER locomotives. I have produced artwork for some of the Brassmasters range in the past (point rodding components and the original etched windows for the Scalescenes building range). These friendly 'non-commercial' arrangements have been great, I get the etches I want for my modeling and Brassmasters get an additional item to add to their range. I should probably have expected the response I got - 'go on and produce some artwork then'. I got a fair way through the design process with the help of the prototype drawings from the Great Eastern Railway Society, the CAD drawings for the 4F EasiChas from Brassmasters and a set of digital calipers run over the Hornby model. Progress was going quite well but was stalled somewhat (phantom understatement here) by a cancer diagnosis and eight cycles of chemotherapy. As a result I told Brassmasters not to expect anything from me. Fortunately the chemo did a good job and I was able to pick the project back up again, albeit slowly, to the point where the first test was produced last week. As with all test etches (the clue is in the name) there were a number of 'oh you idiot' moments where I realize that my drawing wasn't exactly what was in my head! This explains the strange missing bits of the brake assembly! Also, sometimes when you start to put things together, you find that some ideas were over-complex and/or difficult to build. In this case the reverse folds on the chassis etch were just too hard to bend. Still there were enough good parts to be able to start assembly on the locomotive chassis and I have now got as far as making the main chassis with the hornblocks and axles in place. I'd included a couple of two different designs for the coupling rods on the etch so I could see which was easiest to assemble. I think the version with just two thickness of nickel-silver will probably be what I go with. I like the fact that you can leave the tabs in place and bend them together which means that they stay put while you solder them together. Hopefully I should be able to get some P4 wheels into the chassis over the next day or two. A revised drawing for test2 is almost ready incorporating lots of changes based on what I've learnt so far. Thanks to the Brassmasters guys for their support and encouragement, particular to David Burton who has been having to deal with an email inbox full of dumb questions. I'll post more as the building progresses and announcements about the availability will be made via the Brassmasters website http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/index.html David
  6. Last Friday I had a particularly productive evening rewheeling my old Alan Gibson J15. The kit was built about 25 years ago (gulp) but had languished on the works sidings for a couple of years following the wheel quartering slipping and the wheels being so old that they were loose on the axles and no amount of locktite would hold them in place. So, finally I bit the bullet and ordered some new wheels from new Mr Gibson. The biggest problem with some of the wheels available from Colin at the moment is that the crank pin hole is not drilled through, there just a dimple as an aid to locate the hole. Friday gave the opportunity to use a friend's pillar drill (thanks Brian!) and with the aid of a little jig we drilled the holes in the wheels and got the crank pins put in. The wheels were quartered with the excellent jig (GW models). Saturday morning came the moment of truth when the bearings were slid into the chassis and the coupling rods put on crank pins. Much to my surprise and delight the chassis rolled away, and when the grub screw on the gear was tightened the loco moved smoothly. Tonight came DCC chip fitting, I had forgotten I had a TCS Z2 sitting in a drawer. It seems to be quite happy with the 1219 portescap and runs smoothly once I adjusted the CVs to give a more suitable speed range. David
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