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  1. @missy 's projects with the Proxxon mill are seriously impressive and inspiring. But I think on balance I'm a little reluctant to take on converting mine to CNC and making other tweaks to it that seem to follow from that - at least yet. One of the things that puts me off is the fact it seems like most routes to fitting the Proxxon mill with CNC preclude also using it manually anymore? However I have been wondering about getting one of the cheap Chinese "CNC Router" machines (always described by their bed size as 3018 or whatever) to play around with CNC cutting flat materials - es
  2. Hi Ian, Here is some recent discussion about UK bullhead practice from the Templot forum. There is no harm in using long timbers past the vee rail joints, but not if they would need to be longer than 15ft, which is the longest stock size, longer timbers are ordered as specials*. And a 15ft timber is more expensive than two ordinary sleepers, so used only if the gang happen to have such serviceable used long timbers to hand. It is also possible for two shorter timbers to spliced together on-site to make a longer one. Timbers are wider than sleepers, so there
  3. Hi Ian, Yes it is. Templot prints red trim lines on the templates for the very reason you explain. I can't speak for other software which relies on the printer feed for accuracy. cheers, Martin.
  4. Martin, Thanks for the information, but I'm assuming this is Templot specific? The software I used printed out my layout in tiled A4-sheets (as that's what my printer can use) with no overlaps, but did include registration marks and page numbers. I was therefore lining up the A4-sheets and not the printout. And thereby was the problem. If (when?) the printer didn't get the image 'exactly' central on the sheet of A4 it would cause a slight misalignment. Lesson learnt, as they say. I did use a strip of tape along the back of all joints, once I'd 'tacked' them
  5. Hi Ian, The secret to accurately aligned template pages is to print on thicker paper. Ordinary 80gsm office paper is not good for accurate track construction. I recommend 160gsm paper for Templot templates, which is almost a thin card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002YCH5OG It can be trimmed along the printed red lines on both pages. The edges can then be butted together on a flat surface in good alignment without overlaps, like laying tiles. A strip of adhesive tape along the join then sticks them together, and if needed another on the
  6. Thanks guys for the suggestions and help guys, much appreciated. In the true spirit of the A Team, I love it when a plan comes together! @polybear - Yes normally I'd agree, but in this case to be honest, I have been keeping the cost down by using what was spare in the garage (all part of a grand plan to empty the place!) so where it is raised up, its being supported with some packing underneath, and its screwed to 2" risers every few inches. One of the advantages is that part of it will drop down a grade, and the 3mm thickness, allows some flexibility over the summit without it h
  7. OK, so its been a couple of weeks since the last update, but i have not been idle. Track laying has continued. I have built open frame baseboards and my track is on a continuous curve (i dont think there are any significant straight pieces) with transition curves. So cutting the track bases accurately has been a key thing. I have used templot (well done and thanks again to @Martin Wynne ) and got it to draw both cess and baseboard edges. My procedure has been: 1. in templot, group together the templates i require for a particular section. Set it to plot on A3 and move the page orig
  8. I have been doing just this thing, but with 9mm ply on my oo layout (see link in signature, more postings there today). Foloiwimg a marked line with a jigsaw is not difficult assuming you can see what you are doing and you cut alongside the line, not down the middle. The truck is to able to draw a smooth curve first. You can use thin, flexible bits of wood or plastic to draw long, these will form a natural curve. If it's a constant radius, then a bit of string, pencil and draw g pin works. Or you can draw a curve using a drawing package on the laptop. Print it out and stic
  9. Friday was good. The spray adhesive had worked and the gorilla glue was easy to apply. As you can see the foam shaped well and should provide a good base for the covering. The one issue I did find was that the hot wire foam cutter I have would not cut through the dried glue. I had to use a stanley blade and sand paper. I need to buy a modelling knife with a long blade to shape the foam. Hopefully buying thicker foam will be easier as well. While working on the boards in the shed I did think that my construction method would be an expensive option,
  10. When you say compatible with, so you mean "able to join up to it" Or do you mean using the same geometry Or is it a question on how difficult is it to build a turnout. A simple answer to all three is. Track building is a skill many can pick up easily and enjoy, it takes a little learning but can be very rewarding and opens up a great deal of new opportunities and does not need to be expensive. The two systems are very compatible with each other. As said Templot makes life much easier in making working templates (plans) even copying existing design
  11. I can't see a problem, Martin has drawn up one or two Peco compatible turnouts on the Templot forum. Peco turnouts don't use standard track geometry.
  12. How easy would it be to build turnouts that are compatible with the bullhead track from Peco? Pete
  13. Hi Derek, I'm not sure I have been very definite about that, only that it is very important that the V-crossings should be exactly the correct distance apart, as shown on the template. That is best achieved by fixing them early in the sequence. A common way of working is to treat each half of a diamond crossing separately (as Templot does). So you might start from the centre with one of the bent stock* rails, then move to each end to gauge each of the vees from it, then fill back from them towards the K-crossings. This is a good way of working for curved and irregular diamonds (whe
  14. The trackbed has been cut from 1mm mountboard and fixed with some kind of wood glue. I figured that the paper probably came from wood so it ought to stick well with wood glue. First I placed it carefully and drew around it so that I could achieve the same alignment. It was left to dry over night beneath a pile of reference books. The templot track plan was carefully prepared by removing the tape from the underside and trimming the overlap away locally in the areas where the tracks are. This allows a single uniform thickness of track plan to be stuck onto the track plan. I used a well known bra
  15. I retired in January and having completed/progressed the list of tasks I have time to start for the umpteenth time a layout. Earlier attempts have failed at various stages due to work commitments - I start then ended up with a new job. This time interruptions will be tasks set by my wife (which occurred about 8 weeks into retirement with a decorating project (which included stripping the walls back to brick and replumbing hot/cold and CH)). The basics: 7mm S7 layout of Bodiam Station in Kent (part of the Kent and East Sussex branch line). As a full-size exact depiction. That i
  16. Funnily enough, one of my first templot plans was making an S7 version of that design - https://www.carendt.com/small-layout-scrapbook/page-101-september-2010/ I think the crux of this design (and a number of Minories variations that I've sketched out since then) is that the double slip becomes a bottleneck - arrivals and departures block each other all over the place. That said, while it may be an issue for multiple operators, it's unlikely to be a deciding factor in a lone operator environment as most things would presumably be one move at a time, by sequence.
  17. I don’t think you’re missing anything, Izzy. The Templot link explains how the modern prototype does it, which is impractical in 2FS. Keep it simple is my advice: a set to the planing angle in the curved stock rail, a 5-thou jiggle in the straight stock rail, and “plane” the switch blade straight and vertically to the switch angle, aiming for 0.1 - 0.125mm at the very tip. Sometimes I just can’t get it to sit as smoothly against the stock rail as it should - and that is the only time I would put a file along the top inside corner of the switch - just until it’s all smooth and to gauge. L
  18. Yup, understood Jim. It was the Templot forum post linked by @£1.38 advocated putting a slight set into the blade itself: "Put a set (that's a bend to you and me) in the rail at the planing length so that the end of the rail is aligned where the running face was (the picture should make this clearer). This location of this set is important since this affects the switch angle." [My emphasis] I'm sure this is written with larger scales in mind, but the principle sounds sensible? J
  19. The scenic end of the YR tube station is now sketched in. In fact, when the original tube station was built a number of terraced houses were demolished, which accounts for its strange plan form. The northern wall of the remaining houses was rendered and the fireplace openings maintained, an effect also mimicked on the south end of the station; the GNP&BR always kept its options opened for further development on its railway sites. I thought that it might be feasible to represent the rendered house on the very end of the plot. Whilst it was obviously feasible to make the
  20. That's my theory too. Both the flange and the tyre are tapered on the wheels, so only a very small part of the wheel is ever in contact with the rail. I file the end of my point blades down to a thinnish profile, but still slightly blunt, before fixing them in place. Only then, do I file a gentle taper to the top of the tips of the point blades, getting them to merge with the top of the stock rail. That should be all you need for smooth running. The bottom of the point blade has no impact at all on the running of trains, so can be left relatively blunt. Her
  21. Well I have been working on the curved ends. I had been putting this off cos it seemed difficult to get the curve right without any kinks. I had worked out the dimensions on the plan but I didn't know whether to trust it, given it was only a drawing. Anyway I had no real other option so I went for it. Mostly the horizontals all matched up apart from one. This is the first curved section. View from other way: I need to finish this off now. Hoped to do it today but it's a two handed job and I'm here on my own this afternoon. Hope to do it t
  22. Jack Compared to building locos, building turnouts (even in 00 gauge) will be a walk in the park. Plus if you use Templot (or any other prototypical plan) for the plans, the turnouts will look so much better
  23. Mojo on its way back after a period of real life issues only to be wacked in the nuts by the software update that kept me out of here until today. It made a right mess of my w10 PC in not allowing me to see photos, not being able to reply to topics, mis-aligned all over the page, unable to PM all of which left me unable to contact Andy for guidance. Martin Wynne 85A models and Templot has knowledge of the how's and why's of server software lives local to me so Ill give him a call to see why this software on my pc was such a pig when all other forums I visit were still fully access
  24. Ordinary double sided tape will work just as well. the only warning, if you're using hand-built track like making points on a Templot plan, then moving the complete point to the baseboard, go very sparingly on the double-sided as it will pull the sleepers off the track! For these purposes I use a very thin strip down each side of the sleeper line.
  25. I've designed the throat in the 1896 version and may have posted it on the templot site - it's just as bizarre but in different ways. Oh well, looks like this curio is destined for the X-files.
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