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Found 6,296 results

  1. Hi Gordon, I don't know what you mean by a totem, but you can create whatever you want on the sketchboard in Templot: That's 3 items -- a rounded rectangle with the corners set to 50%, a circle, and a formatted text block. Use the align functions to centralize them all both ways, and then the combine function to create a single item which you can copy and paste, rotate, etc. cheers, Martin.
  2. Evening all..... Finally got my backside into gear and made some progress on the mimic diagram for ET station. Still a few areas that may need a tidy up, but overall I'm happy with the result. Templot is an amazing program and two or three weeks ago when I was working on this panel most days, it was all second nature and click, click, click without reference to anything. This afternoon I sat down in front of the screen and could not recall anything...... Thankfully Martin's notes and videos are invaluable, so it was back to school for the first hour or so. I have no idea if this in an age thing or simply everyday use makes software simpler, but it all comes back to you eventually... Here we go.... I'd love a proper totem rather than the plain rectangle, but couldn't find anything on the web. The nearest I could get visually to Gill Sans was Tahoma, but it look OK. This panel will be 1m wide x 300mm deep, so should be visible even for me.... This panel covers all the main running lines. 5 & 6 are station goods sidings, 7 goes to the main shed and 8 is to the traverser storage. 9 is a few carriage sidings plus a possible diesel shed. Each of these areas (7, 8, 9) will be done via a local control panel with their own switches and led’s for local control. I'm hoping to paste up some prints onto 2mm pdf sheet and then build a mock up before finalising the design for professional printing on laminated paper.
  3. An interesting discussion and quite contentious in a lot of ways! Over the years I've built several layout, including the Model Railway Club's "New Annington", a large exhibition layout in OO gauge. That used copper clad track with Kings Cross bullhead rail. I used Kings Cross templates for the points and a lot of hand-drawn bits using the Kings Cross templates as a basis. That was built to BRMSB standards and worked remarkably well and looked good. The track worked well with a variety of wheels. What mattered was the finished appearance. Since then I've built a German layout using Peco code 75, indeed it was probably the first layout on the exhibition circuit to use the then new code 75 track, and it certainly had the first code 75 double slip! That too worked well and looked good. The latest project which has been ongoing for about 15 years has been a large layout. I originally built it using a mixture of Peco code 75 and Tillig to give a mixture of pointwork geometry but it didn't look right, so the whole lot was lifted and rebuilt using Templot planning and C&L components. I had a lot of "scale" bullhead track from a previous home project. I made the mistake of using the fine-scale OO (DOOGAF I think it was called) on pointwork which meant pushing all the wheel out to 14.8 back to back. That never worked well, so it was all converted to 16.2mm through the points, with a lot being rebuilt. that seems to work very well. I've had plastic based thin sleeper track laid for over 10 years and that has lasted well as have the original points. There's been a couple of bits that have lifted, but nothing serious. Later pointwork including single and double slips have been a bit of a mixture with copper clad at strategic places and the rest plastic based. I would assume your layout will be a small BLT with maybe 6 points? Nothing too much to worry about. If you're not sure, there's a couple of people on here who can offer a professional track building service for you. I don't know what your budget is, but if you want good looking and reliable pointwork with only 6 to make, it may well be worth your while contacting one of these. I believe Hayfield is one of those. I've recently undertaken building the OO track for the Folkestone club's "Alkham Valley" layout. That was originally EM but the builder passed away and nobody in the club had any EM stock to run on it! As others have said, there's very little straight track on the real railway. On the MRC layout the only straights were in the loco shed and the hidden loops. On my own home layout again the loco shed roads are straight. On Alkham Valley the goods shed road is straight!
  4. Thanks again for your further thoughts, all. Much as I'm not sure I want to admit to it in polite company, I think I will love making the point...! To return briefly to one of my original questions, what are the pros and code of copper-clad (etc) vs plastic? Cost? Is plastic inherently more realistic? Learning about Templot has certainly been a bit of an eye-opener! I was admiring Gordon's layout prior to posting this thread. For this particular layout, I think I would have very limited need for curved pointwork, although it might tidy up one end of the layout. I suppose there's nothing to stop me using a mixture of kit-build and free-form, depending on how sensitive it is. I'm not at the point of starting trackwork yet anyway, so there's time to ponder. Even if I don't use Templot for this layout, I am certainly interested in using it in the future. Interesting comment about flexi. The Legacy stuff definitely does have cant, and I was under the impression that at least the latest C&L product does too. I can't find any information about Peco Bullhead, but I suspect that doesn't! cheers James
  5. You'll love making the point, and yes all plastic looks great. I love the way in templot you can just add a slight curve in a point to get the sidings or routes exactly right, and vary the angle or length of it to make it fit perfectly. No need to buy templates if you design the layout in Templot. Curves are there in most track station/yard formations, it's straights that are the rarity. Track normally fits the terrain. I have about 200 versions of my layout saved in Templot, a slight alteration there, a touch of curve there, a longer point just by there, would a slip be better in place of those points, a three way point could save me a bit of space. So many ways to improve and you could replicate a plan of the place you wish to model exactly. This is the second layout i've built and i would never use flexi, it just doesn't look right, and it doesn't have the cant on the rail. I'm trying to use my 3d printer to print the track for this new layout, as the cost of track parts is quite high. Bit of a steep learning curve but worth the effort.
  6. Good evening, Been working quite a bit on the templot plan for the layout. I think it will make things easier for track laying as I am now hand building all the turnouts. Still got the depot area to finish off but its coming along nicely so far. Bet regards, Jeremy
  7. Hi Nick, Thanks, but I haven't done anything. Templot has always used 8ft timbering on 00 templates, going right back to the beginning, 40 years ago. (And the same with the pointwork kits and components which I was manufacturing back in the 1970s.) cheers, Martin.
  8. Thanks for your further thoughts, all! Excuse the selective quoting! I am certainly going to have a good think about making my own track. I think I will pick up a single C&L kit as a starting point, and consider going full free-form if I take to that OK. The track plan doesn't "need" to be free of the restrictions of standard kits, but I don't doubt that it would be an improvement - as always, though, it's a matter of cost / benefit. I was very impressed with Gordon's thread, and his use of Templot on it. It certainly gives me some food for thought; for the future, if not for now. Interesting comment about flexitrack. I thought the length of Legacy I got looked amazing, but I'm only a beginner! I was assuming that, having chairs, it would look better than soldered track. Or are you talking about a plastic option, either using track base (is that any better than flexi?), or gluing plastic chairs to plastic sleepers? I was assuming that flexi was a no-brainer for plain track, but the best route ahead (mainly plastic and chairs vs copper-clad and soldering) became a bit more debatable once you start looking at pointwork. But, as I'm sure you're very well aware, I'm still trying to navigate the received wisdom on the topic! Thanks again, all. cheers James
  9. Thanks for that information. I never noticed you had done that. The newer versions of Templot are much easier to use than the older ones which Chapel was drawn with. Nick
  10. Puzzled by these comments. All 00 flexible track already has shorter 8ft sleepers (instead of 8ft-6in for EM and P4). Templot templates for 00 already use 8ft timbering. If you are building 00 you don't need to think about shortening sleepers, or whether to do it or not. Just use 00 stuff as-is. 00 sleepers have been 8ft (32mm) long for over 60 years. One of the effects of Peco's 00/H0 existing track becoming so dominant in the hobby is that folks have forgotten proper 00 track ever existed. Martin
  11. As you've said the 2mm difference doesn't bother you so go ahead and make your track by hand to oo gauge with code 75 rail, it's really easy to do, and is quite relaxing. Templot will give you an accurate plan with all the sleeper placings and rail positions, whether you use C&L or Exactoscale track parts it's your choice, or even print your own with a 3d printer. Start off with a rough plan or a photo, and see what you can draw up in Templot. Once you get the jist of it Templot is pretty easy to use and gives amazing results. When you've got exactly what you want, have the whole plan printed on a big printer, stick the plan down on the baseboard and just lay the track on top of the plan, it really is that simple. Everything is aligned perfectly and i guarantee it will look great.....even in "oo". PS. do not use flexitrack, it's isn't that good. Build your own, it looks so much better.
  12. Re Chapel en le Frith Leeds MRS layout. The track was drawn on Templot, the main lines are on a 40ft radius through the platforms going down to 6ft at the ends of the visible area. It was all built to 16.2mm gauge through the paintwork and using C&L for the plain track. No attempt was made to reduce the sleeper length. I think it is the sleeper spacing and narrow flangeways which makes it look "right". Some years ago on another club layout at an exhibition a well known trader tried to run his EM loco on our 16.5mm layout. Thanks for the compliment. Nick
  13. Hi All, Long time no post...! Bit of an essay, but I've noticed from a number of other threads like this that context helps to influence the answers. I am planning a painfully stereotypical small GWR terminus layout (based on Churston, which I grew up very close to, with a little artistic licence...like the terminus part!), and have started thinking in earnest about track. I've tried pretty hard to avoid posting questions which will result in "use the damn search..." type responses, but I am finding research on this topic to be very hard work. Realism is important to me, but (as an illustration of where I'm at on that journey) I have only very recently recalled a conversation with an EM/P4 enthusiast at a Warley show a few years ago, and started looking critically at trackwork. And once you see it, you can't unsee it...! I am still firmly in RTR territory when it comes to stock (not least because I want my stock to be portable to friends' layouts), and whilst I buy the EM/P4 arguments and admire how good they look, it's not for me...at least not yet. To my eye (and at the risk of being poked in it by the militant end of the EM/P4 brigade!), the ~2mm gauge issue is easier to overlook than the height of Code 100, or the HO-derived sleepers of 'mainstream' track. To illustrate how new this is to me, only around 6 months ago I was thinking to myself "I should probably look into using whatever that finer Peco track is called...", and that led me down a wormhole of discovering C&L, etc. The other day I picked up my first ever(!) length of Peco Code 75, to compare it with my childhood stock of Code 100. While I was picking that up, I was offered a length of DCC Concepts' Legacy flextrack (which I hadn't heard of before). At the risk of stating the obvious, while the Code 100 looks like a bit of a joke next to the Code 75, the Legacy track is in another league (primarily in terms of the sleepers)...and there's no going back. My track plan is simple, and I was perfectly happy with the appearance (geometry-wise) using Peco's largest-radius Code 75 pointwork (plus double slip). Whilst reading about Templot and the possibilities of turnouts on flowing curves (and very much enjoying Gordon's amazing Eastwood Town thread) was both inspiring and eye-opening, I don't need that level of flexibility for this layout...although the thoughts have been firmly stored ready for the 30-40' straight run main line layout I dream of having the space for! So whilst I am resigned to the fact that I may be forced to build my own pointwork (and may even enjoy it!), I would happily use ready-built turnouts if they are available to match realistic flextrack. However, as far as I can see, the options there are very limited. So far I have looked at C&L, DCC Concepts' Legacy, SMP (Marcway), and Peco Bullhead. Frustratingly, most of the websites involved seem to be somewhere between lacking in info and appalling in design (I'm looking at you, Peco, although in fairness C&L's is probably the best in this regard)...and there are so many forum threads that although I have answered quite a few questions, I am struggling with signal/noise ratio for my specific questions. So, I have a few questions which I've been struggling to get decent answers to: 1) I have only tonight discovered Peco's Bullhead range, which looks far better than the flat-bottomed Code 75 (again, especially in terms of the sleepers). Although in theory they could have just changed the rail, it appears that this has been used as an excuse for a redesign of the sleepers, etc, and the result is something far better than the older flat-bottomed Code 75. Is that right? 2) How good is the Peco Bullhead, next to C&L, etc (with those slightly more exotic brands all seeming to be quite similar)? Is it truly comparable, or more or a halfway house? It is attractive to me, in that I could get everything I need off the shelf, but it needs to look "right enough", or I will forever regret cutting a corner. I will get a length of the flextrack as a test, but advance opinions would be appreciated! 3) The Peco Bullhead double slip (and a couple of other pieces) were due to ship in the autumn last year according to an August 2019 Peco press release, but they appear to have been delayed (until late summer this year, and possibly beyond, in the current circumstances!). Is that right? 4) If the Peco Bullhead proves to not scratch my recently-acquired track-OCD itch, it looks like I'm going to be building my pointwork...but also that there are levels to that! I feel like if I'm going to this trouble (and for a layout which is, ironically, more likely to examined up close than the 30-40' main line layout I would like to build eventually!), I would like chair detail, and sticking plastic chair pieces onto soldered track doesn't feel quite right. Is there any other advantage to soldered track (assuming that a (fixed-dimension?) plastic kit will fit my proposed track plan)? Is the main advantage of soldered trackwork complete freedom of design, while the plastic turnout kits are something of a halfway house? In other words, where does the snob value lie here? 5) DCC Concepts Legacy range - It would appear that there is no plastic-based, with-chairs option...although I saw references to it in various threads from several years ago. Still in the works? It also looks like you have to do all your own profiling for the frog and blades, etc. I'd rather not...! 6) SMP - They have a plastic option (presumably with moulded chairs?), but I'm struggling for detail, pictures, etc. Are you into filing the frog and blades again? 7) C&L - It looks like a winner for me, as there are off-the-shelf frog and blade components for turnouts of certain dimensions...correct? Am I right in saying that they are the only people to offer those? 8) Anything else I ought to know...? I know there's a lot there, and this is probably a really common set of questions, but I've spent most of the evening searching with only partial success, and I'm starting to lose the will to live! Thanks for your time. cheers James
  14. Have a look at the second post in this link from Martin on the Templot Forum (I highly recommend you join up if you haven't already, it's free). It's shows where to bend your rail before filing. https://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=359&forum_id=1 Cheers, Dubs
  15. A prolific output of locos! I've taken a leaf out of Tony's book and I have been horse trading. A friend printed the banners for my Templot layout plan, which would have come to a substantial sum. My part of the bargain was to finish a part built K1 for him. Here it is nearly done, about two and half weeks work on and off with all the other distractions. The tender is all my work! Did K1s run on your section of the ECML Tony? I know there were some in the south - March shed for sure. Regards Tony
  16. Hi Reinder The layout was originally designed to fit in a small ‘box-room’ bedroom but now has a larger home. The main dimensions of the core area as photographed are 6ft by 8ft, with an 8ft extension that accommodates a 13 track storage yard and return loop. I don’t have a fancy ‘templot’ style track plan but I will have a go at photographing a pen and ink drawing made 30 years ago and loading that to this site - hope you don’t mind waiting until the weekend. Mark
  17. Hi John, This is an excellent idea. I've followed your notes and also downloaded the instructions from the EMGS site (I'm a member) and have made one this morning for 2FS. Needless to say it's a bit smaller. I was a bit nervous about making the jig itself from metal due to the close proximity of the soldering although I haven't ruled it out for the future. The base is two 75mm pieces of 15mm x 15mm pine strip and the jig bit is from 0.4mm ply. This was very easy to cut for the 1mm slots that will take the small strips of 0.9mm nickel silver to which the rails will be soldered. The slot positions were derived from a Templot template. My trackwork is generally built using ply sleepers and Easitrac plastic chairs but around the crossing I use pcb timbers. I also use a pcb timber to link the closures to the stock rails and also one at the switch ends. These latter locations make use of brass chairs. Up to now I've had to estimate the length of the small pieces of nickel that support the rails at the crossing, usually getting it wrong (!,) soldering them to the timbers before then soldering the crossing V and wing rails to the nickel strips. As they are often overlength it can be next to impossible to get the cosmetic chairs close to the rail. With this new system the whole assembly can be built and then the nickel strips cut back adjacent to the rail. Here's a photo of the jig with one of the nickel strips in place to test the fit: By the way, your note about bending the wing rails using the filing jig was one of those 'doh!' moments as it had never occurred to me that I could use the 2mm Association filing jig for exactly the same purpose. You live and learn! i'll try to post some photos when I give it a trial run. David
  18. Can the jig also assist with the curviform crossings that Templot drawings are so renown for producing? Andy
  19. I didn't bother with the planning stage, I just built the baseboards and gave up (after a little kicking and muffled silence). The top of one survives as the bench covering to my extensive workshop facilities. Templot is for whooosies
  20. Hi everyone, Can anyone point me in a good direction for 00/EM gauge jigs for point building, Vs and switch blade filing etc? I am a member of the EMGS but being a newbie to all this i dont want to buy the wrong items. I also notice C&L make common crossings for £21.50 if i am unable to make them myself. The layout plan i want to make is 6 points on a slight curve (Blandford Forum northern end) so buying the Vs might be a good option for a beginner. @hayfield I have been researching the C&L chairs that are now on sale and getting to grips with Templot. Paul.
  21. http://www.templot.com/martweb/info_files/gimp_example.htm http://www.templot.com/martweb/info_files/gimp_track.htm Those pages are 18 years old, GIMP has a new user interface since then, but the functions work the same way. GIMP is free. Martin.
  22. Templot is neither of those things, I wouldn't have dreamt of trying to plan my current layout with it...
  23. Martin Wynne has done tutorials on using GIMP for this purpose, you should be able to find them on the TEMPLOT website.
  24. Hi Martin, No problem that the website was unavailable. I am running 2.26.f, which I understand is the latest version. I last used it Thursday so I'm assuming that my copy was relatively up to date. The issue I was getting was that I would receive the 'Unable to contact Templot web site', like your screen shot, and then when I clicked 'OK' Templot just hung and all I got was the 'Templot 2 is contacting templot.com' as normal. Thus I assumed, obviously wrongly, that it required an internet connection in order to run (which was available as I was able to post here). Good to hear then that a 'connection' isn't required to run it. All seems to be running ok now however. Kind Regards, Paul
  25. Yes, it would and/or did start. Thanks for updating to 226f. It's important because there was a bug in 226e affecting users on Windows7, causing Templot to crash. Fixed in 226f. cheers, Martin.
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