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Found 42 results

  1. Hi Does anyone know how to find the decoder address of a Z21 Switch decoder, so I can program the outputs? Thanks
  2. Hi folks, Can anyone recommend a decoder that would be easy to fit into one of the above locos? How straightforward a job was it? I would really like to add one of these to my fleet however, as the remainder of my locos are either dcc ready or are easy to hardwire, I would like to answer the above question before I buy. Many thanks for any help. Regards, Alex.
  3. I felt I needed a rolling road to run in and test loco's. I originally started with the DCC Concepts one as I like their stuff but it's fiddly to line the rollers up for longer locos with tenders and the units come off the track very easily. So it's quite easy for the loco and tender to fall off and I have damaged a lovely Hornby T9 because of this . To be fair I normally work on locos standing up and my mark I mobile testing box shown below is quite high plus I could be less clumsy. I am may be being too harsh about the DCC Concepts rolling road, but one another niggle is that I also have their Power Base magnets under some of these locos and that means the rollers get attracted to those making matters much worse - you can see the Terrier on the right has attracted a bit of the road for exactly this reason. Also I was annoyed at having to move locos back and forth from the rolling road to the programming track as I am having problems programming some decoders with Hornby's Rail Master/Elite system (that is a tale for another day). So for the Fryer Servicing Box MkII, I used a steampunk looking rolling road I got from a show at Woking (sold by Ten Commandments), made a new box from scratch and fitted a DPDT centre off switch (the Centre off feature is essential so as not to fry the controller). This means I can simply flip that switch to go from programming to testing with the loco remaining on the rolling road. One thing to be aware of here is that the programming output is deliberately low power to minimise damage when new decoders may not have been correctly wired up, so connectivity through the rolling road needs to be good for my cunning plan to work (shout to @RAF96 for this): I like this switching idea so I might allocate a siding on my layout for programming as well by isolating it from the rest of the layout and connecting to both my DCC bus and Elite Programming output via another DPDT switch as they are about £3.50: Finally thanks to @Oldddudders for recommending the right switch.
  4. Hi All I had a spectacular failure today of my part built Bachmann 25. It is/was fitted with an ESU? V3:5 sound chip. The loco was sat on the track and not running but the motor got so hot it melted the cradle it sits in and also the plastruct underframe. The chip is also fried. I discussed it with Mark (Miller) and he has never known anything like that. The motor is damaged, but I have a spare and the loco is salvageable but not the chip. Untitled by Shane Wilton, on Flickr Untitled by Shane Wilton, on Flickr The focal point for the damage seems to centre around the suppressor, which is soldered to the motor casing at one end and the brush holder at the other. Untitled by Shane Wilton, on Flickr Any suggestions as to how this could have happened? Cheers Shane
  5. Hi Below is the table of Decoder Details output from a Lokprogrammer. Can anyone explain/interpret what each line means (some are obvious, of course) Especially what is PDate & Bdate & Adate? LokSound V4.0 ManId: 00000097 ProId: 0200006A SerNo: FA00F88A PDate: 30/10/2018 PInfo: FFFFFFFF BCode: 0.2.1 BDate: 22/02/2010 ACode: 4.17.9249 ADate: 04/07/2018 AType: MultiDcc CV7 : 255 CV8 : 151 Cheers Tim
  6. Hi everyone, Just bought two Hornby J36 locomotives. As usual, I tried to fit Gaugemaster decoders (DCC26 to one, and DCC27 to the other) however I found that they do not fit. The problem seems to be that the length of the pins causes the circuit board to sit too high to fit under the tender body. Comparing the length of the pins to those of the Hornby blanking plate, the latter are far shorter; is this also the case with the Hornby decoders? Thanks in advance for any help. Regards, Alex.
  7. Topic posted twice.
  8. I have just started hard wiring a decoder for the first time and have encountered some problems, I hope someone can help. On this RTR loco chassis it simply isn’t possible to solder the decoder wires onto the pick ups and motor. All I have to do is join the four wires from the decoder with the two wires from the pick ups and two from the motor. The first problem is how to strip the insulation off the very fine decoder wires? My wire strippers simply cannot manage such fine wire. Indeed I’ve accidently shortened the wires trying. Having finally got some insulation off, how do you actually make a strong connection between the two wires, in effect it is a soldered but joint? Make little hooks on the end of each wire? Try and twist them round each other? The actual soldering is no problem. I slid some heat shrink onto one the wires, but on my first attempt at joining the wires, enough heat travelled down the wire and shrunk the heatshrink before I could get it over the joint (I’ve used liquid insulation tape instead. On the second attempt the wire came unsoldered off the motor, fortunatly this motor terminal is accessible, the other one is not. Cheers.
  9. Upgrading a Ringfield motor Hornby Class 56 with a modern spec DCC lighting system. About Built between '76 - '84, the Class 56 is a heavy freight locomotive. They are now only operated by GBRF and Colas however my model is in EWS livery and will be staying that way. The model, with it's ringfield motor, has a huge amount of space inside which makes working with it very easy - I hope. It was originally fitted with filament bulb lights which I removed many years ago when originally fitting a decoder. Hopefully this mean I will be able to reuse the existing plastic lenses which means I can use the #1206 LEDs I acquired for my OFF & RA indicators project previously posted. What do I want to achieve? I want to bring this model to modern standards with LED lighting in the cabs and as head/tail lights. I want the ability to separately control marker, head & tail lights as well as DCC controlled cab lights. I want to complete this project without buying any more components or equipment (apart from some solder, I'm running quite low!) I want to run the marker, head & tail lights from a LokPilot FX. The cab lights will, for now, be left unconnected pending the fitting of a sound decoder in the future. Fitting & Wiring a speaker ready for a future sound install. Construction With one of the cab units out, it should be fairly simple to pop an LED onto the roof before slipping it back in. It could do with a lick of paint to make it look more like a 1970's locomotive and less like a space ships cockpit. Looking at pictures from Google, the cab is more of a 'light grey' than 'space-age metal'. As it turns out, I have no grey paint so in the spirit of having nothing left in the modelling budget, space age metal it is. I will however add a few details in black on the desk and paint in a door at the back of the cab. After looking at the light pipes, I have decided to use the original light pipe with one #1206 LED for the tail lights, one #1206 LED for each marker light and a 2mm Tower type LED for the headlight - this fits perfectly and is easier than squeezing the smaller led in the right place above the tail light pipe. The surface mount #1206 LEDs were secured with PVA before being surrounded by 'White Tack' to prevent light bleed. The 2mm Tower LED was a perfect fit for the headlight hole so the Hornby lens was dispensed with. The Cab light LEDs are the same small LEDs as the marker & tail lights and is just resting in the top of the cab. I then simply used electrical tape to secure the wires past the motor, now I can begin construction of a 'circuit board' with a small piece of stripboard. With one end now wired up, I have to say that the fine wires on the #1206 LEDs are very fiddly to solder when you have 8 to do! On that note, with half of the LEDs wired in and no solder left; it is time to call it a day until I can grab some more solder to start work on the other end. With the solder, speaker & decoder here it's just time to wire it all together. I've mounted the speaker, a base reflex from Roads & Rails, onto the top weight with just a thin film of PVA glue, this should make it easy to remove if I ever want to change the speaker. Then it is just a case of setting up the 'Decoder Lock' in DecoderPro and get some function mapping done. I love the logical interface for programming ESU decoders which is why I chose to use the LokPilot FX. Function 23 gives me a 'hazard warning light effect', no idea if this ever existed in this form on a 56 but it gives me a change to play with the decoder settings. Final Outcome Marker & Headlight: Tail Lights: (Showing a little bit of light bleed, I will use a cocktail stick to push the white-tack higher up towards the cab) Marker Only: Cab lights will remain inoperable until I fit a sound decoder, I have also left the motor un-wired for now after removing the Bachmann decoder. In the future, I will look to re-motor the loco by adapting a more modern Hornby motor bogie.
  10. Hello Folks, Will these decoders be ok to be used on 00 locomotives? I believe owner used them on his HO Germany locos. Some have 8 pins, which will fit my locos, but some have a 6pin in a straight line, which will need adjusting to 8 pin sockets. Any comments will be appreciated. Kind regards, Mookie.
  11. Hi everyone, If all goes to plan this weekend I will be chipping the last of my locos. I have found alternate CV settings to fine tune all but one of them; can anyone help? Locomotive is a Hornby Fowler 4P 2-6-4t; decoder is a Bachmann 36-553 As ever, thanks in advance for any help offered. Regards, Alex.
  12. I want to build a 32 bit to 5 bit encoder using a diode matrix. I am happy with the circuit for the diode matrix - there are 32 rows with 5 columns with diodes placed at the appropriate intersections to generate a 5 bit BCD code. The code for each of the 32 rows is obtained by closing a switch to +5V. My question relates to a need to note which switches have been operated to set-up the required route for the turnouts and feeds for a z gauge model railway. I would like to place an LED against each switch which would illuminate and stay illuminated as each switch is operated - the switch is operated once and then returned to its OFF position. I need some sort of latch. I thought of a D-type such as the SN74HC373 octal latch. I have tried various connections but cannot achieve the effect that I want. Is a D-type the right sort of thing or is there something else? Eddie Price
  13. Hi everyone, As the topic title says, I am looking to fit a decoder to a Bachmann 57xx tank from the Western Wandered set. Can anyone suggest a Gaugemaster one that will fit without modification to the loco body, chassis, or any part of the decoder? I found plenty of references to other brands of decoder that will fit, however I would prefer to use Gaugemaster as any other locos that are chipped will be using these, and my local model shop is a stockist. Thanks for taking the time to read. Thanks, too, in advance for any suggestions.Regards, Alex.
  14. I'm looking around for a 5/6 function 21 pin MTC decoder and there appears to be a dearth of them available at present. However, I did come across an Uhlenbrock 75330. At around £26, is this a bargain or not? And what are peoples opinion of Uhlenbrock? FWIW it's to go in a Dapol Class 122.
  15. Hi folks. Got myself a Dapol 68. Bought a ESU Lokpilot V4 21pin MTU. One of the ones that's on the recommended list in the Dapol instructions! I use a Hornby Elite controller. I am totally confused. With switch 3 on the PCB board in the 4/6 function decoder setting I can have head lights, both ends white lights, both ends red lights, halo lights at the rear, cab lights on and off....I don't know what the heck I am doing to be honest. Anyone else had these issues? If I use it in DC/2 function mode with switch 3 on the PCB set at the factory setting it works like an loco does, white lights forward, rear lights red. But no halo lighting. Its all too complicated lol Dave
  16. I will be using Modratec lever frames to control the points and signals on the scenic sections of my layout. I am now considering operating the points with slow-action motors but I haven't yet identified a decoder (stand-alone or integral) that responds to non-momentary inputs such as a standard microswitch, other than the DCC Specialties Hare/Wabbit/Jack Wabbit family which are somewhat expensive. Any ideas please?
  17. Hello, Bought from ebay, Bachmann Class 25 No 25034 Aberystwyth Castle BR blue, with Domino lights, DCC fitted at the factory. This was originally a part of a DCC introductory passenger set 30-050. Does anybody know which decoder has been fitted, or who manufactured the decoder? Or, even better, does anyone have a copy of the instructions that go with it? Thanks, Mike
  18. I recently took my Bachmann class 25, 32-400DS out of the display to give it a run. It short circuited immediately, with lights flashing and the speaker hissing. I was able to read the decoder settings and it indicated a Loksound 3.0 chip and not 3.5 to my surprise on my ESU console. I removed the chip and put a blanking plug on the loco and it worked fine in dc, then I chipped it with a Bachmann 36-554 21 pin decoder and it worked fine in dcc. Put the loksound in another Bachmann locomotive and a puff of smoke came out. Did anyone else have a similar problem? Any advice on probable cause? Any suggestions for replacement with another Loksound decoder and where to purchase? The locomotive is out of warranty, I purchased it in 2009. Thank you
  19. I rang Digitrains recently about upgrading decoder chips. Jeremy was very helpful with advice, and I purchased a couple of chips, which were delivered very quickly. One of them was faulty, so I phoned Jeremy, and he said they would replace it, no argy-bargy or questions. A replacement arrived 2 days after posting the defective one back. Now that is good service! They may not be as cheap as the box-shifters, but their service and experience are worth a lot. I'll use them again. John
  20. Hi All, This is my first post so hope i'm not breaking any rules. I have searched the web and the forums here for answers so forgive if i missed a previous post or blog on this issue. I have recently purchase the Graham Farish land ship set and a 36-558A decoder to go with it. On my DC layout the 4F class loco runs and it's had a good "running in" session followed by some play time with carriages and wagons at all speeds. However after installing the 36-558A chip and setting it up on my DCC test track i find it can't run slowly at all, it seem to suddenly start and jump to a scale speed of 10-20mph. Now i'm fairly new to DCC and still trying to get my head round the CVs and function setting of decoders but from what i understand the E-Z Command does not have the ability to change CVs so am i stuck with this? Is this a case of cheap controller and cheap chip? I'd very much like to run the train on my new DCC layout i'm building , the purpose for whihc i bought it, but if it can't achieve low speeds like this i may have to turn back to DC or sell the loco/chip. There must be something i can do without spending more money but i'm not knowledgeable enough in this area to figure it out. Regards, Ben
  21. I have a DCC Concepts ADS 8FX decoder, I contacted DCC Concepts directly to ask which point solenoid/motor they would recommend, to my surprise they said the ADS 8FX cannot be used with any of their cobalt motors! they suggested I use the Gaugemaster PM10. I have since read reviews where the decoder is used with the cobalt motors? Has anyone had experience with this? I would also like to control the polarity of the frogs on the points with the solenoid/motor/decoder? I'm new to this and haven't got a clue!
  22. A fellow club member, who does not have access to the Internet, wishes to fit a DCC decoder to his Bassett Lowke Flying Scotsman loco. He would be most grateful for any advice particularly in respect of the smoke unit fitted to the loco. One option being considered is placing the decoder in the tender but does anyone know if it can be dismantled? Thanks.
  23. I'm looking for recommendations for accessory decoders suitable for peco pm4 and seep point motors I have read about cobalt and it seems a good system but I dont know if its able to link to peco or seep gut instinct says it should be able to but I don't know if there will be enough power to throw the solenoid switch over. Currently point motors are linked to a cdu to reduce the power and I throw the points manually on the panel but want to be able to do some route setting All points are electrofrog
  24. Does anyone know of a right angle 6 pin decoder suitable for N gauge which is rail com plus compatible. Regards, Anthony Ashley
  25. Hi Folks, I have just been lumbered with a Bachmann Class 105 and two Gaugemaster DCC26 decoders that I have been tasked with fitting for a friend. After the usual struggle to get the body off the power car wihout breaking any of the detailing, I fitted the first chip only to discover that there is no DCC control of the interior lights. F0 seems to turn on all lighting and on closer inspection of the chip, the wiring harness from the 8pin plug to the white socket that fits the decoder only seems to contain 7 wires and pin 3 (Aux1) is left empty on the 8 pin plug. There are two loose wires (green/purple) hardwired to the chip, so I guess the only option is to extend the loose green wire and solder it back to the empty pin on the plug. I'm just puzzled as to why the interior lights come on with F0 when there is no physical connection at present to the aux feed on the decoder plug. The reviews of the decoder seem favourable and it is quite compact, but it is hardly a plug and play solution if you need more that two functions. Can anyone assist in confirming the above will work, or have had similar problems with the missing fuction wire. Cheers in advance Rich
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