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Found 77 results

  1. Not sure if this is the place or not but here goes! For a number of years I've have temporary track layouts, setting them up, running locos and rolling stock then breaking it apart and starting again the next day. This was mainly due to a lack of space. I've been fortunate that some space has become available after some spring cleaning for a small shunting layout; 4' x 1'. I've seen quite a number of designs and taken inspiration from them. The layout includes an entrance from a detachable fiddle yard line, a passing loop, three single straight sidings along the near side (sufficient for the wagons and trucks I use), a siding at the very back to store coaches, and a recoaling siding at the left end of the platform.I won't be using on track buffers, I am making some that will sit just at the end to give clearance to the couplings. To clarify, I use the smaller 4 wheel coaches, and the Dapol trucks! I'm open to any feedback on the layout design, I have done some running on it and it seems to be working fine. However, I'm more so interested in the extras to add in to the layout. I'm looking to model it as a branchline terminus for a town. I have seen some youtube clips with bits in it, but tbh I wouldn't know where to start or where the best place is to get them. I'm thinking the likes of signals, and railway buildings. I have a home build station which I'm happy enough with. Just made out of timber and some toothpicks for a fence. Even ballasting I wouldn't know what the best size to get is!! Because its a small layout, I wouldn't mind getting some more advanced type things. I've been looking into point motors, which may come later as given its size is unnecessary rn, but I think there are other accessories that are wired? Also for uncoupling whats the best way? I've seen people use the uncoupling track and magnets. I used to jsut lift them but it'd be nice to not have to be lifting rolling stock. I'm so sorry for all the questions! I really do appreciate any feedback or advice. EliteT
  2. I have just moved into a new house following retirement and plan on building my (if not anyone else's) dream layout in 00 notionally based on BR London Midland Region inspired by the Settle and Carlisle and the Midland route to Manchester via the Pennines (yes, I know, they are very different). Era is intended to be 1960 or thereabouts. I have built a layout in 00 (mainly Hornby-Dublo) many years ago and have had a few ventures on N and 009, but this is the ultimate dream, so it would be quite good if I could get it right this time. The house had a detached garage which I thought promising until investigation established that it was badly built and not in great condition, so I had that demolished and bought a Lidget Compton concrete garage to replace it. I installed (that is me with the help of my son, not a contractor - who might have made a better job) ceilings with insulation above and lined the walls with insulation backed Gyproc (product is called Thermaline). The floor is concrete (obviously - but a newly laid slab with damp course lining) with a foam type insulation layer supporting a laminate floor. (Warning in passing - don't drop heavy things on laminate floors, because that breaks the floor, and I can't see how that can be repaired). That gives me what I hope is a reasonably comfortable space for the layout - 19' 4" by 8' 10". Although it is garage shaped and sized, the door is an outward opening personnel door, rather than the normal garage door. I looked at the station diagrams on the S&C and the Pennine route - none had a hope in hell of fitting my space, so have I ended up with the attached proposal, on which comment would be welcome. Track will be Peco Code 75 (FB, not the new bullhead) and control will be DCC. Couplers will be Kadee. 200708 plan.pdf Points to note - it is on graph paper, which is metric, so bears no real relation to the dimensions. It is also worked down from bigger larger scale plans, so things that look like they may not fit - the trailing curved crossover on the down side, for example, will - or there is enough space to make it do so. I used a 3 way point to create the up side trailing crossover plus the line to the loop platform - I am not sure whether this is a good idea. There is a noticeable gap between the platform loop track and the adjacent loop - this could be resolved by use of a single slip. I don't want to do that, as the Peco slips are 2' radius, and my minimum is 3'. I will have to think of some scenic explanation for the gap. On radii, I absolutely dislike the yawning gaps between vehicles and hope that generous radii may help ease that problem by enabling closer coupling. I thought that the plan was such that trap point should not be needed - if anybody thinks otherwise, please say. I have not yet dealt with signalling, al;though it does not look that difficult. The goods yard area is yet to be planned, as is the fiddle yard and branch terminus. Comments welcome.
  3. A left over piece of MDF produced the idea for “Yet Another Micro Layout”. My youngest daughter recently acquired a new bunk bed for her room, and wanted a place to do some painting without painting on the walls of her room. My wife purchase a large piece of MDF for that purpose, and had it cut to size at the hardware store, and a 1200 x 240mm piece of MDF and a few extra pieces about 70mm deep, were left over. My wife specifically said to me “can you use these for a model railway”. Of course I can, I thought! But how to use it? I perused the various eBooks by the late Carl Arendt until I settled on an expanded and customised track plan based on the “Tramways de Chamies-Les Thurs” track plan in the “Creating Micro Layouts” eBook. That track plan is only about 600mm x 300mm, whereas the track plan I will be using will cover 1200 x 240mm. The next thing to do was to decide on a prototype / theme. I had thought of a tram / streetcar layout like that suggested for the “Tramways de Chamies-Les Thurs” track plan in the eBook, with the possibility of a Melbourne (Victoria, Australia) Tram layout. But in the end I settled on a Brazilian themed layout. The reason for this is that I have a limited budget, and a Melbourne Tram model was over $250 (Australian) – a huge chunk out of my model railway budget. I had previously come across the Frateschi HO scale models, made in Brazil. So I did some research about them and from what I read they seem like reasonable models, and very reasonably priced. I went onto ebay, and found a model of a Brazilian G22 Bo-Bo diesel electric locomotive with an RFFSA (Rede Ferroviária Federal, Sociedade Anônima) paint scheme which is about 7 inches long, for $99. And so I purchased it. To make the most use of available space, I purchased 2 Peco short radius Y turnouts to minimise the space for the layout. The combination of the reasonably short locomotive and Y turnouts should give me some space to also have up to 2 freight cars attached to the locomotive to able to move through the switchbacks on the layout. Not only is this the first Brazilian themed layout I have built but it is also the first one where I employed multi-use foam board (called XPS insulation board) which is very similar to extruded foam board used in the USA. Because of the use of XPS foam board, it is also likely to be the first layout that I use no nails or screws on! Photos above, top left to bottom right: XPS foam board info, the MDF left over that is the reason for the layout, the layout base from the front, the layout base from the back. Rather than the layout being a passenger switch-back between multiple tram stops like the original “Tramways de Chamies-Les Thurs” track plan, this layout will be a freight switching layout, with a small 2 track yard, the switch back, and various industries on the different legs of the switch back. This gives a fair amount of operational interest in a micro layout space. Because the RFFSA only operated between 1957 and 1999, and the layout will be run with an EMD G22 diesel rather than steam motive power, the era is fairly well defined to between 1967 (when the G22 was introduced) and 1999. This era is about the same as the other model layouts I have, and is purposely broad to allow for the use of more types of rollingstock. As well as the locomotive, I also purchased some Frateschi rollingstock: a reefer, covered hopper and boxcar. After testing the G22 locomotive and rollingstock on one of my other layouts, I am quite impressed with the quality and running ability of the Frateschi models I purchased. I’m particularly impressed that the locomotive and 3 cars cost less than $200 (Australian), and that the cars have metal wheels and are reasonably close coupled when connected together.
  4. progress on ww2 military train layout ho
  5. https://boratool.com/work-stands Looks interesting. Mike.
  6. Think this is the correct place, I have recently just set up new baseboards for a new 00 gauge layout. However I haven’t been able to find a track plan I have been happy with. I have not yet decided on which period I would like to model yet as a plan to purchase the locomotives and rolling stock once I have decided. Most of my current rolling stock are mk2 br blue coaches which are quite old but are still capable to run on both code 100 and code 75 track and may look ok if weathered. Some Locomotives I currently own are older triang br blue locomotives with a few newer Bachman locomotives in br green and coal sector. I plan to do the layout in dcc so I am not sure if the older locomotives can be changed over to dcc or if it’s worth changing them. (The Bachmann locomotives I own are already dcc fitted) I have attached an image bellow of the dimensions of the layout my initial plan was to have a 4ft radius curve and a station of some sort on the strait section however I haven’t been able to find any sort of track plan that I have been happy with. some things I want to be included is at least half of the 4ft radius curve station that can hold or looks as if it holds 5-7 coaches most of the points being large or medium radius ideas that could be included locomotive shed sidings (in use or disused) tramway Any other ideas are appreciated Not sure if anybody could help and make a track plan or suggest any ideas. As you may see a more effective way to use the space than me. Also any help on signing would be very helpful. One last thing as I have both code 75 and code 100 track is the any ways to utilise both? I have quite a few small peco code 100 points that may be useful for a fiddle yard. Image with layout dimensions below Thanks Joe
  7. Hi All, I am brand new to the forum and also new to the hobby, although the fires have been burning since I was about 9, over 30 years ago now :) I am building a new OO Gauge DCC Model Railway (my first) in my garage. The size of the board is 12 by 8 and it covers pretty much the entire garage. There is an operating well in the centre of the layout approx 2 by 6, although this can be modified in size/shape. Here's where it gets interesting, the entire board is on a hand cranked winch system I built and can be raised and lowered from the roof, meaning the garage is still usable for anything else. The north and sound edges of the board (12 foot sections) almost touch the walls and so are not accessible at all from the sides. The East end of the board is where the garage door is and so is accessible when the door to the garage is open. The West end of the board is fully accessible. (I'm thinking a plan or photos of this might be a good idea, I'll get that sorted...) So I built and rebuilt the board 2 years ago and I have spend hours and hours trawling over track ideas and playing on Scarm and still have nothing on the board. My problem is I want too much on the board and just can't seem to get a layout I am happy with. Ok so what am I trying to get: I don't mind about correct Era or realistic operation, I just want to see trains going around, mostly steam but some diesel too, none of those new fangled electric ones though! What I would like: Double main line (continuous loop) Single or Double line for goods trains (continuous loop) these I would like to be fairly long trains. Possible 4th/5th line for small steam trains (goods only) again ideally continuous loop. I would like a station, this will have to be a through station because of the above, but I have toyed with a fake terminus in one corner for this. Passenger trains will be loco and 3 or 4 coaches (I have 6 for my longest but it won't fit on a layout like this) I would ideally like there to be 4 lines in the station as it means I can have a waiting train on each of the 2 lines and easily switch out. Potentially a couple of siding for engine sheds etc, no turntable though. No fiddle yard required. (let's face it no space for one) I would like some industry for the goods lines to have a purpose so with the station as well this means a fairly urban layout which is fine, although a bit of greenery somewhere would be nice, maybe a tunnel or bridge. I have played around with the passenger lines being raised up, only 80mm or so, then the goods lines down at baseboard height, so they can cross each other for interest. Ok I have waffled on for far too long, hopefully I have posted this in the correct place. I would really love some help in getting my layout moving and would love some input from others. I'll get some pictures on as soon as possible. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give. Mike
  8. Ballasting, a task which is feared of by many railway modellers across the globe. Welcome to this new blog entry, where I hope to show you a quick and effective method of creating ballasted Code 75 Wooden sleeper track which looks professional and realistic. The Materials you will need for my method is as follows. Deluxe Materials - Ballast Bond. (Approximately £6.00 Per 100ml.) Fine Spray Bottle - Containing Luke Warm Water with two drops of Fairy Liquid. Greenscenes Ballast - Codes GS408 (Fine) & GS409 (Semi Coarse) Large Soft Paint Brush Tea Spoon Ballast Spreader. Method. Before Starting, ensure your work area is clear of dust, debris and other items you do not want getting in your ballast, or wetting with the spray application bottle later on in the process. Mixing the Ballast. We Mix up some ballast using Greenscenes fine and semi coarse ballast, The ballast is Product codes GS408 & GS409 mixed together. Remembering that Ballast is never all the same size. You'll Probably see that the ballast shade we have chosen is quite a light shade. This will be weathered and dulled down in due course at a later stage. Applying the Ballast. Ballast Spreaders are available from many manufacturers and suppliers around the globe, such as Proses and Greenscenes. We picked this one up from a local supplier at a model railway show a few years ago, they all function the same. This is a simple, yet effective way of ballasting large areas quickly and hassle free. Upon Loading the Ballast Spreader, drag it along the rails. It will deposit any ballast in open areas along the 4ft and Cess at the side of the rails. Be careful not to drag the ballast spreader along to quickly, doing so will not allow the ballast to go into all of the areas it is required. I advise working in small sections at a time when doing Ballasting in this way, theres nothing worse than laying out all of your ballast and then realising you do not have enough Glue half way through! This can lead to all manor of problems, the main one being dust and debris falling into it! Remove the Ballast spreader from the rails when the hopper is empty, and you have ballasted all the areas required. Once you've done this, Using a soft large brush, remove the ballast from the top of the sleepers and the sleeper sides, this will give a more realistic appearance. Forming the Ballast Shoulder and Neatening up. Once you've removed all the ballast from the sleeper tops and sides, I use the brush to just push the ballast down between the sides of the rails so there is no gaps visable of the cork underneath. You can also use the brush to pat down the ballast shoulder softly. I am aware that most modern day ballast shoulders are raised above the rails, but at the GCR, this is a different story. Tap the Rail head with a tea spoon too when you are happy, this will allow all of the ballast to sit comfortably inside the rails and sleepers, and also remove any remaining ballast off the sleepers. This is a small, yet effective way of removing the ballast from areas it is not required. Ensure your layout is off before you do this, as you don't want to short the power to your railway out! Applying the Adhesive. When we are ready to apply the glue to hold everything together, there is more to it than just adding the adhesive. We start by giving the area we wish to glue a good spray using a fine mist spray bottle, Nothing Pricey or out of the ordinary, many of you will have something similar lying around at home. In this mixture, we fill it with Luke Warm water and two drops of fairy Liquid just to break the surface tension of the ballast when the glue is applied, this also allows the glue to flow further. When approaching Point-work, the same method can be applied, although be very careful of the switch blades and mechanism. When the mixture is fully soaked, it is time to apply the adhesive. The Simplest way we have found, although more expensive is using Deluxe Materials Ballast Bond. This retails around the £6.00 area per bottle, depending on the supplier. If you are working on very large layouts you may be better sticking with normal PVA & Water, I'm pretty sure there is no difference, although this is my preferred method due to the ease of use. Each bottle is supplied with a fine applicator nossle,which the adhesive can come out of in droplets, This soaks into the ballast really well, and the dry time for this product is between 6 & 8 Hours in a well heated environment. Its important not to touch the ballast whilst it is drying. This can dislodge the ballast, and it is very hard to correct it once it has been touched. It will be a lot easier to rectify and issues once the glue has dried. The Finished Product. Once complete, This is how it will look. You are left with a nice matt finish, no shines from the sleepers and everything is held into place very well. Eventually the rails and sleepers will be weathered with my airbrush. I will do a tutorial on how I go about that in another blog. Here are some images of the finished product. I'd highly recommend this method for beginners its pretty fail safe! Helpful links to some of the products I've used can be seen below. Ballast Used - http://www.green-scenes.co.uk/store?productlist-sort=created-desc&productlist-categories=ballast&productlist-itemcount=20&productlist-search= Ballast Spreader (Example) - https://railsofsheffield.com/products/33597/proses-pbs-ho-02-oo-gauge-ballast-spreader-car-w-shut-off-and-height-adjustment?gclid=CjwKCAjw2uf2BRBpEiwA31VZj_Tc8IOAWaiuycYyTd8lTqId7yqmgOlP8csNY7N0IdWAA7z0FLTVFxoCT6YQAvD_BwE Deluxe Materials Ballast Bond 100ml - https://www.track-shack.com/oo-gauge-railways/adhesives-1/deluxe-materials-ad-75-ballast-bond-liquid-adhesive-100ml-gm_dlad_75-2 Thanks for reading, Hopefully this will help many people get used to ballasting in a different way. All the best Michael Sutton & Kirsty Beardmore.
  9. Hello everyone, Currently in the design stages of a new project that I've decided to take the plunge on. It's a BR (E/NE) region fictional motive power depot based in the transitional period so it will feature mostly steam traction with a couple of early diesels. I've attached the plan I've drawn up in N Gauge scale below, I would appreciate it if people would take the time to look at my plan and see if there are any improvements/changes that I should think about implementing.
  10. Hello. I've created a layout for my loft and would be grateful if people could have a glance and offer some feedback? I don't intend to motorise track points right now as that's somewhat beyond my immediate level of expertise, so I'm simply going to run the locomotives clockwise and anti-clockwise [green and blue], and tootle up and down the orange as and when. Obviously there are a number of gaps shown that I intend to fill with the small, Hornby 38mm track lengths. I guess this might seem somewhat unorthodox [four/five tracks side by side] but I'm not looking to replicate any level of accuracy. The thinking shown suits me, as does the mix of diesels [eight], shunters [two] and steam [three], plus assorted, decorative locomotives. I'm also aware of significantly restricted access to the far side but I'm reluctant to add an access hole. My intent is simply set them all off and control them as and when they go around. Sincere thanks, Will Buggleskelly Station Notes: 1. Hornby 00 2. DCC
  11. Hello Everybody, As a complete novice and first time poster please be gentle! I have always had a love model railways and trains in general and was lucky enough to have a big loft layout that my father built me when i was a child. Now as an adult with 2 young children I have the urge to start building a model railway for myself. Having recently moved house, i have found some left over hardboard and timber and have built a base measuring 8ft 4in x 2ft pictures attached. I intend to keep the layout in the garage. My first thoughts would be to have a station layout or a yard of some sort (end to end). I have being buying locos and rolling stock for quite some time and have a rather large collection of BR blue diesels and passenger carriages(OO Gauge) plus other bits and pieces/track. I have one Hornby controller (DC) and would like to keep costs low if possible. My knowledge of electrics are poor and this is my biggest worry. Laying of track i feel quite comfortable with and adding buildings etc will be done once the track is up and running. I welcome any ideas or designs you may have and please accept my thanks for any advice given. Regards, Mark from Manchester
  12. I have been a model train fan since a very young age when my parents bought me and my younger brother our first train set. As usual with this things, there was only a circle of rails, a diesel loco and a few wagons with the train set. But along came also a big - long silver carriage coach that was taking the passengers and my mind not around the circle but probably around the whole of the world. Over the years the desire for making a layout for our train set was always there but not the space, the time, the resources. Life got in the way as they say and the layout idea never materialised but also never forgotten. Come forward the last couple decades and Greek themed models started becoming available and I slowly started making a collection so that a day would come and the layout would become a reality. Having left the big city and coming to leave to the country suddenly provided the time, the space and the opportunity. First steps started happening a couple of years ago when I put my carpentry skills to the test. A baseboard in pieces that could be moved was the only way forward since we leave in a rented home. The idea behind the construction of the baseboard is to be portable and easy for moving and storage. The two scenic pieces (front) are each 120 x 60cm while there is a long third piece 240 x 30 cm on the back side to keep the whole from sagging and also be used as a fiddle yard. To get to this point obviously the first decisions had to be made. It was important to me that there was a full circle for trains to travel around the layout. It was important that there was a fiddle yard. After painting the baseboard to keep it somehow protected from my garage's humidity, it sat unused waiting for the next chance for me to get involved which didn't occure before almost a year. But this will be on the next post. Manos
  13. 2112 square centimetres, it sounds a lot, but it's actually tiny - and that is the area of the shelf under neath East Works but above my workbench... I've pondered what to do with this area for some time, and have mulled over small plans for OO and 009 layouts to fill the space. In the end, seeing my friends Tom Dauben and Steve Fulljames make starts on similar small projects bumped this one into reality and I settled on what had become favourite... a scene based upon photographs and video of NCB steam in South Wales in the late 1960s early 1970s. So here we have Pont-y-dulais (or Dulais bridge). Yes, it is almost 'Pontarddulais' but not quite, with also some elements of Mountain Ash thrown in, really it's just an excuse to try out a pair of Peco bull-head points, fill a space on the workshop and have a small OO gauge layout that is out all the time for running. It nearly fills the area above my workbench, and hopefully it's compact size will make it a good fun little project whilst ticking the boxes for somewhere to 'play' with my growing collection of coal related industrials. The period is deeply evocative and I find photos and videos of the run-down and worn out systems to be massively inspiring - and I want to see if I can capture some of that atmosphere with this project. Work started by marking out a piece of ply, printing some templates from Peco for the bull-head points and combined with a few yards of bull-head track testing out what might be possible in such a small space. I had the idea that it would be pretty limited operation, but putting the engine shed on a kick back giving a little more running length, and two sidings to swap wagons between, appearing to go further up the line under a road bridge. The plan was then curved a little, so that it was more visually interesting, I often find that doing this makes a big difference to how a layout feels. Some basic structures were mocked up in cardboard, this process allows you to visualise a scene a little better and although I had a good idea from the sketches, they proved the concept was worth pursuing further... ...especially seeing this view, the DJ Models Austerity and some Accurascale hoppers under the bridge. The girder is a Peco example re-used for the third time from a childhood layout - this featured on the first layout my Dad built for me when we lived in London, and then survived a move to Chester, where it was re-used on a bridge on a much larger layout. I kept it for posterity and it's nice to re-use things, I'll chop it down to fit. The ply base (9mm) was cut to shape, and two ends 18cm tall made up. The back was added in 6mm MDF, and then a front fascia with small wings and the land form for the bridge included was glued on. Nothing rocket science, in face nothing clever at all - this is largely a working diorama so won't need any fancy wiring or point control. I'm relying on the integral back and ends to provide the box structure strength you'd normally aim to get from the under the board box structure in a conventional cameo layout, but since we're severely lacking in headroom this will suffice. Finally, shown here in place above my bench, but below East Works. The next stage is to add a small top and see if LED lighting overpowers at such a low height, if so, I'll need to look at dimming them or adding a diffuser, I want to make the lid integral for added strength. Anyhow, the points are on order and should be due in the next few days, I'll push on between commission work with this, alongside Mollington Road, which is also progressing - this weekend I've added the missing structures, so I'll post about this separately. Until then, more soon...
  14. To mark the 80th anniversary of 1940 and the second world war, the Dover demo is based on the Dover gun batteries. There will also be a 1940s armoured train along with numerous railway guns.
  15. The first 8 running lines of Tooley Street before the lines curve sharply to the left past Southwark Cathedral Junction, for the City or West End
  16. Hi Everyone. This is my new micro layout based on Paul A Lunns micro layout that appeared in the latest model rail. The track plan is virtually the same and I'm going to reeuse things I have lying about and I'm going to spend as little as possible on new things for the layout. So far I have painted the baseboard which is a 4ft x 1ft pine shelf I have had for ages and track is laid which I had from a previous dismantled layout. Only thing I have bought is a superquick platform. Here are a couple of photos: The layout has progressed slightly since I took these, a platform has been added. More soon. Jerry.
  17. Hi Everyone. This is the original hardlia yard: Mikkel on Rmweb asked me if I was going to extend the original hardlia yard to which I said no, I didn't want to spoil the original so it got me thinking and I have decided to build a new version based on the old version. More on this soon. Jerry.
  18. I have been fascinated by railways, real and model, for most of my life. Like many of us of a certain age, railway modelling started with Hornby 0 gauge clockwork – the 101 tank set in my case, although I think that I remember a Mettoy set too. Model railways as such began when my younger brother and I deployed the said Hornby in our sand pit. Needless to say we were in trouble for that, but it was a start on a railway in the landscape. Over the years I have made a number of further starts on the modelling, but have never got to a point where something could be seen as complete. Nevertheless my enthusiasm has never waned, and indeed railways became a major part of my life. I have had a wonderful career that for the most part has been with both rail-based freight and in urban public transport. However the real railway and family tended to get in the way of modelling. I am now ready to recommence work on my model railway. The most progress occurred when I was recuperating from open heart surgery over a decade ago. That is when Fal Vale was built – baseboards were constructed, track was laid, the electrics were completed and structures and scenery built. But it never really got to the operational stage and spent most of its life idle, and later crated up for removal. I spent some 25 years in Sydney after a career move, but when I retired some three years ago I sold my house there and moved back to my home town of Adelaide, South Australia. I should have had time to make a new start. It was not to be, as my earlier bovine heart valve reached the end of its useful life, just like Sir Mick Jagger’s - at least I am in good company! This blog is intended to document progress as a means of inspiration (for me) to get on with it. These photos of the un-crating might be of interest. There is method in my madness of buying a house with a double garage when I only have one car.
  19. The time has come to make a start on the next project of mine. The timber has been bought today and is now acclimatising in the living room. I do this with all new timber these days after building Fort Myers 25 years ago where the boards were made of the same material, MDF on 2 x 1 inch softwood. Back then I built the boards in a friends workshop then set them up at home and laid the track. In the central heated room they all bowed due to the MDF shrinking more than the softwood. Luckily I only needed to replace the softwood along the long sides and to this day the boards are still fine. So in a few days time the boards will be assembled and set up on my existing legs. The layout will be 12 feet by 3 feet. It will be 4mm scale and a UK location. I have virtually all the rolling stock and the main building has been commenced but not a lot to show. it will be DCC with block detection, hopefully with some automation Its first show at present is November 2020. I will reveal more once the invite is reconfirmed. Now do I call the layout ' Blackmoor' or Blackmoor Gate' which I think more people will relate to despite the station actually being called ' Blackmoor' at the time of the model is being set , circa 1930.
  20. Hi Everyone. Having read another post on here I've been inspired by Balls Yard but don't know much about the layout apart from a track plan and it inspired Colin French to build Leedsham street yard. I know it's about 1' 9" inches long or so. Can anyone help with any information or possibly a photo of the layout, Any information will be greatly appreciated. Jerry.
  21. After much contemplation I am offering for sale my Exhibition Model Railway Layout 'Earl's Court' This award winning layout has appeared at over 50 exhibitions, including Warley, Alexander Palace, Doncaster, Railex....etc It has also been featured in Model Rail, BRM Magazine and Railway Modeller. Included in the sale is.... The main scenic board, together with front industrial buildings. The centre board, which houses the electronics, including the over-bridge with its shops. The third board, which completes the fiddle yard. The front panel, which includes the row of highly detailed shops, complete with glazed viewing slots to see stock and the fiddle yard. All legs and supports plus front curtain. Lighting strip. Many buildings include interior detailing and lighting. No stock is included in the sale. Nor the dcc controller, although the sockets for NCE Powercab will be left in situ. The layout is approx 10'6" long and breaks down into sections for easy transport. Track is Peco code 75 with some tracks being modelled as 4 rail to suit North London Lines and Underground. Could easily be converted to 3 rail SR. There are no points on the scenic section but points in the fiddle yard are Peco Electrofrog, controlled with Seep switches. The multiple tracks in the fiddle yard allow a variety of stock movements to take place. More photos can be seen at ecmr.webs.com Here's what the renowned modeller Chris Nevard had to say about the layout http://nevardmedia.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/a-most-unusual-gwr-branch-line-terminus.html Collection from Witney, Oxfordshire. Delivery may be possible by van at 25p/mile return trip. It is listed on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174106871927 If you feel you may be interested in the layout please feel free to message me. I'm hoping it goes to a good home!
  22. Hi Everyone. As some of you will know I have been away from railway modeling for a while, I have been concentrating on my new business. Anyway, this is my new layout and it's based on the billy bookcase oo gauge layout in BRM magazine. It's 3ft x 1ft plus a little fiddle stick on the right hand side. So far track is laid and wired and I have been testing it. Here is a quick photo: More soon. Jerry.
  23. Camden77

    Under the roof

    The first section is laid out, covering the section under the roof, next step is to lay the rest of the platform length and get the Dremel out. A solitary CK sits at the buffer end of Platform 3.
  24. I wonder if anyone can help. I've planned a GWR layout but now looking to work out what signals I need. Is there anyone that could advise on where I should have the various different signals on the plan?
  25. Hi all As I've been building my new layout I've been trying to imagine the story behind it. As I'm using this blog as a record of my build I thought I'd make a few notes on what is coming in the future. As I've already mentioned the station is squarely based around Acklington station - my closest ECML halt. I've been to site armed with my camera and taken many photographs. Although the main station building is now private dwellings it is wonderful to see all the original architecture. The goods shed is also based on Acklington but has been switched to the other side of the main line due to space restrictions. The village behind the station will have cottages based on various local buildings from Acklington, Felton, Warkworth and Denwick. These will be scratch built using a combination of hard foam, card and DAS clay. I have some Metcalf building I may put in place temporarily around the layout until the scratch built items are ready. The castle on the hill is inspired by Bamburgh Castle but I have nothing like the space required for a scale model here. Instead I will be restyling the Noch “Hohenstein” castle which I picked up on eBay for a very low price. It gives me a good starting point - I had started to build a plastic kit (Miniart 1:72 Scale Medieval Castle) but IMHO the kit is very poor quality especially if like me you are used to Tamiya, Faller and the newly tooled Airfix models. Also the stonework looks far to uniform and perfect and the joins need a lot of work including around all the crenellations. So the Noch castle is just a representation of the many Northumberland castles around us - parts of the Noch structure look very similar to Dunstanburgh castle which is just a short drive away. Fred Dibnah is seen here inspecting the tower, I hope it's still there in the morning! The final piece of Noch I'm using is a tunnel mouth to go below the castle. This is inspired by the likes of Bramhope and Clayton tunnel portals, this does not fit perfectly with a local landmark - to say the least- but I just love the eccentricity of these structures and wanted to have one on my layout. After this the structures will be mainly scratch built, this includes the three road engine shed adjacent to the turntable (Heljan DCC item), and a coaching inn - I'll use the metcalfe one temporarily but want to build one based on some local buildings. I'm also thinking through an idea to represent RAF Acklington in the far left hand corner of the layout. The airfield opened in 1916 and was a Royal Flying Corps airfield, In April 1918 the RAF took over but only until 1920 when it was closed. In 1938 it was reopened and was then active until 1972 - I have researched this site in depth having a keen interest in the war time RAF aircraft - mainly instilled by my father who did his national service with the RAF. I'll do a little more on Acklington station now before getting back to the track bed next week. I briefly posted this next link on my last blog entry but I think it caused an issue so I'll try again here but will not edit this later. It's just a slideshow of my progress to date that I have posted on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIwX_ugU2pg
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