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Found 7 results

  1. Continuing my 40+ year love affair with Corail compartment coaches, I have just placed 15 new models in my Shapeways shop:- A5t2u Vu75 Téoz (2 versions) B3Su Téoz (2 versions Vu78 and VU86) B7uh Vu83 Intercités and TER (Sliding plug door for handicapped access) B11u Corail, Intercités and TER - (4 versions Vu75, Vu78,Vu83, Vu83 sliding plug doors) (Vu80 available from Piko) A9u Vu75 Corail and TER A10u Vu78 Corail, intercités and TER (different from the Piko version) A4B6u Vu75 Corail and TER B6Du Vu86 (different from the Piko Vu78) B12u B3t7u A6t5u Vu85 (Cabine Huit and TER) B5uxh réversible - matches up with the cab module already available on Shapeways from "Les petits trains de Théo". The bodies are designed to reuse parts from Roco/Fleischmann Eurofima whilst different in many ways (bogies and skirts) still look convincing with the new bodies on. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/moving-buses
  2. Hi all, I have made an update on my blog http://nscalenswgrandpommy.blogspot.com.au/
  3. Hello I've been blogging about real-World locations that might make good modules or cameos on my own website for a while now and I've recently become very interested in building T-Trak modules. In a nutshell, T-Trak is a set of standards for building very small modules. The standard ‘single’ module is only 308mm wide and 355mm deep. If you model in N scale like I do this means that a ‘single’ module represents about 50m x 57m of the real World. You can find out more about T-Trak here: http://www.t-trak.org/ As it's winter and I lack workshop space I need to be able to build the modules inside the house with simple tools using a strong, light material. Using foamcore board seemed like a solution. Tho only thing is I've built experimental formboard modules/layouts in the past using the kind of foamcore that can be found in the average hobby or art store but I've never been completely satisfied with the results. They tended to warp when damp/wet and the material never seemed as strong as advocates of the method made out. Then I got my hands on some Gatorboard... Gator Board is a heavy-duty foam board. The surface of Gator Board is made from wood pulp mixed with a fibreglass plastic and is advertised as being much tougher than regular foam board. The foam used between the surfaces also seemed to be denser than regular foam board. Now I've put a module together using it I can confirm that Gator Board is definitely much tougher than regular foam board! In the past I've cut foam board cleanly with a couple of passes of a scalpel but a scalpel barely scratched the surface of Gator Board. Using a mount board cutter was a complete failure and I ended up using a Stanley knife. Here's the basic dimensions of a T-Trak single module: The module should be 70mm high. The Gator Board I'm using is 10mm thick so sides are 60mm high and the deck adds 10mm to this to arrive at 70mm high. The modules are 308mm wide and 355mm deep. Front and back faces are fixed inside the side faces so are actually cut 288mm wide. So to create the module I needed: Two side faces 355mm x 60mm. Two front/back faces 288mm x 60mm. One deck (or top surface) 355mm x 308mm. I measured and marked my cuts from the factory cut side of the Gator Board using another small piece to keep my ruler right on the edge of the board. It's hard to visualise so here is a picture: I tried to always keep a factory edge where the small piece of board meets the cutting mat and where the piece being marked meets the small guide piece. I cut the pieces using multiple passes of a Stanley knife (with a fresh blade) using the long ruler that came with my Jakar mountboard cutting kit to guide the blade. As the board is tough even with the rulers rubber backing I needed to apply quite a bit of pressure to keep the ruler in place and the blade cutting straight. Now I may have been trying to force the knife to cut too quickly (probably) but I struggled to end up with a square cuts. Thankfully, this is where the toughness of the Gator Board helped. I was actually able to gently sand any not-quite-square cut edges with sandpaper! To keep my sanding efforts square I wrapped the sandpaper around another piece of Gator Board and tried to keep this flat as possible. It actually worked very well. It was only when putting this posts together that I remembered the facing contains glass fibres so sanding without a mask really isn't a good idea. Don't do what I did, wear a mask if you sand the board. I glued the pieces together with PVA glue (the bottle no longer has a label but I think it's some kind of Tacky glue as it's quite thick). I started by attaching one of the long side-pieces to the top deck, then an end, then the second side-piece and finally the second end-piece. Once the glue started to setup, I flipped the module over and put it under some weight to finish drying. It's not easy getting everything into position correctly and keeping it there. Trying to do it all in one go did lead to some swearing. There has to be an easier way of doing this and I'll have a think about this before I do this again. While gluing everything together it also became clear that one of my cuts wasn't quite as good as it should have been and there was a small gap where one of the end pieces touched a side piece. I had to inject a little bit of superglue gel into the gap as it was too late to re-cut or shape the edge of the board. Those of you with eagle eyes will also have noticed a dink in the bottom corner of the module already. That's actually from cutting where the knife drops off the edge of the board but it shows that even though Gator Board is much tougher than foam board you still have to be careful. However the final construction feels very robust, much more so than regular foamboard and it's should be able to take quite a bit of weight despite being very light. That's about it. A quick, easy and relatively cheap way to create a T-Trak module. Now all I've got to do is decide what to build on it. Simon
  4. Hello everyone I've had some time on my hands recently so I've been able to get on with a project I've wanted to tackle for sometime: producing some detailed models of ISO and European tanktainers in N scale (1:160). I've been planning with FreeCAD for a number of years so I could jump straight into producing the CAD files but my first print was still very much a learning experience. Here's what I did wrong I created the model as two parts (frame with tank as separate model) which meant it was very expensive to print. You'll find a thread on that on RMWeb. I put attachment tab slots in the wrong places, which made parts of the frame delicate and the frame cracked when trying to use the tabs/slots. I accidentally uploaded a version of the model with a solid tank. More unnecessary expense However it wasn't all negative, one of the things I was most worried about, the print quality of the tank/tube, wasn't an issue at all. The printed model came out with an almost layerless finish. The material wasn't fragile and the frame printed really well, even right at the limits of what Shapeway say is possible (some parts of the frame were only 0.6mm x 0.6mm) So I ploughed on. The first step was to redesign the first model incorporating the lessons learnt. Note the following pictures of the latest models are what they will look like when assembled, they actually go to the printers as two or more separate pieces (tank, tank end caps and frames) joined by sprues. The pieces are cut off the sprues and glued together to create what is shown in these pictures: Once, I'd done that I decided I really wanted to test the limit of what Shapeways could do so I choose a tanktainer with intricate frame detail: Then I found a really interesting prototype in the form of a bromine transportation tank: Finally I had a go at a European swaptank: You'll notice none of the models have walkways, ladders or very small details like ADR warning signs as I felt these would come out better as an etch rather than being printed. All these models are currently at the printers but I'll update when I get them back. Simon
  5. I've done some updates on my N scale modelling blog, I hope it encourages you too to have a go: http://nscalenswgran...logspot.com.au/
  6. Wow, doesn't time fly? Back in January I wrote my first post about how I built a light-weight and relatively cheap T-Trak module using Gatorboard. Since then almost three months have passed but in that time I've finally decided what to model and have actually made a start. So what did I chose to build on my first module? After weeks of deliberation, trying to decide whether to create a river bridge scene, a US rail-served industrial building, a city scene or a road bridge, I can now announce the winning idea is a Berlin Stadtbahn scene. More specifically, I've chosen to model this view down Universitätsstraße. It’s going to be quite a project but I like to throw myself in the deep-end. I’ve always wanted to create a European city scene having been inspired by the Cross Street layout of David Lund, the exhibition layout Schwungischerplatz and the scratch-built card and plastic building models of Grahame here on RMWeb. I have to admit it won’t be a prototypical model as I’ll be taking some liberties with the buildings in the scene. The coffee shop on the right is staying but I’ve found another building I want to put in the foreground on the left and also on either side of the road behind the tracks. Here’s a map of the scene with T-Trak module sized overlays; Universitätsstraße is on the right: I’ve transferred a rough plan to the surface of the Gatorboard and can confirm everything I want to include fits on the module. I’m currently creating scale drawings of the roads, pavements and buildings before I start cutting and assembling. Watch this space for progress reports and photographs…
  7. Hi Folks, Was shopping today and came across this in a discount store. It's a model to 1:125 scale of Beatrix Potter's house. If it's of interest to 'N' 2mm modellers, check out the link to Amazon here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/BEATRIX-POTTER-RABBIT-Sawrey-Painted/dp/B00GZKA7HK or, get back to me and I'm willing to return and purchase them if you're seriously interested. (I will add a little fuel and postage). There were two on the shelf today. I guess they could obtain more. Appear to be solid resin. Very nicely decorated and feel of good quality. They don't seem to be hollow. Windows are all painted. Thought it might be of interest. Cheers, Bob
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