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Found 30 results

  1. Hi all, It's been a long time since I last started a topic on this forum and thought I'd share the result of my first proper attempt at weathering an N gauge locomotive. The K3 loco and tender bodies are one of my 3D prints which has been modified to fit the Farish N Class chassis and V2 tender. The locomotive has been hand lined (with the exception of the boiler bands which are Fox Transfers) using a ruling pen. The weathering is a mixture of airbrushing and weathering powders and is probably a little too dirty for the 1930s but I'm quite happy with the result overall. Anyway enough waffling, here is the picture... I'll see about writing a more meaningful post once I'm back from holiday.
  2. OK, I am officially mad! I may be attempting this: https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/1/13/Im1839Enc-p399.jpg I hope to possibly have the 'loco-y' bit done by the end of today, with the rest possibly following if I still have any sanity left! For those who don't know, I hope David ('Runs as Required') doesn't mind me copying the information that he sent me last night:
  3. http://www.shapeways.com/shops/sparkshotcustomcreationsscc New launch range of kits and bits! The video shows some 00 engines built, painted and running proving they can be made functional. They are in the cheapest material though so for best finish the finer stuff is recommended, details in the vid. I've kept this quiet for many reasons in case you are wondering. There are P4 chassis also but not currently available as I need to refine them more first. Please have a look at the vid and the shop and see what you think.
  4. I am attaching pictures of the current state of progress in the commissioning of 4mm SDJR No.25a. for my layout of Writhlington Colliery c.1928. The Loco was built in its original form in 1885 and the model depicts its form immediately before it was scrapped in 1929. The model, in 4mm, is only 84mm buffer to buffer, and is in two parts. Cleaning of printer lines is required on the flat open surfaces of the Saddle Tank:unlike another's experience, the internal Firebox is cleanly printed. A compromise from 5'1" to 5'3" was made for the driver wheelbase to accommodate available motion parts until a dedicated etch can be drawn. Detail is gradually being added. The motor is from the Terrier, worm filed off, and replaced with 43:1 gear set. The 9mm 6-spoke Pony (not shown) is part of the print. There is plenty of room within for weight. This has been a 15 year quest, collecting pictures and information. There are many questions still unanswered.
  5. So, I asked recently for requests, but on second thoughts I decided to select a short-ish list of locos I am considering doing next, along with a few other questions. I can't promise how long it will be until they are made available for sale, but I could do with getting them done all the same! Any Questions? Yes? My greatest apologies sir, but no we don't do cycling lions. I am most awfully sorry sir, but you understand that this is the pre-grouping segment of this board on which ideas can be exchanged. Good Day sir, if I may escort you to the door...
  6. Hi all, currently sorting through several planned models I will be drawing up at some point, all of which will either be used on a planned layout (just a base board at the moment) or simply because I fancy a model of them. Unless stated otherwise, all are 7mm scale. O-16.5mm Locomotives: Lagos Steam Tramway Hunslet Locomotive (chassis tbc) Kaunia-Dharlla Railway 0-6-0T (possibly Bachmann/Mainline J72) Fairymead Sugar Mill 4wd Diesel Mechanical Locomotive (chassis tbc) O9 Locomotives (Miniature): RHDR No. 4 "The Bug" 0-4-0TT (Fleischmann 7000 chassis) R&ER "River Esk" (chassis tbc) R&ER "Bonnie Dundee" (chassis tbc) R&ER Basset Lowke 4-4-2 (chassis possibly going to be 100% custom) O9 Locomotives (Estate): Groudle Glen Railway Polar Bear & Sea Lion (small enough for O9, Modified Farish 61XX chassis) R&ER Ella 0-6-0T (chassis tbc) R&ER Muriel 0-8-0T (chassis tbc) Stock: O9 - R&ER styled open & closed coaches (12 seater bogie) Hopefully you aren't bored yet, so I'll supply some photos of my currently complete locos (awaiting them being printed) to bide the time. Johnny
  7. Preston and District Model Railway Society have started on a new layout called Euxton which is a 4 track layout based around a junction and station a few miles south of Preston on the West Coast Mainline. It is modern image so we need several 4 aspect colour light signals for the layout. I have already built some N gauge signals for my own layout using 3D printing so thought I would try having them printed at OO scale for the new layout. N gauge In the end I did not do a lot to the files to print them at the larger scale since in N gauge the detail was close to the minimums allowed and it seemed that Shapeways have changed their minimums slightly since bringing in their latest Frosted Extreme Detail printing. I adjusted the thickness of the plate around the signal head and changed the size of the led in signal casing. I left the ladder at twice the thickness of the N gauge model and it looks little heavy but should disappear into the background once on the layout. We needed three different types of signal for the layout; a 4 aspect head on a straight pole, a 4 aspect head on an offset post with the head mounted on a bar offset a few feet towards the track and a 4 aspect head with a left feather for the approach to the junction. The 3D models were built up into a block of 9 signals with a mix of each type so we had spares. I always clean the models with alcohol to get the last of the wax off before a coat of Halford grey primer. I also put a coat of black all over the head inside and out to ensure no bleed through the plastic. The surface mount leds are PLCC-2 size which are quite common and have enough sources to find a good colour green. I got these from Farnell 2322106 LED 1411 Green 525nm 2322111 LED 1411 YELLOW 590nm 2322107 LED 1411 RED 625nm So far I've only made up the offset head signal. This is the easiest because the back of the head is clear. The straight signal has the railings more in the way of the rear of the head. I used a 1mm fine tip iron and cheap stereo microscope but, unlike the N gauge signals, they could probably be soldered while viewing using a magnifying lens like an desk magnifier with a light in it. Dave
  8. Hi all, decided to have a go at OO9 after a few failed attempts. To start out I wanted to do something that comes across as big and bulky, so I started out with the Kato 11-103 chassis. With some time, I've designed a loco that meets my needs well and should be good for testing clearences on the layout (should one ever be built) Had a few hours playing about in Google Sketchup and came up with this. It's not going to be everyone's cup of tea but it suits me. Sent off for a test print so I shall report on it when it's delivered. Will detail it when it gets here, hopefully sooner rather than later.
  9. I am becoming more and more aware of the potential for modelling of technologies such as laser cutting, three dimension printing, and not forgetting photo-etching. All of these depend on a basic knowledge of CAD to produce the data from which the final products are made. I wonder if anyone knows of any workshops on the use of CAD in these contexts for model makers? Many modellers need to make repeat runs of simple things like platform canopy brackets, roof trusses etc., for which the ideal medium is etched brass. Many are also designing buildings which are produced by laser cutting of wood or plastic. A few are beginning to use 3D printing for all sorts of things, including loco bodies or components to modify RTR models. I think that these new technologies will soon become commonplace and few of us will continue to cut lacy bits of pasticard or fabricate complex shapes from bits of brass. We will mostly produce a CAD file which we either send to our own 3D printer or laser cutter or to a shop providing the service. I am conscious of being left behind what is rapidly becoming the mainstream of finescale modellers. Can you help, please? Ian
  10. Anyone interested in pooling work on 3D printing of S&DJR items?
  11. More progress on the LTF-25 bogie and the JHA this month. Back in August, I was offered the chance to acquire 5 scratch-built JHA bodies. This seemed like a good solution in order to get a mini rake of 5 wagons up and running quickly. Colin Craig kindly supplied me with a few more wheelsets at Scaleforum so I've now been able to put the first wagon together with the better pair of my test print bogies. Although the wagon bodies could do with a bit more detailing, rather than go to town on them, I've decided to simply paint, transfer and weather them until I finish my own bodies. The following shots are of the first wagon sprayed with Phoenix paint (ARC mustard & grey). I've assembled and painted enough of Colin's 4mm diameter etched handwheels to do the mini rake of 5 but I want to make sure that the paint job is correct before fitting these. I'm planning to fit Kadees to all vehicles and buffers to the outer vehicles. Finally, I tested fitting in brass bushes as bearings into one of the test printed bogies. I had to drill out the axle holes to 3mm and then inserted the bushes from the front of the bogie. They are a snug fit and the front of the wheel stops them from coming out. They are also fairly free running too. The main faff is fitting the wheels as they both need to come off the axle in order to get them in place. This is a delicate operation but by following a few basic "rules" and the aid of a back to back gauge it can be accomplished quite easily without breaking any of the fine detail. I'm not really happy with the colour of the Phoenix paints: they seem a little bit dark compared to prototype photos. I've linked to a couple of prototype photos below that I've found on the web. Gareth Bayer's shots were taken in the late 90s and the wagons have had a chance to fade and weather down a bit. However, even in the second shot (taken early 90s) the grey looks quite a bit lighter. If anyone has good side-on colour shots of these wagons from the period when they were new then I'd love to see them for a comparison.
  12. Hi all, Just making a start Designing some Laser cut Bungalows. Model will also include more Laser cut and 3D Printed, Garden and Landscape accessories as i design and build them. Model is test bed for a larger Layout Paul
  13. Hi all i have been browsing the internet looking for a good image to use as reference for the internals of a smokebox that i hope to model up in Cad and 3D print for my battle of Britain class, however i cannot locate an image of one that's not stripped out for restoration or appears to me (i maybe wrong) like it is missing a few bits. My question to you fine lady's and gents is would any of you know where i could get a good photo or even drawing that i could base my 3D model on any comments would be greatly appreciated ,thanks all, Jon
  14. As part of my Melyn Valley Railway project (link to the thread in my signature), there will be a narrow gauge Upper Melyn Tramway feeding in, for the locos, I fancied an elderly Fletcher Jennings as the initial motive power for the line, still wheezing away in old age in the 1920s. Wanting something different to the Talyllyn or Dolgoch seen on a number of layouts. Many months ago, I embarked on a project which yesterday turned into something real for the first time with the arrival of a parcel. The project is a 3D printed model of 'Townsend Hook', comprising a main body, with separate smokebox door, firebox and cab roof. A straight, square and pretty accurate canvas to which I can add as much detail as I want. All designed to fit on a modified Branchlines 'Talyllyn' chassis. There are a couple of compromises to make a 3ft 2 3/4in gauge loco fit on a chassis that's 16.5mm gauge, though remarkably few. The chassis is the correct wheelbase and wheel diameter, the main compromise here being that 'Talyllyn' is a double slide bar loco, whereas 'Townsend Hook' is a single slidebar loco. But that's a compromise I'm willing to take. To achieve a reasonable price for the print, I'm having four made, with three friends paying for the other three to help me out. The photos show the parts straight from the box placed on the Talyllyn chassis not having had any work on the surface finish, which I reckon is pretty good for a 3D printed model. This one shows the component parts. Thought it worth starting a separate thread in the narrow gauge section for the build, which will be carried out in parallel to the standard gauge modelling I'm in the middle of. My intention was to use 3D printing as an aid to my own scratch building and producing some of the parts that would be more difficult for me to scratch build. Once I've built mine, my intention is that should others want a 3D print to aid them in their scratch building then I would make it available should there be sufficient demand. Cheers, Andrew
  15. Hello Im on a learning curve designing things for 3D printing. I think at the moment Shapeways has things pretty much sewn up when it comes to Model Railways with thier Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD) as the majority of people seem to be using it. It has taken a few attempts to get something actually printed as I had some areas it couldnt print to start with. I know that Shapeways has some design hints and tips on thier website for FUD but I thought it would be worth asking the question on here. So, if you have any experiences with FUD, things you have learnt, or any hints and tips in general that you think are worth sharing for other up-and-comming designers share them here.... Missy
  16. Hi all, I feel that my original N gauge L1 body (designed c. 2009-10) is looking a little dated now. Also, when I originally designed it, a suitable donor chassis was not available. Originally, it was done as a one off commission with a custom built chassis (by N-Stars of Holland) and only added to the Shapeways shop as a scratch aid following several requests. Since then the Farish 2MT has been released with has an almost perfect coupled wheelbase (and driving wheel diameter) for Thompson's L1. I've still got a way to go with the final detailing of this one. The body pictured above covers nos. 67740-67765 as built by the North British Loco Works. Ultimately I'll be doing the Darlington, Stephenson & Hawthorn and earlier North British versions as well - leaving only the prototype (no. 9000/67701) not covered. The old version is still available from my Shapeways shop but will be withdrawn once these versions are uploaded - that might be a few months yet as I'll need to do the test build (and any revisions from that) first. Also the second revision of the locomotive below is about to start its test build (noticed the missing snifting valve behind the chimney on the one below!). A hopper bunkered V3 to go along with the V1 above is also in the works. Both the V1 and V3 are designed to fit the Farish N class chassis (or rather will be once I've stopped making silly mistakes in the CAD - fingers crossed this time!)
  17. Hello I am new to this site and am looking to get into 3D printing, mostly because I have over 20yrs of professional experience in 3D modelling and a big interest in Model Railways. I'm keen to get started, and to kick off I thought I would model the MR brake, mostly because my dad has always wanted one, and besides the kits, they have never gotten round to making a 4mm version in ready to run. So I wanted to ask you knowledgeable folks on here if I had made any glaring errors and would be keen to get your thoughts. Please ignore the wheels as I intend to purchase wheels to place in the model and these are only for illustrations purposes hence why they are missing the axle. Out of interest this took around 6hrs to model in 3D for both versions, and I intend to break up the model into 4 components for printing, the roof, the main body, and then both sides of underframe/carriage so I can place the wheels in once I have the sizing correct, and add weight to the interior of the brake if needed. I acquired the drawings online, they were basic, but had the right scaling, the details I have gathered from photographs. Many thanks and would appreciate any feedback you care to give me, as I want to get this as accurate as possible. And equally if this turns out fairly successful then I would like to have a go at making some more pre-grouping rolling stock
  18. Hello everyone I've had some time on my hands recently so I've been able to get on with a project I've wanted to tackle for sometime: producing some detailed models of ISO and European tanktainers in N scale (1:160). I've been planning with FreeCAD for a number of years so I could jump straight into producing the CAD files but my first print was still very much a learning experience. Here's what I did wrong I created the model as two parts (frame with tank as separate model) which meant it was very expensive to print. You'll find a thread on that on RMWeb. I put attachment tab slots in the wrong places, which made parts of the frame delicate and the frame cracked when trying to use the tabs/slots. I accidentally uploaded a version of the model with a solid tank. More unnecessary expense However it wasn't all negative, one of the things I was most worried about, the print quality of the tank/tube, wasn't an issue at all. The printed model came out with an almost layerless finish. The material wasn't fragile and the frame printed really well, even right at the limits of what Shapeway say is possible (some parts of the frame were only 0.6mm x 0.6mm) So I ploughed on. The first step was to redesign the first model incorporating the lessons learnt. Note the following pictures of the latest models are what they will look like when assembled, they actually go to the printers as two or more separate pieces (tank, tank end caps and frames) joined by sprues. The pieces are cut off the sprues and glued together to create what is shown in these pictures: Once, I'd done that I decided I really wanted to test the limit of what Shapeways could do so I choose a tanktainer with intricate frame detail: Then I found a really interesting prototype in the form of a bromine transportation tank: Finally I had a go at a European swaptank: You'll notice none of the models have walkways, ladders or very small details like ADR warning signs as I felt these would come out better as an etch rather than being printed. All these models are currently at the printers but I'll update when I get them back. Simon
  19. Hi all, Modelling has been sporadic over the last few years due to various problems that I had hoped were in the past but obviously not quite yet. However, I am very keen to get back into the swing of things properly so have decided to add this effort to the challenge. I'm not actually sure where this lies as I'll be using my own CAD and 3D printed body for the build. The chassis will be made up of various commercial components which will not be 100% accurate but I hope will give a good representation of the prototype. The CAD was largely completed a year or so ago but never made it to the printing stage, partly due to the lack of a suitable chassis solution and partly due to lack of mojo - I hope that the judges do not feel that this constitutes too large a part of the build to be accepted. Anyway, enough waffling. Without further ado, I present the current state of play with my N gauge Gresley P1 2-8-2 heavy freight loco. The 3D print is the third test print I've done to get various bits and pieces to fit correctly. The loco chassis is from a Dapol 28xx (wheelbase is wrong and driving wheels are slightly too small - which solves some clearance issues) with a V2 Cartazzi truck and 3MT pony truck at the front. Cylinders are also from a V2 however I think that, due to a lack of suitable mounting points for the Cartazzi and cylinders, these will end up being printed as integral components on the body (some more CAD work needed here). The print is pretty much straight from the machine and is shown in it's raw state with no cleanup. Ignore the tender, it is not anything like the prototype's, however the loco didn't seem right without it so a spare Farish B1 tender kindly stood in. The tender CAD is part complete but I've still got to detail it, design the frames and decide how to mount the wheels and motor. Don't expect a lighting quick build as some others have managed to do but I will try and finish the model before too long.
  20. Hi all, Its been awhile since I posted anything in this part of the forum - actually its been awhile since I posted any personal modelling progress on here but life the universe and everything seems to have a habit of getting in the way at present! To help jump start a stalled project I thought I'd post some pictures and information on what I've been up to. I decided to see what could actually be done with one of my 3D printed K3 bodies that occasionally crop up in the 3D printing forum. As this thread will focus on my actually completing a project, I thought it more appropriate that this thread be included in the Kit Building and Scratch Building section (mods please feel free to relocated this should you so desire)... I won't go into the process of designing the 3D printed body here as that has been covered before in other areas of the forum. The body was designed to fit onto a Farish V2 chassis but problems with the oversize wheels left this project dead. The introduction of the Farish B1 changed this. I'd suspected from the start that the B1's driving wheels were undersized and a quick measuring up session with one of the superb models proved that I was correct (approx. 5'9). I managed to obtain a spare set of driving wheels and set about converting the V2 chassis to accept these. This was not as easy to do as it sounds. The B1's axles are slightly narrower than the V2's which left my first attempt to simply fit the gear to the B1's axle as a total failure! Not admitting defeat I took a tapered broad to the centre driving wheel's plastic bushes and reamed these out to 1.4mm so that they would accept the V2 axle - not as easy to do as its been to write about it as the plastic bush kept coming away from the wheel but a little patience and a lot of luck saw this done with the axles still fitting squarely to the wheels... After a bit of tinkering, I got the wheel quartering sufficient to get the chassis running, its still sticking a little but I'm convinced this is actually due to poor electrical pick up due to the different wheels - a new pick up system will be designed at a latter date. Having got this far I offered the body to the chassis and found it was riding about 1.5mm too high. Out came the files and I lowered the cylinders and valve gear retainer slot by about 1mm. This still leaves the body a little high but the motor is getting in the way of further lowering and I'm not brave enough to take a file to that! Having decided that enough was enough with the chassis I turned my attention to the body. A couple of coats of Halford primer showed that I needed to do some rubbing down to remove all traces of the printing process. This done I sprayed the loco and tender bodies with Halfords matt black followed but a coat of clear lacquer. Now came the really fun bit, the lining. I obtained a bow pen a little while ago now and have been playing with it to try and get consistent lines. Having managed to get to the point where I was achieving 85% success I loaded the pen with some red paint and attacked the model! Next up were the boiler bands; I wasn't happy with some transfers I'd obtained and rather that risk further disappointment I looked for another solution. This came from Dr Tim Watson who suggested I use sellotape. I cut the tape to form 0.5mm wide bands and lined the edges red, as I was applying these to a black base colour I didn't think that I would need to pre-paint the bands black – please have a look at the pictures a judge for yourselves if you think I was right or not! Having got this far, the bodies got another coat of clear lacquer before I proceeded with lettering and numbering. These was done using fox transfers which, once dry got one more spray with clear lacquer to seal them in. That pretty much brings the project to its current state. I've got to graft the V2's valve gear onto the B1 wheel set. This will require the replacement of the crank as I need to screw this to the new wheels while the V2 uses a push fit pin arrangement. Pictures are attached below, please let me know what you think and any suggestions regarding the valve gear would be most appreciated!
  21. I thought about updating my blog but I don't like the way blogs stifle discussion by breaking up content, so I have decided to just do a thread. Any way, as I'm starting the thread I should probably add some content: First up, an N Scale Class 143. This is a 3D Print I produced the 3D model for, the material is FUD from Shapeways and the primer is Halfords Red Oxide. The chassis will be a couple of Kato 2 axle chassis under each vehicle. I tried to devise a method of extending a single chassis but it's only really practical to have two chassis cut into two thirds and put back to back. I also want to have all wheel drive. Next up is an N Scale BIA covered steel wagon, these were converted from BBAs (which I have also done a model of). Again this is a FUD 3D Print I produced the 3D model for. This will run on a small layout I'm building (ASW - Tidal Works, soon to appear in the Layout section.) I hope this is of some interest! I'll try and update the thread with progress every couple of days. All the best, Jack
  22. Hello all, Having been a bit of a lurker around this section for RMweb for a while, and starting to gain an interest for these 'little' engines, I had started doing a Peckett 1687/W6 in CAD to have 3D printed back in May. Now nearing completion and wanting to do some more models of industrial prototypes, I thought this the best place to ask an opinion on what next? I have already been asked about a number of different ideas, from the lowest standard gauge locomotive (Peckett 1900), to the Cadburys Avonsides, and even the Mersey Railway 0-6-4Ts*, so I thought I'd open it up to those who know the industrials the best. The list of suggestions I have considered/received is below. Please feel free to tell me if you would be interested in any of those listed, or even what you might like to see, and I'll see what can be done. Alternatively, if you wish, feel free to say 'go away'. I'm more than happy to listen! Steam locomotives *Avonside 0-4-0T (Cadburys locomotives) *Bagnall 0-4-0ST (Port of Par pair) *Beyer Peacock 0-4-0+0-4-0 Industrial Garratt *Dübs and Company 0-4-0CT (4101 'Dubsy') *Hawthorn Leslie 14in 0-4-0ST *Hunslet 0-4-0T (Cadburys No.9) *Hunslet 16in 0-6-0ST *Kitson 0-6-0PT (CIW A No.5) *Manning Wardle H Class 0-4-0ST *Manning Wardle M Class 0-6-0ST *Mersey Railway 0-6-4T *Peckett M5 Class 0-4-0ST *Peckett W5 Class 0-4-0ST *Peckett 0-4-0ST ('Flying Bufferbeam') Diesel Locomotives *Hunslet Barclay Bo-Bo (Blue John) *Ruston Hornsby 165hp 0-4-0DM *Yorkshire Engine Company 'Janus' 0-6-0DE As I have said, if there's anything you'd like to suggest, feel free to let me know. I'm really starting to enjoy industrial locomotives, and would like to help out others as an offshoot of my modelling. I'm not promising I can do everything, or even do it quickly, but I'll give it a crack as long as I can find decent plans Thanks for reading *Not necessarily industrial in the UK, but a few were shipped out here to Australia and employed by J&A Brown on their lines in the Hunter Valley. No.5 (actually Mersey No.1 'The Major') survives in the care of Transport Heritage NSW
  23. Hi all, Paul Bambrick suggested that it would be a good idea to share some of the work in progress renders I created for the Temple Mead project. about myself: Left art college in 1981, found representation in 'Garden Studios' Covent Garden working as a freelance illustrator (airbrush artist) Made the switch to digital illustration, in 1995, found some free 3D modeling software that introduce me to the world of polygons ..YXZ cordinance ..texture mapping ..HDRI lighting ..animation and long long render times! needless to say I was hooked! Currently I use 3D modelling and rendering as an aid to my illustration/visualisation work. ...check me out www.rdigital-illustration.co.uk So all that I know can be equally balanced by all that I do not know about 'Fine Scale' and 3D printing (I'm talking vertical learning curve here ) The one thing that Paul impressed upon me during the initial briefing was that "accuracy and precision are paramount", as reference I had copies of Brunels original drawings, a few books and any photo's I could find online, but no measurements! ...the challenge was on. As with most projects my first instinct was to roughly sketch some profile's from the available reference imagery: I scanned Brunels drawings and imported then into the 3D software.. this gave me some good reference for proportion. I then mapped these scans onto 2 separate large polygon objects (front view and side view) The following images are 'work in progress' renders I had sent to Paul as updates. Black Napkin aka Richard Chetland aka Digital Dick!
  24. Hi Guys, I have been working on some CAD for the modern Warflats and Warwells and also the Rail Head Treatment Trains. As these aren't available in any form at the moment, and having a bit of a soft spot for the military trains I decided that the only thing I could do was have a go on my own. The N gauge Society kits that are the ex. parkwood models are currently being updated but will not be updated to produce the modern variation. for the warwells and warflats, I have set about scaling down a 00 gauge very basic drawing and working from this and many pictures. And for the RHTT, I have used another basic drawing that was sent to me. Here are some screen grabs showing the work that I have done on them so far. There is still a fair bit of work to do on the 2 MOD wagons but hopefully they wont be too much longer. They will make use of the ATM - Gloucester 22.5 bogies. However I have only just sent off my order for them, so I will have to wait for them to arrive before I can complete these drawings. The RHTT modules are basically complete however I have had some issues with uploading them to shapeways and having them considerably shrink, which I will have to look at. They are designed to fit on to the Dapol Spine wagon. Regards Alistair
  25. Whilst I've been on holiday, I've managed to pick up one of Bachmann's charming "Pegasus" train sets. Taking it out of the box and toying with it, I feel the locomotive could certainly be the basis of a good few conversion parts. Checking into the prototype and finding that examples did work in all over the world, I quite like the idea of pushing the donor. First thoughts are alternate tenders, cabs, chimneys and bufferbeams to make a plethorea of variants, but I'll need to toy with these ideas further. One problem I have had is finding prototype pictures, although a google find did bring the Birmingham and Gloucester Railway example, so I have the first one sorted out at least. Hopefully with the next update I'll have the CAD files and plans sorted out, had a few test items made with Shapeways so I'm not entirely new to 3D printing. Johnny
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