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Found 42 results

  1. Hi Does anyone know how to find the decoder address of a Z21 Switch decoder, so I can program the outputs? Thanks
  2. Hi folks, Can anyone recommend a decoder that would be easy to fit into one of the above locos? How straightforward a job was it? I would really like to add one of these to my fleet however, as the remainder of my locos are either dcc ready or are easy to hardwire, I would like to answer the above question before I buy. Many thanks for any help. Regards, Alex.
  3. I felt I needed a rolling road to run in and test loco's. I originally started with the DCC Concepts one as I like their stuff but it's fiddly to line the rollers up for longer locos with tenders and the units come off the track very easily. So it's quite easy for the loco and tender to fall off and I have damaged a lovely Hornby T9 because of this . To be fair I normally work on locos standing up and my mark I mobile testing box shown below is quite high plus I could be less clumsy. I am may be being too harsh about the DCC Concepts rolling road, but one another niggle is that I also have their Power Base magnets under some of these locos and that means the rollers get attracted to those making matters much worse - you can see the Terrier on the right has attracted a bit of the road for exactly this reason. Also I was annoyed at having to move locos back and forth from the rolling road to the programming track as I am having problems programming some decoders with Hornby's Rail Master/Elite system (that is a tale for another day). So for the Fryer Servicing Box MkII, I used a steampunk looking rolling road I got from a show at Woking (sold by Ten Commandments), made a new box from scratch and fitted a DPDT centre off switch (the Centre off feature is essential so as not to fry the controller). This means I can simply flip that switch to go from programming to testing with the loco remaining on the rolling road. One thing to be aware of here is that the programming output is deliberately low power to minimise damage when new decoders may not have been correctly wired up, so connectivity through the rolling road needs to be good for my cunning plan to work (shout to @RAF96 for this): I like this switching idea so I might allocate a siding on my layout for programming as well by isolating it from the rest of the layout and connecting to both my DCC bus and Elite Programming output via another DPDT switch as they are about £3.50: Finally thanks to @Oldddudders for recommending the right switch.
  4. Hi All I had a spectacular failure today of my part built Bachmann 25. It is/was fitted with an ESU? V3:5 sound chip. The loco was sat on the track and not running but the motor got so hot it melted the cradle it sits in and also the plastruct underframe. The chip is also fried. I discussed it with Mark (Miller) and he has never known anything like that. The motor is damaged, but I have a spare and the loco is salvageable but not the chip. Untitled by Shane Wilton, on Flickr Untitled by Shane Wilton, on Flickr The focal point for the damage seems to centre around the suppressor, which is soldered to the motor casing at one end and the brush holder at the other. Untitled by Shane Wilton, on Flickr Any suggestions as to how this could have happened? Cheers Shane
  5. I have just started hard wiring a decoder for the first time and have encountered some problems, I hope someone can help. On this RTR loco chassis it simply isn’t possible to solder the decoder wires onto the pick ups and motor. All I have to do is join the four wires from the decoder with the two wires from the pick ups and two from the motor. The first problem is how to strip the insulation off the very fine decoder wires? My wire strippers simply cannot manage such fine wire. Indeed I’ve accidently shortened the wires trying. Having finally got some insulation off, how do you actually make a strong connection between the two wires, in effect it is a soldered but joint? Make little hooks on the end of each wire? Try and twist them round each other? The actual soldering is no problem. I slid some heat shrink onto one the wires, but on my first attempt at joining the wires, enough heat travelled down the wire and shrunk the heatshrink before I could get it over the joint (I’ve used liquid insulation tape instead. On the second attempt the wire came unsoldered off the motor, fortunatly this motor terminal is accessible, the other one is not. Cheers.
  6. Hello, Bought from ebay, Bachmann Class 25 No 25034 Aberystwyth Castle BR blue, with Domino lights, DCC fitted at the factory. This was originally a part of a DCC introductory passenger set 30-050. Does anybody know which decoder has been fitted, or who manufactured the decoder? Or, even better, does anyone have a copy of the instructions that go with it? Thanks, Mike
  7. I am contemplating trying out one of the new Tsunami Soundcar decoders (freight car noises). Does anyone know of power pickup wipers for retrofitting to a freight car, in order to establish electrical power for the decoder, when retro fitting the average box car? I am aware of the existence of replacement trucks such as this one: http://factorydirecttrains.com/ringengineeringpowerpickuptruck33wheelsmodelppt-33tho.aspx but I was wondering if there are brass wiper sets you could add to any truck? Many thanks, Koos
  8. Hi all, I have an older Hornby (TOPLINK, so I think it's the Lima toolings) Class 92 which I would like to convert to DCC. This is my first "overhaul" project so I'm planning on upgrading the lights, fitting Pantographs and using the Electra Graphics decals to convert it from 92045 Chaucer to 92032. I'm at a loss as to how many "functions" I need on the DCC decoder (I figure that I need to get this sorted first before I move on to which make of decoder to purchase!), I'd like to control the following: Front/Rear running lights Above cab "Spotlight" Motor The motor is an older "pancake" style motor however it appears to run well under DC power so I'm hoping it will work well on DCC as well! Will a 4 function decoder suffice, or will I need more than this? At the moment I'm planning on purchasing an NMRA harness for the decoder for the wiring and then plugging the appropriate decoder in, so any advice before I start that process would be very welcome! Thanks in advance, Matt
  9. New to the UK are the lococruiser LC101 8 pin basic DCC decoders so today, I fitted one for the first time. The model I chose to fit it to was a Hornby M7 tank. Although Hornby reccomend removing one of the side tank weights to locate the decoder, I placed it underneath the coal in the bunker, as the removal of such a large weight may effect the haulage capacity of the loco. This meant drilling a small hole from the bunker bottom through the running plate for the routing of the wires. I then fitted scale head and tail lamps front and rear, along with a red LED in the firebox to make use of this decoders very handy 5th function. After testing that everything was fine and working as it should the M7 was reassembled. Using the CVs to configure the lights, it was quite simple to use the F0 function to operate the white running lights so that they illuminated directionally. The red tail lamps were programmed so they could be turned on ond off at will individually using the F1 and F2 buttons. Using the F3 button, we set CV64 to 64 as advised in the instructions and achieved a pleasing firebox "flash" effect. However after some experimentation, by setting CV64 to 70, the "flash" effect became more realistic, giving an alternating bright and the dimmer effect. The only other adjustment that was needed was to change slightly the drive frequency as there was a slight "hum" from the motor. This was adjusted using CV9 . A very pleasing result for a decoder that retails for under £15 !! roy
  10. I have some DCC Concepts ADS-8FX boards on their way to me. On one of my layout boards I will have a spare pair of point drivers on a ADS-8FX and on another layout board I will be short a pair. The block of 8 point drivers looks suspiciously like four of the dual driver boards joined together. Has anyone cut a single block off of a ADS-8FX to use elsewhere? I know the ADS-2 and 2FX are also available but it seems a shame to have 2 that I already have going spare. The alternative will be to run a cable across between the two boards carrying the two point drivers which is possible but messy. Dave Pallant
  11. I recently took my Bachmann class 25, 32-400DS out of the display to give it a run. It short circuited immediately, with lights flashing and the speaker hissing. I was able to read the decoder settings and it indicated a Loksound 3.0 chip and not 3.5 to my surprise on my ESU console. I removed the chip and put a blanking plug on the loco and it worked fine in dc, then I chipped it with a Bachmann 36-554 21 pin decoder and it worked fine in dcc. Put the loksound in another Bachmann locomotive and a puff of smoke came out. Did anyone else have a similar problem? Any advice on probable cause? Any suggestions for replacement with another Loksound decoder and where to purchase? The locomotive is out of warranty, I purchased it in 2009. Thank you
  12. Hi All, This is my first post so hope i'm not breaking any rules. I have searched the web and the forums here for answers so forgive if i missed a previous post or blog on this issue. I have recently purchase the Graham Farish land ship set and a 36-558A decoder to go with it. On my DC layout the 4F class loco runs and it's had a good "running in" session followed by some play time with carriages and wagons at all speeds. However after installing the 36-558A chip and setting it up on my DCC test track i find it can't run slowly at all, it seem to suddenly start and jump to a scale speed of 10-20mph. Now i'm fairly new to DCC and still trying to get my head round the CVs and function setting of decoders but from what i understand the E-Z Command does not have the ability to change CVs so am i stuck with this? Is this a case of cheap controller and cheap chip? I'd very much like to run the train on my new DCC layout i'm building , the purpose for whihc i bought it, but if it can't achieve low speeds like this i may have to turn back to DC or sell the loco/chip. There must be something i can do without spending more money but i'm not knowledgeable enough in this area to figure it out. Regards, Ben
  13. I'm looking for recommendations for accessory decoders suitable for peco pm4 and seep point motors I have read about cobalt and it seems a good system but I dont know if its able to link to peco or seep gut instinct says it should be able to but I don't know if there will be enough power to throw the solenoid switch over. Currently point motors are linked to a cdu to reduce the power and I throw the points manually on the panel but want to be able to do some route setting All points are electrofrog
  14. Hi everyone please help I have a loksound decoder and speaker for a rebuilt battle of britain and im not sure where i have to put the speaker and decoder? The 8 pin socket is in the loco but is that where the speaker gose or dose everything have to go in the tender please would anyone be help oh yeah its a Hornby loco many thanks Mike
  15. Hi i have just instaled a ESU 52400 LokSound DCC 8 Pin Sound Decoder it run for about 20mins and then i turned everything off went for a cup of tea and when i came back Nothing No sound No movement Just Nothing and a Overload on the controller which would not clear untill i took the loco off the track. i took the decoder out of the train and put the DC blank back in to see if the loco would run on DC which it did so i then put the sound decoder into another train and it done the same Nothing just Overload Whats going on? Im so dissapointed as its took a while to save up the money to have one and i was so pleased for the first 20mins i just dont understand it as the decoder has no signs of damage there was plenty of room for the decoder allthe wires are in tacked and it wasnt hot> Please would someone help has my decoder die affter 20mins? Im not a happy chappy Mike
  16. Can someone lewt me know if the Bachmann Decoder 36-588A is compatible with Railcom. Regards, Anthony Ashley
  17. I rang Digitrains recently about upgrading decoder chips. Jeremy was very helpful with advice, and I purchased a couple of chips, which were delivered very quickly. One of them was faulty, so I phoned Jeremy, and he said they would replace it, no argy-bargy or questions. A replacement arrived 2 days after posting the defective one back. Now that is good service! They may not be as cheap as the box-shifters, but their service and experience are worth a lot. I'll use them again. John
  18. I have a DCC Concepts ADS 8FX decoder, I contacted DCC Concepts directly to ask which point solenoid/motor they would recommend, to my surprise they said the ADS 8FX cannot be used with any of their cobalt motors! they suggested I use the Gaugemaster PM10. I have since read reviews where the decoder is used with the cobalt motors? Has anyone had experience with this? I would also like to control the polarity of the frogs on the points with the solenoid/motor/decoder? I'm new to this and haven't got a clue!
  19. Does anyone know of a right angle 6 pin decoder suitable for N gauge which is rail com plus compatible. Regards, Anthony Ashley
  20. Hi everyone, Just bought two Hornby J36 locomotives. As usual, I tried to fit Gaugemaster decoders (DCC26 to one, and DCC27 to the other) however I found that they do not fit. The problem seems to be that the length of the pins causes the circuit board to sit too high to fit under the tender body. Comparing the length of the pins to those of the Hornby blanking plate, the latter are far shorter; is this also the case with the Hornby decoders? Thanks in advance for any help. Regards, Alex.
  21. Recently a friend of mine had problems with an Atlas loco. The loco would run for a few minutes then stop. After a short while it would resume running then stop again. He read that the decoder manufacturer had advised someone else, with a similar problem, to place an inductor in the motor output of the decoder. My friend has subsequently done this and claims that it has cured his problem. My thoughts were that he had resoldered a bad joint. I make a point of removing inductors and capacitors when I fit a decoder. This usually cures problems. I can see no advantage and wondered if anyone else had come across this. . Thoughts anyone Cheers Godders
  22. I have a Bachmann class 25 with factory fitted sound. I bought it at a fair and have just got around to using it. I had tested the sound when I bought it and all was okay. However, when I started running it, it would stutter and cut in/out. Now the chip appears to have died. I tried it in another loco and there is nothing...no sound, motion. Has anybody had a similar problem? Terry
  23. Hi there I have a Hornby B1 and I've been fitting a sound decoder into the tender. I made a rookie mistake and now I have lovely sound but no actual movement; looking at the wiring that came with the loco one has come adrift. I'm assuming it's attached to a capacitor, but I don't really want to make guesses and toast the decoder when I plug it in, so I was wondering if anyone knew what the other end of this wire was attached to. It goes without saying that I'm really wishing I'd taken a photo of everything before I started as opposed to after I'd made a mistake. * I've removed the metal piece that covers the speaker for the photo.
  24. Hi, I've a couple of Bachmann class 20s, and a 24 which I'll be converting to DCC in the next few days. A couple of guides I've come across when checking which way round the chips goes suggested to cut the capacitor out altogether to improve DCC running. Will this affect the locos if I ever need to remove the chip and run the DC again? Is the same recommended for the 24 (and Hornby 141)? Also I'm using Gaugemaster standard decoders for these (DCC20), they have a spare green and purple wire that come from the chip but are not connected to the harness. The instructions classify them as spare also. Should these be left in place for any reason or can I snip them off to tidy it up? Thanks in advance
  25. Topic posted twice.
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