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Found 36 results

  1. Hello All, I've wanted a model of a Pickersgill 72 for ages, and I've now got hold of a badly built one to take apart and start again with. 5 minutes in some Nitromors had the paint off, and I was able to dismantle the body simply by gently pulling it apart. Whatever glue had been used wasn't holding it very well! I now have a load of castings to start again with, and I intend to solder it back together. I'd like to try and improve on the original kit, so I will attempt to add detail where I can, including some brass overlays and perhaps a new smokebox door, as well as the usual seperately fitted pipework and handrails etc. I've ordered some detailing bits and a tender from Caley Coaches, and Jim Smellie there couldn't have been more helpful. I was inspired by Ben Alder's blog post about his Pickersgill, and using a Hornby T9 chassis, which is something I'm still thinking about, if I could get hold of one for a decent price. Here's the loco as received. Paint bubbling in the Nitromors. Useable castings, still with some cleaning up to do. Chassis, which would benefit from some detailing if it is going to be used. A rivet press and tin snips kindly lent to me by friends. I've never used a rivet press, or done much work with brass sheet, so this will be an experiment for me. The left hand running board has the vacuum pipe cast into it, which is quite nicely done, but I feel like it would be better if it was a seperate piece, so I may cut it off and make one from wire. Any thoughts or advice for this project would be great. Rick
  2. This thread is for everything that's going on on my workbench related to my North Western Railway/Sudrian Histories project, as well as featuring a few odd freelance locos. Here's an intro to Sudrian Histories: Threads feel a bit more like a story, so it makes sense to show progress here. Index: No.805 'Suddery Cathedral' http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/blog-1365/cat-628-805-suddery-cathedral No.705 'Westlin' No.704 'Duke of Gordon' http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1365/entry-19128-nwr-no704-duke-of-gordon-full-story/ No.503 'Colonel Henry Regaby' http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/blog-1365/cat-610-503-col-henry-regaby No. 301 'Thomas Allen' http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/blog-1365/cat-635-301-thomas-allen No.106 'Perseus' http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1365/entry-19127-nwr-no106-perseus-full-story/ ____________________________________________________ As with all modellers, I'm amassing a box full of spare bodies, chassis, and general bits and pieces, so every now and again, I think to myself 'What if I stuck this onto that, this here, dipped it in glue, then rolled it in the box?' These are the misadventures with my fictional freelance fleet. Hope you enjoy, it's a bit of fun, after all!
  3. Hey, all. Those of you that know me know that I love kitbashing. But I also love finding surprising items like kitbashes of freelance designs and such online when I'm looking for things. So inspired by the Bargain Hunters thread and my friend Corbs' Pugbash thread, I decided to create this thread with the intention of showcasing and discussing the cool, unusual or just plain odd second-hand creations we RMWebbers have found for sale while surfing the web. I'll start things off with the item that made me think of starting this thread in the first place: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MODIFIED-Hornby-OO-GAUGE-REPAINTED-LNER-BLACK-0-6-0-STEAM-LOCOMOTIVE-4812-T17/131633861634?hash=item1ea5fd5402:g:X0gAAOSwo0JWJ0l3 This interesting LNER themed freelance 0-6-0 goods engine from the Rails of Sheffield eBay listings.
  4. Having decided that the designing of the KLR itself might not be the most appropriate for the workbench thread on the RTR forum, I've set up this thread for the making of the actual railway and the towns and villages that it runs through. Let's begin then with the obvious - the K of the KLR itself, Kelsby. Trying to recreate a small, typical East Anglian town is going to be difficult. I already designed the station in full a few weeks ago back on the workbench: :but what I want to focus on now is the village around it. I will be waiting a while for the actual construction of things - best to have a baseboard before I actually begin putting things together, but it's good to plan ahead and know what I want. This is a thread for brainstorming, since I like getting input from you far more experienced modellers. Right, let's go Town Planning for Dummies!
  5. Hi all, so this is a slightly mad idea I had. I’m planning to build a dockside layout, and of course for that I need a crane or two. The venerable Dapol travelling dockside crane is nice enough kit, but it’s a bit small for my purposes. I want something that towers over my trains. So I decided to take another classic kit, the girder bridge, and do a good old-fashioned kit bash. The raw material. I’m a big fan of those old Gerry Anderson shows, and they used these kits all the time. I figured if it was good enough for them, it’s good enough for me. The dockside crane base is warped. I think this will cause trouble later on. I played with different configurations for the jib and ended up with basically a complete inversion of the bridge. My inspiration is the hammerhead cranes on the Clyde. The control cabin is from the original kit and a second bridge is providing the tower. I must confess here that my design philosophy can be summed up as “just stick stuff on until it looks about right. No doubt someone with knowledge of the subject could point a hundred flaws out in my model. I’m hoping to get more work done later today.
  6. Here are some pictures of a spontaneous modelling decision i took recently. I am sure i have seen this done here and before i knew it i was tearing off the door and bashing some new ones. The doors have a huge gap at the top and oversized hinges to enable an opening action. The roof is also too thick...oh and the decals don't look right to me. Due to slightly heavy handedness the kit doors were broken to new ones fashioned from plastikard. .3mm wire and fuse wire were used to create the locking mechanism. A new roof was made from .3mm plastikard with thin strips cut from the same material for the rainstrips. I also dabbled in a bit of Martin Welch inspired roof degradation. Happy but haven't quite got the great man's finesse! Decals and further weathering to follow. Cheers for now.
  7. Hi folks, I thought I would start a blog over here as opposed to the usual blog area. I enjoy kit building and bashing, weathering and general model making. I have a small layout, Templefield which is based around 1970 in West London Area on western metals. Having posted in the wrong forum, i have moved a blog about an LMS brake van over to modifying RTR. Here I will detail some actual kits i have built!!
  8. Seems fitting to make my New Years Resolution this year to be more proactive here on RMweb so I've started a thread on my workbench. So, on the eve of January the first 2020, I present the opening of this thread with... you guessed it, what's on the bench! So, as can be seen below I have five wagons on my bench tonight, these being a BDA bolster, MHA, ZCV, JZA and Porpoise. The bolster is undergoing the butchers knife for conversion into an under-sized Salmon flat before being given panel supports and transformed into an Osprey. With Cambrian's Salmons becoming rarer by the day and not having the time nor patience and money to hunt down and purchase the last one from half a dozen stockists, it was much easier to buy the next closest model. The ASF bogies for the salmons, another kit by Cambrian, I was lucky to get hold of six pairs from three different retailers. It was then that I opted for the butchery approach. The finished models look the part and its hardly noticed that they are 20mm or so short. The Coalfish and Clam are new in as of a New Years Eve delivery, weathered and rusted throughout the first afternoon of the year (though only one side of the ZCV has been done so far). Another 6 MHA's to weather before deciding whether I fancy a couple more. Now for the special cases and YouTube celebrities, the JZA and Porpoise. Porpoise has been on the bench for four months at the time of writing and is 90% of the way there. All I will say is that it looks like a beauty but in actual fact it is the devil. I will write up another post in the near future going into more depth about the build, but I think I've lost count of how many problems I've created just to make it accurate. For starters just to make the chutes I balls-d up the coupling bar swivel limits. All fun and games lol. Then the JZA, that's the simpler of the two with custom manufactured steel mesh and plasticard being the main additions to the ready to run model. For both units I used ready to run models as bases, though its safe to say ill never attempt it all again upon final completion of the whole RDT set. Updates ill be either weekly or when something worth sharing gets done, Jordan
  9. Firstly, an unfortunate close-up of the soldier from last week; To finish, I only need some white glue. The scenery-specific PVA I had went off, so I had to toss it. I just want to add some groundwork to his base. Something simple, like sand. I pulled out a long-running project; 1/24 Revell Datsun 510. I took a Dremel to the fender flares molded on the body, as the wheels I want to use would not clear. Wasn't the neatest job, but I will be building out replacement flares with putty and styrene. Intentional mis-mounting here. I'm aware the interior panels are swapped. I mean this to look like some race car, so I figured stripped or plain side panels made sense. Once I source more #15's, I will scribe the door lines on the backs. I think the seat is Fujimi; they seemed to always have a number of spares in their kits. The centerpiece, and reason why this project is long-running. Resin Nissan SR20DET from eBay. This casting was meant for mounting in a curbside kit, so there was no provision for the lower third of the engine. I've tried to improvise with the oil pan from the kit engine. I've since had the fitting shown here removed. I need to shim it up a bit. Silly turbo exhaust screws everything up. Finally, slow progress on another started project; Cockpit-fuselage for the Airfix 1/72 Blohm + Voss BV 141. Why do I say it like that? Go look it up. I can't satisfactorily explain the thing. Have fun!
  10. Introduction 2195 Cwm Mawr was built for the Burry Port & Gwendraeth Valley Railway as their No.5 in April 1905. Taken over by the GWR in 1922, No.5 was sent to Swindon for rebuilding, emerging in 1926. She spent most of her service life at Weymouth. Excellent drawings and a potted history are found in Ref.4. Back in 2013, I started to assemble a model of 2195, using a Hornby Toby chassis, but changed direction to make GWR 1331. (Ref 1.) This exercise did produce a brass cab for 2195. A similar damaged chassis was set aside in the scrapbox. Further checking revealed that the Toby chassis is too tall for 2195, so a search began for a suitable alternative. In Nov 2018, a group of pre-loved US outline H0 chassis was purchased, among which was one designed for a 4-6-4, with 21mm wheels , but with a suitable wheelbase. A couple of months later, the cylinder assembly for the current Hornby Peckett 0-4-0ST became available as a spare, so one was ordered from Peter’s Spares. My spares box contained a roughly repainted second-hand Smokey Joe model, so all of the main components were now to hand. A newly acquired 3D printer gave me the potential to make some small components that are now no longer freely available. Construction The chassis was stripped: It was then cut down from 4-6-4 to 0-6-0 and set up for the tank engine. I had no 14mm drivers in stock, but did have some Romford 15mm wheels, so proceeded with these. My scrapbox contained suitable brass bearings, which were opened up from 3mm to 1/8” i.d. to facilitate fitting to the Romford axles. Crankpins were fitted to the wheels, which were then test fitted to the chassis New coupling rods were made from stainless steel strip. The Hornby cylinder assembly was too narrow to fit the chassis, so both the stretcher between the cylinders and the slidebar support were cut and then rejoined with extension pieces of brass, superglued into position. The crossheads, as received, had minimal rotational movement on the connecting rods, so each was carefully eased by scraping off small pieces of metal from the little ends of the connecting rods, where they fouled the crossheads. The crossheads were fitted to the slidebars before gluing the slidebar supports into position. The chassis frames were filed back as required to fit the full cylinder assembly to the chassis so that the footplate fitted easily over the top The Smokey Joe model was stripped down. The motorized chassis was stored for a future project. The footplate was modified until it could fit over the chassis and so that the cab could be fitted. It looked too bare, so a new one was made from 1/16” thick brass sheet, to which was soldered extra brass and copper sections to fill the gap below the Hornby saddle tank, as well as the pre-existing cab. Loosely placed on the chassis it looked like this: With the saddle tank/smokebox sitting on it, it started to look like a loco at last: The gearbox was assembled and fitted to the motor. This unit was then installed in the chassis. The chassis was then tested for free running and adjusted where necessary. This motor/gearbox combination fitted well, very low in the model, leaving room for ballast weights to be fitted later, if needed. Pickups, wire and a new copper-clad baseplate were fabricated and fitted. The mechanism was tested and adjusted until everything ran smoothly. Buffers and scale couplings were fitted. The footplate was covered with paper to cover the gaps left to provide clearance for the wheels. Injectors and a toolbox were designed, 3D printed and then fitted. The smokebox/saddle tank assembly from “Smokey Joe” was then trimmed and glued in place. Front sandboxes were then 3D printed and fitted. The replacement chimney, dome and safety valve were turned from brass and glued into position. A smokebox door dart was made from a handrail knob and wire and then fixed in place. Handrails and their knobs were then fitted. Lamp brackets, made from office staples, added a lot of character. The model was then painted with Humbrol enamels and acrylic paints. HMRS Pressfix numbers were mounted on the front buffer beam. Number- and name-plates were printed onto photographic paper and attached. The backhead from “Smokey Joe” was modified, painted and then mounted in the cab. Once the transfers and plates had settled, the model was varnished with Humbrol satin clear. The model was completed with a Dapol crew and “coal” in the bunker. Reflections This was not another “cheap and cheerful” project, because much material was bought in especially for this model. Its total cost has approached A$200. However, it is unique and has been a very satisfying exercise, allowing me to learn and practise new skills on my 3D printer. I guess I could have imported and assembled the Agenoria model, but its price (GBP210 – about A$386) was a bit too much for me. I’m impressed with the High Level gearbox – the first I have used. It went together easily and precisely. In combination with the Mashima motor, it runs very smoothly and silently. It is a suitable substitute for the NWSL products I have been using recently and which have ceased production. With this project, I have acquired a very smooth shunter, capable of very slow but powerful operation. Very satisfying! Parts List · Japanese brass American outline chassis (2nd-hand) · Footplate & saddle tank from Hornby Smokey Joe (R782) · Cylinders etc from Hornby Peckett 0-4-0ST (X7164) · 15mm dia Romford driving wheels, axles and crankpins · Sprung brass buffers (source unknown) · Scale couplings (source unknown) · Tension-lock couplings · Mashima 1015 motor · High Level Slimliner compact gearbox (54:1) · Misc brass sheet · Brass rod · BA screws & nuts · 0.4mm dia phos. bronze wire · Handrail knobs · Stainless steel strip (for coupling rods) References & Further Reading 1. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/72460-gwr-1331-ex-whitland-cardigan-0-6-0st-project/ 2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BP%26GV_4_Kidwelly_and_5_Cwm_Mawr 3. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67786-gwr-1376-ex-bristol-exeter-0-6-0t-project/ 4. Railway Modeller, May 1989 5. RCTS “The Locomotives of the Great Western Railway – Part 10 – Absorbed Engines 1922-1947 (RCTS, 1966) 6. J.H.Russell: “A Pictorial Record of Great Western Absorbed Engines” (OPC, 1978) 7. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/147303-3d-freelance-manning-wardle-0-6-0t/
  11. A couple of months ago, I had what then seemed like a clever idea. I would knock together a Bachman-Farish Gronk with a pannier body. I was inspired by a picture of the Buffalo in a book I had bought second-hand. I hadn't known any outside-framed tanks received pannier tanks, much less lasted until the timeframe I nominally collect. Excellent, I thought. I figured this would be a simple bash. Nope. First, my inspiration https://www.philt.org.uk/Misc/Archive-Photos/i-ZPJSZ5t/ So, what I started with. The gronk was had decently cheap from Hatton's. I chafe at the cost of these 08's. So many N and OO9 kits call for them as a donor, with good reason. Finding one for less than $100 online is uncommon. Graham-Farish N isn't exactly common at local shows, either. The 57XX body was from Hatton's, as well. I ordered it with a host of Dapol Easi-shunt kit, to be featured at a later date. It took me quite a bit of fiddling to get the footplate off of the gronk, after I found the plate on the 57XX integral with the casting. After much fiddling, I ended up with below; Yeah, my idea wasn't as straightforward as I thought it would be. The 08's motor and gearbox are significantly tall. You can see just how tall below; I also managed to mangle one side of the brake gear, which I had planned on reusing. A shame, as it seemed perfectly reasonable to my ignorant local audience. I'll have to see about a shorter motor and mount. Are their other Farish drivetrains that might drop in clean? I hope so, or if there is a another, cheaper option. The Gronk frame is much too obviously wrong, as well. I may try cutting frames from styrene instead. So much for an easy project.
  12. These wagons, designated Coil S, were converted from pre-nationalisation and early BR built wooden-bodied Highs some time in the very late '60s or early '70s - I'm not sure precisely when - and are the kind of prototype I like: relatively obscure, but interesting conversions of 'ordinary' wagons that might be seen in pairs or threes without shouting 'oddity', or, moreover, stand much of a chance of turning up in kit form. They also lend themselves to batch production, though the 'batch', in this instance includes another three 'traditional wagons' of different types (a shock open, a fruit van and a china clay wagon, more of which anon), of different types because it's simply more time efficient to do them in that way. Intial assembly, brakegear, solebar detailing, capping irons, etc. are more easily done on four wagons at one go as individually and take only a little more time: rather than wait for the solvent to go off, you can do the same job to another two wagons and have more to show per modelling session. A couple of Parkside underframes, ABS buffers and brakegear with Masokits levers and vees make for a reasonably conventional starting point, but they present some interesting challenges to model as the pictures on Paul Bartlett's site* should demonstrate. The nature of these conversions means that there are a host of small detail differences which makes them fun to do, whilst retaining the advantages of batch production. The first is based on an LNER open: The second is based on this ex-SR example: http://paulbartlett....c3d7d#h337c3d7d The side raves will be knocked up from brass (the real things were steel section) which will go some way towards reinforcing the ends as will a load: a few metres of soft iron wire should do it... Adam *without which this sort of thing would not be possible. Thanks again Paul.
  13. The [almost] completion of a project which I started on the old forum and which has been continued over here, but now has a coat of paint. Obviously, it's a bit clean at the moment and the (prototypical) livery is somewhat garish but some work-in-progress shots are probably overdue. The weathering has commenced but will stop short of the condition the prototype ended up in: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/6454506387/in/set-72157628278328931/lightbox/ You'd never know it was green under that would you? Adam Source: Take one Kitmaster Austerity...
  14. A slightly longer term project that has made some progress in the last week is a partially (well, mostly) scratchbuilt Shochood B. These seem mainly to have been used in conjunction with steel products (they were all initially branded 'Empty to' for Port Talbot or Newport (Mon) from new), and later many found their way into engineers service under the codename 'Dace'. It's a wagon type I've always rather liked, and since Bartlett et al contains the drawings... Some time ago, when I was building a couple of Parkside 21T hoppers - one on a Bradwell etched chassis - I found myself with a suitable underframe which has been just that for about 18 months. In hindsight, the Parkside underframe for their fitted Grampus would be a better starting point, but there you go, they'll probably produce their own now... Most of the brake gubbins fitted (barring shoes and linkages since these are too easily damaged) along with couplings, buffers and so on, but only at the weekend did I start on the body. 40 thou' sides and floor allied to Parkside ends: the rest of the Parkside open will be converted to an SR pattern Shock with wooden ends at some later date. To this was added 15 thou' overlays with all the many rivets embossed by hand. I haven't bothered with the detail at the top of the sides since this will be hidden by the hood (which was a semi-permanent fixture on these wagons). This is just as well since the interiors of the prototype wre unusual as shown here, or here. I'll leave all that to those who want to model one after the engineers got their hands on 'em! More, once progress is made. Adam
  15. In other news, another long standing project nears completion. Those of you who remember issues 40 and 41 of MRJ (Hursley and Winchester Chesil), might not recall the real inspiration to my ten year old self, Geoff Kent's two-parter on scratchbuilding commercial vehicles. This AEC mk V 8 wheeler based around a Road Transport Images cab and wheels (scratchbuilt chassis and flatbed) will be finished in the bright red of BRS and lettered for its Cardiff depot, reflecting the large number of such vehicles employed on steel haulage. Not sure about the tint on the photo, might have to re-take that... For now, it joins the paint queue awaiting slightly warmer weather. Adam
  16. AlfaZagato

    Crossbone

    First off, I finished building the exchange gift for my buddy. We do an exchange every year; he'll pick up a year's subscription for Xbox Live for me, and I'll pick up a Gundam kit and build it for him. Effort is made to match gift values between the two of us. Value match normally favors me, as many of these Gundam kits are pricey. Presenting the 1/100 Master Grade Tallgeese II Special Coating; You can just make out some of the special coating in the pic. All the white had a thick gloss coat applied from the factory, and everything else was molded with some flake. I think the flake worked better than the gloss, but very flashy all the same. The kitbash for an upcoming contest is almost complete. Paint is down. I just need to add a wash. Monolithic yellow is...garish, to say the least. I decided to play a little with some masking on the 'crossbones.' Worked alright. The lower one visible in the last pick came out better than I expected. I tried replicating a technique I had seen in a magazine once. I couldn't get both blades to fit in the handle. I think I bulled it pretty cleanly, though.
  17. I finished the model for my local Gundam club's contest. At least, I'm calling it done. More work was had on the centaur. I'm going to plan and finish the 'human' torso before I go farther with the 'horse.' The paint guide I found for a palomino is about 90% pastels, so I want to minimize handling before clear. I also made treacle tart. Went over well. Here's to the contest.
  18. AlfaZagato

    Contesting

    Most of the week was working on a new project. I have decided to enter a new contest. The group I am with, Gunpla Builders of Chicago, is doing a coopted contest with a regional group. The theme for the build is Gundam Build Fighters. That theme was described as just custom work. So, I'm going a little wild. This is what I have so far; No paint as of yet. These Gundam kits come molded in color, and are normally snap-fit. This build uses parts from Gundam Vidal, a LaGowe, and a Tiren ground type. I was intending to have a top-heavy look, but I appear to have underestimated the size of the LaGowe chest. I may try bulking it out a bit. I plan on picking up some Milliput tomorrow. I think a hump on the back, using a kit part as a former for some Miliput. There are also meant to be intake grilles on the chest. I may use them as intended, or I may try with a different idea. I have also been repairing my centaur for Dungeons and Dragons. I replaced the white metal axe haft, fitted originally with butt-joints, with a rod-and-tube haft. The rod, brass, runs the entire length of the tube, copper, through the hand and into the axehead. I also used some rod to pin his top to his bottom. Torso to neck, as it were. Filling and another coat of primer will come next here. I want to figure out more on the kitbash, first.
  19. AlfaZagato

    Done

    Sorry I've been quiet. Just haven't taken time to write here. Firstly, I finished the two cars I've been dragging out. The Volkswagen; Paint did not come out perfect, but still. This has been sitting half-built in my backlog for over a decade now. Lack-luster paint was less important than finishing the build. Next, the Alpine-Renault; Paint is markedly better, but the decals tweaked on me. I've had bad luck repeatedly with Tamiya waterslides. I'll still use them, though. I don't really want to spend more money on these kits. Number three here is kind of a bonus; The car in the back is a Tamiya Mini Cooper I built a number of years ago. I saw how the Lego one was marked, and I just had to grab it. I'll let you all guess. You might remember I entered a Gundam build contest, to build a Leo. Well, this; ...won me second place! Not the picture, mind you. This Leo looks better in person. I lost to this; I'm OK with that. He started with the same kit I did. Where I only cribbed weapons and a gimmick piece from other kits, he kitbashed his Leo with one of the trashy Tallgeese kits from the 90's. I don't know if you in England had access to those kits, but don't feel like you missed out on much. The winner did one hell of a job making Vesuvio from blight. Kudos to him. The contest was last Sunday, but I finished the two cars and the Lego two weeks ago at least. I haven't really done much else since. Rain and a return of the chill shut down the paint shop. We'll see how things go.
  20. Plastic wagons can be remarkably durable beasts and only rarely can one be said to be beyond repair. My first attempt at one, an original Parkside Grampus, was not an ideal choice, in part because of the nature of the prototype with its intricate baskets to hold the removable end planks when not required on the wagon and the design of the ends in three, prototypical bits located on poorly mould pins and holes. This may be why the body still isn't entirely square. Not entirely Parkside's fault, it was rather challenging 14 and more years ago and the chaps in Kirkcaldy have, in fairness, been back and produced a rather better kit for the Grampus. I've built one of those as well. When originally built, in OO, with brass Romford wheels and with only minor extra detailing; replacement buffers (Kenline I think), three-link couplings and an attempt to represent all those door springs I was relatively pleased with it. I've had another couple of goes at it since, replacing the tiebar between the W irons with scrap etch when the plastic ones went 'ping' and replacing the buffers with better (ABS) castings. A bit later, I had another go at the weathering, changed the wheels for 8-spoked, EM examples (some prototypes really did have 10 spoke wheels), replaced the long-link brake gear with some leftover parts suitably shortened from a more modern Parkside Tube and tweaked the axleboxes to better resemble some real ones. At the same time, I loaded the thing with ballast. Moving on several years, I like to think that my standards have risen further. Having assembled quite a rake of flat-bottomed engineers types, thanks to Roger Chivers and Parkside, with a handful of Medfits thrown into the mix, this poor old Grampus was starting to stand out and the time has come for its third, and hopefully last, rebuild. This is very much a scrapbox sort of operation using odds and ends from other projects so hasn’t actually cost any money, merely a little bit of time. It never occurred to me to take a 'before' shot so this will have to do: Having popped the wheels out, the whole wagon was popped in jam jar of water and the ballast soaked, cajoled and, eventually, dug out with a screwdriver, taking the plasticard load base – and one of the sides – with it. This made adding a planked floor (hand-scribed 20 thou’ plastic – very hairshirt finescale...) rather easier so no harm done, the side was tacked back on straight afterwards. The brake levers and vees went as well and replacements came from a combination of bits from Dave Bradwell and Masokits who do a nice GW pattern ratchet lever guide. Must do the safety loops too. I realised at the same time that I'd placed the centremost door springs in the wrong place. Two I managed to save, the other two pinged off, I know not where. Someone, somewhere, must have done an etched underfloor basket for these but I've never seen one. Does anybody know better? The door securing chains are stripped from multi-strand wire twisted round a 1mm drill. these were ten secured with a drop of cyano' and a small 'wedge' of 10 thou' to hold the in place. The wedges were trimmed off a scalpel later. here's the 'after' shot: With the aid of Paul Bartlett's photo's, I've finally got the ends more or less correct. How much easier would it have been to have replaced these bits in the first place? Important lesson: replacing duff components is almost invariably quicker and less stressful than modifying them! The last little job was to replace the kick-steps on the left-hand corners. The modern Parkside kit has some neat mouldings in tough plastic. Mine were fettled up from some bits of scrap etch and 0.75mm brass angle, carefully fretted with a piercing saw. If faced with something similar, my advice is to talk to the chaps at Kirkcaldy about spares; the current version has some nice moulded ones. It's now ready for a touch up and a return to traffic. Was it worth it? Adam
  21. Loathe as I am to use a TOPS designation for a wagon, this is one of the relatively few occasions where the wagon type is fairly obvious! While the basic kit is pretty good, accurate and well engineered, also including many of the things plastic wagons sometimes lack, there are a few things which can be improved or extra detail to be added. The usual things like grab handles on the end door are easy enough though the sides and ensds are a bit thick, thinning them down a bit is straightforward. The fun starts, as is so often the case, is the underframe. What you usually get with any form of 8 shoe AVB is a tumbler on the centre line with linkages heading towards the gloom under the wheels where as pragmatist I can ignore it. This: http://www.gallery68...et/p475948.html shows that it's a bit more complicated. The kit does the 1/120 which had self-adjusting brake gear. The linkage on the solebar is there of course but photos show something going on between the solebars, but not very clearly. This shot from Paul Bartlett's collection is one of the best I've found, showing a lever and a rod leading from the cross shaft heading towards some sort of bracket mounted on the solebar, with *something* behind it. This shot of a Coil B shows the direction it goes in (more or less...): http://www.gallery68.../p47042723.html Not being quite sure how it worked, I went for something representational. It's just as difficult to photgraph as the real thing but I hope this helps fellow detail fetishists... Maybe a sketch [and perhaps a better photo] later... Adam
  22. I'm a volunteer on the Severn Valley ( you may have guessed by the name ) and I'm hoping to recreate the coach I've been working on for the past year. It's ex LNER pigeon van no 70759 which is being converted to a brake 3rd with 4 compartments (see drawing below). I don't have the money ( or courage/recklessness) to tackle it by butchering a pair of super detail Hornby teaks and have considered using the old Ian kirk kits available via cooper craft. The two kits I thought most suitable for this were 8842 LNER 61'6" Corridor Full Brake and 8850 LNER 61' 6" Side Corridor Composite. I thought it would be best to buy the 8850 kit then buy the sides to the 8842 kit that are available as spares on the website. Then I would make the composite kit as per instructions but the only difference being the altered sides with the halves of the full brake sides. The whole thing would cost a mere £19 as I already have wheels paint etc. But having said that has anyone got a better solution or spotted a silly mistake I've made? (edited 10/7/14 to remove dead link and add photo in tis place)
  23. The joy of cobbling together 'traditional' wagons is that there are so many similar processes which, once you've worked out how to do them come quite quickly. As I've noted before, having mundane bits in stock means that you can progress quickly while the mood takes you. Making one set of couplings, for example, can be a hassle. Making 6 sets at one go only really takes half as long again as making 2 pairs, so why not make an evening of it? So, along with the Coil carriers mentioned earlier, I've been playing with another three or four at the same time. It only really gets dull when you're doing multiples of the same wagon so having done 30 or so empty minerals, I'm taking a break for a short while. This post is by way of a parade of work in progress. First up, this LMS-designed, BR-built fruit van (Parkside PC42): I've done one of these before and clearly forgot about it so this is a duplicate. There was another batch with LNER brakegear as well so that's a possibility for a later date. Not that this is a bad thing, especially if you own plastic moulding equipment in Kirkcaldy. If you look carefully, you may observe modelling in progress. Another Kirkcaldy product is this Grampus, from the mark 1 Parkside kit (not an ideal choice: the three part ends were a complete swine and those baskets under the floor still can't be had in brass) and this was, in fact, my first ever plastic kit. If it were human, it would just have collected its GCSE results. These pictures record progress through its third - yes, you read that right, third - rebuild. It started out in OO, was re-gauged with spoked wheels to EM and has since had some 3-hole discs, a second set of replacement buffers and new brakegear. This time round, it's getting a new set of brake levers (Dave Bradwell with Masokits GW pattern ratchet lever guides) a new set of couplings and some of the detail I unaccountably missed the last two times. You can spot these very easily, they're unpainted... From a different generation entirely, this GWR china clay wagon (PC82 - as built and how they looked when the NCB had finished with them) but still benefiting from some additional detailing including some better looking axleboxes and springs. Goes together square on the first time of asking though. The body of the Grampus still isn't. And finally, more mucking about with bits of plastic and brass, an SR-designed shock high. There's modelling in progress here too. All that strapping, corner plates next. For the real thing, as ever, Paul Bartlett comes up with the pic's. Adam
  24. Leaping ahead with the Shochood, all the detailing, both of the body and chassis is now complete, though as the first photo shows, I've kept the detail to where you can see it. Planning ahead is important here, as is keeping the reference books open on the right page. My copy of Bartlett et al now seems to fall open at about thihis point! The perils of not paying attention will create more work later. This is why the second MDV I built has a replacement plastic end; I assembled the body the wrong way round and only noticed when I'd completed it. Oops. The sheet rails which the hood will go over have been modelled as a seperate, though permanently fixed sub asselby. This effectively makes the wagon body a box with a fancy lid on top. The relative position of the rails is retained by a triangle of 40 thou' which should help keep everything solid. Note that the sheet rails are handed (and of 0.9mm wire - the real things seem quite chunky). Here are (some of) the bits: And here is the completed assembly. The rails rest in slots and are supported with more plastic from below. They were first tacked in position with cyano' and then properly anchored with epoxy. Now to work out what material to use for the hood... Adam Edit - Third picture added.
  25. Hopefully, this photo should show the arrangement of the representation of the brake gubbins slightly more clearly. A bit untidy perhaps, and I'd like to say that the next one will be better. The next one however will be the earlier 1/119 variant which had a slightly more conventional twin-cylinder (one big, one small), arrangement with a changeover lever. A bit like this one: http://80srail.zenfo...a98d2#h1db78de6 Just don't ask when... Adam
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