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Found 80 results

  1. Let’s start at the very beginning, it’s a very good place to start. A long time back, I was taking the Meccano Magazine. (An aside here for younger folk, this was a monthly publication which ran from 1916 - 1981. Centred around Meccano, Hornby 0, and Hornby Dublo products, there was a wide range of articles on engineering and transport interest, with current transport news, and does make a fascinating read looking back. Fortunately every copy can be found on line here: http://meccano.magazines.free.fr/covers.htm, and is highly recommended for reading at slack moments). Anyway, they did a book review of relevant new publications, and I saw one for “Four Main Lines” by C. Hamilton Ellis, which was an account of the flagship artery for each of the Big Four companies, really to commemorate the end of the companies into British Railways two years earlier in 1948. Describing the history, development, and trains for each of them. I saved up enough pocket money to buy it, and was very taken with the authors style and presentation, so looked round for more of his works. Quite a few appeared in that decade, I particularly liked individual histories, which included locomotive development, for the LSWR, the LBSCR, the Midland, and the North British, and “Railway carriages of the British Isles 1830 - 1914” is worth a mention too. The thing that really turned me on looking at them, as a boy hopeful to have a model railway, was the potential of “pregroup” subjects for models. Trains were compact, simple, attractive to look at, and would fit far better in any limited space. In 1956 his “Picture History of Railways” came out, part of a series by Hultons publishers on various topics, not only covering the British lines, but a broad look across the world. Up to now his books had been standard text form with a few inserts for illustrations, but this one a form much more commonplace today, two or three illustrations per page, with a full paragraph of descriptive text for each picture. Great stuff, very blasé about the British pictures, which were good, but then you get to the page for early France, oh me, oh my, look at those. Two samples for now, first off from the collection of Dr Tice Budden, best known for ancient pregroup Britain photos, but the good Doctor also set up his tripod along the main line east out of Paris, here capturing an express made up of thirteen four wheel coaches, headed by a Crampton 4-2-0 piloting it’s successor, a 2-4-0 copying the Crampton design but with an extra pair of drivers slipped in. The second illustration was a CHE painting, which he did very well to give a fully detailed scene, but funnily enough I’ve only seen B&W reproductions, never a colour rendering. Its an express on the Paris- Orleans Railway, which went much further than it says on the tin,, one of their standard 2-4-2s on a mixed bag of four wheelers. The thing about the loco is the boiler, firebox, dome, sandbox, and cylinders are all clad in polished brass. Now drivers liked a bit of bare metal to polish on an engine, but imagine being stuck with all that lot? Looking at those pictures, I began to realise that somewhere beyond Dover, more lines began, and back in time they had some highly interesting and modellable trains running on them.
  2. O.K., Firstly thanks to all who have found my new thread here and are following it. I have said many times, Planning is the key, THEN WHY DON'T I DO IT? In case your wondering Pen Y Bont will continue, the reason for the new thread is because I didn't feel that I could run the intended Locos on Pen, and have satisfactory photos etc. Pen will continue as a Western Region / North Wales BLT, with Pannier and Prairies joined by the Jinty from time to time. Note = Pen Y Bont now Sold. So, onwards and upwards. So, Seven Mills, Sidings, what's it all about? Well I like Depots, but with a restricted area of just 12ft x 2ft, I felt a Shed, might be a little overpowering, so basically it's a Yard, or Sidings a few hundred yards from the main line and Sheds, somewhere to hold or store a Loco, and / or some Wagons, and carry out some interesting movements and Shunting. The Track Plan below shows a Yard in front of the Fiddle Yard, but if I find that becomes to difficult to access the Fiddle Yard, it may not be inserted. Here is the PROVISIONAL Plan, and until the boards are built next week, and some track thrown down, THE FINAL PLAN And it did change, see page 4. BUT Changed again later. MANY TIMES And from 1st Jan 2019, Page 61, Seven Mills will revert back to a Yard / Exchange Sidings for MOD Traffic set in the 80's Blue Period.
  3. Ever the one for changing my mind I was sorting out the perennial messy state of the workshop and I noted that I had a stash of 18" - 24" wide boards. I had been looking at KESR based locations and will probably build Bodiam. A 'penny dropping' moment said why not somewhere on the Hayling Island Line, classic Terrier territory. On a couple of lengths of CLS timber sitting on 2 trestles provided a stand for the various boards. Enough waffle, here is the first iteration: Picture 1 - From the stops the lines from left to right are: Bay Platform, Platform Line, Run Round / Goods Line and Goods Siding. Picture 2 - Drivers Eye View - Peco Points Picture 3 - The line on the left needs a trap point. Picture 4 - View from the stops of the Bay Platform. Picture 5 - Close up of the station throat. I have lost a couple of sidings, but kept the bay platform as it was a big feature of the station. 976 14-07 1183 15-07 1537 23-07 2104 13-08 2565 25-08 2710 27-08 2829 28-08 3164 30-08 3386 31-08 3887 19-09 4290 23-09 4508 25-09 4809 28-09 5408 14-10 5686 16-10 6328 20-10 6745 22-10 7305 03-11-2018 8055 10-11-2018 8521 24-11-2018 18945 04-04-2020 20814 01-07-2020 22164 15-7-2020. 23658 31072020
  4. I'm looking for some pointers on where I should be spending my cash. I have used 3D printing in various forms in industry for years and in carried on with subcontracting the work to the likes of shapeways. This is becoming increasingly experience as they keep going up in price. So I think that it's time I got myself a toy to play with. I have looked at a fair number of reviews and most give good reviews the small problem with these printers is the production size. They are great for 4mm and smaller but I'm working in 7mm so they can just about do a small wagon. I would be looking at trying to print things about 8inches by 6inches by 6inched. Marc
  5. Thought I would start an thread on here to share my foray into O gauge. Had a mixed results time in N last layout and ended up selling a under construction project. Seeing some of the O gauge releases spurred me on to have a go so am seeing where it leads. Couple of baseboards are in my possession giving me approx 6 ft of space for now so this will be a limited space layout for now. Track is on order as still pondering a name. Stock so far is a Heljan 37/4 being worked on to produce 37426. A Dapol 08 as 08916 and some wagons in the form of a skytrex TTA. Heljan OAA and a Dapol HAA. Era 1990ish as my usual favourite with a potential mix of liveries and will see where this takes me. John
  6. Hi all, I thought it was about time I had a topic of my own as some elements are not catered for in this section. To start off with here are some photos of the Modelu finials being fitted to a 7mm scale signal Alan Buttler of Modelu has also done these finials in both 4mm scale and now 2mm scale, after suggesting that he do so for my current project. This being 2mm scale square post bracket signals, with working lights and operation to be by servo motor controlled by a Megapoints servo controller. You can of course imagine my relief at not having to make these myself! Now square post signals in 2mm scale with working lights are tricky enough but bracket signals.... The problem being that the posts have to be made by using suitably shaped brass L sections. It would be so much easier if an etched brass version could be made available, perhaps it's something I should do, I don't know. Anyway the problem lies with the bracket post in putting the led wires in between the 2 halves then soldering them together and then soldering the post to the bracket. The parts are not exactly big. I think I may have found the solution in securing the wires to one half of the subsiduary post with high temperature (350C) silicone glue, hopefully for long enough whilst I complete the soldering. Time will tell and I'll report back tomorrow as to whether or not it worked. In the meantime here is a photo of the 2mm scale finials for round post GWR signals, the square post ones should be with me shortly.
  7. Hello all. Once upon a time, just over 7 years ago (where does time go!), I entered the RM Web diorama challenge in 2011 with my entry Swindelton stabling point as documented in the entry summary in my signature, or the original topic here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38133-swindelton-sp-o-gauge-in-a-small-space/ The deadline of the challenge ensured I started and entered something to a reasonable standard. I had plans to further enhance my diorama but, as I see in so many posts, work and life seemed to get in the way. Swindelton stabling point was eventually stored away in our small two bedroom house, occupied by a family of four and a fat cat. The small house meant motivation to model something was lacking and with other expenditures such as racing RC cars and mountain biking, model trains did not get a look in. Fast forward to 2016 and we moved to a new house with four bedrooms and a double garage. Whilst I would have liked to have utilised some of the space for building something, one bedroom was allocated as an office, and other priorities and expenditures always got in the way, not least trying to reduce the amount of stuff we had accumulated and stored in the garage! With mixed opinions I watched the Great Model Railway Challenge and it seems to have influenced me- I felt guilty that Swindelton had been moth balled and I got it out of the garage and dusted it off. A google search found my original RM entry and the realisation 7 years had passed by. A moment of madness has resulted in an ex works visitor to Swindelton and since then ideas have started to develop, with the intention of modelling something again. That’s all for now but further information and ideas to follow……… just got to resist spending more money before Christmas on rolling stock!
  8. Please see my Pinterest board of images inspiring my planned 7mm diorama of the MDHB, Liverpool Overhead Railway and Riverside Branch lines at East Princes Half Tide Dock, Liverpool just before the Overhead Railway closed in 1956. Planning is in the early stages. Research is the easy bit! Currently I am seeking any plans of the MDHB engine shed shown in the photo. https://uk.pinterest.com/stephenwolstenh/inspiration-for-atlantic-dock-7mm-scale-diorama-of/
  9. For a few months now I have been contemplating about moving my railway page to the correct heading but never got around to it and now I have decided it was time. I will repeat the last month or so and continue adding anything to this page rather than the old one. The old pages are under the following heading Jim
  10. Hi All, Does anyone know what has happened to Premier Components? On June 5th I ordered a chassis kit for a GWR 2251 engine but am still waiting. The last time I spoke to Bill he told me he was making the chassis for me, but I have heard nothing, and I can't get through on the phone or open the web site. Any news would be great. Best wishes, Paul
  11. 2 Years ago I sold my 4mm shunting layout Peafore Yard having had some good years of fun operating it at various shows. The trackplan was great fun to operate but I am somebody who enjoys building layouts rather than operating them so sold the layout to allow me to build my current 4mm project Parsons Vale Carriage sidings (PVCS). As PCVS is nearly complete, my thoughts are turning to the next project, the plan being to build the next layout while still exhibiting the previous one. Over the last few years my eye sight has deteriorated, partly due to age but also due to a minor underlying issue affecting the surface of my eyes, which is making the use of 3 link couplings in 4mm difficult so I have decided that PVCS will probably be my final 00 layout prior to go up to 0 gauge. Having enjoyed operating Peafore Yard I thought it would be a good start to replicate it in a smaller form in 7mm. Peafore Yard was 4' x 2' which if replicated exactly would be 7' x 3.5' in 0 gauge: This size wouldn't be practical especially from a width point of view so not building the upper level would bring the width to just under 2ft, while I was keen to keep the scenic board down to 5ft, giving me a track plan like this: . One advantage of modelling a model is I have already have a 3d image of what I am trying to create: A Dapol Class 08 is on order to get me going, will be a while before progress proper on the layout though...
  12. With the promised advent of the Hornby TTS sound decoder for the 4mm 08, I have started to wonder whether it would be feasible to bypass the power output element in some way, in order to utilise the sound facilities only, whilst retaining the higher amperage non sound decoder currently powering my Dapol O gauge 08? I do not underestimate the problems that may arise - which decoder would take precedence, would they oppose each other, different number of pins, linking the sounds to the status of the beefier decoder etc. I just wonder if anyone more knowledgeable has already tried this with some of the existing TTS decoders in 7mm locos. I understand that some members do not rate the performance of these decoders in relation to speed etc, but I think it might be an interesting challenge, although outside my own technical expertise. Any comments would be gratefully received. John
  13. So following on from my Stoneferry engineering micro in the 7mm section I have had another bash at something else. Some scrap wood has been staring at me for ages so along with some spare peco track and a re-found draw runner I set to work to see what would fit. Paul
  14. As a first post I would be very grateful for some information on a LIMA O Gauge 4F gear train. As a lockdown project I have been trying to restore this loco to run on a newly created garden railway. The motor is overhauled and picks up power from the rails but I am missing a gear to connect power to the rear wheel. The pinion on the motor shaft is present, as is the next gear wheel that engages with it (this has a small cog to the rear) . But the next gear wheel that connects this small cog to the large gear wheel attached to the rear wheel is missing. Is this gear wheel unique to the 4F or is it shared with other LIMA models - even other gauges. Can anyone please suggest a source for this rather crucial part! With thanks.
  15. Hi guys and gals, First time Post for me but wanted to know if anyone produces a rtr or kit of the mermaid side tipping wagons on 7mm. Any help would be appreciated for these intriguing little wagons. Paul
  16. I have just received a wonderful book about the Sand Hutton railways I’m very interested in the 15’’ gauge the most there’s even a handy drawing of a class 30! I like the minimum gauge enclosed coach and brake vans but the book only has photographs of them (unlike the later larger narrow gauge railway) which is a shame. Do you know if anyone drew some plans or if there are more photographs of the minimum gauge coach and brakevan?
  17. So got the chassis wired up and wheels turn fine. Added the con rods and now it won't budge. It's like it's seized up. It's a DJH 03 kit. Is this a quartering problem? Wheels are slaters and I've gone for right hand lead. Thanks.
  18. Hello again, So a lot has happened since the last blog so I'll bring you up to speed. In the last blog, I asked for some help regarding the ARC-ing, sadly no-one came forward to give me any hints or tips. So I took the logical step to go back and re-do what I had done, this was a whole afternoon spent trying to get the model to operate, firstly all the brake rigging came off and the engine ran fine. So what became a three hour process of elimination of what was wrong with the locomotive, with a result of the engine running very nicely!! Following that, the model was cleaned again and again, before I decided to put the model into primer! Great Eastern Works Grey anyone?? Anyway, following this the model was painted into black the following day, and just before I sat down to write this I'm just letting the extra's dry now!! The model is starting to look the part now, the next job after I have given another brief coat of black paint in certain area's. Then this will be handed over to my good friend for the locomotive to be lined in both white around the buffer beam and red around the tank-sides, after this the next job will be to fit the decals to the locomotive. This will be to fit in with the Loco which I am looking to do which is No.7045. In addition to this I have also been working on the GER locomotive disks, you can see these in the background of the photo's above. Personally I think this will all be rapped up by the end of the next part!!
  19. My thread to cover the construction of random wagons... Hopefully I will get better at it... Good evening, Worked most of the day, was able to take a few pictures for my main thread. The modelling highlight of the day was the Hattons parcel waiting for me when I got home.. Inside was the BR 5 plank, steel ends, unfitted in a finish to represent unpainted wood. For me the jury is out on the rocking solebar on one side. I think the principle is fine, but as noticed on a lionheart wagon it seems to need more weight in the wagon to make it work properly. I note that the wheels have pinpoint axles and a finer flange than the Dapol Spoked wheels that arrived in the same box: I have grown to like the parallel tubular bearing over the pin point that is the norm in 4mm. (As an aside I remember articles by Bob East where he turned down the ends of Hornby Dublo axles and used a piece of PTFE tube for a bearing, funny how things stick in your mind...) The couplings must be the Lionheart style; nice links, not sure about the hooks. Might be styled for function, but I prefer the pure Dapol Hooks as in their Screw Couplings, especially when compared to the real RCH hook. Lionheart style Dapol Screw Coupling RCH Drawbar Under the headstock is a box. Is that a mounting for a Kadee coupler? . My moans aside, a very nice model. It comes with Moreton Brakework i.e. 2 blocks only. I intend to fit another set of brakework and a vacuum cylinder. It will get a repaint (bauxite as a base), with maybe some subtle wood graining added as the planks seem very smooth. I did look for a previous review, but couldn't find anything. If I gone over things already covered, please excuse me. 4266 2510 4346 2610 4720 3110 4929 0211 5016 0311 5203 0611 6525 2003 - 7758 10-09 8218 071018 8489 281018 9825 221218 10348 311218 10408 010119 10547 030119 10672 10777 05012019 11006 0901 11182 1201 11263 1302 12867 0303 15061 1604 - 17747 17-08 18036 23-08, 21563 24-12, 22437 7-1 22866 11-01 23060 12-01 23225 13-01 23739 15-01 24118 19-01 25494 05-02 25867 09-02. —- 26960 01-03 - 28495 13-03
  20. Hello again, After a bit of work I have finished the building work on the J68, so it'll be a bit brief, but I would like a bit of help from the vast group of experienced modelers out there... Anyway, the kit has reached a stage where the fittings have been going on. So since the last update, I've fitted all the cab and boiler fittings, for this I have used Araldite to hold these parts together, apart from the lifting lugs which I have been white metal soldered in place which has meant that the Air Vents on the tanks are now soldered in place too!! Further work has moved to the fitting of the injectors and relevant pipe work. Plus the fitting of the brake blocks and brake rigging. This is where the problems are, since fitting the blocks and rigging I have found that the locomotive is Arc-ing when the power is running, now this has not happened before since I fitted the blocks & rigging. Further work has been carried out on the Vacuum, air pipes, Steam Heat Pipe work. The reason for painting this is prepared before being glued in, this is also because of the numbers on the buffer beam, my plan is once the decals are in along with the varnish I will glue the pipework using Araldite, but not too much as they need to look smart. Further work has included the Destination boards, interestingly the kit comes with two boards (Right) which I intend to put into the back of the cab on the brackets. Because I didn't see that these brackets, and disks I bought some more from Ragstone Models. The spare set which I now have can be used on the loco when running. Please note the really smart looking backhead and finished oil can. What I'd like to know is it the Rigging as it's so close to the track? The photo below is an old(ish) one, but I thought it might help. I have moved the brake blocks back away from the tyre, they are roughly 1.5 - 2mm away. So if you have any idea's to help me that would be appreciated. All in all the model is ready for painting, just a bit more cleaning to do before I put this into Primer, but it won't be too long before further work is carried out!! Thanks Tom
  21. Evening all, Despite having plenty to occupy my spare time already, a developing appreciation for the breadth of RTR GWR O gauge motive power is leading me towards a new avenue of investigation. It suits a number of pre-existing biases (the GWR is my home region, to which I'm rather attached; I enjoy the operational side of railway modelling and so tend look to branch line/goods workings, and see a clear benefit in working in a larger scale; the poisoned chalice of being able to plan a layout for a large space), and I would like to follow these thoughts up. The problem I have is that all my modelling experience is in 4mm, and I'm uncertain of the best way to proceed in 7mm. I ask for help in finding a trackplan for a 7mm, GWR, rural (seems to make the most sense, although very open to alternatives) facility, which will allow involved operations (I'm mostly about the shunting) without resorting to hectic timetabling, but also justify a 43XX-worked passenger service from time to time. Nothing from the usual touchstones of CJF's 60 Plans, a brace of Iain Rice books has grabbed me (or indeed RMWeb's own @Harlequin, inspiring as they are) and I'm struggling to usefully develop an Inglenook-based idea. I lean slightly towards plans with a continuous run, or at least return loop, but remain very open to the traditional BLT-to-fiddleyard/traverser approach. The layout would be for one operator (the norm, there are up to four interested parties but this is not a major consideration), and sessions would likely be in the 2-4 hour region. No exhibition day-long marathons, no 15-minute-solution shunting puzzles. Automation is an area of interest for me, as are any dock/quayside links the railway might have. The maximum potenial space is c.42'x22'. Access is primarily central, from above, or optionally midway along the right-hand 22' wall. This is very much a limit, not a target. The usual drive to use space efficently still exists. The available area may be near-infinite, but time is currently non-existant (hence all the layout planning) and funds are likely to have reachable limits. The sort of prototypes that appeal are: Yeovil, Hendford Sidings Frome (I'm very happy to have only half the station, using that overall roof and workshops as a scenic break). Teignmouth. I feel there's lots of potential here, but that it would be difficult to realise...? Of the 'pure' shunting puzzles, the Inglenook has always been a favourite; of 'small' layout designs, The Piano Line has struck me as particularly elegant. Any ideas much appreciated, thanks for your time Schooner
  22. I recently purchased one of the new O gauge Dapol British Railways Banana vans, and after doing a bit of research and making a few changes to it thought the following notes might be of interest. They represent the distillation of my researches but are by no means definitive, and more information would be welcomed.
  23. I'm back once again, This update is mainly to bring you to speed with the build... With the cab, tool boxes, backhead (removable) and other controls fitted, the loco is starting to come alive!! Sadly I have reached the stage where I have in fact made a mistake with the back of the cab(which you cannot see). However, Nothing is ever permanent and brass is so forgiving as I have found out, that I will correct the back of the cab to get the back into the right place!! It's all about learning, but thinking now, having worked on the footplate you would have thought I would have noticed this mistake, must be the lack of actual footplate work I haven't done in the last 4 months!! Once the cab was built up, I quickly moved onto building the Smokebox, the non-riveted GER early LNER type, once completed the boiler is fitted with the boiler bands and the brass strip which splits the boiler and smokebox apart...Something to paint in brass once the kit is painted!!! This then moved to fitting the top of the tanks and preparing for the cab roof and foot steps. With those things completed, a test fit was in order, sadly this was the point where I had run out of 145 solder, the cab was completed and the footsteps put in. The only major parts I could do were the white metal castings and the start of clean up!! However, I had plenty of electrical solder, this meant I could get on with getting the motor moving the loco, firstly I began with putting the loco between the lid and bottom of the box to see where the tight spots are on the wheels. I did this by loose fitting some wires to the motor then testing it, following the problems being resolved I fitted all the wiring to the pickups. After running and filing for while the loco was prepared for operation with all the axles, bearing and connecting rods receiving oil, allowing me to put the J68 on the track and ran for the first time without assistance!! I must admit for a first brass kit I was very proud, further proof will come in the form of my You Tube video's of this running in the future!! As you can see the loco is starting to look rather nice, this is how the kit now looks, as of the today ( 12/07/2020) I was kindly given the decals I require from fellow club members, which are the correct type I require for the tank-sides!! More clean up is certainly required, but I am steadily getting though it all, I should have it finished by the next part in terms of the build then it will be one big clean up job before the etched primer goes on and of course PAINT!! Anyway thanks again, Tom
  24. So with the last parts of my degree finished, I can give myself a few weeks before I move to pastures new... So it's worth mentioning what has happened too me since writing and planning for the Hattons A3, I had a sudden realization that getting something such as a RTR A3 would actually cause more hassle than it would be practical. Of course the original intention for the A3 would be to operate at a friends garden railway. Which is still very much the case, however, in the time since finishing my degree it has become very clear to myself that getting something smaller for a operational layout would in fact be better, the cost of owning and running the A3 would in fact be harder as it would probably spend more time in the box rather than running, in addition it has allowed me to look into investing my money into more rolling stock, as plans develop for a kit of an LNER Sundry Van or LNER Fruit Van. So, much like previous projects where I have changed my mind, which I find myself fully entitled to do! History Briefly the J68's or GER C72 Class were built in 3 Batches of 10, producing a total of 30 engines, the first 10 were built for passenger services in mind ( Fitted with Screw link couplings, Screw reverser's, Vacuum and Air breaking) and the last 20 were build with shunting duties in mind. The first 10 are where my interest lie's, as the locomotives flexibility can allow the engine to pull small passenger & mixed freight trains. The Kit What has struck me is the ability to develop these kits, looking through the instructions it is very clear that a locomotive can in fact be modified to appear in multiple different forms, in this case the locomotive can have Ross Poppet Safety Valves, Ramsbottom Safety Valves, Condensing gear and GER or LNER type Chimney's. It's very clear that attention to detail is key here, although most modelers would take this kit to the next step in development by looking to purchase extra components to adapt the model to look and perhaps operate to a higher standard. For those who follow my modelling and know my M.O. it was almost destined that I take the kit as it came and develop it further to become a better kit overall. Replacement parts This is where we begin with the first major parts that I am replacing between the kit and other small companies, in this case I have replaced the buffers from the white metal versions to turned brass & sprung buffers by Markits for GER Tank Engine Locomotives. The next major change has come in the form of the couplings, as Connoisseur produce a basic coupling for show more than anything else, however I went to H&A models and got myself some working screw link couplings. The final major part which I have replaced is from Ragestone Models, in which case we have the replacement Ramsbottom Safety valves next to there counter part and the replacement reversing wheel, regulator & gland. The only part not being used is the GE whistle which can be used for other project's in the future. Frames Any solid base for a model or even a real locomotive lie's in the frames, as per the instructions we will focus on the frames and get them to a good state before I even look at doing the body. surprisingly this was rather easy to sort out. However this being my first O gauge kit I thought right I'll take my time anyway. I am rather impressed how quickly the instructions move to get the frames together for the loco, after 4 major segments of the instructions I had the frames together and ready for major assembly. Swiftly moving to fitting the rest bar the brakes everything was rather straight forward. Body Following this the body was a pure joy to build nothing too complex other than the beading which fits into the cabsides and the smokebox but after stopping and thinking all came together rather easy. The tanks all fairly easy to put together. All in all it has been rather enjoyable to get the kit to this point. The kit is very quick moving once you reach this point Anyway that's all for part 1 I will produce part 2 tomorrow and bring you up to date as to how the locomotive looks right now... Thanks Tom
  25. Taking note from the inspirational 'Off the Beaten track' blog I'm building an O gauge wagon kit before diving into 7mm. I chose a Slaters BR Shocvan, adding Slaters own sprung W-irons to get the best possible running. I'm painting the wheels as rusty on the backs and oily dust on the fronts.
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