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Found 62 results

  1. I replaced the filter on my spray booth. Lucked out at a Menard's (sort of a big Halfords, I suppose.) Not only did they have respirator filters in stock, they also had furnace filter material in a roll! A few strokes of a box knife later, I had new filters. With my booth operational again, I sprayed the balance of the Kaempfer body in gloss white; I suppose this was technically 'Classic White.' I had no plain gloss white on hand. The old Boyd Hi Gloss white had solidified when I opened it. Not a perfect job. The second cup of paint started spitting on my. I think I had some drying in the brush. Had to pull the thing down to components to clean it. I don't think I fully cleaned it, either. I've mistreated the old thing. My fault, sadly. I think, when Badger does their 'birthday' specials again, I'll pick one of those up. I finished building the Heavy Gundam I was building for a friend. I have all the foil stickers applied, so I decided to apply a couple of coats of gloss for waterslides; I don't think it was perfect. I'll let it sit for a day or two, see if it settles. Humbrol Gloss Varnish, in case there's anything I should know. When I come back to it, I'll start adding the markings. We'll see.
  2. I thought I’d start this thread in a similar manner to the existing colour match thread, but specifically for the post-privatisation era. I’ve used Halfords automotive rattle cans for a few years now, and have never had any issue with them to speak of. The main reason I use them has been well discussed in the other thread, namely I can open, use and store a can in very little time. Whereas to set up, mix paint, spray, clean and pack away an airbrush (without a permanent set up) seems to take an age for me. The paint application from Halfords is generally high gloss (perfect for transfers) and a little thicker than with an airbrush, but multiple thin coats work well. This is, of course, my own experience and opinion. So to the list. I intend this to be an accurate(ish!) database of colour matches, either to Halfords (or other brands) off the shelf rattle cans, or to RAL colours or other codes which you know of which can be mixed specifically. Where possible, photographic evidence would help greatly to ‘verify’ a match or for the reader to make their own decision of whether to use. Please write a reply in this thread with your match(es) and photo(s) if possible, and I’ll endeavour to update this OP, with a link to any posts with photos. If you’ve heard of a colour match or think a colour will match then I’ll add it to the provisional section until it can be confirmed as having been used/matched successfully. Additionally, any notes about the match will be added as this will be useful to readers, particularly the best primer or base coat yielding the closest match. I’ll start with the matches I’ve obtained and post underneath with photos. I say this is a post-privatisation thread (the era I model) however any matches for the D&E era would be greatly appreciated. I’ll also pull a couple from the pages within the existing thread which may be useful for D&E era modellers and link to those. I don’t intend this thread to be a ‘competitor’ to the other in any way, merely a more focused (and possibly more detailed) database. Confirmed Close Matches: Rover Inca Yellow (Halfords) -Warning Panel Yellow, best sprayed on red primer/base (link) -Network Rail Yellow Volkswagen Mars Red (Halfords) -Bufferbeam red (link) -DB red (very bright - could do with weathering/dark base) (link) Renault Royal Blue (Halfords) -DRS Blue, a tad dark but good match (link) -ROG Blue, (same as above) Volkswagen Brilliant Orange (Halfords) -Cant Rail stripe, a little dark so best sprayed on white base (link - used on DRS 37716) -RMC Orange Ford Olympic Blue (Halfords) -AAE Blue (as seen on ‘Megafret’ intermodal flats), good match to Dapol’s colour (link) Ford Polar Grey (Halfords) -EMR lower grey band (current livery), possibly too dark so best sprayed on white base Peugeot Antelope Beige -Exec light grey/faun (a few people have favoured this) Ford Rosso Red -BR Carmine (from here) Unconfirmed Matches: Ford Modena Green -BR Green Rover Nautilus Blue -Tiphook Blue Peugeot Arctic White -Tiphook White Volvo Dark Grey -Exec Dark Grey Ford Aporto Red -EWS Maroon Please take this list as a guide only...I nor any other contributors take responsibility for the accuracy, which is why I ask you to post photos of the colours if you can. Thanks, Jack.
  3. Hi I'm just dipping my toe in the water regarding US modelling. Does anyone know if there is a supplier in the UK for Santa Fe Blue and Yellow paint? (Preferably in spray cans). Alternatively are there any car colours that are a good match so I can buy a can in Halfords or even have one made up at a car paint place? Many thanks
  4. I'm trying to 'legally' (!) send some unused paint and varnish spray cans back to someone and I'm struggling to find any courier to take them. My local Post Office has said they can't accept spray cans or paint for posting. Any ideas? Thanks as always for any help or suggestions.
  5. Hello, I am currently putting together an I.P Engineering FR Co Type 2 quarryman's coach for my father for Christmas and I am trying to find a close match to the prototype's current livery. What paints have you used for this model? Any help from narrow gauge modellers of all scales would be of great help! Attached is a photo of the prototype coach running on the FR. Thanks, James
  6. Knocking around the workbench is this vacuum fitted iron ore tippler - a more or less 'straight' build of the Parkside kit with some added detail. I'll spare you these details since similar things appear elsewhere on this blog and elsewhere on the forum, but the reference pictures are from Paul Bartlett. The prototypes started in iron ore traffic but moved on to stone in fairly short order and are best known for operating out of Merehead, while some of their unfitted sisters ended up working coal in south Wales by the early '70s. The paint job might be of interest to someone,so here we go. These tipplers inevitably got rather battered and have all the same challenges of the 16 ton mineral, but without the doors. There are a number of characteristic weathering features of these particular boxes on wheels, notably the vertical streaks beneath the little triangular brackets at the top of the bodysides. This shot should show what I mean: http://paulbartlett....375ae#h3fb375ae. The look I'm going for is a wagon that's been in service for some time and due a repaint which the original 'Iron Ore Tippler' branding painted out and the word 'ORE VB' applied above the number. Irritatingly, I can only find colour shots showing similar treatment to unfitted wagons, via Flickr. A coat of primer was followed up with a dark rust mix on the body and a coat of Humbrol 'chocolate' (no. 98) on the underframe. I'll need to go back and touch this up as the red oxide primer is still grinning through here and there, but that will be part of the weathering job. The body was then overlaid with a rather rough second coat to represent faded bauxite (a mix of Humbrol 113 and 100) with the body rusting at the seams. Part of the point of doing this was to replicate the distinctive weathering noted above. There should be a picture of the finished wagon here by rigths, but I seem to have neglected to take one. Next time I'm in Somerset... I think this brings the total in the boxes to 10 (most of the others are Bachmann slope sided British Steel types) Another five should make a reasonable train... Adam
  7. Does anyone have a good match in the Halfords spray range for BR Southern Region coaching stock Green? The various lists I've seen on the internet use the same can for this as for other greens which are very different from BR Green.
  8. Hi everyone, I'm looking at the possibility of buying a Bachmann 64xx in GWR green with a view to converting it to a 74xx in the same livery. Ideally I would prefer not to have to give the loco a full repaint; I will also not be weathering it. Can anyone recommend a paint that's a close match to the original model? Again, as an ideal, I would prefer an acrylic paint. Thanks in advance for any help. Regards, Alex.
  9. Over the years I've practiced lining my models using a bowpen and paint and reached the stage where the result was one that I was satisfied with. Recently, however, I've had problems in that the paint seems to be drying too quickly in the pen and not flowing properly. Up until now I have used Humbrol paints as advised by the various experts / professionals in their writings, but I'm now beginning to wonder if the recent changes make them less suitable. If this is so what paints are now the best for this purpose. Jeremy
  10. I am considering decanting my tinlets of Humbrol and Revell paints into another storage medium for a number of reasons. 1: Easy to clean. 2: Easy to store. 3: Airtight. 4: Can be stored in a thinned state. 5: Easy to check colour. I have talked to a company in Cumbria called The Plastic Bottles Company and they suggest that their Fluorinated 50ml HDPE Bottle With 20mm Neck No Cap would be suitable. Other sizes are available. A suitable lid can also be purchased to seal the bottle. The suggested item is the 20mm Ribbed Wadded Cap EPE Liner. The EPE liner apparently helps give a better seal keeping the bottle airtight. The company also does a 20mm twist top which could aid decanting into airbrush cups. Minimum order quantity is 25 units of each and an order for this 20mm bottle and lid would cost about £13.00 excluding delivery. Has anyone had any experience of decanting these types of paints or storing ready thinned colours in this type of bottle or do you have your own container that you are happy with. I am looking at this idea because I am hoping it will be easier to keep the neck of the bottle clean. It will be easier for me to open the bottles with arthritic hands and no more bent tin lids caused by trying to open recalcitrant lids. I look forward to any ideas and thoughts.
  11. Hello all, I'm looking for some of the above paint, this was a limited release over 10 years ago but am struggling to get a paint to match the Bachmann MK2 Hebridean coaches. I'm aware of the impending Bachmann 101 observation car. Looking for preferably full tins of the paint if you have any to spare? Regards & thanks MrB
  12. At my last count, I have 8 models 'in progress' which I reckon is 7 too many. When I look at them, the majority have stalled at the painting stage or rather lack of painting. There has been much displacement activity - books bought, airbrushes obtained, spray booth acquired, this forum post etc - but very little activity. I suppose if I'm honest it's because I'm a bit scared of 'spoiling' a model. The sort of questions I have relate to what many must take as basic knowledge - of which I have little/none in this field. So hear goes. Questions Should I paint bits ' as I go' or finish the kit and then paint, knowing that I will have to disassemble or mask bits? What primer should I use. Having primed, is it ok to go back and fill in any little holes that then seem to magically appear, with Milliput or similar and then prime again? How many coats? What top coat and how many? Varnish - a good idea? Klear seems to be mentioned in old magazines but seems unavailable nowadays - what to use instead? Are there really no rules at all & should I just 'have a go and see'? Thoughts ( not answers ) To me it would seem to be best to paint as I go but I look at some of the beautiful kits some of you guys make and they seem to remain unpainted until the last moment. Painting as you go which I have tried a bit, seems to result in the paint suffering along proud edges and corners with the shine of metal starting to come through. This may be down to incorrect priming? For brass kits much talk is of etching primer which I think is horrid stuff to use (smell), many seem to swear by Halfords Primer. For plastic kits, do you need to bother priming at all as most kits are pre-coloured. Is one coat enough? Should I keep going until everything is covered even though this may lead to loss of detail? I realise everyone will probably have their favourite brand, but there seems to be a choice these days between enamel and acrylic. Assuming I'm hoping to airbrush in the main, does either one have particular merit. Ok, everything must be cleaned first, I know but after that? I realise I'm probably opening the proverbial can here but thanks for reading this far and I'm open to all constructive suggestions. Brian
  13. Does the group know whether the footboards on LSWR brake vans were painted, and if so what colour? Thanks, Steve
  14. Hello, I am currently putting together an I.P Engineering FR Co Type 2 quarryman's coach for my father for Christmas and I am trying to find a close match to the prototype's current livery. What paints have you used for this model? Any help from narrow gauge modellers of all scales would be of great help! Attached is a photo of the prototype coach running on the FR. Thanks, James
  15. Folks, I’ve a rake of Branchlines TVR 4-wheelers to build and paint. I intend to finish them in the single colour TVR “brown” livery. The instructions state the TVR used “a purple-brown colour” Would that be anywhere near to the colour used by the LNWR or would it be like the GWR lake colour or what? Replies awaited with bated breath. Tim T Modlling Cwm Cynon inEM
  16. I have a coach in GW Chocolate and Cream. I'm planning to paint it maroon on one side and Blood & Custard on the other. How different was the BR Custard to the GW Cream, I have the feeling that the BR Custard was quite pale but the GW Cream was quite rich. Am I getting confused... The GW Cream will make a good undercoat for the cream anyway... I'm looking at 1963 so the Blood and Custard will be a bit if a stretch... Thanks
  17. I'm starting to get paint down on the most recent projects. Firstly, the latest contest model; I hate myself. For some god-awful reason, I decided that yellow was a good idea. Not only that, I decided 15+-year-old spray cans of Testors were a good choice for the yellow. Some of the parts seem to be OK, but the whole lot could use a second coat. Hopefully, the one can will last. Of the three yellows I had, no two were the same. The pirates are coming along; I'm starting to block in the base colors for each section. I've also started on layering the white areas. These are supposed to be 16th-century, so I think nothing being quite 'white' will work OK. Finally, the centaur is nearing completion; The pastel work isn't exactly what I expected. The tutorial I was following was using the lovely Pan Pastel line. I have one tray of such. What I do have are an ancient set of chalk pastels. The tutorial also didn't specify what kind of brush, so I guessed. This is most definitely not speckled. This hardly looks like a palomino. I still like how it has come out yet. I think I will try to deepen some of the shadows with more pastels. Clear, and then I will add a wash. I think this should get a pin-wash, and not a dip. I also need to finish the base. Naturally, all impetuous for this project is off. The Dungeons & Dragons campaign this character was for has gone on hiatus. I'll still finish him.
  18. Just more spay painting. The battle suits have taken multiple coats of primer to cover their existing paint. All the drones are in black now, as are all the infantry. I picked up the infantry already basecoated. Saves some time. In keeping with trying to clean up stuff on my bench, I finally primed my Firefly after nearly a year. I haven't needed it, so urgency was minimal. Tonight saw the suits under black for the first time. I need to turn them, and I haven't figured a good way to mount them. So, each layer needs to dry before I get the next angle. I'll try to figure something better out for color. Speaking of color, That's next! All these Tau are getting Soviet green. I'll detail from there. Damn space communists...
  19. Bill

    O Gauge -

    And here is the result notified in the last post... Introducing - Jock the shunter, signalman Dave and naturally Andy the guard - more to come... Including engine drivers, a fireman and a passenger.. It was quite enjoyable painting them - not exactly professional... The was a minor disaster with the water crane, leaving a it little out of plumb... Somehow the epoxy resin took longer to dry than it should Jock's shunting pole lost its prong and was repaired using a bit of copper wire and far too much glue. Somehow in the middle of all this painting a bottle of black paint wound up on the carpet - oops! New painting protocols have been put in place which should prevent this from happening in the future. The station shelter came ready made from Skytrex - Some Slater's GWR canopy edging has been added... It will need some painting so that the browns match up. The next project is well under way, which is to build a Slater's Diagram 208 Vent Van... I am waiting for some transfers to arrive from Fox so it can be completed. The whole saga will be the subject of the next post...
  20. Hi Guys My local model shop has just moved into Ammo Paints by Mig Jemenez (www.migjimenez.com) as a replacement for another brand of acrylic paints that has been causing them a lot of problems. Talking to some "experts" on the exhibition and demonstration circuit has told me that this is a really good range of paints BUT it's colour names are all geared towards war gaming and military modelling and, as you might guess, I'm interested in railway modelling colours. Great! Decent Paint! However, I have a minor colour perception issue (not colour blind, the exact opposite, I'm CP1, I perceive many more colours and colour variations than the average observer would) so I find looking at colour charts and making educated guesses about which colour to use to paint, say, a 16T mineral wagon actually very difficult. Exam question: Does anybody know of (or have) a table of equivalent colours for the various railway livery colours we would commonly use? Let's say fitted goods bauxite, unfitted goods grey, for early BR era and equivalent colours for the grouping era companies. TIA Cheers Elliott
  21. Many books on the BCDR describe the colours used for the locomotives and rolling stock but I have yet to come across any references to the paint schemes used for the station buildings. The black & white photos in the reference books are not a great help. Does anyone have any information on the colours used for the woodwork on the signal boxes, platform canopies, ticket offices etc ? My particular interest is the 1930s period but any information covering the life of the railway would be appreciated.
  22. I'm moving my stuff into my new railway room. I've got a corner computer desk as my workbench. But how do I organise my tools, paints, glues, couplings, transfers, nuts and bolts, handrail knobs, plasticard,window frames, models under construction, scenic bits etc in an orderley way so I can find everything and hopefully keep it tidy?
  23. Over the years I have picked up several of these vans on ebay in various states of (dis)repair and plan on improving them - a means to learn some skills. As part of this general process, I need to strip the paint off two of these vans as the prior owner repainted them and I would like to separate the bodies from the chassis to facilitate the process; I do not see how to do this. Rather than force the issue, I thought that I would appeal to the general audience out here and solicit your help. Any advice would be gratefully received. Also, I am based in the US and I do not have ready access to "authentic paints", i.e., railfreight brown - any suggestions for alternatives in the Tamiya range? Thanks, Tex
  24. This is reported to be the paint scheme that will be applied to Norfolk Southern's AC44C6M rebuilds. DC to AC conversions. As far as current day Class Ones go, NS is by far my favorite. All the new and interesting paint scheme variations the past 4 years are a big part of that. The fact that NS has two major routes that cross and a fairly large yard two miles from my house is another major plus. I have easy access to watch NS. http://www.railpictures.net/photo/586236/ NS 4001 was through my town earlier this week so I finally caught that unit. Haven't downloaded my pics yet but here's some info on the AC44C6M fleet with pictures of the first three units completed. The blue/yellow/grey is pretty cool and since I grew up along the Delaware & Hudson, this scheme is somewhat reminiscent of the D&H. In spite of that, I think I prefer the black/grey version of the scheme. Looking forward to catching it one of these days. http://www.nsdash9.com/rosters/4000.html Jason C
  25. I'm currently building a model of a German narrow gauge rail car. The livery colour is RAL 3003 'Rubinrot'. Can anyone recommend a supplier of a suitable paint or an equivalent from one of the ranges readily available in UK. Thanks
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