Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'scratchbuild'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • World of Railways
    • Get Britain Modelling
    • BRM Magazine
    • GardenRail Magazine
    • World of Railways Website
    • Traction Magazine
  • Forum Admin Area
  • Trade & Products Zone
    • Products & Trade area
    • Model Shop Guide
    • Media
    • Wanted
  • Modelling Zone
    • BRM/RMweb Cakebox Challenge
    • Modellers' Blogs
    • Layout & Workbench Content
    • Scale Specific
    • Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
    • Skills & Knowledge Centre
    • Power, Control & DCC
    • Prototype
    • Continental/Overseas
    • Special Interests
    • Modelling musings & miscellany
  • Area Groups, Clubs & Societies, Exhibitions & Social
  • About RMweb
  • Narrow Gauge Forum
  • Garden Railways Forum
  • Model Engineering Forum

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • RMweb Exhibition/Event Calendar
  • Warners Exhibitions

Categories

  • 2mm scale
  • 4mm scale
  • 7mm scale
  • Other scales
  • Demonstration stand

Categories

  • OO / 4mm scale
  • N / 2mm scale
  • Other scales
  • Books

Product Groups

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 43 results

  1. For a while now I've just been posting all my kitbuilds, scratchbuilds and 3D prints in the layout thread of whichever layout the model suited, so I thought I'd start a fresh thread. I considered putting this in the 3D designing/printing section, but thought it would be better to have a single thread to cover both 3D models and standard kitbuilds/scratchbuilds, which I currently do more than 3D printing.At present my Australian modelling covers a reasonable variety of prototypes and gauges - at this precise moment in time I have layouts under construction for both HO and HOn3.5, and models under design/construction in HOn3.5, HO, and EM, which I intend to use to represent prototype broad gauge, as the Victorian and South Australian railway systems which I am interested in were originally built to 5'3" broad gauge, though Victoria also has some 2'6" narrow gauge, most famous for Puffing Billy out in the Dandenong Ranges, and some standard gauge (though that's only been here since 1962, and not the focus of my modelling interest), and South Australia had a mix of 3'6" narrow gauge ,standard gauge, and 5'3" broad gauge. My current builds cover the South Australian 3'6" narrow gauge system circa 1880, and the Victorian 5'3" system circa 1890-1920, and 1940-1970. The reason for the two different eras is to cover both prototype broad gauge modelling using EM gauge, and standard HO modelling. A lot of the earlier designs don't suit HO gauge without modification, as will be shown at some point in this post, hence doing the earlier period in EM. As my work on SAR NG to date has been building track out of matchsticks and Code 75 rail, and regauging a couple of BG wagons, I won't bother to cover it here as it's not that interesting, nor would it serve much purpose. To which end, I'll start with my latest HO/EM project. Originally started as a project to teach a friend how to use Google SketchUp for railway modelling to 3D print, this particular project has evolved somewhat, partly due to necessity and partly due to accident. The initial plan was to design a small, basic early VR loco using drawings in a book I have, which covers VR designs from 1854 to 1904. The Victorian Railways M class 4-4-0 suburban tank loco was chosen, after some convincing from another friend who is somewhat obsessed with the M class and it's 4-4-2 rebuild, the ME. Below is a basic line drawing of an original condition M class. The sloping smokebox appears to have only been a feature of the prototype, so I decided not to overcomplicate things in the design, and use the standard smokebox fitted to the remainder of the class. The basic design - footplate, cab, tanks and boiler, and the start of the funnel, was completed in a single night, and some screenshots are shown below. Footplate, cab and tanks done to the basic outline Boiler and smokebox added, and the bunker and tanks have now had more detail added after close inspection of the few photographs I have of original condition Ms. The next day I added the funnel, smokebox door outline, and the dome, and designed a removeable cab roof for it. Funnel, cab roof and smokebox door outline done. The funnel saddle looks like it sits up a bit too high at the base - this was reduced later. The dome, buffer beams, and tank fillers were then added, and the funnel saddle modified slightly to make it look slightly slimmer. Much nicer. At this point I decided to put it on my 3D printer, an EPAX X10, and run a print overnight. The print came up the next morning, and revealed a couple of areas which needed improvement along with the extra detail that needed adding. Namely, the footplate was slightly warped due to it's thickness (only 0.5mm), and the boiler had sagged due to a lack of supports. The footplate beneath the boiler up to the smokebox saddle was hollowed out - this is prototypical anyway upon further inspection, so didn't bother me, and the footplate was thickened to 0.75mm. I was reluctant to make it thicker as it would have looked bad, but am glad with my decision. In addition, the bufferbeams had warped somewhat to be on an angle to the footplate, so a strengthener was added to them. A couple of photos of the print, showing the issues, are below. Once the fixes noted above had been added, I also added the base for the safety valves into the design, along with holes to add buffers. This was then printed, and came off the printer as of 4:30am this morning (2 and a half hours ago). More or less a complete success! The first print is in the dark grey, as it had received a coat of primer. The new M hadn't been cleaned up quite as much as the original, hence a couple of areas not looking as crisp. Notably, the sag in the boiler was gone, as was the angle on the bufferbeams (mostly...). At this point, I started measuring it up to design the chassis, at which point I discovered a fatal flaw in the design. Having been designed to scale off diagrams for a locomotive built on 5'3", there was not enough space in the tank cutouts for wheelsets to 16.5mm gauge. My problem is shown below - the rear driving wheels are meant to fit in the cutouts. Solution time. Some time ago, I purchased a set of EM wheel and track gauges, with the intention of modelling true-scale BG. At the time, I didn't have the 3D printer, and so my only option was to go for extremely expensive steam locomotive kits or R-T-R (a steam loco kit in Australia is $600 AUD, currently around 300GBP, though that includes wheels and a gearbox, and an R-T-R steam loco is anywhere between $600 and $800, or 300-400GBP), which would come out even more expensive accounting for new wheelsets or axles and other modifications, or to go for diesels, and my preference has always been for steam locos. With this in mind, beyond a couple of pieces of test track being built, and a couple of wagons test-converted, nothing came of it, and the gauges were left lying in a box in my room. The solid area between where the wheels need to go is 16.1mm. My EM back to back gauge is 16.5mm. I can reduce the tank walls by <.5mm either side without compromising structural integrity, to get .5mm clearance either side I only need to reduce each side by .3mm. This should be simple. I haven't designed the frames yet, but when all it takes is a few lines for stretcher bars making it EM instead of OO is easy. The gearbox and motor setup isn't affected by the change. Therefore, for my M class models and future early VR tank locos (which I've been planning to do even before realising I'll need to make them EM, because many other early types will have the same problem), I'll build them in EM for me, and modify the designs for OO for any friends who want them. This will mean the cab interior is unrealistic, as the base will come far too far inwards. On what is already a very narrow cab this would have bugged the hell out of me, but the couple of friends who were interested won't care so much about this as long as they can make it run. Wheelsets and electrics. The M class had 5' driving wheels with 16 spokes. This comes out at 17.5mm 16 spoke. After some investigation it was revealed no wheelsets of this diameter or spoke count were available. The closest were 17mm 14 spoke - J94 wheels. I'll be ordering a set of these from Alan Gibson, along with a set of wheelsets for an HOn3.5 project soon, though it'll most likely take a long time for them to arrive given shipping delays given the current crisis. The boiler will fit a 12mm diameter motor, conveniently I have a very nice 10x12x15mm dual-shaft motor here that will hopefully suit it. The gearbox will most likely be a High Level RoadRunner, but I have to check measurements first. Paint. The model will be painted in Victorian Railways two-tone green, and fully lined out. This was the only livery they had in original condition, the next livery on, Canadian Red and Chocolate, was introduced in 1903, and the M class was rebuilt into the ME class 4-4-2T between 1901 and 1905, meaning that none would have received Canadian Red, being rebuilt from green into green (for 1901-1902 rebuilds), and green into red (1903-1905 rebuilds). I don't currently know what paint colours match the two tones used, but know there are people who have painted models into the livery so will ask around. Worst case scenario I can approximate the colours based off photos of colour models. I hope this was interesting, the next update may be of either the M class, or a couple of kitbuilds I plan on starting soon for the SAR HOn3.5 layout, and for wagons for the M class (coaches will have to be sorted out at a later date). Feel free to ask any questions or leave any comments or suggestions. Peter
  2. I've finally got round to starting workbench thread. I've been this week working on producing masters (for resin casting) for some LNER vans, I Believe their diagram 172 (dia 195 with AVB)(plywood van), diagram 176 (matchboard) and diagram 187 (also will do BR dia 1/232) (plywood fruit). This is how I've got on a few days ago. The bodies are 80th plastic with evergreen strip. I'll use Parkside roofs. The fruit will take a bit longer as haven't started the ends yet. Michael Edited for correct diagram numbers
  3. Having got the basic shell of a station building I wanted to give a bit of detail and shadow relief to the structure. (starting with the picture windows. In order to get the thin balsa strips to bend enough I had to cut against the grain to allow the grain to bend for me) Having got the window sills and frames I then turned my attention to the first floor roof which needed a bit of filling. I wanted a lift shaft at the end of the station to give a bit of height. Took some references from the clock tower at Surbiton. (with lift tower included) (the platform side. I'd put a secondary shadow strip around the platform canopy.) (a final view with the shadow detailing on the tower windows and canopy highlighting the design intent) I have some balsa sealant on order before I consider painting these to get a good finish. Many thanks for reading
  4. I'm onto the second to last scratchbuilt building for this layout. This is the station building itself which as mentioned previously I have wanted to build in the art deco style. Some examples I like are as follows: (Surbiton station) (DE la Warr Pavilion) Firstly I completed the platform to give me a base to build up from: (supports put in place behind the Peco edging) (Thin balsa sheet laid on top of the structure) I then started to construct the canopy out of 3mm ply and checked to get the height right. (initial trial of the platform canopy) (and from the other direction) I then started to cut out windows and walls from thin balsa for the waiting room and platform offices (platform wall stuck in place) Need to finish off the other walls and then there will be a second level with the canopy acting as a viewing platform for a restaurant/cafe for passengers awaiting their ferry. Thanks for reading
  5. Hi all, This is a bit of a diversion but hopefully one which will prove an enjoyable foray into slightly unknown territory. I have for a while been drawn to scales larger than 7mm and have decided to dip my toe into Gauge One. Right from the start I will say this is 1/32 or 9.525mm:ft rather than 10mm to the foot. I have the space to ‘go outside’ with it but probably won’t get ‘planning permission’! So I’m consigning myself at the moment to a stand alone showcase model. In this case a Midland double bolster wagon. Reasonably simple construction and with a log load should look quite charming. I plan on presenting it in absolute ex-works condition so no weathering at all. This is an excerpt from Midland Wagons Vol 1 and shows one built to Dia 339. Construction has tentatively begun by machining up sections of timber for (top to bottom) solebars, headstocks, sides, ends, strip for end supports, strip for underframe bracing, blanks for the bolsters. I’m waiting for some 2mm laser ply to arrive before cutting the floor with engraved plank grooves. I’ve also raided Slaters stores department for the tricky bits ie wheels, axleboxes, springs, buffers, brake gear and W iron etches and couplings. So it should be a fairly straightforward introduction for me. Unsure at the moment how much accurate detail will be made beneath the wagon, we shall see. And lastly as you can see I have purchased a length of track and started on a display base edged in oak. This level of detail really deserves careful painting and weathering even of the track. Finally my thanks go to @Compound2632 for his invaluable help needed with sketches and construction notes even before starting to cut timber! More anon.
  6. Looking through some old pics in the Squirrel Archives and came across my 59 build. It was a mix of Hornby 59 and Bachmann 66 creating a frankenstein 59. Overall it was as accurate as I could get it without creating a project that would never finish and thought it may be worth a share! Last I knew it was residing with #RS4 - is it still going? First up here was the franken 59 with new exhaust bogies and chassis additions A coat of primer brought everything together ready for EWS red and gold and finally a shot of each side painted and weathered. If I find any more pics of the build I will ad them to the thread, Cheers Jerry
  7. Thread Index - NB: this index has been broken by the software upgrade. It took quite a lot of work to do and I will not be updating it to make the links work again. Please accept my apologies but use this as an indication of what's in here *somewhere*. This index is prepared by vehicle type, rolling stock first and entries listed by the first mention in the thread. Coil wagons have ended up with their own section, and the odd mentions of locos (or the less interesting bit, if you will) are at the bottom. Modified RTR stock is generally indexed by manufacturer, other stock alphabetically by type with origins in brackets. ROLLING STOCK 16 tonners: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=860829 https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=868202 24 1/2 tonner (Parkside): http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-signal-box-sundries/page-37#entry2737462 Vac’ braked 16 tonner (dia. 1/108, Parkside/Rumney Models) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1192780 Bachmann anchor-mounted tank - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-anchors-away-modifying-a-Bachmann-tank-wagon/?p=2461060 Bachmann BDA to Bobol D (dia. 1/484) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=937091 Bachmann Covhop - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1366077 Bachmann Grain (dia. 1/271) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-open-season-plastic-5-planks/?p=2155898 Bachmann LNER van - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1116089 Bachmann Mk 1 corridors - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=2017705 Bachmann Mk 1 brakegear - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-a-weighbridge-from-merthyr-vale/?p=2074679 Bachmann Presflos - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1383177 BD container (Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1516597 BR brake, Hornby - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1842410 BR Fruit van (dia. 1/230 Parkside PC42) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-cambrians-mermaid-complete/?p=2597181 BR Iron Ore hopper (dia. 1/166, 51L) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-mineral-bitsas/?p=2471669 BR Mermaid (Cambrian) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-an-early-lms-brake-part-3/&amp;do=findComment&amp;comment=2594883 BR Palvan (dia. 1/211, Parkside and Rumney Models) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-iron-ore-travails/?p=2512054 BR 5 plank (dia. 1/039, Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-flatpack-plastic-lowmac-is-the-end-in-sight/?p=2155338 BR Prestwin (dia. 1/274, Aifix/Parkside/scratch) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-prestwin-take-2-the-original/?p=3155437 BR Prestwin (dia. 1/277, Airfix/Dapol) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-prestwin/?p=3112361 BR 21 ton hopper (dia. 1/146, Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-more-open-highs/?p=2374709 BR 21 ton mineral (dia. 1/107, Rumney/Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-a-rumney-chassis-for-a-21-tonner/?p=2450112 Catfish (Cambrian) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1893674 Clayliner tank (Tri-ang/Bachmann confection) – https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-an-early-lms-brake-m806/&amp;do=findComment&amp;comment=1118238 COILS – see below for their own section Conflat A - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1515683 Dogfish (Cambrian) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1924354 and a second one - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-a-lowmac-and-loads-moving-the-medics/?p=2097684 and now a third http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-hopper-and-hybar/?p=2497271 FM insulated container (Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-reworked-gw-fruit-complete/?p=2127232 Grampus (rebuilt Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=485354 GW Fruit - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=2007908 GW opens (modified Ratio) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-modernised-gwratio-opens/?p=2118904 and steel O30 (Cambrian) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-italian-interlude/?p=2581827 GW Open C (Ratio and Morgan Design/Scalefour Society) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-prestwin/?p=3112361 GW V23 (Ratio/PECO + Parkside by PECO, via Railway Modeller) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-making-the-most-of-magazine-freebies-gw-v23/?p=3440341 Herring (Cambrian kit) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/page-18#entry1823530 Hornby Hawksworth detailing - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=2033421 Hornby shunter’s truck (detailing) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1826651 ICI Chlorine tank (Hornby Dublo twinned with Rumney Models chassis) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-a-swindon-quickie-complete/?p=2531199 Italian Ferry Van - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-underneath-the-wheel-arches/?p=2183751 LMS CCT (Hornby) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1391056 LMS dia. 1828 (Cambrian/Rumney) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-clearing-the-backlog-iron-ore-hopper-done/?p=3060793 LMS dia. 1656(?) (Parkside, modified) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-an-early-lms-brake-m806/&amp;do=findComment&amp;comment=3476917 LNER 21 ton hopper (Hornby) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1858248 and again, with modifications - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-alphabet-soup-2-sja-bedford-j/?p=2448610 Monobloc tanks (ESSO, ‘TTV’s) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=997476 Palbricks (scratchbuilds) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=2009386 Pipe (Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=959459 PO steel slope-sided mineral (Parkside) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1726213 RCH minerals (Slaters, Cambrian) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1985566 Shockvan (BR plywood type, lot 3117, Rumney Models chassis) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1580684 SR dia. 1599 Borail - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-terrier-travails-5-nosejob/page-28#entry2241498 SR dia. 1375 – http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1366077 SR Lowmac dia 1681 (Lowmac SD, scratchbuild) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-mk-1-undergubbins-Bachmann-sk/?p=2081714 SR pent roof van - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-an-early-lms-brake-m806/&amp;do=findComment&amp;comment=1001962 SR Shock Open - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=797887 Trestrol AD in etched brass (Macgeordie kit) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-making-the-most-of-magazine-freebies-gw-v23/&amp;do=findComment&amp;comment=2036080 Warwell to Bogie Bolster B (Oxford Rail) http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-warwell-to-bogie-bolster-b-1/page-38#entry2925352 COIL WAGONS Tinplate Coils (scratchbuilds): Coil H (using an AMBIS chassis etch) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-an-early-lms-brake-m806/&amp;tab=comments#comment-774342 Coil R (using Rumney Models Bobol E detailing etch) - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1783907 WIRE/ROD COILS Coil S (scratchbuilds) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1506769 STRIP COILS Coil C - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1747030 Coil Js – http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1106292 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1755131 dmsmith’s Coil Js - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1221767 Coil K - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=938034 Dia. 1/403 (Rumney Models, bogie strip coil) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1230476 Merthyr Vale, Landsale Scratchbuilt weighbridge hut (Merthyr Vale colliery) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-coil-rs-bogie-tinplate-coil-wagons-lettered-by-railtec/?p=2073268 SUNDRIES 66xx (Bachmann regauged) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1401438 6999, Capel Dewi Hall (Bachmann regauged) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-flatpack-palbricks-side-sheets/?p=2176047 AEC Mercury - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=810422 Bedford Lomas Ambulance (Oxford Diecast) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-alphabet-soup-2-sja-bedford-j/?p=2416000 Bachmann Warship, D 824 Highflyer - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1791143 Brighton Terrier (Branchlines/Comet chassis) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1665332 Fordson Thames E3 (A 4x4 military ambulance, x 2) http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-mk-1- undergubbins-Bachmann-sk/?p=2081714 Fordson N (Flightpath kit) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-evening-standard-fordson/?p=3197652 LMS standard signal box (Ratio and scratchbuilt) - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-lineside-snaps/?p=2623619 NBL 0-4-0DH - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1642602 Small petrol store (breezeblock hut): http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-canal-junction-cabin-finished/?p=2840988 Styrene springs - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-complete/?p=2134199 Tanker catwalks - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1322055 Wagon hoods - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-trestrol-part-4/?p=1874952 Wheel arches/mudguards: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-wagon-towing-machine-6999-capel-dewi-hall/page-27#entry2176291 Here begins the thread proper: [attachment=397830:Minfit13.gif] A long time ago (over a year in fact) I reported progress on a - mostly - scratchbuilt Shochood B which stalled pending thonghts on how to tackle the hood. In the end, I took a look at what the military modellers do - since tarpaulins turn up on softskins all the time - and used Miliput for the ends and tissue over a former for the remainder. The tarp's on these vehicles were tailored to fit neatly over the top and were always with the wagon which carried branding to that effect. here it is, painted and partly lettered. I'll have to see what dad's old Woodhead sheets have on them to finish the job: the HMRS sheets I have are utterly useless in this regard being without even a suitable selection of tare weights. [attachment=98684:Shochood2.gif] [attachment=98683:Shochoodend.gif] More on the blog... Adam
  8. I have struggled to find detailing kits for my DMU stock for some time. I had underestimated how hard it would be to make simple updates to affordable models (those were teh days it seems). I recall using Howes bufferbeam details to upgrade my Lima locos as a teenager back in the 90s. Anyway, it seems craftsman kits and the like are well out of business and being unable to find Heljan sprues from the DPU 128 model i set about making my own. I used .8 and .5mm brass wire for the vac pipes etc. The jumper cables were fuse wire as it is more malleable, easier to create the hanging look. The sockets and plugs are made from plastikard rod. Here i used Lanarkshire vac pipes and Smiths screw link coupling. I am pleased with the overall effect but mourn the passing of the days when upgrading seemed so much easier!! cheers for now.
  9. I went to a place called Calke Abbey in Derbyshire and one of the stable buildings there reminded me of an engine shed. Not long after, I was given my E4 tank loco and some wagons. I decided that, given I had no previous knowledge in O gauge modelling, I would build a single stretch of unpowered track to practice my modelling skills before even attempting to build my main layout ‘Castle Rock’. I used an engine shed style idea and was reminded of the stable building in Calke Abbey that looked like an engine shed, therefore I used its appearance as a base for the photo diorama. It will feature inset track, working lights in the building and the doors will also work. So far the track is stuck down and I have began the first layer of the inset track which is made of cork sheets. The next layer will probably also be cork if I haven’t found another material to use by the time. The next layer will also be much more finely cut than the first layer, since it is the surface of the inset track. I plan on building the main building soon. Scratch building isn’t my specialty but this is only a practice for projects to come. (the photo attached is of the first layer of cork for the inset track. The bits above that are representing the next layer and are not stuck down. The second photo is the stable building in Calke Abbey that I am basing the surrounding building on)
  10. I am new to railway modelling but I have an interest in art and design. I’m hoping to make a freelance minimum gauge model railway and I’ve recently found a few pictures of the amazing models which g iliffe stokes made. They’re similar to my artwork and ideas but unfortunately the book he wrote and was published by Peco Publications is long out of print and highly priced on Amazon. I hope to find a copy one day but any help will be greatly appreciated, I designed a model railway 10 years ago called Horsecombe but if I actually built it it would be very different.
  11. Hi folks, I thought I would start a blog over here as opposed to the usual blog area. I enjoy kit building and bashing, weathering and general model making. I have a small layout, Templefield which is based around 1970 in West London Area on western metals. Having posted in the wrong forum, i have moved a blog about an LMS brake van over to modifying RTR. Here I will detail some actual kits i have built!!
  12. Seems fitting to make my New Years Resolution this year to be more proactive here on RMweb so I've started a thread on my workbench. So, on the eve of January the first 2020, I present the opening of this thread with... you guessed it, what's on the bench! So, as can be seen below I have five wagons on my bench tonight, these being a BDA bolster, MHA, ZCV, JZA and Porpoise. The bolster is undergoing the butchers knife for conversion into an under-sized Salmon flat before being given panel supports and transformed into an Osprey. With Cambrian's Salmons becoming rarer by the day and not having the time nor patience and money to hunt down and purchase the last one from half a dozen stockists, it was much easier to buy the next closest model. The ASF bogies for the salmons, another kit by Cambrian, I was lucky to get hold of six pairs from three different retailers. It was then that I opted for the butchery approach. The finished models look the part and its hardly noticed that they are 20mm or so short. The Coalfish and Clam are new in as of a New Years Eve delivery, weathered and rusted throughout the first afternoon of the year (though only one side of the ZCV has been done so far). Another 6 MHA's to weather before deciding whether I fancy a couple more. Now for the special cases and YouTube celebrities, the JZA and Porpoise. Porpoise has been on the bench for four months at the time of writing and is 90% of the way there. All I will say is that it looks like a beauty but in actual fact it is the devil. I will write up another post in the near future going into more depth about the build, but I think I've lost count of how many problems I've created just to make it accurate. For starters just to make the chutes I balls-d up the coupling bar swivel limits. All fun and games lol. Then the JZA, that's the simpler of the two with custom manufactured steel mesh and plasticard being the main additions to the ready to run model. For both units I used ready to run models as bases, though its safe to say ill never attempt it all again upon final completion of the whole RDT set. Updates ill be either weekly or when something worth sharing gets done, Jordan
  13. Hi folks, I've not posted in this forum before, although I do have a thread in the layout topics forum for my oo gauge modern image layout 'Sevenoaks'. A few weeks ago I embarked on a project to scratch build some new rolling stock for the layout. As I'm quite fascinated by the new Class 700 Thameslink EMUs built by Siemens, I set about trying to find drawings and photographs online, and from that I've devised a method for producing the bodyshells using both 3d printing and scratchbuilding techniques. The idea is to get the components together for the leading coach and test the concept, and if the parts go together ok I'm hoping to put together a 6 coach train (the normal 8 coach formation is too long for my layout). Attached a few pics of the progress - the cad work for the leading coach is pretty much done now, but I am waiting for couplings and wheels to arrive in order to confirm some clearances. Firstly an exploded view of the components. The bits not being 3d printed are shown in light grey. All the coloured bits are to be 3d printed. The basic method will be to use formers at various intervals that are joined length wise using brass/aluminium rod for rigidity. On top of this framework there will be an outer skin of 0.5mm styrene that is preformed to the shape of the formers, and with the window and door apertures cut out. There are three reasons for using this method, which are: 1. It helps to maintain accuracy over large dimensions 2. It would be too expensive to 3d print complete body shells 3. The use of styrene skin means that a good crisp definition can be attained for the window and door recesses Overall view of the assembled model. Level crossing view Close up view of some of the underframe detail Close up of cab front view Head on view Rear view showing wide corridor connection. I hope to use a close coupling system similar to that used by Bachmann for their S-stock model. Close up view of the bogie assembly. Progress so far is that the formers and cab (pink parts), underframe detail (red parts) and coupler (yellow) are on order from Shapeways. The chassis part (blue) is on hold as I'm waiting for coupling parts that might change the design. Similarly with the bogies, I'm waiting for wheels and bushes to arrive so I can finalise the clearances and slots for those. That's it for now - this is the first time I've embarked on a project of this scale so I don't know how it's going to go, but I'm enjoying it so far nonetheless! I'll be really grateful for any pointers or advice from more experienced scratchbuilders and 3d printing professionals out there. Many thanks, Tim
  14. These wagons, designated Coil S, were converted from pre-nationalisation and early BR built wooden-bodied Highs some time in the very late '60s or early '70s - I'm not sure precisely when - and are the kind of prototype I like: relatively obscure, but interesting conversions of 'ordinary' wagons that might be seen in pairs or threes without shouting 'oddity', or, moreover, stand much of a chance of turning up in kit form. They also lend themselves to batch production, though the 'batch', in this instance includes another three 'traditional wagons' of different types (a shock open, a fruit van and a china clay wagon, more of which anon), of different types because it's simply more time efficient to do them in that way. Intial assembly, brakegear, solebar detailing, capping irons, etc. are more easily done on four wagons at one go as individually and take only a little more time: rather than wait for the solvent to go off, you can do the same job to another two wagons and have more to show per modelling session. A couple of Parkside underframes, ABS buffers and brakegear with Masokits levers and vees make for a reasonably conventional starting point, but they present some interesting challenges to model as the pictures on Paul Bartlett's site* should demonstrate. The nature of these conversions means that there are a host of small detail differences which makes them fun to do, whilst retaining the advantages of batch production. The first is based on an LNER open: The second is based on this ex-SR example: http://paulbartlett....c3d7d#h337c3d7d The side raves will be knocked up from brass (the real things were steel section) which will go some way towards reinforcing the ends as will a load: a few metres of soft iron wire should do it... Adam *without which this sort of thing would not be possible. Thanks again Paul.
  15. In my first post on this blog I wrote: "I'm just a very slow worker... I'm kind of hoping that writing this might encourage me to get on a bit more". Well, just over a year to construct one wagon wasn't precisely what I had in mind but the IHA is, nevertheless, as finished as it's going to be for the foreseeable future. It isn't truly finished. I still need to add the eight hooks that hold the hood closed: I'll be getting these etched in due course. I need enough for four wagons so I'll need to do some research into whether that will be an entire etched sheet on its own, or if I could fit some other bits in, or what. The wagon also needs painting, of course, and it's sans couplers until I decide what type to fit. Still, right now it's sitting on its little length of Peco set-track, looking pretty much done. It isn't perfect: it's a tad too tall, the ends aren't quite square, there are a couple of other things that I'll iron out when I make the rest of my planned fleet. I would be lying, though, if I said I was anything other than extremely happy with how it looks. Off the top of my head, I can't remember feeling this pleased with a wagon that I've built from scratch. The Credits: Wheels and bogies - ATM Models Ferry cleats, lashing rings and end platforms - TPM (ref. 1809) Buffers - TPM (ref. 1806A) Finished wagon between two Farish BYAs for comparison: Platform end: Non-platform end (don't know what went awry with the colour balance here, I'm afraid): Getting this done has given me quite a fillip, so I'm hoping to make some more progress on a couple of other projects in the next couple of days. More on that as things develop. Jim
  16. A bit of an update on the waggon today, end ribs, hinges, door handles and brake wheels have been added. Once the glue is dry I can get on with forming the roof, and then painting can begin. Thanks for looking J
  17. Using standard chassis spacers for OO gauge (eg Comet) seems to leave a huge void behind Gibson wheels and getting the right number of washers is a real pain, especially as Gibsons don't like being continually removed and reattached. I found a calculator for the sideplay needed over a fixed wheelbase and this seemed to indicate I could use wider spacers as my minimum radius is 3ft. However, I've end up with one 0-6-0 that is very unhappy with these curves and another where I seem to shift between to much sideplay on the front axle and jamming the thing up. I am putting the sideplay on the centre axle of a six-coupled, driving the rear axle and trying to prevent the front axle wandering around much. I think I'd like to scrap the calculations and the theory and hear what others have achieved in practice. I think the difference in the sideplay required between, say, a Midland 16'6" (66mm) wheeelbase and a Caley tank's 13' (52mm) is not going to be much of an issue, more important, I would have thought, is the minimum radius to be negotiated on the layout. With 3ft minimum radius what overall width should I look for on the frames with Gibsons and what thickness of washer should I be using on the front and rear to allow sufficient sideplay without inducing duck-like running. Thanks in anticipation.
  18. At my last count, I have 8 models 'in progress' which I reckon is 7 too many. When I look at them, the majority have stalled at the painting stage or rather lack of painting. There has been much displacement activity - books bought, airbrushes obtained, spray booth acquired, this forum post etc - but very little activity. I suppose if I'm honest it's because I'm a bit scared of 'spoiling' a model. The sort of questions I have relate to what many must take as basic knowledge - of which I have little/none in this field. So hear goes. Questions Should I paint bits ' as I go' or finish the kit and then paint, knowing that I will have to disassemble or mask bits? What primer should I use. Having primed, is it ok to go back and fill in any little holes that then seem to magically appear, with Milliput or similar and then prime again? How many coats? What top coat and how many? Varnish - a good idea? Klear seems to be mentioned in old magazines but seems unavailable nowadays - what to use instead? Are there really no rules at all & should I just 'have a go and see'? Thoughts ( not answers ) To me it would seem to be best to paint as I go but I look at some of the beautiful kits some of you guys make and they seem to remain unpainted until the last moment. Painting as you go which I have tried a bit, seems to result in the paint suffering along proud edges and corners with the shine of metal starting to come through. This may be down to incorrect priming? For brass kits much talk is of etching primer which I think is horrid stuff to use (smell), many seem to swear by Halfords Primer. For plastic kits, do you need to bother priming at all as most kits are pre-coloured. Is one coat enough? Should I keep going until everything is covered even though this may lead to loss of detail? I realise everyone will probably have their favourite brand, but there seems to be a choice these days between enamel and acrylic. Assuming I'm hoping to airbrush in the main, does either one have particular merit. Ok, everything must be cleaned first, I know but after that? I realise I'm probably opening the proverbial can here but thanks for reading this far and I'm open to all constructive suggestions. Brian
  19. I have been looking for some suitable pre-railway age buildings to provide a low relief backdrop for a small layout that I am working on. I have discovered this site, which illustrates the right sort of atmosphere and includes this picture (old houses in Greys Inn Road, top row 4th from left) and this one (old houses in Bermondsey Street, 15th row 2nd from left) which show the sort of buildings that fit my scenario. The caption to the latter mentions that timber framed buildings were "...... often out of shape and leaning in all directions....". My understanding is that medieval and tudor buildings were normally constructed as self contained buildings - even though crammed together so that the structure occupied the whole frontage of the building plot. In these circumstances, I can imagine that the individual structures would indeed be leaning in all directions. However, the two pictures linked above seem to show something more like a terrace, where a series of buildings have been constructed to a common design. Were buildings like this actually built around a common framework - in which case, presumably, the individual houses could hardly be leaning a different way to the rest of the terrace - or are we looking at a series of self-contained, freestanding buildings to a common pattern? Grateful for any help from the collective wisdom of RM Web! Best wishes Eric
  20. I need some clerestory coaches for my circa 1928-30 Welsh Valleys layout. I picked up a couple of second hand Hornby ones (the new long ones not the old triang type) and I know 247 developments do replacement sides. Does anyone have any experience of these or how much work is involved . The roof/sides look to be a single moulding but the ends appear separate so they look a good starting point:) . Any advice gratefully recieved,I couldn't find anything on here using the search but I've read most of Coachman's threads. Hoping to start on them in the New Year. Adrian.
  21. Adam

    Backhead

    Just a quickie from the ongoing (painfully slow at the mo') Austerity project. A new, scratch-built backhead from scraps of plastic, brass wire, fuse wire, copper wire, bits of scrap etch and some etched details (Mainly Trains regulator handle, London Road Models handwheels). The funny looking gauge glasses are copied from here: http://janford.fpic..../p50833431.html There should be a few more bits of pipework but in the depths of the cab and with a crew in the way, what's there will be enough to suggest what isn't. Adam
  22. I've long held the desire to scratch build locomotives. Until recently I've doubted my abilities, however having now assembled a few locos and rolling stock kits I feel I'm ready to take the plunge. In order to double my chances (of success? ) I am going to attempt 2 builds, one 7mm and one 2mm. The 7mm build will be documented here and will be a LNWR Chopper 2-4-0t. My intention is to build an example as operating in the Buxton area around 1890, so circular smokebox door and enclosed cab but with condensing pipes still fitted, wooden brakes and no coal rails. I am going to build 2278 newly built in 1887 which went on to be the last of the class, withdrawn in 1952. I have a vague plan to build the loco at the its life at some point in the future. I like the idea of having a model at both ends of its life. I am going to use the drawings from "an Illustrated History of LNWR Locos" by Ted Talbot and the plans published in Modelling Railways Illustrated February 1995. As with the 2mm build I have the brass and Nickel silver ready to cut but have still to source the wheels (Slaters) fittings (various sources, Laurie Griffen and Hobby Horse being the main suppliers) and motor and gearbox. All I have to now is remember which build goes in which topic. Any bets on which post I get them confused?
  23. Hi all, As you know, I've been making model buildings for a few years now, mostly grotty ones and some with additional features..... I'd like to announce that I'm now offering a bespoke building, building service, mainly in 4mm, and also in 2mm or 7mm if required. Please take a look at my website and if there is anything you'd like building, please ask ! Cheers Stu www.stubby47.co.uk
  24. Hi all, anybody that's seen Boldon Junction or its replacement Coppell out and about has probably seen this and her two sisters passing by, behind a pair of ''nuclear peds'' of course - One of three (out of the nine prototypes) 101 ton, four bogie, import/export flask carriers. They were used mainly between Barrow-in-Furness docks and Sellafield. Now I would like to build a fourth model of one of these but I'm struggling to source the bogie's. The first three are fitted with Appleby (is that the correct spelling?) Models white metal kits which are no longer available. So before I stick a post in the wanted section to see if anybody has some spare, I'd like to confirm the correct name for them - I believe they are Sambre et Meuse cast steel Y25CSNM, but there is also the very similar looking Sambre et Meuse VNH1! Are these the latest version perhaps? Inter-City models don't seem to have them in their range, are there any alternatives out there? I promise a blow by blow account of the build, then again, that might put people off! Thanks for looking, Kev,
  25. Space is limited on the spit, hence the lack of a run-around loop; but the more pressing issue was the lack of room for a headshunt. Due to the soft foundations at this end of the spit, it was felt that a wooden trestle would be the best option; with long piles driven down into the sand until they hit a firm foundation. In the lines original guise as a construction railway for the lighthouse in the early 1850s, a temporary short line was built from the little harbour to the foreshore. Once the headshunt trestle was built, this would eventually be extended, and linked up with the rest of the railway; forming what we see today. Designs were soon drafted up for the trestle... Above: In reality, the wooden jetty would need to look relatively substantial, but not so much that it defied the light railway idea. Trestles aren't exactly common in the UK, but after some research online I came up with what I thought was a plausible design. In the end, I totally forgot to extend the crossbars to allow for outer supports for the handrail, so the finished model looks a little wobbly in this regard. That said, I think it works with the whole bare-necessities approach of the SSLR! Above: The main timber baulks were actually cut from balsa, as I needed some relatively large pieces. Whilst I cut these with the same hand-held guillotine shown in previous entries, I would recommend cutting these with a little hacksaw or similar, as the soft nature of the balsa meant it was squashed more easily than it was cut; particularly on thicker sections. Note the trackpins used to represent bolt heads; a much better use for them than pinning down track, in my opinion! Above: With the basic trestle supports fabricated (and awaiting their pins to be cut to length), I tested out the construction by balancing it under the ply trackbed. It looked OK, but I realised that the ply trackbed would have to go, as well as the plastic webbing between the sleepers; as they would both be too obvious from both below and above. Above: With the trackbed cut away, a re-evaluation showed that the timber beams that would support the track were too far apart, so it was back to the design board... Above: The redesign saw the central post replaced with two instead; which allowed an additional longitudinal beam for the rail to sit directly on top of. Above & below: Now that the trestle supports were in place, the locations of the extra long sleepers could be marked onto the longitudinal beams, and the sleepers cut from lollipop sticks. There were then glued in place with PVA, and left to cure overnight. Above: With all the componets fabricated (excluding the handrails), it was time to tackle the painting stage. This was done before any of the other wooden structures on the layout, so at this point I had absolutely no clue what I was doing. As such, the first piece to be painted was the support pictured; this being the one that will be barely visible from most angles, as it will be sat under the far end of the bridge, half-buried in sand. Above: The comparison between painted and unpainted is stark, and for a first attempt I was amazed at the results of a bit of experimentation! Before this point, I was not really one for experimentation, but this proved to me that everyone is right, and that I shouldn't be afraid to experiment with new techniques. As this was my first go, I didn't photograph the various steps, but I believe it to be similar to my later structures; a wash of gunmetal grey, a wash of a mix of dark sand and gunmetal grey, and then a thicker application of the two; along with extra washes/dry brushes of additional colours to weather it. Above: Pleased with the painting, work cracked on to produce the rest of the components for the trestle; namely the walkway and handrail. There had been one attempt at a handrail by this point, but it was too chunky, so I elected to start afresh. The components for the handrail are top right, the walkway; top left. As you'd expect, these are all finely-chopped lengths of lollipop stick. Above: After a while, all the planks were made, and glued into place; with some having bits broken off to add a bit of visual interest, and to help convey that tatty low-maintenance approach that the railway has! Above: Of course, I couldn't leave the railway without a way to prevent a perilous over-running at the end of the line, so a buffer stop was needed! I figured that there would be a need for a pretty substantial buffer stop, so in order to prevent runaways from entering the cold sea (i.e. preventing a disaster at exhibitions!), one was formed in a similar way to the trestle supports. Two large baulks of timber would form a sort of buttress at the end of the trestle, with a buffer stop located on the top of these beams. As you can see, plenty of cross-bracing was added from chopped up lollipop stick. Above: Which left just one more thing to do; assemble it all, and bury the supports into the sand dune/sea! Other Wooden Structures It's not just the headshunt trestle that was made from balsa and lollipop sticks, and indeed, we've seen previously how the waiting shelter, grounded carriage, and grounded van were made. In fact, there are still plenty of other wooden structures on the layout made in the same way; so let's take a quick tour of some of them... Above: By now, I'm starting to sound like a broken record; yes, those are more finely chopped lollipop sticks, along with 4 additonal balsa square sections... but what will it become? Above: The answer is a small wooden jetty for the pond! What's great about these small wooden structures is that they take such a small amount of time to make, but add a lot to bring life to the layout. Worth noting is that the deck (the planked section and its three supports) were not glued on until everything around it was complete; that includes the sand dunes, the vegetation, and the water. This meant I didn't have any problems accessing the area underneath the little jetty. Of course, this will be painted in the same way as all of the other wooden structures. Above: And out comes the guillotine cutter once more! Yes, yet another lollipop stick is being cut to length. You'd think I'd have run out long ago, but the box I bought over 10 years ago is still half-full! These bits are actually destined to become part of the wooden groyne that will sit at the front of the layout. Above: This time though, I needed wide lengths that would be slightly thinner than the lollipop sticks themselves. This was easily achieved by sanding each length down with the sanding attachment on the Dremel. Note the vacuum hose (that has been turned on) on the left being held against the table by my leg; so that I create as little mess as possible! Above: As I will be modelling a somewhat wave-battered and decaying groyne, the components required extensive distressing. The uneven sanding is one way, but note how one length has been split into two, and two others have a slit in them; created with a cutting disc in the dremel. Above: Then comes the fun part; using a wire brush attachmenet in the Dremel, lines were scraped into the wooden lengths, concentrating heavily around the edges, and the areas around the holes. This creates a really nice pitted effect, and helps bring out the grain of the wood substantially... Above: ... the difference is quite prominent between the before and after! Above: The same was done to the balsa uprights; in fact, being soft, it was really easy to create some really extreme weathering with these; the tops of the posts being significantly damaged. The whole lot was asembled with glue, with track pins once again used to represent bolts. Above: Painting was the standard technique, with severely damaged areas having darker patches, and less-damaged areas having a slight sunbleached effect of drybrushed white/light grey. Above: Holes were formed in the beach for the groyne to sit into, and the beach was raised on one side of the groyne with a polystyrene layer. Clay was used to cover the whole lot, including surrounding the bottom to hide any gaps, and also to suggest sand that had spilled through the holes. Above: To finish off the look, the bottom of the groyne was further weathered with a drybrush of green paint, and seaweed applied. The seaweed was made from old scatter mixed with green paint and then applied with PVA; I'll show this in more detail in another blog entry! And there we have it; another bumper blog entry. Believe it or not, there are still some other wooden structures, but I don't think there is much more that can be explained that isn't documented here! As always, I hope you have enjoyed this blog entry, and please do rate it, like it, or comment on it; I like to know that people are finding these entries useful, and if not, how I can improve them. If there is something particular that you want to see next, I will prioritise it. I suspect I ought to talk about the sand dunes and landforms next time, as a lot of photos have shown them already! Till next time, Jam/Jamie Warne
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.