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Found 28 results

  1. I bought an N20 motor a couple of weeks ago, along with a pair of 3D printed gears to fit 1/8" axles & the N20. My original thought was to fit it to this small LNER tank I picked up at an estate sale; While the motor would probably fit, it won't fit between the frames. Which means needs to angle into the boiler. Which hasn't enough space. Playing around with the brass chassis, I think it was made undersized. The chassis will 'walk' on my test plank. I need to see if I can spread the frames some. Hopefully, if I can drop the motor into the frame, this'll all work. I might use the N20 on another project, though.
  2. Now that the (apparent) rush with the blog is over a more sedate and relaxed pace will be the order of the day, but I mustn't allow lethargy to take control. So, in the spirit of showing that the lock down protocol hasn't resulted in me wandering about the house all day dressed in my slippers and dressing gown (what a terrible image, sorry , and I don't even own any slippers), there's been some progress on the SE Finecast I3 kit. I've rebuilt the chassis now with some new parts sourced from 'Finecast. It became apparent when making a more detailed inventory of bits and pieces that I had lost some of the kit. Nothing big, just from nuts and bolts, stuff for the electrical pickup, that sort of thing. I have absolutely no idea where they could have gone to, but given how long it was stored for anything could have happened. Unfortunately (for me) that meant I needed to contact 'Finecast and request some missing bits, and that mean that I accidentally (honest gov', he made me do it) bought one of their SR 0-4-2 D1 kits . The chassis is far from complete, but rather than ploughing on I thought it sensible to make absolutely sure I had the chassis and wheels sorted and rolling smoothly before adding details. The result was this: Two key elements were causing trouble at this point. Naturally the coupled wheels were spinning fine independently but wouldn't when coupled, and the bogie (being so light) wouldn't stay on the rails on the tighter curves. The cause of the first problem is no revelation, and neither was the solution (well most of it). Using the broaches that I do have I have I eased the bearings in the chassis just a bit more, and then progressively did the same on the ends of the coupling rods. This I did with the coupling rods back-to-back to make as sure as I possibly could that they stayed the same length, even if it wasn't exactly the right length. The other thing I did was tie the two halves of the compensation arms/levers together. It can be seen as the slightly off-square bar just behind the front driving axle in the following picture: The compensation still allows the driving axles to rise and fall a couple of millimeters, but has stopped a possible twisting motion laterally. It was fiddly, but was this necessary? I don't know, but as far as I can see the driving axles cannot now move further apart through the motion of the compensation, and so this ought to maintain smoother running while still allowing the chassis the best chance of keeping its wheels on the track. Time will tell. The bar was placed there as the gearbox fills in the equivalent space around the rear axle and effectively keeps that under control, but the front axle bearings were free to move laterally along the axle so this seemed like the obvious place to add some rigidity. As for the leading bogie, a spare spring from a three link coupling kit has been donated to the cause, and after trimming has been installed over the bolt between the chassis cross bar and the bogie itself. Thanks to Martins' suggestion on Monday nights club call for that one. As is not uncommon for me I'd missed the obvious solution and was caught up in trying to work out how to make something out of some springy wire . The spring is too strong for an unladen chassis (even cut down), but once all that white metal added then this should resolve itself. It's easy enough to tune later. I've also started working on the body of the kit for a few reasons: I need the weight on the chassis to enable some testing etc.. I might need to trim the motor shaft and also create some restraint for the motor (given that it rises and falls with the driven wheels) I also need to see where I can run wires and place a DCC decoder (probably the bunker) So here I am starting to piece together the major components of the body: Finally, the D1 kit: This goes onto the shelf for the time being, but I have been wanting one of these for the layout for a while now. It fits nicely into the period and concept of the layout, so much so that I might even need two ... Jeff [Edit: just to sort out the typing and phrasing]
  3. There's nobody coming round, and I can't get to the club, so I have decided the time is right to start on my first whitemetal loco kit build. This is an H0 model of the Deutsche Bundesbahn BR V36 (later BR 236), a three-axle, 360hp diesel-hydraulic shunter that was originally ordered for the German Army in the second world war and proved to be a (rough and ready) survivor, with examples travelling beyond Europe and remaining in use for several decades. It is a Weinert kit, manufactured about 25 years ago and bought second hand a while back, though it is still in the current Weinert catalogue (article number 0024). I'm guided by the excellent build report written by Steph Dale 14 years ago and there's no point in me adding rookie comments; his experience comes through clearly. What I do want to record is how straightforward and gratifying it has been to solder the main parts together. Weinert's instructions recommend gluing everything. As Steph reported, the way things fit together shows that gluing was probbaly the intended construction method (and not just a recommendation). But with a realtively fine-bit soldering iron at 230C, some liquid flux and a litle 100C solder, it is remarkably easy to get a nice seam of solder along the joins between largish parts like the bonnet sides and top. By the way, the swooshes of darker colour are some discolouration or impurity in the metal, not where I've been splashing liquid around. This is the inside of the bonnet and you can see I've managed a pretty neat seam along the join between the radiator at the left end and the side panel. There's a little spot I have missed towards the right hand end of the join between the side panel and the top. The right hand piece is the front cab bulkhead which is loosely fitted to help locate the bonnet panels. Here's the outside showing the same side and the radiator end along with the top. All pretty clean and tidy. The step between the back of the radiator and the roof is negligible in reality. The reasons everything is going well so far seem to me: Well designed parts Nicely cast, so although like anything cast in whitemetal there is a bit of bowing this can be easily straightened out by very gently bending between the fingers and offering up to a straight edge And on my part, taking plenty of time to carefully remove the very modest amount of flash on the mouldings, to offer things up, to look at the fit and true of things, and then to check again. Here's a trial fit of the frames, bufferbeams and running board. The wheels, jackshaft, coupling rods, gears, motor and pickup come ready-mounted to the inner chassis (black), so in this kit there is no pressure to get the chassis running properly. So far so good. As a beginner, I think this is what you want from a kit project. Not terrifyingly complex, but a challenge that seems achieveable. Since returning to the hobby, I've been gradually investigating the skills and techniques I remember reading about as a kid. I can't magically acquire skills I didn't have then, but I do have a bit more patience nowadays so I'm in with a chance. And I'm looking forward to the rest of the build. NB for anyone interested in building this kit, the instructions are naturally enough in German. There are British equivalent kits -- Britain really being the home of the whitemetal model railway kit -- but I happened to want to build a loco in line with my current German H0 interests, and I wanted to try a Weinert kit. And finally, it's worth knowing that a British whitemetal kit at list price will cost you less than a Weinert one. The feature photo is V36 211, built by BMAG in Berlin in 1942, photographed at the Bavarian Railway Museum (BEM) Nördlingen in June 2019.
  4. Hello everyone, So its been a few years since i posted anything in here, not sure where the time has gone but in the current sitiuation thats across the world I thought it was about time I started posting again. So whats been happening, lots is the easiest answer and I will cover the details in future posts. The plan is to bring you all up todate (well those that want to know and read ) by posting up the latest items that im working/worked on and mix in some of the items ive done over the past few years that you havent seen unless you follow me on the various social media channels that i post too. So first up and something that was recently completed is the DJH LBSCR/SR/BR class C2X 0-6-0
  5. This is a request for help with a mystery model I've acquired, Class 48xx, no top-feed, assembled from white-metal parts and with a modest 4 wheel fixed chassis. Never having ventured beyond the relative safe areas of RTR this is a complete puzzle as there are no obvious makers marks to be seen. Given the basic nature of the chassis, the natural thing to do is build a High Level kit but limitations in my skills and resources to name just two rule this out for me. Aside from the obvious need for a number change, helpful inputs and suggestions will appreciated. Colin
  6. Hello all. Looking to buy up to 4. Ideally unstarted kits, but would consider made up. I have surplus modern image locos that maybe we could swap, e.g. Bachmann DRS class 57 Please PM if able to help Thanks in advance
  7. Well, I've managed to sort out my issues with the white metal kit. Also contacted Mr Alexander (twice as I relaised there were a few more bits missi9ng I hadn't noticed before) and on both occasions he was very helpful and issued the missing parts. Top service Anyway, I have rectified the wonky issue by filling at the axel holes and had a bit of a struggle desopldering and fettling the offensive part but it is not visably noticable now. Also I'm umming and arrhing to use some Bachmann tender wheels or the ones I was supplied with. The main reason being I don't think J39's had spoke wheels. Anyway So far I have filled in some noticle imperfections with the castings and sanded them down and now I have added some of the brass bits such as tender steps, handrail knobs and brake standards etc etc. I will add some hand rails later and then it should be ready for priming. I'm going to leave the buffers, air reserviour tanks and the tool/store boxes until at least the model is painted/weathered.
  8. Dear all, Having seen nucast kits appear on ebay from time to time, and heard that the castings are of good quality, I was wondering how accurate the kits are? Obviously the solid brass chassis are crude, but above the footplate how good are they? For example, how accurate is the nucast kit for the NER T2/LNER Q5 Regards and wishing you all a merry xmas drduncan
  9. Hi all, I thought I'd try something quick and easy as a bit of light relief from scratchbuilding various things. I bought a whitemetal kit of an LSWR 15t stone wagon and it arrived yesterday. So far it has taken 2 hours to clean up the parts, and 2.5 hours to get it to the point in the photos below. I think from this point on I'll use glue rather than solder, all the remaining bits look too easy to melt! I've never built a white metal kit before. It's certainly quicker than building from an etched kit. I've only done two etched kits, a roughly equivalent wagon and the MW 0-6-0, but they both took much longer. The etched wagon was in a different class, detail- and quality-wise, but it also cost twice as much and took a whole lot longer. It was certainly more than twice the kit though. The MW kit was a dog, thick brass, dodgy chassis design, and very hard to build. I was quite apprehensive about soldering white metal but starting on the biggest bits with a 25w iron avoided any major disasters and it was quite nice being able to hold things together with fingers while soldering. By the end I was pretty confident I wasn't going to melt anything, but I was still careful to keep the iron on the biggest bits of whatever I was soldering. The downsides to this kit are that it only comes with parts to build a rigid, unsprung, chassis (W-irons soldered to the side/solebar castings), and comparatively primitive brake-gear, although it's better than what I could scratch-build. And one brake lever bracket and one V hanger came broken, so it's only getting brakes on one side making it an early wagon. Can anyone recommend a Humbrol colour to represent LWSR goods wagon brown? Also, any advice on where can I get transfers for the lettering and numbering? Doing it by hand is way beyond my abilities. Regards, David.
  10. Hello All PLEASE SEE CHANGE OF THREAD TITLE - MOST OF WHAT APPEARS BELOW WAS WRITTEN BEFORE SOME PEOPLE KINDLY PROVIDED THIS INFO - Many thanks to them. Schlieren bogies, of the type I need, were used under the earlier 102t TEA bogie tanks and under most of the Sheerness Steel 102t bogie scrap wagons, and possibly on others of which I am not aware. The only current supplier of these, in 00/4mm, is Colin Craig, but as brass etch kits, well beyond my skills, and only of infrequent availability (so far). I have been spectacularly unsuccessful in obtaining early TEA's with the right bogies, through ebay or second hand dealers. Having obtained some drawings, at long last, I am having a batch made as white metal kits in 00 gauge, minus wheels, axles, fixing bolt to chassis and tensioning bar, all easily obtainable elsewhere. Cost per bogie is likely to be around £5 to £7 (plus postage), including a share of the original mould cost, but depends on overall number ordered. I guess it would be possible to have some made to EM or P4 gauge, but that would require three of the pieces to have an additional cast, for which you would have to pay the full mould cost. You could just use parts of this kit as cosmetic sides, and the rest is up to you. I am not looking to make a profit on these, but do seek to cover extra costs beyond the number I need. I am doing this in the spirit of sharing opportunities with other modellers and not as a commercial proposition. I do not guarantee absolute accuracy, but the initial trial mock-up looks good enough for me. I will publish photos of the first test outputs, when available probably in late March. If you are interested at all, please indicate here or by PM. I will not hold you to your interest, until we get to final prices and test shots, but it would be nice to know whether others of you have the vaguest interest! Thanks, Mike
  11. This will be a long shot I know, but I wonder if anyone knows if K's kits are still available lurking in some remote small suppliers corner? The two kits I'm most interested in were the Taff Vale 0-4-0 Hudswell Clark and the LMS ex MR 0-4-0. I know the K's range was passed on through various hands after they ceased production, but I wonder if it was absorbed into another manufacturer's range and any stocks remain? Steve
  12. I'm about to embark on my first locomotive kit build and I'm asking a novice question (which may have been covered before!) ... Basically I'm keen to hear from any experienced modellers as to their preferred tools when constructing a brass and whitemetal kits. Specifically I'm keen to hear about the following product combinations Soldering Irons Solder Flux Soldering aids (clamps, stands etc) Once again - your advice is most welcome!
  13. Here is a long stalled rescue mission: a Springside 45xx that must be 25 yrs in the making. This was a pick up on a certain auction site about 18 months ago now at the head of the queue, more or less. The instructions are ancient and yellowed. I think it has tormented previous owners. I think there may have been two builders over the years, the first pretty good and the second a superglue freak. It has some very good features like neat rivets, clean castings, milled frames and lots of weight. It came about 50% built but the problems were:- · Springside wheels horribly wobbly, would never have run on even plain track · Brakes butchered with glue and hangers broken · Steps also smeared with treads in wrong places · Fit of roof and boiler woeful · Roof mangled · Some detail missing inc a buffer · An unbelievably basic motor mount Solutions intended so far are:- · Slaters wheels on order · Brakes and steps can be saved · Boiler now in straight line · New roof to be made · Laurie Griffin to rescue with details, Slaters with buffers · Replacement gearbox Not quite a lost cause, but the bill for bits will approach 100 notes............... It won't ever approach Ozzyo's Mitchell but I hope it will be presentable
  14. I recently aquired a part built Ks kit for a broad gauge rover class loco, and how to motorise this beast eludes me, removing the rear six wheels allows only a small gap of insufficient size to fit any suitable sized motor, I feel I'm going to have to dissasemble the bodywork to some degree, has anybody else experience in motorising this kit?
  15. I'm looking for a recent pricelist from ABS if anybody has one handy in digital form? Thank you Gareth
  16. Holding to my word, where is your weekly update. I have done jack all this week. We got more snow on Tuesday. Tuesday night is also when I need to bring the garbage to the alley for collection Wednesday morning. I handled such chores, and ****ed-off and watched some anime. Monday, though, did bring some progress. Firstly, minor tinkering with the VW. My first attempt at gluing the hubcaps to the wheels failed, so I cleared more chrome plating from the caps, and tried glue at a different spot. Seems to have worked the second time. I'm calling the chassis complete. Now, I pend good weather for painting. I am always waiting on good weather. Damn Chicagoland. Secondly, the army for Infinity is coming along with no real issues. Two more infantry, I believe grunts of some sort. Tonight brought a start to the motorcyclist that comes with the force. I, admittedly, had to seek guidance on this one. One of the parts included made no sense to me. I've used epoxy for the bike, so I won't have an image until next week. Lastly, I've finished another Gundam kit. Ban-Dai's Master Grade 1/100 GM Sniper II. Fun, awesome kit. Snap-fit and precolored don't give these kits credit. The MG kits are effectively build-your-own action figures. You can get in-depth finishing one out to a higher standard still, but I build such things as breaks from cement fumes and brush cleaner. Tune in next week, kids.
  17. I've done more work on the Infinity JSA. This past week was washes & beginning the highlights. The tutorial I'm following suggested color-keyed washes, but I couldn't make much use of them. Everything was washed black instead. I am following the recommendations for highlights, though. I don't know where to start, color-wise, with the woman in the kimono. I am trying to emulate the studio scheme for the models. Corvus Belli painted the kimono in a sort of mint color. I really don't know where to start. The tutorial offers no guidance on the matter, either. Sunday was another of my gunpla club's build days. I began work on a new kit, the Master Grade 1/100 Grey Zeta. Naturally, the thing is orange. Interesting build so far. Which isn't very far. The Zeta is a transforming model, either a robot or a sort-of cross of a F-117 & an F-22. Like the past few gunpla, I'll likely only work on this at the build days. I have too many other projects to devote bench space to this. We'll see where I get with the Infinity next week.
  18. I have pretty much finished painting the crew for the Fairlie. They were undercoated with a flat black spray, then brush painted with Games Workshop acrylic paints. Now they need something to stand in, so I'd best build it! J
  19. The latest 'work-in-progress', well, more completion of outstanding works really is this LNER open. A fairly standard LNER vehicle, derived, I think from a GNR design with a wooden underframe and AVB. In this case - since dad built one years ago - I adapted it with steel channel ends following a David Larkin photo. I'm not sure whether I'll follow the photo and finish it in engineer's olive green or as a traffic vehicle in bauxite. All irrelevant until it gets a bit warmer in any case... For those interested, this shows the AVB as modelled, mostly as ABS intended, but with all the linkages and so on added in wire. Although the wheels are trapped in I don't see that as too much of a problem since whitemetal hasn't got a lot of flex in any case! For plastic kits you might want to model these safety loops prototypically, but this is a real fiddle, for no real benefit in terms of appearance. Note the 5 thou' plastic capping irons and their associated clips, a more or less universal feature on wooden bodies by BR days. Adam
  20. Since it's my namesake it really was about time I started on this Dave Alexander whitemetal kit of the prototype Bo-Bo that later became 'Hawk'. This is for Eridge, since the real thing spent a year or so on the Central Section of the Southern Region in 1952 or thereabouts, and I have photos of it on Victoria-Brighton via Eridge services with a Maunsell set in tow. Last weekend I had the opportunity for a few hours modelling (Jubilee open day at the community hall where DRAG meets) so I thought I'd make a start on 10800. First thing was to remove the lower set of louvres from the main bonnet sides, as these only came along after it left the Southern. No real magic here, just a sharp cabinet maker's chisel of the right width (to avoid surrounding hinge and seam detail) followed by rubbing down with a small piece of wet-and-dry on the end of my finger. (it's aberration on the camera lens, not curved sides!) The main footplate halves were soldered together with the bogie pivot plate, and the cab added. It's a while since I've done any whitemetal soldering, but the castings in this kit are excellent and fit together very well, so filling later will be minimal. There are two versions of the cab sides provided, one pair plain and one with a shutter - I stupidly didn't have any photos with me so I chose the plain sides, this being a better option if I got it wrong than having to carve off the shutters. I did get it wrong, but it will be simple to do a plasticard add-on for the shutters (which will give better relief anyway).
  21. Some of you might have seen my appeal on the forum for information on an ABS Models kit that I bought off Ian Morton at the Mansfield Show. The box states GWR 10 ton 4 plank diagram O.21. It became immediately apparent on opening the box in earnest that this was no 4 plank wagon. What followed was a sometimes lively discussion about what I had bought. But when I sent some photos of the castings to Adrian at ABS he confirmed I had most of a diagram O.23 with Morton brakes. There's a lot of spare bits in the box, but I was missing a few bits (including floor and instructions) that Adrian supplied for a couple of second class stamps So, here's what I have after a week in Superstrip to remove the epoxy glue and caked on old paint Should be a fun build from now as soon as I can dig out the temperature controlled soldering iron that got packed away when we cleared the study to decorate. My only issue is that if it's going to run on Fourgig East it's going to push the modeller's licence as, as far as I know, no O.23 was preserved.
  22. ... or how to insert a rectangular peg into a round hole. I'm building several 4 mm scale whitemetal wagon kits. I'm intending to use 3-link couplings with sprung brass drawhooks. To fit these, I need to open up a blind hole in the headstock to a slot about 2 mm high by 0.5 mm - 0.6 mm wide. Drilling a 0.6 mm hole top and bottom doesn't work out as the existing blind hole causes the bit to drift towards the mid-point. The bodger's method I've used with plastic kits, inserting a craft knife blade and waggling it, is ineffective. Broaches, being designed for rotary motion, are also no good. I think I need some sort of ultra-minature needle file but haven't so far located such a thing on the websites of the usual tool suppliers. Any suggestions gratefully received!
  23. An eBay purchase from last year. I'd always been interested in them from the Walthers catalogues but wasn't brave enough to commit to a Trans-Atlantic purchase with the likelihood of import duty and the possibility of being out of my depth. A box of (daunting) bits. It's designed for gluing only so the assembly sequence follows this basis. I decided that I wanted to solder it and did a fair bit of research, procurement and testing (via an MTK Class 59 test piece - also a bargain buy from eBay. That experience is listed elsewhere on RMWeb) before committing to this kit with it's finer detail. This was good practice as the MTK instructions were limited to say the least and I had to work out my own assembly sequence on the hoof for that one, and hence I've been better prepared for the tamper assembly sequence. The parts are cast in pewter and are very good in comparison to the MTK kit. Initial fit is concise and hasn't needed much fettling. Having said that I'm still learning with the white metal soldering. I've not changed from the MTK kit - 25w iron (as it is - no temperature control), plenty of flux, although I've learnt to be more economical with the solder this time. Despite the finer frame detail, the pewter seems to take the heat better and I've not had any accidents with the metal melting into blobs - that was one of my concerns after a couple of gas axe experiences with the more substantial MTK 59 pieces. This shot shows side, base and some fittings. The control panel has been soldered to the cab wall after joining base and side. I've elected to fit 33" kadees so have cut off the mounting blocks for the kit wheels (bit weedy) and have opened up slots in the floor (two visible in the cab base, plus one at back of unit) so that there is no clash (or short circuit). I've drilled out the axle boxes and fitted 2mm brass top hat bearings that I still have from my youth (4mm Airfix and Cambrian kits....long gone). Top hat bearings mustn't exist in the States? Although it did make soldering of the second side interesting trying to hold wheels, bearings and side all at the same time (The kit wheels aren't pin point and therefore can be fitted at a later stage (after painting?)). Rear view with both slots visible for rear wheel set. The internal bulkhead supports a 'hydraulic tank' detail and I had to support and solder this in before I could solder the second side. There is a rebate in the tank which sits against the internal frame and it won't go in afterwards, so I had to keep checking the fit with the second side before I soldered. I'll sort some pictures out of the basic assembly and post these up over the next week or so. Foxy
  24. Hello folks, A query regarding figures as a new entrant to the world of O-gauge Looking for a diesel driver (standing) and second-man (if appropriate) and shunter (with or without pole) for Dapol 08. I have seen some by Detailed Miniatures (painted) and some by Modelu3d (unpainted) but I wondered whether there were any other alternatives. Ideally, I'd like them pre-painted. Kind regards, Art
  25. I've been exploring some of the smaller and lesser known 4mm whitemetal figure ranges recently. Here's a handful of photos showing a selection of some of them. These are cruel close-ups, but if we're concerned about the details of our stock, shouldn't we be equally concerned about whether the figures look right? Above: This group of horse shunters are from the Geoff Stevens range, which features sets of railway staff that can be used together in little cameos. As evident from the header photo, some of the figures in this range have well sculpted faces. Very often, I think, it is the face that makes or breaks a 4mm figure. Above: No, not a fight but a sheeting gang, also from Geoff Stevens. I am not normally attracted to figures that are frozen in mid-motion, and cameos like these can very easily become a cliché. However I couldn't resist the two sets pictured here, which fit well with a concept I have in mind for a future third layout in the Farthing series. Above: These figures are from Model Railway Developments (MRD). I've been wanting to have a closer look at these for some time, as the range is focussed on my own Edwardian period. Above: Two further MRD figures. This range demonstrates how whitemetal figures can vary considerably in quality and detail within the same range. The little girl seen here is very good, but I don't think she takes after her mother :-) Above: The same figure seen from two different sides. Quite often, I find, a figure can look unrealistic from one side but quite good from another. I wonder if this has something to do with the original sculpting process? In any case, careful positioning can sometimes bring out the good side in a figure. Above: This loco crew is from the small Alan Gibson range. Figures in the range seem to have a 1900s-1920s look and feel. The loco crew is made for L/H drive, which is a pity for GWR modellers. But I suppose non-GWR modellers deserve decent figures too ;-) Above: Two porters, also from Alan Gibson. I might change the pose of these, but the faces have a certain character! Captions, anyone? Above: A line-up of station staff from the above ranges, plus a figure from the better known Monty's range from Dart Castings. Above: Clearly there's a dinner party nearby! Another comparison here, with a couple from the large Langley range thrown in. Above: A group of Monty's figures. While there are individual useful figures in all of the above ranges, they don't trump the Monty's range, which in my view wins hands down every time. They have the right bulk, relaxed poses and the faces are usually good.
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