RMweb Gold 96701 Posted February 24, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2010 Tell you what folks, why don't I just buy one of these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BRL1230.html 4 feet long, plug in lead for an extra 4 quid or so, and let's play it safe with something properly designed for the job. Thanks for all the replies though. Looks good, bearing in mind Trustytrev's comments regarding damage to the lamp, and it's effects. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ste234 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Hmm so, Domestic lighting circuits run off 230v from a 6amp breaker, so in order to make the light work correctly, a fuse should be fitted to take the amps down from 32A (assuming its a ring main) to 6A, so just take out the 3A fuse and fit the appropriate one? As others have said you will get one heck of a belt if it doesnt work out right, so just make sure its earthed somehow. Im studying Electrical at college now, so have a fair bit of an idea what im talking about, but i personally would stick to low voltages if you are not sure what you are doing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin_m Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Unless it's one heck of a light it won't require anything like the full 6A - that would power over 1000 watts of lighting and is intended for all the lights in the house. So although in theory the lamp may be rated to carry 6A for short periods if a fault develops, putting a larger fuse in would make it less safe for absolutely no benefit. Using a 3A fuse also allows you to use a 3A flex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roddy Angus Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Just in case anyone is confused by ste234's comment, fuses have nothing to do with reducing current in a circuit, they are a safety device which are designed to blow before the the design rating of the equipment or cable is reached. You should always use a fuse which is matched to the power of the equipment. For a light a 3 amp fuse in the plug is more than enough, a 100 watt light will only draw about 0.5 amps, but I would always recommend that you use at least a 5 amp rated cable. When referring to "a 6 amp breaker" I presume ste234 is talking about a circuit breaker or RCD in the fuse box. Under no circumstances should these be touched by anyone who does not know what they are doing. Changing the fuse/CB/RCD ratings can be dangerous as they are matched to the current carrying capacity of the wiring in the house. Reducing the rating of the fuse on a ring circuit will just lead to it blowing or tripping all the time. As others have said, while it is possible to connect a light fitting designed for ceiling mounting to a plug via a cable, it must be done safely and, unless you know exactly what you are doing, get it done by a qualified electrician. Roddy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Okay, I need clear advise please folks. Moving away from converting a ceiling light, is the product I have linked here... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/10033-can-you-convert-a-ceiling-light-to-a-plug-in-light/page__view__findpost__p__89005 ...suitable or not, particularly as the third accessory down is a '1500mm Mains Socket with Lead - Power to Fitting'. Buy the light & mains lead, put a plug on it, screw firmly to lighting rig, away we go (taking into account postings regarding potentially dangerous breakages)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roddy Angus Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Dave That light fitting is suitable as long as it is used in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. I assume that what you want to do is to attach the light permaently to the back/front drop and then plug it into a socket. Fot that purpose the fitting should be fine as long as the cable to the socket is secured properly so that it can't be accidentally damaged,i.e the cableis secured to the layout using cable ties or similar so that it can't rub through and expiose the wires. The actual source of the power, light or ring circuit does not make a differance as long as the wiring instructions are followed. If you want some sort of roaming light that you can move around the layout when working in differant areas then it is not suitable as there is a risk of damage to the fitting or cable which could make it dangerous. For this purpose an inspection lamp, as sold by Screwfix or other retailers, would be better as it is built to cope with being moved. I hope that this is helpful, if you have any specific questions feel free to PM me as it might be easier to discuss outwith the forum. Roddy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 I assume that what you want to do is to attach the light permaently to the back/front drop and then plug it into a socket. Correct. Fot that purpose the fitting should be fine as long as the cable to the socket is secured properly so that it can't be accidentally damaged,i.e the cableis secured to the layout using cable ties or similar so that it can't rub through and expiose the wires. The actual source of the power, light or ring circuit does not make a differance as long as the wiring instructions are followed. Okay, great. The layout is portable so there will be ‘movement’ of the whole kit & caboodle, but the lead will exit the lamp and then just exit the whole layout area really and go into the socket. I can’t think of anywhere where the lead will rub against anything, but I will certainly remember this when installing and take careful note (I’ve not actually built the layout yet). If you want some sort of roaming light that you can move around the layout when working in differant areas then it is not suitable as there is a risk of damage to the fitting or cable which could make it dangerous. For this purpose an inspection lamp, as sold by Screwfix or other retailers, would be better as it is built to cope with being moved. Nope, nothing to worry about there, as I said… …screw firmly to lighting rig… …so once screwed to the wooden* lighting rig it will not be moved as such. The entire lighting rig will be, hence the need to watch bashing it into anything and damaging it (and also watching that the cable doesn’t wear or rub over time with it being flexed and moved about, etc), but if I employ the same care with moving it around as I do with the actual layout itself (delicate scenics an’ all) then I’m not anticipating any problems. (*seeing as the whacking great double strip light in my garage is screwed to a wooden rafter (and appears to have been professionally installed) I’m assuming this is fine, right?) I hope that this is helpful, if you have any specific questions feel free to PM me as it might be easier to discuss outwith the forum. Roddy Yes it was, so many thanks for the ‘summary’ posting of everything to take into account. It feels like quite a trek I’ve been on to get here, but I appreciate that everyone was wary of sticking their necks out and actually saying ‘Yes that will be perfectly fine’ when there were factors to take into account, and also that ultimately everyone had my own safety uppermost in their minds. I’m going to order at the weekend so if anyone can think of anything I’ve missed you’ve still got 2 days! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roddy Angus Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Dave What you are proposing seems fine. The only other suggestion I would make is that you remove the tube from the light fitting, when moving your layout, as that will reduce the chances of it being accidentally broken. Glad that I was able to help. Roddy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 ........It is even possible to mount the innards in a box on the floor and just susped the tube above the layout, but that isn't something i'd recommend unless you know what you're doing. I have done this, but you must have a reasonable heat sink(s) for the ballast units and fans to keep it all cool. The layout 'Blea Moor' had this set up too, I found out by not having fans and the container was hot - very hot after the first full day I used it at an exhibition. The advantage is all the heavy stuffs at floor level. Agreed with all the above advice re. 'you must know what your doing'. Penlan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Mc Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Hi My advice is get a professional in, after all thats what they are trained to do. But I assume you will go ahead and do it anyway so my advice is, Isolate the circuit before working on it. Lock out and tag that circuit so nobody turns it on while you are working on it. Test your tester so you know it works. Test that the circuit is dead. Best of luck. m Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meple Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 talking about a circuit breaker or RCD in the fuse box. These are completely different devices. A circuit breaker responds to over current and RCD responds to a leak to earth Don't confuse the two and both are needed or a fuse and an RCD. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Hi My advice is get a professional in, after all thats what they are trained to do. But I assume you will go ahead and do it anyway so my advice is, Isolate the circuit before working on it. Lock out and tag that circuit so nobody turns it on while you are working on it. Test your tester so you know it works. Test that the circuit is dead. Best of luck. m I think you need to read the whole thread matey - I ain't doing this ceiling light conversion anymore. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 I must admit to being slightly confused (quite normal, don't worry about it! ) about what you want to use this thing for. Would something like this do? - came from Lidl or Aldi for about a fiver Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 Well I've explained it twice but here's a third time I want some lighting for a portable layout, so I'm after a strip light of 4 or 5 feet long, and want to screw it to a lighting rig that will sit over the layout. For example: http://www.nevardmedia5.fotopic.net/p55755546.html So a summary of the thread would be... 1) The original plan was to purchase a normal ceiling light, put a plug on it and use that. So I asked if this would be a good idea or not. 2) It seemed not, so I searched around some more and found a light that is designed to be used as a normal plug-in-socket light. I put in a link to this. 3) I am ordering this today and am not planning to use a converted ceiling light anymore. 4) I do not want a roaming light, it will be fixed to the layout. So there we go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilNE Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Bit late but has anybody mentioned aquarium lights. You get a ballast unit in a case with leads to the plugs Like this................... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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