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Diagram3D GNR 4 Comp 3rd Class Brake (Dia 281)


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The supplied single layer roof which was curved previously has been tacked on one side to the coach side with Tacky glue and left to set:

post-3717-0-91057200-1436386071_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-57750600-1436386072_thumb.jpg

 

Tacky glue is applied along the remaining side thus:

post-3717-0-09345200-1436386073_thumb.jpg

 

The roof was then held in position for around 5 minutes with a ruler while the glue takes (featuring "Grumpy Weekdays" as "fingers"):

post-3717-0-72351400-1436386073_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the fitted roof. Now earlier I expressed doubts about whether this would work but I am really pleased the way it worked out. The half etched lines do result in the individual planks showing through which is actually quite prototypical.

post-3717-0-19677200-1436386074_thumb.jpg

 

The previously "teaked" cornice strip is correctly glued along the top of the side:

post-3717-0-77940700-1436386074_thumb.jpg

 

This particular kit does supply laser cut mdf solebars and headstocks and I still need to fit the supplied rainstrips but other than that, this is a far as the kit takes the builder.

 

There has been some criticism over the approach of this kit including the need to laminate the various layers together, however this actually proved very easy to do and I must admit I am very pleased with the result. Bear in mind that the kit shown sells for a very reasonable £22.50 so in my view represents very good value for money.

 

I mentioned in a previous post that I have actually ordered a couple more with a view to improving on my technique and more closely following the manufacturer's design and also to try and see if I can build one so that the floor is removable. I have also been picking the manufacturer's brain with regard to adhesives etc so watch this space!

Edited by MikeTrice
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Further to Mike's questions (and also to Mike, if he has formed an opinion)

 

 

I wasn't suggesting the roof should be removable - I build my carriages to split at the solebar, so the floor is removable and is usually secured by bolts. In the case of a 6 wheeler, I'd make a Paxolin floor with the undergubbins soldered to it and slot the body down on top. Does your approach to construction allow for a model to be built in that way?

 

It may be blind prejudice, but I don't like sealing vehicles such that they can only be opened up in a destructive manner - that's a sure fire route to a seat or passenger becoming detached and jamming upside down across a window in the most conspicuous manner possible. Unscrewing something is my preferred route.

A lot has happened since my last post. The new kits have arrived and I have changed my building technique in the light of experience. I will cover these in a later post.

 

In the meantime I have had a go at building one of the kits so that the floor is removable. The method is shown here:

 

As I did not intend to paint the interiors prototypically the card sheet for the partitions and roof struts were sprayed with Halford's Matt Black. The partitions were slotted in place in the floor and the roof struts slotted in place, then the various joins painted with PVA as per the D3D video but NOT gluing the partitions into the MDF base. Now I owe D3D an apology as I did not believe that the partitions and roof struts would be strong enough on their own and cut my own partitions. I have now confirmed that the single card partition as supplied is up to the job:

post-3717-0-12530500-1436894941_thumb.jpg

 

When the main roof struts have dried if the resulting assembly is removed from the mdf floor it is not very strong in its current form as there is nothing to stop it lozenging. To provide the needed rigidity I added 3 rectangles of card and glued them between the outer roof struts resting on the inner struts. This is only necessary when the main assembly is to be removable from the floor:

post-3717-0-85141900-1436894941_thumb.jpg

 

With the assembly still fitted to the floor one of the sides is glued in place and allowed to dry. The assembly can then be removed and upended:

post-3717-0-38983200-1436894942_thumb.jpg

 

THe tabs on the partitions are now snipped off with scissors leaving a flat surface:

post-3717-0-97800900-1436894942_thumb.jpg

 

Tacky glue is sparingly placed on the partitions:

post-3717-0-57553600-1436894943_thumb.jpg

 

The assembly is relocated on the mdf floor and the second side fixed in place.

post-3717-0-39317900-1436894944_thumb.jpg

 

As designed the kit does not provide any anchorage for the outer roof struts and the side can bow out.

post-3717-0-19501800-1436894945_thumb.jpg

 

To resolve I used a couple of spare paritions to act as inner ends. Before doing so I had to cut notches in the roof struts:

post-3717-0-95559900-1436894945_thumb.jpg

 

The spare partitions can now be glued in place, recessed between the sides:

post-3717-0-77364000-1436894946_thumb.jpg

 

Here one of the ends proper has been glued in place:

post-3717-0-34836500-1436894947_thumb.jpg

 

Glazing was added from the remaining end and the other end proper glued in place with hair clips (the double prong fits either side of the roof struts nicely):

post-3717-0-53083300-1436894964_thumb.jpg

 

So there you have it. It just needs the roof rolling and fixing in place, then some arrangement to allow the mdf floor to be bolted to a cross bearer and job done: one removable floor.

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I mentioned previously that I had two new kits to build and had changed my methods in the process. Hopefully this will simplify things and address some of the issues I experienced previously.

 

For this exercise I am tackling one of Diagram3D's GNR 6 Wheel 4 Compartment 3rd Class Brake carriages (D281) kits which at the time of writing retail at £17.50: http://www.diagram3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=70_73&product_id=72. As before the kit is for the body only and requires the builder to supply an underframe and appropriate roof fittings.

 

The kit comprises an mdf floor which also acts as an assembly jig, laser cut card layers, glazing and alignment clips:

post-3717-0-68374400-1436904328_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-39660000-1436904329_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-86819200-1436904478_thumb.jpg

 

The instructions advise that the various card layers are sealed with fixative before assembly. This is essential in my opinion if any form of water based adhesives or paints are going to be used. In my earlier build I used old fashioned Shellac as a sealer however wanted to use something more modern and quicker. After some research on the effectiveness and waterproofing capability of various fixatives I settled on using Daler Rowney Perfix Colourless Fixative in spray form.

 

Using a scrap of timber, the various layers were pinned in place and sprayed with the fixative from both sides. The timber batten can then be placed spanning a gap so the card can dry out:

post-3717-0-31280100-1436904330_thumb.jpg

 

The various infills were removed from the assembly jig mdf by cutting through the "tabs" on the back with a knife:

post-3717-0-53024000-1436904331_thumb.jpg

 

Unlike my first kit, this time there were no problems with fitting the clips:

post-3717-0-21795900-1436904332_thumb.jpg

 

The top frame is required to fit over the bottom frame. In my case the slots needed opening up a little, and for this I find emery boards to be ideal (I am sure Happy Sunday would approve ;) ):

post-3717-0-64774800-1436904332_thumb.jpg

 

Here are the two frames assembled:

post-3717-0-23461400-1436904333_thumb.jpg

 

In my earlier build I resisted removing the mdf infills from the frames before assembly however I had an idea I wanted to try out which would actually be easier if the infills were removed, hence why they are not present in this build.

 

When I used the spray adhesive previously it was a bit hit and miss stacking the various layers and I had no time for adjustment. This time I wanted a method that I could assemble the various layers in the jig, check alignment and clamp them BEFORE applying adhesive.

 

At this point I noticed that Diagram3D had changed the design of the various overlays to reduce the amount of large surface that requires gluing together. This was a major bonus as it aided what I was trying to achieve.

 

If I was doing this with styrene layers I would use liquid solvent applied with a brush. I could use varnish or paint to act as an adhesive but wanted something a little easier to work. In the end I settled on PVA thinned to a runny consistency (slightly thicker than might be used for gluing ballast) then applied with a brush as if it was styrene. Once the adhesive had wicked between the various frets any excess from the panels was brushed out. After a short while the adhesive becomes sticky so if any beading is not fixed down it can be gently pressed down with your fingers taking care not to push the lower beading out of alignment:

post-3717-0-73193400-1436904333_thumb.jpg

 

The same is performed on the reverse side:

post-3717-0-53677200-1436904334_thumb.jpg

 

Using this technique illustrates why I now remove the smartframe infills. The assembly is now put to one side to fully harden.

 

From opening the packet, spraying the side layers, assembling in the jig and gluing is probably around 20 minutes.

 

 

 

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Thank you very much for taking the time to providing such lengthy and detailed posts, the assembly of these carriages is highly interesting and unique, but just a small question. How hard, and where do you get the rest of the parts needed to complete the kit (under frame and roof fittings) and also, how much extra would they cost on top of the basic kit?

Thanks in advance.

Nelson

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Mike may have his own alternative ideas, but when I looked at these, my thoughts for underpinnings were 14mm W irons from Comet (ISTR they come in sets of 3, which is handy), springs from Wizard, I think they do several long carriage type springs, axleboxes also from Wizard/51L - there's an NER one which is close in shape to the GNR if you fit it upside down.

 

Buffers I hadn't thought about but I've used a sprung LNWR or LYR one in the past on GN stock. Brake gear is fairly easy. Solebars you can make from 1/8" Evergreen channel, bits of strip and rivet transfers.

 

Have you put any interior detail into these, Mike and how visible is it?

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Questions, questions. If only I had the answers. That would mean making decisions and actually finishing something ;)

 

Lets start with the easy question regarding interiors. No, no interior detail. A closeup shows little is visible and I am being lazy, but if you wanted to then feel free:

post-3717-0-48529800-1436978998_thumb.jpg

 

Regarding roof fittings I do have some parts squirrelled away so I will need to dig them out and let you know what they are. They were used in my NER 6 wheeler thread.

 

When I first started this thread I was keen on demonstrating what you actually got with these kits and how well, or otherwise, they went together. To the best of my knowledge everyone was asking questions, but no-one was actually trying them out. I started with the 45'0" coach for the simple reason that an underframe would be relatively straight forward, not so the 6 wheelers. So why did I go onto the 6 wheelers? They were cheaper and I wanted to try out further ideas.

 

I could bottle out and just show the kits based on the components provided. Little is recommended in terms of what you need to complete them and in the case of the 6 wheelers this could put people off purchasing them, so in fairness I do need to answer these questions even if they have no straightforward answer.

 

I have tried the Brassmaster's Cleminson underframes in the past with limited success but would probably not use them for this kit (note to self: expect brickbats for this statement).

 

I suspect a degree of experimentation is called for and this is probably not the thread to do it in. Once a solution is forthcoming then this thread can be restarted with the recommended finishing touches.

 

Jonathan, thanks for the suggestions regarding the Comet and Wizard parts. From memory they were the source of roof details I used for my NER 6 wheeler and I will be trying out the Comet 14mm W Irons.

 

Is this a cop out? Probably. I just don't have answers at this point.

 

At the start I mentioned that I needed to make decisions. With the forthcoming release of the Stirling Single and the recent release of the Ivatt Atlantic which I have in GNR livery, would tend to suggest that the 6 wheelers should be in GNR livery and be built to "OO" standards. Those in themselves present there own problems, but at least I have a target to work towards.

 

 

 

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As promised roof details I will be using (ordered tonight):

 

51L LNWR Carriage Torpedo Vents (LNWRC042) £1.75 for 20

51L MR Carriage Gasd Lamps (MRC041) £3.50 for 20

 

Have also ordered some Comet 14mm W-Irons (C7) £3.50 for 3  and 51L CR 6ft springs (CRC016).

 

All availabe from Wizard Models website.

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Once the sides had dried, they were cut out and then the remaining "tabs" for the beading carefully removed. This can be done by running the knife blade over the "tab" until there is no longer any resistence then flicking the blade sideways to eject the removed sliver of card:

 

post-3717-0-46014700-1437065948_thumb.jpg

 

The various end layers were loaded in the jig, however try as might I could not get them to lay flat ready for the next process (probably I had them curved while the fixative was drying):

post-3717-0-04730800-1437065949_thumb.jpg

 

My answer was to use the diluted PVA technique but using it on the surrounding card pieces first, then when dry, gluing the actual pieces together:

post-3717-0-73625500-1437065949_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-30945700-1437065950_thumb.jpg

 

When I built the first kit which was also a Brake vehicle I felt that the sides, where they butt up to the Guard's partition, needed some support so that the side would take up the correct curvature. To do this I duplicated one of the normal partitions in spare card, stuck it in place, then cut out the central void. In reality I could have just done the lower part:

post-3717-0-69618100-1437065951_thumb.jpg

 

Previously, once the various layers were laminated together, I treated them with Shellac then hand painted the orange base colour. This time I simply sprayed the various parts with Halford's Volkswagen Briiliant Orange:

post-3717-0-64372500-1437065952_thumb.jpg

 

Once dry, to form the turnunder I used a 10mm dia knitting needle. Two sheets of craft foam were placed on the table, the sides placed face down on them, then the knitting needle rolled across them repeatedly under considerable pressure:

post-3717-0-31022700-1437065953_thumb.jpg

 

The resulting curve:

post-3717-0-28429100-1437065954_thumb.jpg

 

Now the bit I enjoy the most, adding the "Teak" graining coat with the oil paint. The technique is to sparingly brush the paint all over the surface and set aside for 5 - 10 minutes then dry off the brush and start dragging it in the direction of the grain trying to avoid buildup against the beading. The verticle panels are done first, then the horizontal top panels, then the horizontal lower panels. Keep at it until you are happy with the result and put aside for at least 24hrs to dry. Some of the small bits are hard to handle while painting so I managed to "Teak" my fingers in the process:

post-3717-0-09385600-1437065955_thumb.jpg

 

I should add at this point that painting the various parts before assembly is quite alien to me but it does make assembly of the Guard's compartment easier (I hope).

Edited by MikeTrice
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Mike,

This is a great thread, really shows where I went wrong, the sealing of the panels!

Having seen your efforts I will have another go with a 45' vehicle.

Thanks for posting the components as well, I have other 6 Wheel vehicles in brass to complete and this is a great help.

I hope I have added a picture of the Buffer beam of the vehicle at Quainton Road to show buffer type on this vehicle, its a 6 Compartment 3rd, Dia 243.

 

Steve

 

 

www.gnrsociety.com

 

 

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Thanks Steve. Did you get any more photos of the underframe?

 

And yes, if you are going to use water based products some form of waterproofing first is essential.

 

Early this morning it dawned on me what I have stated I would do, i.e. finish this coach in GNR livery. I quite fancied the early livery with the GNR monogram on the doors. This raised a couple of problems:

  1. The coach would have to be lined
  2. No 4mm transfers are available to my knowledge

As had been stated earlier it really makes sense to do the lining while the coach is in its component parts and even though I was eager to get on with the construction could not put off the issue of lining any further.

 

The components were given a coat of Klear which was allowed to dry.

 

Using an old bow pen (manufacturer unknown) verticle lines were applied using a very old tin of Humbrol Light Buff Gloss 7. This had had some of the oil drained off and was then stirred repeatedly. I then had to wait for the pint to go off, and wait, and wait, and wait. It seemed to take forever and was like, well watching paint dry:

post-3717-0-34431500-1437155990_thumb.jpg

 

Finally I was able to rule the horizontal lines:

post-3717-0-27035300-1437155991_thumb.jpg

 

As can be seen from these close-ups the lining leaves much to be desired. The biggest problem is I struggled to actually see what I was doing. Hopefully the errors can be painted out with the oil paint once everything has dried:

post-3717-0-12254000-1437155992_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-84359100-1437155992_thumb.jpg

 

Before anyone comments the lining should be bordered with a blue line however it is my belief this is not visible enough to warrant the effort.

 

The inner Guard's partition had the glazing glued with 5 minute epoxy applied sparingly and clamped unitl cured:

post-3717-0-54388300-1437155993_thumb.jpg

 

Meanwhile the interior partitions and roof stringers were sprayed with Halford's Matt Black:

post-3717-0-76724900-1437156210_thumb.jpg

 

And now a quick message from the manufacturer:

"Laser's cut with a slight angle. Usually this is not important on thin materials like card, but for thicker materials it can be important".

 

So what this means for the MDF floor is that the slots need opening up a little to fully take the tabs of the partitions. For the majority this was done with a razor saw, but for the inner partition for the Guard which is double thickness I had to use a Junior Hacksaw:

post-3717-0-31125300-1437156211_thumb.jpg

 

Decision time again. I decided to continue my previous experiment and build the coach so that the floor was removable. The partions were therefore slotted in place and the roof stringers fitted. Following Diagram3D's video, PVA was applied with a brush to the joints but steering clear of the floor.

post-3717-0-03304200-1437156212_thumb.jpg

 

The resulting frame was put aside to dry with a square to ensure the partions were upright:

post-3717-0-74339700-1437156212_thumb.jpg

 

The location of the inner Guard's partition can be seen here:

post-3717-0-36539000-1437156213_thumb.jpg

 

Once dry I added reinforcing strips of card between the stringers glued with the trusty PVA and brush:

post-3717-0-82518800-1437156214_thumb.jpg

 

Just need to wait now for the lining to fully dry before assembling the body.

 

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As with the D245 build the first side was glued in place with Tacky glue:

post-3717-0-72272200-1437335117_thumb.jpg

 

The assmebly is removed from the floor. Note that with the recesses in the panels there is very little area of contact between the partition and the side. Things would be improved if the kit design included a vertical bar in the middle of the lower panel section:

post-3717-0-16872000-1437335119_thumb.jpg

 

The partition "tabs" are snipped off and the second side is glued on using the same glue:

post-3717-0-65619800-1437335120_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-96173500-1437335119_thumb.jpg

 

I keep mentoning Tacky Glue. This is a thicker variant of PVA that is tackier to use but still dries clear. There are a number of makes available as can be seen here. THe one I am using is the third from the left:

post-3717-0-40237100-1437335121_thumb.jpg

 

If you don't have any Tacky glue you can make your own by putting some normal PVA in a dish and let it thicken before application.

 

As with the inner partition the glazing is glued to the coach end using 5 minute epoxy. With the D189 kit the glazing followed the contour of the ducket nicely. In this kit the shape is much cruder. I also found that the glazing extended beyond the end and had to be filed back at the base:

post-3717-0-53077800-1437335122_thumb.jpg

 

Being far more sparing with the epoxy I have managed to avoid glue seeping onto the glazing:

post-3717-0-16606200-1437335123_thumb.jpg

 

The next part I was really not sure about so I am winging it here. Fortunately it worked. First of the Guard's end was glued with Tacky glue to the roof stringers and body side extension and set aside against a square until set:

post-3717-0-95405400-1437335123_thumb.jpg

 

In an effort to increase the strength for the next stage, the tops of the lookouts were glued in place:

post-3717-0-60112700-1437335124_thumb.jpg

 

Here the ducket exterior has been fitted. Now it only dawned on me on looking at these photos, that the lower panel should be at the same height as the body side panels, however even though the ducket is mounted low, the depth of the lower panel is still short and really needs to be taller to match the lower body edge. Gluing was done in two steps, first the flat panel was glued then when set glue applied to the curved parts again with Tacky glue:

post-3717-0-01247000-1437335911_thumb.jpg

 

This prototype photo illustrates the various panel alignments:

post-3717-0-06901900-1437335981_thumb.jpg

 

The items ordered from Wizard models magically appeared on my doormat yesterday, so many thanks for the fast delivery. The torpedo vents and gas lamp tops can be seen here:

post-3717-0-72803200-1437335911_thumb.jpg

 

And in even greater detail:

post-3717-0-43673800-1437335912_thumb.jpg

 

Time now to slot in the glazing strips. Unfortunately these were too wide so would not fit in the provided slots. Some remedial rubbing down was required. At this point my 3 year old Grandson decided "Me help Grumps" so they are his fingers shown with the glazing strip being rubbed down on a sheet of 360 grit wet and dry paper:

post-3717-0-47486000-1437335913_thumb.jpg

 

Glazing inserted the cosmetic end can be glued in place with Tacky glue:

post-3717-0-11969300-1437335914_thumb.jpg

 

For some strange reason inserting the glazing caused one sides upper glued joints to fail:

post-3717-0-86056600-1437335914_thumb.jpg

 

Whilst the glue was setting it was held in place with a steel ruler and some pony tail hair bands (the small variety) which were ideal (thanks to Happy Sunday for the tip):

post-3717-0-50913600-1437335915_thumb.jpg

 

The supplied roof was exactly the same length as the assembled coach and I really wanted a slight overhang so I ended up tracing the one supplied onto some spare card and cutting my own. To cut out the holes for the vents and lamps four tiny slots were cut with the scalpel:

post-3717-0-41467800-1437335916_thumb.jpg

 

Four diagonals were also slotted and the resulting waste popped out:

post-3717-0-20165800-1437335917_thumb.jpg

Edited by MikeTrice
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A quick check that the castings would fit:

post-3717-0-02133200-1437336856_thumb.jpg

 

As with the earlier kits the roof was curved then tacked on one side with Tacky glue:

post-3717-0-60889800-1437336856_thumb.jpg

 

When set the second edge was glued in place and I used the hair loops to aid holding it in place:

post-3717-0-63570000-1437336857_thumb.jpg

 

Looking at the end view I was unhappy once again with the Guard's lookouts as the top should overhand the sides as on the prototype:

post-3717-0-56021000-1437336858_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-37318400-1437336859_thumb.jpg

 

To address this I eased off the kit supplied tops and cut some new ones a bit larger:

post-3717-0-18860800-1437336860_thumb.jpg

 

Here they are in place awaiting painting and graining:

post-3717-0-04854100-1437336861_thumb.jpg

 

Finally a couple of views of the current state of play:

post-3717-0-70231700-1437336861_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-25804200-1437336862_thumb.jpg

 

I have a few more things to do on this kit however the bulk has now been done. I have more or less done these kits to death so I will now leave alone for now until some other thing crops up. At some point I will also attempt to show how to build the underframes however that goes beyond a straightforward kit review.

 

I have now made three of these kits and am modifying my techniques every time I tackle one. I still have other ideas I would like to try out and hopefully will one day.

Edited by MikeTrice
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Interesting question and I am struggling to come up with a way of comparing them.

I would suggest that the physical build time is approximately the same, however with the card kits elapsed time is increased by having to wait for the fixative and glue to set at each stage. The other issue that impacts both time and cost is that you need to source various fittings separately and provide your own underframe whereas typically the D&S kits include all this.I would also suggest that brass propery joined gives a neater and more finessed appearance. The Diagram3D kits do lend themselves to painting and lining before assembly which I would image would be difficult with a brass kit however a brass kit would be more forgiving during paining as it could be stripped down relatively easily if everything goes wrong. The other obvious issue with the D&S kits is sourcing them in the first place.

I have not found construction of the card kits too onerous, in fact they get quite addictive. Not certain if that helps.

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Cornice and roof details added. Ducket roof painted,. steps, in card, added as designed by the kit designer. Some of the roof fittings need re-gluing:

post-3717-0-31532200-1437496456_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-90945200-1437496456_thumb.jpg

 

Ever the experimenter I have tried an alternative method of laminating the sides. First off they were sprayed with Halford's Grey Primer. I did this so it was obvious where the spraying had taken place, something that normal fixative does not do. To glue the various layers together I used "Thin Hi-Tack All Purpose Very Sticky Glue" diluted with watewr 50/50. As the name suggests as the water evaporates the glue becomes very sticky and it is possible to push the layers together with the brush unitl they grip. Looking good so far:

post-3717-0-70316300-1437496455_thumb.jpg

 

Given the result I have had with the primer and tacky glue, it has been suggested that I spray the card initially with the Volkeswagen Orange colour instead of grey primer. Sounds reasonable so I will give it a go and report back at a later date.

Edited by MikeTrice
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Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more.

 

The various layers have been sprayed with Halford's Volkswagen Orange instead of the grey primer and have been put into the Smartframe jig. At this point in time some of the panels are not laying perfectly flat:

post-3717-0-07606300-1437510086_thumb.jpg

 

An equal quantity of the Thin Hi-Tack glue and water are put in a mixing dish and mixed together:

post-3717-0-02446100-1437510087_thumb.jpg

 

The resulting mix is brushed along the joints and layers so that it leeches through the layers:

post-3717-0-89984900-1437510087_thumb.jpg

 

The brush is dried on a tissue and the excess slowly reduced. As it dries it evaporates and leaves a sticky area between the panels which can be carefully pushed together until they hold:

post-3717-0-65390300-1437510088_thumb.jpg

 

Remember to treat the edges as well:

post-3717-0-18253200-1437510089_thumb.jpg

 

Here the side is almost dry:

post-3717-0-11023900-1437510090_thumb.jpg

 

Repeat the process for the rear:

post-3717-0-30453600-1437510091_thumb.jpg

 

Almost done:

post-3717-0-33968300-1437510092_thumb.jpg

 

Finally the sides are removed carefully from the jig and wrapped in cling film:

post-3717-0-49423700-1437510093_thumb.jpg

 

And place under a heavy book to really dry out. I should have thrown out this book years ago but use it whenever I need a heavy weight:

post-3717-0-17858700-1437510094_thumb.jpg

 

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Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more.

 

The various layers have been sprayed with Halford's Volkswagen Orange instead of the grey primer and have been put into the Smartframe jig. At this point in time some of the panels are not laying perfectly flat:

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An equal quantity of the Thin Hi-Tack glue and water are put in a mixing dish and mixed together:

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The resulting mix is brushed along the joints and layers so that it leeches through the layers:

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The brush is dried on a tissue and the excess slowly reduced. As it dries it evaporates and leaves a sticky area between the panels which can be carefully pushed together until they hold:

attachicon.gifIMG_4189.JPG

 

Remember to treat the edges as well:

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Here the side is almost dry:

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Repeat the process for the rear:

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Almost done:

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Finally the sides are removed carefully from the jig and wrapped in cling film:

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And place under a heavy book to really dry out. I should have thrown out this book years ago but use it whenever I need a heavy weight:

attachicon.gifIMG_4199.JPG

May I add mine to the other admiring posts? Also, Dragon Models has decals of the GNR monogram, I bought some myself only the other week. As to lining, I am far from a GN expert, so I found your approach to it's colour very interesting . Carter states that GN coaches were lined in Chrome Yellow; on the net at large this seems to be very widely interpreted. Preserved vehicles seem to be almost white. I imagine that yellow fades very quickly in use (standing by for brickbats) but I have lined mine with a yellow self adhesive vinyl tape and will maimtain (if challenged) that they are not long out of the paintshop. The same goes for my pale version of varnished teak ( using the Precision Paints system ) although I have painted one in weathered teak, which looks much more like yours. Only trouble is, I think the yellow might look silly on the latter 

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I have lined mine with a yellow self adhesive vinyl tape and will maimtain (if challenged) that they are not long out of the paintshop. 

Interesting Paul, for info was it any specific tape you used ?

 

I'm working my way through a back log of kits at present (another 4 D & S wagons last week) but these are very much on the "to do" list and getting closer.

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Reagrding lining colour Nigel Digby in "The Great Northern Railway on Focus" quotes lining in pale yellow which seems to match what the Vintage Carriage Trust have done and the NRM. It is probably a little on the light side but that is so it actually shows up. The LNER adopted an almost identical style using primrose, albeit with red edging rather than the blue used by the GNR.

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Interesting Paul, for info was it any specific tape you used ?

 

I'm working my way through a back log of kits at present (another 4 D & S wagons last week) but these are very much on the "to do" list and getting closer.

Chris P,

It was a set of very thin tapes that I imported from the US.Unfortunately I cannot remember where from or what they are called but another way would be to get some tile decals off ebay and cut them very finely. They are self adhesive as well

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Reagrding lining colour Nigel Digby in "The Great Northern Railway on Focus" quotes lining in pale yellow which seems to match what the Vintage Carriage Trust have done and the NRM. It is probably a little on the light side but that is so it actually shows up. The LNER adopted an almost identical style using primrose, albeit with red edging rather than the blue used by the GNR.

My lining for the GN is probably a bit too yellow then although I see 3D models seems to show yellow lining. As I am hopeless with the pen I prefer to use tapes and decals

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Chris P,

It was a set of very thin tapes that I imported from the US.Unfortunately I cannot remember where from or what they are called but another way would be to get some tile decals off ebay and cut them very finely. They are self adhesive as well

Chris P,

I remembered the brand of tapes. It is Chartpak. Mine are 1/32" and they come in a variety of colours.I also use Trimline by MicroTechnics and there are the very useful decal lines from Hannants

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