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Talking Lima class 101 front windows has led me to finding your excellent thread!

 

Gradually working my way through from the beginning.  Very inspirational I must say!  Mrs CDF hasn't heard a peep from me all morning!

 

All the best,

 

Vivian

 

 

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Hi Vivien

 

Really pleased you've found it interesting. Us talking 101 windows has got me thinking I should finish my lima effort. I'm attempting to get the layout up and running first but am missing bashing stock about. Work just gets in the way of good modelling time :)

 

Cheers

Will 

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the first time in an age I've done a bit of Loco Modelling.... well not particurly taxing. Rubbed on some DRD transfers, a bit of final weathering and a coat of satin varnish;

 

60037 Helvelyn

 

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392135428_60037(4).JPG.a0bfca3fa6fff4c1ddfabdaa7196bb7a.JPG

 

Galzing since fixed!!

 

60064 Back Tor (hopefully looking a bit battered)

 

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Enjoy the Sunshine 

:sungum:

 

Will

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3 hours ago, Wayne 37901 said:

Hi Will,

 

Over on the DEMU forum you mentioned you mentioned your 47 project on here. Do you know where I can find it? It would be nice to have a read.

 

Cheers

 

Hi Wayne

 

It's admittly very random when I have a go at a 47.... TBH I've not written up much on them. They're all Vitrains and I've bashed a body of a RES example earlier on the thread. But I thought I'd try and improve it a little further and 47600 is probably most advanced currently - although as soon as I've finished building buffer stops I plan on attacking the NSE example. I'm aiming for them to be examples from the Waterloo to Exeter or Paddington to Oxford routes that I have a photo of.

 

cheers

Will

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  • 1 month later...

I decided to have a rest from the layout and for a bit of light relief (?) I've had have a play with a Vitrains 47. I have to admit I'm growing to quite like duffs and until Heljan introduce their new and improved version the Vitrains version is my favourite. And I have a number of Vitrains to play with (cause they're cheap n cheerfull and are the easiest to convert to EM).

 

47600 is my prototype for trying to improve them. First up cool fan walls made from milput;

 

_1150499.JPG.b2fc0c965b9739c34b9fdb2f01a818e9.JPG

 

I've also lost some more sanity and had a go at cantrail handrails form 0.2mm wire. I've made a jig and think I'm getting better so the next loco will hopefully be neater!

 

_1150502.JPG.44a991a56c601a24cf10999837327268.JPG

 

I'd previously fitted the windscreens so today I've added a lamp bracket from Shawplan, (probably foldered up the wrong way but pleased with how it looks). Next up were handrails which have been made from 0.5mm wire. They all were drilled out to 0.5mm from exsiting holes. I did debate with myself on whether I should re-align the handrails by the tail lights as they're positioned a little wide but then decided against the effort involved! Maybe I've had too much sun this bank holiday and feel lazy!!

 

_1150504.JPG.b9f3eeca6a79a230188fe0ad1b7041ab.JPG

 

Hopefully they look neat enough! In an attempt to create some uniformity I've created the hand rails from my super high tech Jig;

 

P1150505.JPG.90e9f45982a100ddd6603bc65f48bfa5.JPG

 

I'll use this to create a load while watching some football on the telly. It's a shame the bank holiday is over so soon and wow it's been hot and sunny!!  :sungum:

 

cheers

Will

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3 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

I've also lost some more sanity and had a go at cantrail handrails from 0.2mm wire....

 

Maybe I've had too much sun this bank holiday and feel lazy!!...

 

I wouldn’t call that laziness! Laziness would be my approach using the original etched ones...

 

Top drawer work as usual Will, the level of detail is outstanding; I look forward to seeing the finished beast! :senile:

 

Jack.

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Thanks again Will!

 

Totally agree laserglaze will make a difference.  I haven't yet found any that fit and I've been badgering Brian to make some to match his frames.... however he's always got far more important things on the go! 

 

I've just fitted a crude approximation to windscreen washers and I'm now pondering whether the high intensity light is quite right. Changing that might be a step too far.

 

Cheers

Will

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Hi Will,

 

Progress on the 47 is looking good, I think the ViTrains model is a good base to work from and I have a couple waiting to be done.

 

One question about how you photograph your projects though, I've just posted a photo of my 26 in my workbench thread but I have all the garden table in the background. What do you use, it looks like a white tablecloth or something?

 

Cheers,

Wayne

 

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Thanks Wayne.

 

My photo setup is embarissingly simple - two white shelves (one upright propped up by a brick and the other flat on my garden table). I like to photograph outdoors so try to only take photos on a sunny day! I do use a tripod with my old bridge camera and tend to crop the image at the end (if I'm blinded by the sun and can't see my LCD viewer to get the right image).

 

One day I plan on upgrading this setup to a more modern SLR camera... but models and shawplan stuff seem to take cash priority ;)

 

cheers

Will

 

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  • 1 month later...

Modelling time has been very much at a premium since my last post and what little time I've had has been Vitrains 47 focussed. Sorry for the very naff photos;

 

_1150509.JPG.662500afab24fe6151026e9cb45a7cfe.JPG

 

47600 has had a bit of paint added - precision rail blue and railmatch yellow. I've got some tidy up painting to do around the cantrails and then add the warning stripe but when varnished I think it'll all bed in nicely.

_1150511.JPG.fedb019d4c133b07984bba6b0d01dc7b.JPG

 

You can't really see it in my terrible photos but I've done a bit extra on the front. The Vitrains headlight always looked a bit long and thin to me so I was contemplating fitting a new one. However that was far too much work so I've simply filed it down and created new bolt holes with a light punch (the plastic is so soft it's dead easy). Also added a thin bit of plasticard to give an impression there are washers on the nose. Overall happier with the face of the loco now.

 

I've always wanted to model 47401.... but on removing nameplates from the Vitrains release I made a right mess up of the paint. As the front needs respraying in a nicer shade of yellow... and the roof needs patch paintin at a minimum I've just decided to strip it and start again.

 

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The first 10 locos had different cantrail grills and I've lost a bit of sanity and had a go at representing them by removing the extra struts with a sharp knife. It needs priming to see if I've been successful... but I'll only do that when I've done the other side which might take some time!

 

And a few more victims have joined the production line;

 

_1150512.JPG.d64da482d5a1e44cd4c3e18ea537550f.JPG

 

Respraying the warning yellow really makes a difference! You'll have to trust me on that one as my photos are terrible. And I do like the reduced headlights. I'm not happy with the Railmatch NSE blue which looks dull in comparison to the original so this will have a coat of Precision NSE blue soon to try and patch paint bits in. I'm not sure what the roof colour will be. I'll probablly go for black then weather it down. If anyone knows please let me know!

 

There is a little theme to these... I've found a flickr photo where they've been on the waterloo-exeter or paddington-oxford routes on passenger duties mostly looking battered. Thats kind of south west enough for me ;)

 

Happy Modelling

Will

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A strange loco on the bench...

 

20191027_114632.jpg.c92139cf1527919a32fc82eae826a7eb.jpg

 

I'm aiming to do a preserved 40 with as minimal modelling as possible. I managed to pick up a retooled body and so have applied some shawplan frames. One thing I dislike is the join between the body and the seperate front nose which Bachmann didn't do on their previous release. The join is really noticible with this livery so I'm applying some filler to hide it. Also by trying to hide the join I've found out the nose is larger than the body! I've done loads of filing to improve the join and now some filler has been applied which will hopefully hide the join.

 

Now for some real minimal modelling!! The Superb PCA from Accurscale

549489137_2019-10-2711_44_58.jpg.6e7afe84b9f240ac167e29fd80440c94.jpg

 

They're so nice the inners of the rake will have scale couplings with a kadee on each end. So I've removed the NEM socket on the 3 link ends and painted some buffers. The line up above is choosing EM wheels... as I couldn't resize the originals and fit them in (need a lathe to turn them down). From the thread on these wagons I've learnt that the scale size is 12.5mm diameter which is the Ultrascale fitted version fitted right.... but then i had a shock when I looked up the latest price for them so won't be using them for this rake!!  So I've fitted a DCC concepts 12mm version in the middle. Close up I guess you can tell but to me it looks ok and at under a 1/3 of the price of the ultrascales it's a bit of a no brainer.


So while the weather is naff... I've masked up and sprayed some...

20191027_080710.jpg.decd06640ead2b7bcd8bc7634e188c2d.jpg

 

Who said Modelling was dull! To fit the wheels I've reduced the size of the plastic washer on these and taken a small amount of plastic off the wagon and they're done. I wish all skock was this easy! 

 

 

 

cheers for reading

Will

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  • 3 weeks later...

Colds are such a pain... because they basically keep me out of the garage and as a result very little modelling takes place.

 

So I've gone back 47600 (which is my vitrains test engine) to see if i can sort out ride height. As soon as you remove the glazing the body doesn't clip into place and it's rather sloppy. So my high tech solution is a simple jig (which is a piece of scrap brass fret) and by using the original clips glue in some plastikard tabs. This approach has managed to keep it all straight and the same height all round;

Colds are such a pain... because they basically keep me out of the garage and as a result very little modelling takes place.

 

So I've gone back 47600 (which is my vitrains test engine) to see if i can sort out ride height. As soon as you remove the glazing the body doesn't clip into place and it's rather sloppy. So my high tech solution is a simple jig (which is a piece of scrap brass fret) and locating by using the original clips glue in some plastikard tabs. This approach has managed to keep it all straight and the same height all round;

 

_1150519.JPG.b12bd59dfecf7355149d4d3747759dae.JPG

 

So onto to height. Wiki says the height of a 47 is 12 ft 9 1⁄2 in (3.90 m) so 51.32mm high. All sounds very precise but I can't measure that accurately! So I've got the height to be about 51mm so a little higher than my test mk1 coach;

 

_1150516.JPG.7252120f74578f2981abdb55c289eddc.JPG

 

I've read that the Vitrains body is perhaps a little short… I think I agree and I reckon it is short by about 0.5-1mm. So I've tried compromise and align it as best as i can to the coach... so it's possible about 0.5mm too short overall and maybe not lowered enough.... What do you all think?

 

Perspective messes things up but a link below to an excellent photo on flickr;

47600 "Saint David".

 

Rubbish exposure but hopefully it looks ok

_1150517.jpg.3850cc4ea979c7b57d3c20be4b7d7e8d.jpg

I think I'm happy... !! Please do let me know if you think it looks ok. (I'm sure it's my naff photography that's making the blue look green... even the bits I've resprayed with precision rail blu dull look green in these photos!)

 

Onto buffer beams and Kadees next.

 

Happy Modelling All!

 

Will

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Hi Will.

 

Looks okay to me, a full size loco will sit at slightly different heights anyway depending on how much wear there is in the springs.

 

If you look up a photo of the tripple class 20s on the 'Three to the Sea' tour, you'll notice the railreight one rides higher as it had new springs fitted before the tour.

 

Cheers.

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12 minutes ago, Wayne 37901 said:

Hi Will.

 

Looks okay to me, a full size loco will sit at slightly different heights anyway depending on how much wear there is in the springs.

 

If you look up a photo of the tripple class 20s on the 'Three to the Sea' tour, you'll notice the railreight one rides higher as it had new springs fitted before the tour.

 

Cheers.

 

Thanks Wayne

 

An interesting point that I'd never have thought about! I had to have a little look and youre spot on... the RF sits a lot higher than the other two! So now I have an excuse that all my 47s have fresh springs ;)

 

Cheers

Will

 

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Hi Will,

 

Excellent work as ever on the Vi 47, im working on 47484 at the moment, just sprayed off the yellow ends to correct the lemon coloured ones, as well as preping the bodyshell for Foxs' excellent nameplates.. maybe a suggestion, have you thought of adding the Penbits parts to your 47? im adding their brake components to mine as the originals were broken when I received it

 

Keep up the good work

 

NL

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Hi Nick

 

47484 is one of my favs! It'll be good to see it with a proper shade of yellow and I look forward to seeing a photo ;)

 

I'd not thought of penbits for bogies. I've always admired his stuff but haven't ever dared have a go at springing.  But I know he does some excellent brake components so am rather tempted.

 

Today I put on the buffer beams so am starting to look at the chassis to see what I can mess about with.

 

Cheers

Will

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  • 2 months later...

This is proabably one of my dullest updates but gives an idea what I’ve been playing with as the layout is taking all my modelling time at present.

 

I've always rather liked the Cawoods PFA wagon. So much so that a while back I was building the kit built version even though I've no real reason for needing any. The kit is pretty basic and I was looking at trying to improve it until the Accurascale PFA announcement came along! So the kits were sold and replaced with a rather excellent wagon with superb detail far better than I could ever do!

 

They however need converting to EM for my layout so a bit of modelling is required ;)

 

My first attempt was to try slotting in some DCC concepts 10.5mm wheels. Didn't work well as the axle is longer... so next I took one apart drilled out and fitted brass bearings and tried fitting the DCC concepts wheels… still had axle length issues. So I’ve gone for a simpler approach and turned down the original wheels;

 

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This is done in a mini drill with some files as I don’t have a lathe but it seems to come out ok. Only the width of the wheel has been reduced to fit in the chassis. The extra width of being EM still requires a bit of trimming of the wagon axle guards but seems to work ok.

 

 

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The orginal wheels seem very forgiving to this brutal treatment and are nice and true. One wheel needed a spot of super glue to stop a wheel slipping on the axle but there has been no distortion. I'm quite pleased with how they look in place;

 

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The first attempt involved taking the wagon frame apart to fit brass bearings but on putting it back together I had a very three legged wagon. Realising one side had glue I cleaned it out and have a much better running wagon. The second one with my new approach involved a fine saw to trim the axle guards… then using a sharp knife seemed easiest. Worked great and they even negotiated my ropey trackwork!

 

607659579_2020-01-1817_32_37.jpg.9721886acebff1b6a032596d89c356cc.jpg

 

So I’ve bodged my way to an easy conversion… which should have been my first attempt!

 

Happy Modelling all!

Will

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Following on from my success with the PFAs I'm developing an enthusiasm for thinning down original wheels, and especially so with Bachmann's wheels as they seem to prefer a split axle approach when pick-ups are involved. I've treated myself to a 158 and that looks pretty complex to convert so before i break that I thought I'd have a go with a Bachmann MK2f.

 

20200204_161843.jpg.862524a726a83e2f979b26fb9b746a44.jpg

 

Wheels thinned down in a mini-drill - the flange isn't as nice as the Accurascale wheels so I’ve thinned that a little too.

 

20200204_161855.jpg.7d6b2b9dc2be29b89ead0485ad0fcd1f.jpg

 

My new tool for tapping out wheels which doesn’t damage the pin-point axle. It's a bit of steel rod that’s been drilled out first using a 1mm drill that’s been done deep and then shallower by a 2mm drill. I'm rather please with the result;

20200204_161951.jpg.c73b549b434bbdf61c011eb743d2ff6f.jpg

 

 

The brakes sadly need re-aligning to fit EM wheels. My first dumb effort was to snip them off but then I realised the brakes are a separate moulding so it's a simple case of snipping and then gluing - dead easy!

 

20200204_163006.jpg.02379cdd53a8277bff27c1aed4ef008d.jpg

 

I also filed a little of the brass bearings so the face is nice and smooth as there's not much space with the wider wheels.

 

20200204_163331.jpg.742ae15aab6baf6b1d568cce28ba0c5d.jpg

 

Bench tests have proved successful and it roles nice and smooth!

 

I'm sure a lathe with a forming tool will do a much better job...  but at least the bogie went through my pointwork!

 

 

 

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A few phone snaps of the assembled bogie on the coach. I'm pleased that the mk2f runs as freely as originally supplied by Bachmann - very smooth and I'm not going to bother fitting compensation as I doubt it be worth it. The coach even navigates my dodgy pointwork!

 

20200206_091340.jpg.14f7e094c062311bd02ece9965bcd928.jpg

 

Lined up to my other coaches I thinking it's sitting a smidge lower ( that is assuming I got my heights right of course ;) )

The MK2a looks like it's on stilts as I used a 12mm wheel which is a bit small so the gap between the bogie and coach is a little large - I'll use Ultrascale wheels for all other MK2a's as they spot on size wise,

 

 20200206_091247.jpg.b98bb9b3d1bdc51dba33ce9ad27b98dd.jpg

 

Pretty much the same when next to a mk1 - although I'm happy to live with the difference.

 

Light wise I've toned down the interior lights by setting CV118 to 3 as supplied it was too bright for me. Next up is fitting the kadees on the bufferbeam as this one is a centre coach and also retract the buffers to give me a bit more space for close coupling.

 

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