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On 13/06/2020 at 21:32, dj_crisp said:

It would be very nice... but as I have no way of doing it I'm ok with the next best thing which imo is the lima shell. I tried building a PH etch but that didnt look right which was probably my building skills. I've got 8 in the fleet so really didn't think it was worth the effort so stuck with the lima offering for the side grille. TBH most moving parts are a bit naff as the moving door also irritates as that's a little small - mine are all glued shut!

There was an RMWeb member a while back (based on when I started Superb it was 2009 so rather more than a while)  who was selling a very nice resin casting of the grills.  Most annoyingly I only ever purchased one set, so the other 5 locos still have the Hornby grill.  Does make a big difference.  Its a shame Mr Hanson didnt cover the side grills at the same time the Extreme Etchings roof / window details were released...

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On 15/06/2020 at 12:21, The Fatadder said:

There was an RMWeb member a while back (based on when I started Superb it was 2009 so rather more than a while)  who was selling a very nice resin casting of the grills.  Most annoyingly I only ever purchased one set, so the other 5 locos still have the Hornby grill.  Does make a big difference.  Its a shame Mr Hanson didnt cover the side grills at the same time the Extreme Etchings roof / window details were released...

 

It'll be really nice to have some castings or Brian to have a go!

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On 15/06/2020 at 12:21, The Fatadder said:

There was an RMWeb member a while back (based on when I started Superb it was 2009 so rather more than a while)  who was selling a very nice resin casting of the grills.  Most annoyingly I only ever purchased one set, so the other 5 locos still have the Hornby grill.  Does make a big difference.  Its a shame Mr Hanson didnt cover the side grills at the same time the Extreme Etchings roof / window details were released...

 

That I might be the one and only Mike Buick @scoobyra who produced some excellent Class 50 grilles. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

A few mobile phone shots in the gloom of a pair of 33s I've been working on;

 

97107191_2020-07-1917_09.21----.jpg.203ce15c30a3e49075f587ea14f98760.jpg

 

Both need a bit of underframe weathering to tone things down but overall I'm quite happy with them. Inspiration came as both had been sitting on my work bench following DCC concepts decoder failures and so while replacing them with some old lenz decoders I decided to add a shawplan roof fan, and while messing about thinned the hejlan roof pod;

 

 

1879171498_2020-07-1319_48_48----.jpg.7c0184e747d08f49ea6de6a6c6e78644.jpg

 

 

The fan etch is one of my favourite shawplan etches and there is an excellent you tube video out there on how to make them. It's a pity they're hard to see so I've added red tips so they're a bit more noticable ;)

 

 

1572602108_2020-07-1319_48_07.jpg.9aacb8664100e5c5736d24fc57009f8a.jpg

 

 

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Being a Kadee user made fitting ploughs to 204 tricky... so i had a few broken ploughs; chopped them down a bit and did a low tech bend some scrap brass type of bodge. They're removable if i change my mind or find them causing problems

621359044_2020-07-1618_49_18.jpg.0a8ef1e0e543cbb16287a079bc233f89.jpg

 

PH designs make a nice set of steps for the class 33. I have some in stock but thought I'd be lazy and drill some holes... not as refined but ok.

 

394048097_2020-07-1917_08_32.jpg.13c281ddc1384f4747d4eff7e9bf4195.jpg

 

Also shown in the photo is a lovely Intercity models etch for a kick plate. Way better than silver paint! I've no idea if it's still made but i found some on ebay so probably have a lifetimes supply now :)

 

204 seems to be quite clean in most photos so will only slighty tone down the ploughs, and add oil stains etc. 

 

 

1927118233_2020-07-1917_07.52----.jpg.3b51fc17c3283fc4fb015c040bfee92d.jpg

 

Whereas 103 I might be a bit heavier.... will use shots of it working on waterloo to exeter servies as inspiration

 

1162902291_2020-07-1917_08.57---.jpg.d596e5dc2182cc42f1e87ac725712c30.jpg

 

Happy modelling all!

 

Will

 

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Looking very nice Will! What did you use for the weathering? Washes, dry brush, spray? Enamel or acrylic?

 

Regarding tread plate, it's worth noting that Phil does some in his Stenson Models range: https://www.stensonmodels.co.uk/product/tread-plate-sm22d/

 

Regarding the 50 grills, since Mike didn't have any at the moment, I cut some from a scrap Lima bodyshell with my table saw and made some resin cast copies. Result attached. The masters are a push fit replacement for the Hornby ones. There is slight shrinkage in the casting process but not enough that they aren't still a push fit. The photo shows them just sitting in place (friction fit) into my version of 149 (also EM!). Unlike yours, I've cheated: it's the RE limited edition. I will probably recess them a bit further and mount them onto an appropriate sheet of styrene behind, then paint and fit.

 

Whilst looking at photos yesterday of 50149, I compared the nameplate supplied with the RE limited edition Hornby model with the Shawplan nameplates that I bought from Brian last year. Of note, is that the 'Defiance' lettering should be picked out in black and not just left as metal finish. RE actually got this correct with the nameplate supplied so I chose to use the RE nameplate rather than the Shawplan one (shock, horror!). I'll have to tease Brian when I next see him!

 

Cheers,

 

Guy

IMG_7238.jpg

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Hello Guy!

 

I hope alls good with you!

 

Loving the grilles! I've always used chopped up lima bodies and have a pair of donors but for my final 50 project I need a few more. Casting is a skill I must learn one day especially when they're as neat as yours.

 

The RE limited edition is very nice but was always out of my bargain bin prices!  I look forward to seeing yours! You're right on the nameplates... I just haven't had a go at doing it. I'm not sure my painting skills is quite up to it!

 

Weathering is just enamels. Some of 103 was done by someone else as I got it second hand... infact I've removed a fair bit and toned it done as well as varnishing. Will need to do similar on the underframe.

 

Cheers

Will

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  • 1 month later...

Some progress on my "preserved" distraction;

 

1051791860_2020-08-2212_13_46.jpg.9aefe89971fe57149d06486a5a9c62b3.jpg

 

There doesn't look like much progress but this ones been a tale of modelling gone wrong. If I believed in such things I'd say it's cursed :mad:

 

A lot of effort has gone into getting this to run ok. I had an old four axle drive chassis which happened to have EM Ultrascale wheels and ran really well but also picked up a newer six axle drive chassis. This newer version ran awfully in comparison but with cleaning and running it improved. So I went a little crazy and swapped out the wheels to convert the six axle drive to EM. As a four axle drive with two axles unpowered it surprisingly it ran like ****.  I think the weight distribution means this little number needs to be six axle driven in order to shift it's own weight on less than perfect track. I had a few 3ft9 ultrascale wheels destined for a 47 so have used a pair and fitted the old gear and extra pick ups. Now it crawls as it should.

 

1236710460_2020-08-2212_13_52.jpg.0acd0cfc5dfc2860aab15d746292749b.jpg

 

The body has been lowered onto the chassis my modifying the gear tower slicing at least a mm off (I didn't measure and just guessed). I might have done it too much but can always add washers if i need to raise.  It actually manages to negoicate the layout ok and even negoicates my sidings which are at a different height to the main line. Saying all that it's by far my most sensitive loco to my trackwork. Every one I've built has navigated the layout ok .... this one has found all my minor faults so I've been busy sorting track out too! The pony wheel is still tempremental so I've going to probably fit a sprung version as it seems to be a bit light so 

 

1371969572_2020-08-2212_13_12a.jpg.74b93488c0e674c9a0abd3361ea20f67.jpg

 

I put alot of effort into removing the join Bachman introduced in this version of the loco. For pretty much all other liveries the full yellow end hides this join and if I ever do another one (not going to happen ;) ) I'd gone with full yellow ends!  Once a coat of varnish has gone over it hopefully look ok. Of course by fitting the body a hairline crack has appeared on one side... typically it's not noticible off the boday so I may have a chance of fixing.

 

Shawplan frames have been fitted which improves the front end imo.

 

Onto being cursed. I've never had paint not dry on me.... the roof decided to do that! No idea what went wrong as the paint was properly mixed and the drying problem was patchy. Instead of stripping the lot I brushed thinners over the roof and removed the wet paint leaving large areas that were dry. A bit of sanding and a respray and I think I've got away with it. Of course I've since managed to put my finger through the roof etch so need to redo that. 

 

Next steps are removing the circuit board and sorting out some lighting.  Then I aim to get the body finished as far as I can and depending on my mood might have a go at detailing the underframe. For a distraction it's taking up a fair bit of modelling time so the underframe may wait until I've progressed the layout more. And I'm sure that NEM coupling height looks a bit low!

 

 

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Today I've converted my Bachmann 158 to EM which has sat on my workbench for a few months while I tried to work out how to do it!

 

I had some Ultrascale 2ft9 wheels set aside for another project but noticed Bachmann seemed to have used 2mm axles so thought I'd have a go.

 

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The powered bogie was very straightforward - simply remove the gear and bushes from the old wheelset, replace the axle with a 2mm one wide enough for EM, burr the axle for the gears, add a few M2 washers for spacers and bend the pick ups to match the wider wheels.

 

1467880849_2020-08-2517_30_32a.jpg.183fdb4f61452abcd78a4110e9da2729.jpg

 

The trailing bogie is straightforward too. I tapped off the split axles from the original wheelset and simply fitted the ultrascale wheel and along with some M2 washes fitted it back together. Amazingly with a little bit of force it all fits! The wheels turn smoothly but there is next to no slack which hopefully doesn't cause any problems. Better than in OO as there is too much slack as two of the wheelsets fell out on their own!

 

If only I had some live wheels though. The ultrascales are insulated so I'll fit some new pickups from bronze strip (in the post as I'm out of stock atm). Anyway couldn't resist trying the 158 over my pointwork and it all runs smoothly. 

 

391424634_2020-08-2518_31_39a.jpg.7aad0a52a5ea0678147eeb811ea98c0d.jpg

 

I've got a missing windscreen wiper to fit, so will see if any of my etched ones fit as the plastic originals look a little heavy. One thing I've found is it's very light footed as any kind of slope and i just get wheel slip. If i take the body off I'm tempted to add some weight if there is space. Other things that are slightly bugging me is the mega coupling is pretty naff leaving a large gap between the coaches. For the time being I'm going to leave alone but surely there is a neater way!

 

Overall though I really like this model and I need to explore all the light functions!

 

Oh and anyone knows if it's easy to change the destination then please let me know. Mine should really have one end as Penzance or similar to make it a little bit south west.

 

 

 

 

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While messing about sorting wheels out I noticed my 158 has a missing wiper. No worries I thought as I had some MJT DMU wipers in stock so thought I'd try some as I think Bachmann's efforts are too small. Sadly the MJT wipers are too big for a 158 but snipping off the pivot and then soldering it back onto the arms reduces the lengther enough.

 

1571187208_2020-08-2914_32_17.jpg.5bfa2a8b1eeaa4b945db417c3f49f44c.jpg

 

Bachmann have introduced a rather neat BSI coupling which I like the look of. However I'm never going to couple this unit to anything and while they're quite neat they're a bit too big. I had some Hornby BSI couplings in stock for when i planned on upgrading the old 158 so thought I'd have a go at refining the front a little.

 

1553129294_2020-08-2912_39_11.jpg.adfb58c1c96d4c9ef3288ab8ea71e9ed.jpg

 

A bit of scrap brass, plastikard, some wire and a Hornby BSI coupling later I've made an approximation to the coupling unit. While there I've added some AI Horns too that I have lying around my spares box. These have been attached by soldering them to some brass wire so as I can still get access to the screw to attach it all to the unit.

 

Quite pleased with the approixmate coupling which'll look better when weathered.

 

1017835904_2020-08-2914_31_47.jpg.dfbf27548e48bfea7d364449761890c5.jpg

 

The front recess around the base of the body looks a little shallow to me but something I think I'm going to leave alone/ It'll be nice to change the destination boards to somewhere more in keeping with my layout but as yet I haven't found out if it's possible. One for another day

 

  

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 19/07/2020 at 18:57, dj_crisp said:

The fan etch is one of my favourite shawplan etches and there is an excellent you tube video out there on how to make them. It's a pity they're hard to see so I've added red tips so they're a bit more noticable ;)

I take it that's the video by Laura McWilliams (Diesel & Electric Modellers United) ?

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6 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

 

Thanks. I attempted and failed to make it look convincing....and the thought of building them for 8 locos didn't appeal! Hacking Lima bodies was alot easier.

 

6 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

I take it that's the video by Laura McWilliams (Diesel & Electric Modellers United) ?

 

I think so... link below 

 

 

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11 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

 

Thanks. I attempted and failed to make it look convincing....and the thought of building them for 8 locos didn't appeal! Hacking Lima bodies was alot easier.

I haven't attempted to construct any etches yet and I have quite a few to do , I have been a bit daring though and took a razor saw to a brand new Bachmann loco :D

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14 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

I haven't attempted to construct any etches yet and I have quite a few to do , I have been a bit daring though and took a razor saw to a brand new Bachmann loco :D

 

I like the sound of this :)

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  • 4 months later...

It's been a while since I last did anything stock related so for a change I've rewheeled a Bachmann 150 trailer. 

 

20210321_121453.jpg.7c06833462a3d6890ead6c55a02d6b1a.jpg

 

This is one of the earlier versions and mine had a bit of wobble and lots of wheel slop. Easy solution was to ream out the bogies and add some brass bearings with my trusty dart and hammer approach.

 

20210321_092427.jpg.69b90dbd9367696bce7f1f6341abac51.jpg

 

I've put in a few ultrascale wheels and for an experiment one bogie has the original axles and the other ultrascale. Both work well it seems.

 

20210321_092435.jpg.058293e008e2d42a021e2c3be3d82b3d.jpg

 

I think the ultrascale 2ft9in wheel is a bit smaller than Bachmanns original however by removing slop my attempt seems to ride a bit higher. Even so I think its still 0.5mm lower than it should be but tbh I doubt many would spot that. Lines up ok to a 158.

 

20210321_121716.jpg.f12c03e33cd0ea90a7a2140bb4dfbbec.jpg

 

I've also added a m2 washer to the bogie screw which also helps remove wobble so now it guides beautifully. Really pleased. Next up is electrical connections, pickups and sorting out the power car.

 

20210321_121449.jpg.71e6f85746d7fe29e319a33e3bbae256.jpg

 

Cheers

Will

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  • 3 months later...

It's been a while since I posted anything on locos. Well I've been having a break from layout building and thought I'd do a quick project skip for my mail train..... a few months later this is my progress;

 

 

1714809347_2021-07-1817_27.43-1.jpg.0d363a9ca7a24ebb95a8c9bc9c13f2ba.jpg

 

The front valence has been hacked about to allow a kadee to be fitted and then filled to try and hide the joint a bit. This hasn't been that sucessful but a coat of primer and black has helped hide it a bit. I also filled off the moulded coupling bar (shown white above) and replaced with wire, Painting the rest black has also helped to give an illusion of the bar. I also added a handle by drilling out the coupling and adding some wire... which is a little crude but suggests something goes on there. The rest of the details were simply glued on;

 

 

The more you look on the underframe the more seems missing! Anyhow I've gone with the is it obvious it's missing approach (and whether I have the ability or patience to fit)

 

28482624_2021-07-1219_16.01-1.jpg.22feeee017fcf67a37ea290215a01f61.jpg

 

The bogies are missing what i think are speedo cables and some extra wiring. So I've bent some wire  and soldered up the double wire on top of the bogie. I an see why Hornby left off the sand pipe as I can't work out how to fit one either! I've also drilled out the back of the bogie to create a bit of space to the rear of the springs. Now ready for weathering

 

 

1566061203_2021-07-1817_28_53.jpg.4c588df4455f26e1ecbba294b4cd2ba0.jpg

 

The original wheels are perhaps the worst of any of "todays" models and so I've converted to EM using 12mm branchlines wheels... before;

1593388839_2021-06-0611_56.34-1.jpg.1b29be954f1948938883162d1dfa2583.jpg

 

After;

20210720_124319.jpg.128269198d0f2dbcf9b55cebf92ce95e.jpg

 

Truth be told they're on the small size but interestingly the height of the revised setup is spot on... so they compensate nicely for the gap between the bogie and loco. The discs are a bit oversized but will do for the time being. They're the reverse of MJT discs for wagons which I whacked through a mini drill to get the used look. 

 

1423348016_2021-06-0613_09_31.jpg.83432ceff02f370b1bd422057917c5ab.jpg

 

1910276081_2021-06-0612_48_47.jpg.f531cd8e090cee40ef977e31a463cce8.jpg

 

I'm not sure if it's on all models but the underframe tanks on mine were the wrong way round...These have been turned and one side the existing plumbing worked ok, but the other didn't so for good measure I also added some extra and a handle from scrap brass....

 

 

126446017_2021-07-1219_16.36-1.jpg.6b0848f688f9238fcf3c899dfe3efe64.jpg

 

I really didn't like the exhaust. For the loco I'm doing the shape looks good but the front sits too high and the rear too low. So out came the knife, files and while at it I added a bit of brass,

1021429986_2021-06-2118_36.21-1.jpg.627d87163a47600ee8a691915b31d884.jpg

 

Now sprayed with BBQ silver paint so is resistant to high temperatures!

 

1510628190_2021-07-2012_33_10.jpg.3ec287406bd3b1d3fd1731c9a94a5d3e.jpg

 

Also shown is an experiment to make the under roof grille details stand out a bit more. Painted the bars blue as per my reference photo but i think 67025 should be black. Oh well. it'll look better weathered though!

333902072_2021-07-2012_33_28.jpg.cc2fa624ec4e7c6e7bb4791302d5670d.jpg

 

Next challenge is to sort out glazing and lighting; then it's weathering. I'm debating on the front warning panel as it should be vertical on the sides but that could be a right pain to fix... (I think the top is ok but the bottom goes back too far hence the off vertical line. Fixing that is probably beyond my abilities!)

 

Enjoy the sunny weather ! (My phone is in a bit of shock with all this light as I've been unable to take any half decent photos!)

 

cheers for reading and please point out any glaring mistakes!

Will

 

 

 

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Great work Will, by far the most comprehensive going-over of the new (9 years old!) Hornby 67 I’ve seen. You’re right about the wheels, I’ve replaced mine and I’m 00! I didn’t realise so much was missing or wrong, but now you’ve highlighted it all I’ll notice it every time no doubt……

 

Look forward to seeing the finished article.

 

Jack.

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Good to hear from you Jack!

 

Saying all of above I really like Hornbys Skip. It's probably one of the best runners I've had straight from the box and I'm looking forward to seeing how it comes together.

 

I really wish Hornby would sort their lighting circuits out though... and abandon the negative common!

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  • 3 weeks later...

When it first came out I have to admit I thought the Hattons Class 66 looked like a rather special model. I never took the plunge until a few wobbly runners with glue marks on roof became available from good old hattons. And then Illumination Models produced a rather neat light board fix so I thought I'd have a go.

 

The glue marks on roof turned out to be a misaligned roof grille and a few glue blobs around it;

 

1522173185_2021-07-1222_35.04-1.jpg.f4beaf7431db1871be9f965bd950dd19.jpg

 

The roof grille is really rather nice so I carefully removed it then bent it to shape to better match the roof profile and then sprayed it black. The glue marks turn out to be an easy fix as with a sharp knife I could flick them off... then a bit of T-cut did the rest. Superglued on it looks ok to me and some gentle weathering will sort it out nicely;

 

 

1134842561_2021-08-0717_42_35.jpg.46b3ad3c21e8509a0d59141b07234fb5.jpg

 

Next up was bodging in some kadees. I like to fit them to the chassis directly rather than in the NEM cams... so drilled a hole in the chassis and added another hole in the full valance. It's all fitted together with a 10BA bolt so is removable if needed. Also shown in the photo below is a bit of sticky black stuff I've used to remove light blead. Basically i did a cross and that sticks it together removing the bleed and for good measure sealed the outside.

 

595559575_2021-08-0716_55_20.jpg.2151ae300fb4efe6cca653ff98ec3ccc.jpg

 

Then onto light boards. Now I have a love hate relationship with DCC and tbh most of the time it leans towards hate. Anyhow long story short I've bought the wrong decoder being a 21 pin MTC variant rather than the 21 pin MKV or whatever its called variant. So out came the soldering iron to pretty much rewire the thing;

1805690229_2021-08-0716_55_10.jpg.cf590e580feef5843fb6b58a7d840832.jpg

 

The marker lights is the only circuit left.... with AUX1-8 being hard wired onto the decoder. I try to be careful soldering but always suffer from "cross hairs" where faint connections are made. This one was a right pain but eventually I managed to find it being a thin strand from the decoder board. Took hours !!! Now turning to the Illuminated Models board fix. This is kinda great as it's dead easy to install and solder. I say kinda great as I bought 2 kits but this loco is a combined version of the two kits. For a while I thought I had a broken decoder as I couldn't get one set of tail lights working and for some reason only one marker. It was then on close inspection I found that the boards had missing LEDs. I'm hopeful that the faulty boards are replaced as while I'm very happy to pay £10 for the convenience of these I'm not overly happy if they don't work! 

 

But remarkably it's worked and I now have separate functions for each end for cab, tail, marker, day and night headlights;

 

507797931_2021-08-0717_35_13.jpg.87bb9b10791a3e682c4fcc998fc7b89d.jpg

300163605_2021-08-0717_36_19.jpg.4b7e7e7888b3dcd619267e2b9de69c8b.jpg

 

Conversion to EM is really straightforward. The wobbly locos are well documented on this site being the revolving axle boxes. I admit they look pretty cool in a straight line... but IMO they sit too proud and look weird going round corners and worse still look really odd when not centred! I can't see a way of sorting this design out to make them work so I've chopped mine and stuck them in. With Branchline 14mm wheels in place it runs silky smooth and is jolly impressive. (TBH the original wheels seem very good and I almost kept them just that I like to have all my wheelsets with the same profile.) 

 

Overall I'm very impressed with this loco. It's so detailed that I have a few bits off the bogies I've no idea where they came from! Being secondhand this loco is missing one of the rail deflectors which I will one day try and sort, and the front cabrail in the photos really needs sorting but it's very easily slipping into one of my favourites... I mean it can't help being a shed ! :)

 

859631845_2021-08-0717_42_16.jpg.84c04ba059515d42b260cef041de9f40.jpg

 

Very light weathering will be next if we ever get a dry spell!!

 

Thanks for reading

Will

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I've been bogged down with soldering lighting circuits and so for a change have done a small amount of painting on the roof grille area of my Hornby 67 project.

 

20210911_172754.jpg.32878b6d049ee4c5adeba2ebedb5e1d3.jpg

 

I've tried to replicate a photo I found on Flickr which suggests a kinda white background, a bit of black and some rust.

 

20210911_172748.jpg.df5f248160671e1d9aa714de10e2bbbd.jpg

 

Then the next fun job was trying to seat the grille better than the original. Limited success which resulted in alot of flaked paint off the grille so that's just been repainted.

 

Hopefully I can get the lighting circuits for this sorted. I dont know why but my soldering of lokpilot 5s always seem to result with crossbars or something cause lights on leds that aren't supposed to be lit. It's really annoying!

 

Other than that not alot has been going on in my modelling world that's not related to Hattons Sheds.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its probably fair to say I’ve had one of my more eventful weeks following a Mountain Bike mishap where my front forks simply fell apart on a small descent in the surrey hills. Having not broken anything before I’ve had a good go at making up for it and so am in a period of rest doing nothing much. A perfect excuse to do a few weeks of armchair modelling and reviewing a few in progress projects!

(Even my wife has shown some keenness in promoting the gentler hobby that is railway modelling!!)

 

I’ve had a basic weathering splurge which is where I try to do the overall weathering with an airbrush and 67 wasn’t going to escape!

 

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The front warning panel didn’t quite look right when sat next to one of Brian’s lovely etched nameplates so I had a go at straightening it.

 

 

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First up was priming it white using Halfords white primer decanted into my airbrush. I’ve bought some mega cheap metal shot measures from China which I use for mixing paint so just spray the rattle can into them away from the airbrush then decant. It gave a nice finish so let that dry for 20 mins or so and then attempted to paint match. The mix up is Railmatch warning panel yellow and humbrol yellow, which seemed closed but I have cheated a little by feathering in and doing a very gentle thin waft over the front. When dried for an hour or so a small brush with thinners revive the decals. Hopefully it looks ok.

 

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So I think the body is now ready for a coat of satin varnish and I’m looking forward to detail weathering mostly over the chassis. I'm just slopping on some grey for the interior which has only had one coat so will hopefully look a bit better next time around.

 

Anyhow a big shout out to all those that helped me over the last week from fellow cyclists, ambulance crew and all at A&E and Guildford Hospital – it’s been a real humbling experience and a reminder of the hard and great work they do.

 

cheers all!

 

 

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1 hour ago, dj_crisp said:

 

 

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Aaaah brilliant! I've been waiting to see how this looked with the new wheels fitted.  They give it just the right 'stance', that's quite distinctive on the real locos,

Given the rest of of the Hornby 67 is great,  the  weird steamroller wheels they chose to fit  always stood out like a sore thumb, and it always bugged me that the brake discs weren't really done properly when they're so visible on the real things. 

That 'Skip' will look lovely with the Bristol - Penzance TPO behind it :) !

Jon 

 

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SPAG (spelling punctuation and grammer)
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