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Alternative to DIN plugs?


Metrocab

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I am the worlds worst at soldering and need a way to plug in my hand-held controller. I've tried a DIN plug but know when to give up with the soldering. Is there a non-solder alternative with at least 4 terminals (2 18v in, 2 12v out) that even someone of my talents could install and use similar to the conventional plugs? Something installed on the baseboard sideframe would be ideal. Until I can crack this, my wiring is in a state of flux!

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Chunky / large four way connectors with screw terminals, where the plug locks into the socket, try Speakon connectors. eBay is perhaps the cheapest?

I got these from this supplier in China. Waited about two weeks for delivery.

 

Plugs....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381081901715?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Sockets...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381081924731?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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Don't use din plugs, use 4 way XLR plugs. These are more expensive than dins, but are designed to last. Yes they are solder, but they use big buckets that you will be able to solder to. They latch positively and have a metal shell (one peice, not two halves) that just reeks quality.

 

Don't waste your money on anything else.

 

Here's the RS page for them, but they are available elsewhere

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=xlr+connector&sra=oss&r=t

 

Lots of configurations and ways available too.

 

They are used in disco lighting and sound, so are well regarded and tough.

 

Andy G

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To the OP - if you find soldering difficult, what soldering iron are you using? I used to find some soldering difficult using a generic 25w type soldering iron, since the temperature was too erratic - to cold and it would't work and then too hot and the tip would oxidise and make using the thing almost impossible. I then shelled out for a temperature controlled soldering iron from Maplins and it makes the job just so much easier.

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Dr Lodge - I have no excuses - I'm just a rubbish solderer. I can't seem to remain steady enough for long enough. Then I can't decide if I'm better with spectacles on or off.

 

Andy - Thanks for the link. I will have a closer look at these.

 

Those suggested by Brian seem to score on the basis that they are available with screw terminals and will take frequent connection/disconnection. Thanks to all for your help.

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Don't be put off with the XLRs having soldered connections. They are easy. Heat the 'bucket' with the iron until you can fill the bucket with solder. Tine the end of the wire and then heat the bucket again and push the wire in. Remove the iron and you are done. Use a good clean bit and you should have no trouble.

 

The XLRs will take years of (ab)use and will probably out last any other connector listed above. The latch is very positive and the panel mounting sockets are just as solid as the plugs.

 

Andy G

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I'm with Metrocab on this one .....

 

Why oh why do so many people flatly refuse to accept that there are those of us who just find soldering confidently next to impossible? It does our morale no good whatsoever to be told over and over again that it's sooooo easy ......

 

Nor does it help to find Brewsters advert for "The Art of Soldering" flashing up on the ad banner while typing my rant ......

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Metrocab and Chimer you do yourselves an injustice by claiming to to be rubbish solderers. There is usually a good reason why it does not work for you and it is a process of elimination to discover the problem. A clue to your problem Metrocab is your complaint you cannot hold your iron in place long enough to complete soldering. This suggests to me that you may have either an underpowered iron or yours has a badly oxidised tip, small soldered connections should take about 3secs. to complete. Dealing with the latter problem first if your tip is blackened, solder takes a long time to melt and then tends to run off the tip in blobs when it does, this is a badly oxidised tip. The tip should have a thin coating of solder known as tinning and when wiped on your damp sponge should appear silvery, if it does not look like this then you you have not a hope in hell of successful soldering. If this is the problem then the tip needs to be cleaned and re-tinned, care needs to be taken not to remove any coatings on the tip in the process. Cleaning a tip has been covered here before.

 

If you have a correctly tinned tip and still find soldering takes a long time then it is probably underpowered and you need to invest in an iron that is man enough for the job. A good maxim is that you can too little power but not too much.

 

Richard

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Richard - you could be right. Trouble is, I don't want to inflict abuse on a (new) perfectly good iron. I will look at soldering irons next time I'm in a shop wot sells them and note all advice. Thanks.

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Tip cleaning is not a black art. I use a Weller 25 Watt iron with the supplied tip. When the iron is hot, melt a tiny amount of solder onto the tip. If parts don't tin (when the iron is properly hot, about 5 mins from turning on) or you pick up bits of black in the solder on the tip, wipe the tip on a damp sponge (or damp paper) and re-tin. if it is still the same get a file out. Gently file the tip to remove the deposit,and then re tin the tip. repeat if nessacary. Don't worry about the coating, the tips are cheap and still last a long time (I've been abusing my tip like this for years!). Wipe excess off. (this might also be your problem, never carry solder to the work on the iron!)

 

Then heat the bucket (on the side) until the solder will melt when you put the end in the bucket (not on the iron). Now with the tinned end of wire, put that into the moulten solder, hod it there and remove the iron, and let cool for 10 secs, and then gentlely pull to make sure it has taken. Don't cool by blowing on it, as this can chill the joint and weaken it.

 

Job should be done.

 

I had the same problems as you until I learnt the above, and now I tend not to have any problems, even with etched kits (on which I use standard electronics leaded solder)

 

Andy G

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