gwrman Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Can anyone help me in the rough shape and positioning of the wire loop or bar used for coupling on locos using tension lock couplings on the wagons and the gauge of wire to use. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 You might get some info here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIhqZPA74Ys Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold young37215 Posted August 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2015 Hi Nigel Video is helpful. To add to the video I use 0.8mm brass rodding and an 0.8 mm drill which has proved very effective. The video is very precise in stating the length of rodding to use; personally I find that a 40mm strip of wire bent twice by eye at one third intervals creates a hoop which can be fitted to the buffer beam. On my Bachmann 37's I differ to the video and use the factory drilled air brake pipe hole on one side and drill a second hole at the same level to the left hand side of the buffer beam. The critical point that you need to ensure to achieve an effective replacement is the height of the bar over which wagon and coach tension locks will have to fall to create a coupling. You will probably find that the 'legs' as they are described in the video need to be bent downwards to get the right height. Trial and error is required to work this out for yourself so don't glue until you have tested extensively. Fortunately the 0.8 mm rod in a 0.8 hole is a tight fit which allows the coupling to function for test purposes. See the attached photos for examples of my 37's. My couplings require gluing ( I use expoxy resin, not super glue) and painting which will done once final testing completed. It is not as difficult as you might this although I found it daunting finding the confidence to drill the first hole in my prized 37's! Good luck Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 One enhancement you might consider is to chemically blacken the brass wire before bending and fitting, which will make it far less visible and gives a finish that is much more durable than painting afterwards. I've found that the Birchwood Casey products work well, but before applying the fluid with a cotton bud you should draw the wire a few times between some fine emery or wet and dry held in your fingers. This will clean the wire - don't touch it afterwards - and allow the fluid to be at its most effective. The final result isn't actually a black wire, but one with a dark gray/ brown patina that the eye finds far less obvious set against the underparts of a loco. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted August 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2015 For us one of the main reasons for going down this road is that we want to add superdetailing - vac, steam head, AB hoses - at both ends of the loco. Were you planning to add them? seems a shame not to, adds to the prototypical appearance no doubt Easiest locos to do are hydraulics with their deep buffer beam skirts and 1co-co1s with the loop on the bogie Kind regards Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold young37215 Posted August 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2015 The original post sought guidance on replacing tension locks which appears to have been well covered by responses and attached links. I totally agree with Phil's comment that buffer beam detailing is the natural conclusion to removing tension locks. The attached 2 pictures show 2 of my fleet in various stages of detailing. I am using brass rod because I not convinced at the strength of the manufacturers detail parts. Therefore I am trying out different methods using a combination of brass rod (0.8mm and 0.5mm ) and manufactured parts in an attempt to achieve the same effect in a robust manner. Phil, I like the notion of pre-colouring the brass; can you expand on the Birchwood Casey product to buy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrman Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Hi guys, thanks for the help, the video especially it made life a lot easier. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted August 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2015 The original post sought guidance on replacing tension locks which appears to have been well covered by responses and attached links. I totally agree with Phil's comment that buffer beam detailing is the natural conclusion to removing tension locks. The attached 2 pictures show 2 of my fleet in various stages of detailing. I am using brass rod because I not convinced at the strength of the manufacturers detail parts. Therefore I am trying out different methods using a combination of brass rod (0.8mm and 0.5mm ) and manufactured parts in an attempt to achieve the same effect in a robust manner. Phil, I like the notion of pre-colouring the brass; can you expand on the Birchwood Casey product to buy? Cheers Phil ( theres a lot of us!) - have you looked at guitar strings for vac pipes - the winding looks good. Also agree with your brass fittings although we have found the manufacturers offerings have got better over the years and are pretty robust - particularly as the wire coupling loop affords them some protection from knocks. Brass wire also good where manufacturer's offerings are incorrect eg Bacchy class 25 MU lead - just cut off fittings at end of supplied cable, drill them 0.5mm and refit the right way round with 0.45mm handrail wire. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Following on from post #4, I'm not a Phil ( "d'you mind if we call you Bruce" springs to mind for those old enough to remember!). Birchwood Casey stuff for blackening was available from Eileens Emporium and may still be. Also possibly Hobby Holidays, both of theses do lots of shows. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted August 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2015 Following on from post #4, I'm not a Phil ( "d'you mind if we call you Bruce" springs to mind for those old enough to remember!). Birchwood Casey stuff for blackening was available from Eileens Emporium and may still be. Also possibly Hobby Holidays, both of theses do lots of shows. John. G'day Bruce - meet new Bruce! That's useful gen - we paint them dirty black but it does rub off after a while, chemical blackening should be better and leave them smoother too Heres how we have done Baby deltic, 37s and 47s Turned around the MU cable on 5230 And a veritable horde of Peaks Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangor Lad Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 G'day Bruce - meet new Bruce!That's useful gen - we paint them dirty black but it does rub off after a while, chemical blackening should be better and leave them smoother tooHeres how we have done Baby deltic, 37s and 47sWeathered locos 2.jpgTurned around the MU cable on 52305230 MU cable.jpgAnd a veritable horde of PeaksBlue peaks 2.jpgCheersPhil Shouldn't that be a 'range' of Peaks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrman Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hi, I used to have a few 7mm locos and used brass Dingham couplings on those which I blackened with a permanent black marker, it worked brilliantly. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Further to the last post, it works well on S&W and Lincs also. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray M Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 G'day Bruce - meet new Bruce! That's useful gen - we paint them dirty black but it does rub off after a while, chemical blackening should be better and leave them smoother too Heres how we have done Baby deltic, 37s and 47s Weathered locos 2.jpg Turned around the MU cable on 5230 5230 MU cable.jpg And a veritable horde of Peaks Blue peaks 2.jpg Cheers Phil Phil, how do you go on with the metal chassis of the Dapol class 22 & the Heljan falcon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1 Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 If you aren't adding the full bufferbeam detail (it's your choice) you could just remove the hook from an ordinary tension lock... steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted August 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2015 Phil, how do you go on with the metal chassis of the Dapol class 22 & the Heljan falcon. Hi Ray A decent drill bit in the dremmel did the job! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrman Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Hi, thank again with all the help, with detailing in mind I've just bought some of this covered beading elastic for the pipe work, it has the right movement and look for it, also for £2.99 you get 25mtrs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Covered-Beading-Elastic-Cord-1mm-Thick-25m-Jewellery-Making-COLOUR-CHOICE/360689556697?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D32710%26meid%3Db40ff52621e04eca967b496be6fc1e61%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D201397053685%26clkid%3D8402883624688693026&_qi=RTM2052812 Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Hi, thank again with all the help, with detailing in mind I've just bought some of this covered beading elastic for the pipe work, it has the right movement and look for it, also for £2.99 you get 25mtrs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Covered-Beading-Elastic-Cord-1mm-Thick-25m-Jewellery-Making-COLOUR-CHOICE/360689556697?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D32710%26meid%3Db40ff52621e04eca967b496be6fc1e61%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D201397053685%26clkid%3D8402883624688693026&_qi=RTM2052812 Nigel This looks interesting. Can anyone offer photos of this stuff in use please? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
olivegreen Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Hi, thank again with all the help, with detailing in mind I've just bought some of this covered beading elastic for the pipe work, it has the right movement and look for it, also for £2.99 you get 25mtrs. Nigel Great idea - that falls into the 'why have I never thought of that before' category! Could work as low-level vac and steam pipes between permanently-coupled coaches (eg SR sets), push-pulls etc, if the diameter is about right. Idea filed in 'pending' for this winter's projects. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrman Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 Great idea - that falls into the 'why have I never thought of that before' category! Could work as low-level vac and steam pipes between permanently-coupled coaches (eg SR sets), push-pulls etc, if the diameter is about right. Idea filed in 'pending' for this winter's projects. Mike Hi, if you want to go one step further attach 1mm x 1mm magnets so you can uncouple the steam pipes. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-tiny-Neodymium-disc-rod-magnets-1mm-dia-x-1mm-N35-craft-fridge-diy-magic-/181657770008?hash=item2a4ba59818 Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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